vashonz
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Posts posted by vashonz
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I'm 19 and have just finished a turbo swap into my '71. I have been working at a paid internship, which really helped to give me enough money to continue to make progress on my project. I have done almost everything myself (my dad does help out a little. eg, lifting trans over front cross member, holding engine while I push the trans on).
What has really helped financially is just doing 1 thing at a time, and not going totally overboard with everything, I went with tokico springs and illuminas rather than a full coilover setup. For the engine swap I currently have an L28et installed and running.
I had upgrades planned, but I need to start helping pay for stuff at home (the economy sucks, and work has been slow for my dad), so right now its just gonna stay the same. Until I get enough extra money I'll just drive it as it is, even though it isn't the fastest or most upgraded Z out there, I can still drive it everyday.
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What are a pirate favorite body parts?
ARRRRMMS and BOOOTY
A couple friends of mine came up with a ton of these one night
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A friend of mine has one, its a pretty nice little car, much smaller than my 240z, but I still fit (passenger seat, I havn't driven it) and I'm 6'4". It handles pretty good, but the engine is kinda anemic.
Another friend of mine is going to look at another one later this week (maybe today), if he gets it it should make for some intersting crusing: 2 opel gt's and one yellow 240zt.
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I used the stock fuel lines, and the car runs fine. I did not use the damper, but the local z mechanic said that the way I have it set up is fine. The only fuel related problem I've had was a clogged return line (the fuel pressure was high, and the FPR did not have any effect on fuel pressure) I fixed this by running a new line along the same path as the stock one.
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This is the tag that was on my extra ecu.
http://viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/wireecu/DSCN0077.JPG
It was from an '81 turbo, it works (I checked it).
The later distributor has a wire coming out of it and is much larger than the '81 unit. The '81 is essentially a shaft connected to the rotor arm, no timing unit, no electronics.
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You might also check out this site http://www.rinkya.com/. I don't have any experience with them, but it looks interesting.
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The amf is right below the air filter, used a 180° mandrel bend to connect it together. This is what the local Z mechanic recomended.
Long term i'd like to relocate it out front once i get an intercooler.
Short term ill probably just make a heat shield (gonna hafta make a run to boeing surplus. Its a great place, cheap aluminum, honeycomb(not the cereal), high density foam, tools ect. pretty much anything boeing ever used.)
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I'm trying to figure out what these 3 vacume lines connect to.
http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/question.jpg
Any help would be appreciated.
ps, I already did a search and didnt find any revelant results
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I am in the final stages of getting this on the road (thanks to doug at fairlady motors for doing the wiring) and thought I'd share a couple quick photos.
(keep in mind that the car still needs a good wash)
Rear:
http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0058.JPG
Front (in the process of aligning the hood):
http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0060.JPG
Side:
http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0066.JPG
Engine 1:
http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0062.JPG
Engine 2:
http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0063.JPG
Engine 3:
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I simply took the stock fittings with me to the oil filter place (Williams Oil Filter Service, in tacoma wa). I told them where the lines were going to be run and how long to make them, they reused the stock fittings (the don' cary metric ones) and used new tubing.
Total cost to me was $40, that was for steel braided line with a cloth like covering (think OEM 240 tubes), it looks great(very stock).
The only thing to be careful of is of how long the lines are made, and how the fittings are positioned, the new lines don't twist at all.
I can provide photos once I get back (woo, a weekend at laguna seca, then on to skip barber)
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Here is the link for anyone interested:
http://viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/81ecuharness.jpeg.jpg
search terms: turbo swap ecu diagram 81 280zx 240z wiring
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If you can email it to me, I can host it for everyone. Any file format is fine, size is not a problem, once I get it i can throw up a link.
Thanks, Chris Charron
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If you can email it to me, I can host it for everyone. Any file format is fine, size is not a problem, once I get it i can throw up a link.
Thanks, Chris Charron
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I'm trying to finish the swap into my 240z this weekend and am looking for a wiring diagram for the engine.
I already did a search, found out that someone emailed it to someone else. It would be much appreciated if someone could send a copy my way.
Already checked out the local library, they had at least 2 copies of the original factory service manual for my 240z (along with the 30 page supplement), but couldnt find anything for the 280zx.
Thanks,
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Solidworks is pretty good, I like SolidEdge best. I've only played around with I.D.E.A.S. a little, but it worked pretty well. The big problem with most of those is the price (a couple grand per seat is considered cheap).
If you're on a budget you might check out Alias Wavefront's Studio (cad accurate design program), or Maya (more artistic focus). Both are very powerful. Studio was used for the ferrari 360 modena, Maya for just about every movie since toy story. Best of all is that they can be had for free (as long as you don't try to sell anything designed in it, and don't mind working with a watermark on the screen).
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Monterey Historics are awesome (right around 19-20th of august). Last year I camped on turn 6, could see the track from the picnic table.
Theres also a really impressive aquarium there, considered to be one of the better ones in the world.
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I've been working with uhmw at work recently. Its a pretty neat material, Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic, very slippery, abrasion resistant, easily machinable (I was using a table saw to cut it), does not melt easily (makes molding it very difficult).
My thoughts we to use it for TB spacers rather than the Lexan ones that ive seen, I think it would be more heat resistant (is that an issue?) (we melt lexan with a blow dryer to make tool guards). If anyone has a blueprint for a spacer, send it over, we have a cnc bed mill I can use to make one.
I would like to hear other suggestions for what it could be used for.
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a buddy of mine is an electrical engineer at Kettering University and decided to build a megasquirt. I sent this post to him and this is what he said
"I already built them, my stimulator board is using jury ridged speaker Pots wihich are at radioshack, battery packs are at radioshack (just not on digi-key) and 2N2222A trans where replaced by PN2222A which is just a different shape"
"plus I have a bunch of old 2N2222A trans from school"
"My stim board is having problems with the LEDs and that's it"
If anyone wants to talk to him further about this, I can get his AIM screen name to you, just PM me.
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C6 corvette top model is supposed to have 500 hp, when i heard about it GM was already at ~450 and going for more, that was in december. I heard that at a talk on the history of the corvette, given by Joe Speilman (i think). Bob Lutz (gm product czar) said the same thing a few weeks later when he gave his talk.
Oh, and if you're looking at a GTO, wait a year, theyre gonna come out with a model that has 405hp. (This from Lutz also).
And on the topic of direct acting valves, gm has a system that works. The only problem is that it takes more power than the engine produces (or uses more power than the difference makes). That i learned because I was talking about engine technology with a friend who has been working at GM research.
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New '71 240z, the previous owner decided to install carbs from a '73 (but it does have an e31), since I have an extra set from one of my '72's I swap those (along with header and 2.5 in exhaust) onto the '71, keeping the intake from the '73.
Now when I go to start the car it starts great, but immediately idles at 3000rpm. Runs great at 3k, revs instantly to 5000 or 6000.
But, i dont want it to idle at 3k
the only way to get it lower is to force the throttle linkage closed (much harder than what the springs do), or put my hand over the front carb.
any thoughts? I really wanna drive the car with the better carbs on it.
p.s. I did read the topic below http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17847 but his car starts a 1000rpm then goes up to 1400rpm. Could I have a more extreme version of his problem?
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You might check out Art Morrison Enterprises down in fife.
Really odd; Lack of power under boost; details inside . . .
in Turbo / Supercharger
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I recently (last 2 days) had the same problem. Was running like crap, wouldnt rev past 4000, asked local z guy about it, he said either injector problem, bad connection on ecu, or a bad dist/cas.
On the way home it got to the point where it wouldn't go past ~2500, boost was very erratic.
Cleaned all the connectors(CRC brakecleen), blew them out with air, now the car doesnt run at all. All Spark Plugs are white, way too clean. No spark to cylinders, spark to cap only after I go from start to run position. Replace distributor (I had an extra one, lucky me), use the same cap, same wires: runs great now, small problem starting off, but i think thats due to high fuel pressure.
Tomorrow after work I'll check the plugs again(I drove it alot, hard, today) if its running better ill be sure to see.
Only problems are that as soon as I started the car, the tach died. And today the fan clutch froze up(makes things loud). Yay for parts cars.