vashonz
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Posts posted by vashonz
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I have a detached 30x40 shop, and want to run 220vac out there.
This is what I have right now:
200A main panel in house
Shop has its own 60A (double pole) breaker that runs to a feeder panel in the shop.
There is a spare 50A (double pole) breaker that ends in a 220vac outlet in the garage attached to the house.
What I want to do is replace the 50A breaker with a higher rated breaker (60A? 100A?), run new cable (4ga? 6ga? its only about 40ft to the shop) add another feeder panel in the shop, and install 2 220vac outlets. One for a welder/table saw (50A) and one for an air compressor (30A)
My questions are: What size breaker should I run to the new feeder panel? Can I get away with the 60A breaker feeding 50A and 30A cicuits? I understand that I would not be able to run both welder and compressor at the same time at max amp.
Do I need to have a breaker at both ends of the new cable, I.E. 60A breaker in main panel, and another 60A breaker in the feeder panel, both isolating just the new cable.
main panel in house. current feeder panel in shop -
I have a Pallnet 11mm oring fuel rail, never used. I bought it, then got 14mm injectors and bought the 14mm version.
Ribbed, minor scuff marks from bouncing around the garage, can't find the mounting kit (its pieces of aluminum) is drilled for pressure guage. You interested?
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I've got coilovers
In about 2-3 weeks I'm moving into my new house, will be parting out the Z, have already sectioned struts with illuminas and coilovers. Also have front and rear disc brakes, turbo motor ect. I havn't put up an add yet because I'm not ready to take the car apart (2 weeks)
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Oops, I thought they were.
Here's a pretty sweet looking 610, KA24 nicely sorted (NOT MINE, I saw the add on NASIOC)
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Over here it's called a Datsun B210. They're around, they're cheap.
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Pure Rustoleum White
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Doug at UP Garage (AKA Fairlady motors) was working one one today, this was the first time I've heard of VIPEC, but they made it sound pretty awesome.
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300 ft lbs @2800rpm on a mustang dyno
Stock 240z stub axles
Modified 280zxt CV's and halfshafts (the splines are the same as 240z)
R200 3.54 with Clutch LSD
245/45/16 Tires
Right now the weak point is the series 1 transmission, so I'm taking it easy on launches.
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Cats are not all bad, it really helps with the smell.
I have one on my '71 and we don't even have emissions stuff where I live.
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Toyota Starlet
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So I'm in Okinawa for a couple days. I've got to work tomorrow, on Sunday I'm planning on going to the Aquarium (It's not set in stone, suggest somthing else) , and monday is totally open.
Does anyone know of anything neat to see?
Things I'm interested in:
-UP Garage type things, (used performance parts)
-240z parts places
-Junkyard if they can help me arrange shipping and stuff within the same day.
-Katana store, I decided I want to learn Kendo, and figured that this is the place to look into that kind of stuff
-Place to buy random gifts for my wife.
I'm staying at White Beach, so I'm not sure whats close vs. far
And I can't drive, so its probably going to be the bus to Kadena then however I can to kokusai street (the shopping street)
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I've made some ugly welds.
But then I've also made some really pretty welds (exotic materials, interpass <300F), and tig welding underneath a table, using mirrors, and with only 6" on each side of the pipe.
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I have AZC 12.2" front brakes and 16x8" SSR Watanabe RS-8 wheels. These are the 2 piece ones.
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With a +10 or +20 offset wheel you do not need spacers.
Stock 280zxt wheel was 15x6+10, fit just fine with stock suspension, looked good.
Right now I'm running 16x8+30 front and 16x8.5 +20 rear using AZC front brakes and hubs, with stock rear setup. Coilovers all around.
Another 10 or 20 mm up front (ie 16x8 +10 or +20) up front would leave plenty of room and fill out the fender nicely. The rears are pretty perfect.
Keep in mind that by using the AZC front hubs it moved the mating surface out a little, IE I was able to use a higher offset wheel.
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I don't know much about V8 stuff, so please explain to me.
Is it the BBC displacement in the LS form factor?
Or the price?
then are you able to use LS1-7 heads and accessories?
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Nice job. Probably my favorite overall bike was my VFR750 (woo gear driven cams). It was easy to ride, comfortable, and more than quick enough.
Since then I've owned a 2005 R1 - entirely way to fast for 99% of the riding I do.
I've also riden a friends 2006 Shadow Spirit (He had never ridden before, so I took it home from the dealership for him) which was nice, but a little under powered.
Last weekend I rented a 2007 HD Sportster 1200 Custom, which was OK, but was a little small (especially with a passenger) and it didn't get up and go like I wanted it to.
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Unfortunately the hood is not BetaMotorsports. It was there when I bought the car, its a fiberglass shell on the stock steel frame.
I did paint it using the rustoleum/roller method. Man does that take a long time, a couple times I had semi-panic attacks of "what the hell am I doing" but it looks pretty decent.
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I'm pretty sure that Lexus makes their own guages. OEM and all that jazz.
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Looks like it got one of those custom SWB mods on the front driver side.
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NKG BP7ES
Gap is either .040" or .045"
Boost is ~15psi
Not a stock ignition system, I have SDS with the coilpacks.
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I never messed with the stock ECU too much, But on SDS you set what MAP range and RPM range to run in closed loop. They recommend that closed loop only be used at low map values and ~1500-3500 rpm (basically crusing). If you try to run closed loop under boost or at higher RPMs it can cause bad stuff (14.7 AFR is generally too lean).
So basically I agree with brad and mario. It sounds normal to me.
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I'm running 245-45-16 on a 16x8.5" wheel, and it looks really good, much narrower and it would probably "bulge" out too much. And its not "stretched" at all.
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This is the closest I could find. http://www.scca.com/Club/Index.asp?IdS=0FC065-823FBE0&x=030|057&~=
"9.3.26. FUEL CELL SPECIFICATIONS
All cars must be equipped with a safety fuel cell complying with these
specifications, except for Showroom Stock, Touring, Spec Miata, and
Improved Touring. All safety fuel cells shall be constructed and certified in
accordance with the FIA FT-3 or higher (FT-3.5, FT-5, etc.) specifications.
All safety fuel cells shall consist of a foam-filled fuel bladder enclosed in
a metal container at minimum. "
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Finally got the coilovers, brakes, LSD and new wheels installed.
And a short youtube video
Transmissions
in Drivetrain
Posted
Like JSM said, theres a little 1/8th inch spacer between the end of the crankshaft and the flexplate, if you forget to remove this and put a flywheel on the flywheel will be too far away from the starter pinion to engage.
Either that or the starter is not working, but if it worked before there is no reason why it should not work now.