vashonz
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Posts posted by vashonz
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Stock Turbo puts the AFM in before the turbo, it's designed to measure air flow at atmospheric pressure, not above.
If you do that you -should- be able to use the stock J pipe.
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What about using the subtle Z fender, then adding ZG flares? Has anyone tried this? I think it should work.
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All my autometer guages came with sending units, I just installed those.
Why do you need to bench test them? are you just making sure the guage works? or are you trying to calibrate it? is there a way to check the cal? (I do some guage cal at work)
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If you want inexpensive ones get some from a VW rabbit (don't know years) they are made of rubber, and have a couple obvious points to cut to make them whatever length you want.
I ran these for a few years before upgrading to poly.
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But was it african or european?
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72lb/hr is ~750cc/min. SDS only does batch fire, so I'm guessing every revolution.
Fuel pressure starts at ~38PSI at idle and goes up from there. I'm using a 1:1 Aeromotive FPR.
I don't know what the minimum on time is. I'll try to get out there and look at the duty cycle at idle.
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SDS can do it, megasquirt can do it, I'm guessing that TEC can too.
SDS does it by using 2 set of injectors that are the same size. One set is used up to a certain pulse width, after that point it starts firing the second set but cuts the pulse width in half. This give it a smooth transition.
I'm running 72lb/hr MSD injectors and it idles fine, these should flow enough fuel for 700hp, although I doubt I'll get close to that.
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I've got a pair of bz3016 I'll let go for cheap.
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All the different Hydraulic standards always confuse me.
I would check out what BMW does. Or even get the fittings from a JY(cutting -3 tubing is easy) Then just re-flairing the hardline with the new fittings.
Another solution would be to go to a reputabe hydraulics shop. I know a good one around here, but I don't know about Maryland. You might try checking on the thomas register.
If you're not set on using a hard line it might be easier to make a braided line.
It would probably be the part where he mentioned it was on his "clutch" line...
Mike
Eh, I was thinking clutch but typing brake.
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Any recomendations on which fluid to run?
I've heard GL-5 is can be bad for diffs that have brass parts inside them.
I'm also confused on the different additives people use, I know viscous diffs need a certain one, but certain additives cause a clutch type diff to slip.
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Why do you need a bleed valve in your brake line?
Most people use the bleed vavles on the master cylinder and on the slave cylinder. Or is there somthing I'm missing or is your application not stock?
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Just the handle-looks (most likely wrong for the car)
The entire assembly- give your passenger more room (240sx parking brake is on the driver side), looks different(tie dye is different too)
Unless I'm missing somthing, I see no reason to do it.
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Set it on fire. Use thermite if you got it. It will not have a miss on the first or second cyl anymore.
Seriously, get a haynes/chilton manual, use their trouble shooting guide.
My guess is plug wires.
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The other thing is that the turn signals are lower than on most z cars, this give it a "droopy" look.
Without the bumper to split the opening it exagerates how tall it looks.
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obstruction/crimp between fuel pressure gage and fuel injector is my guess.
less flow through injector ->lean
more backpressure -> *indicated* fuel pressure goes up
Unless the gage is mounted on the fuel rail. Then my guess is clogged injector.
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I already stripped the inside out of this (located above the diff on the passenger side), but I thought that was the 10# back pressure valve. But I thought wrong.
Then:
Before I forget, Have you removed the brake bias bar (pressure regulating valve) in the rear brake system in your Z yet. It is the one just before the T-bar (3-way tube connector) above the rear axles. If you haven't then you need to. What this does is keep some pressure on the rear brakes after you release the brake pedal. It helps to keep from locking up the rear brakes before the fronts. But it is designed for the drum brakes and not for disc brakes. You can add a brake bias valve (you can adjust by yourself) in the system, if you like (most people do). I have the 300ZX brakes upfront and 280ZX brakes in the back. I took out the valve out of the system and bent the line over and reconnected it. I do not have a self adjuster in it at this time. I do have good brakes that pull down even on a hard brake. I like it this way and race it this way. You can do it both ways, it is up to you and your taste. Good Luck, Rich.
Is he describing the same piece? or is there somthing else down there. The only other thing I saw was the distribution block (inlet - R outlet - L outlet)
There is only one on a US version 240. There is a plug in the side of it. You unscrew it and you'll see that it has a long needle with a spring on it. Cut that part off, and screw it back in. That's it.This is what I was looking for, reassurance that I had found all the valves.
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Heres a quick picture of what I was thinking.
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You should not have to cut anything, you may have to remove the material covering the strut towers to get at the top nut.
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I just installed 12" wilwoods and 240sx disks in my 240, I cleared out the residual pressure valve in the back. And am now getting ready to install an inline adjustable proportioning valve.
My question is if I clear out (remove piston and spring) from the stock proportioning valve is this "REALLY BAD"?
The master cylinder has 2 lines running to the proportioning valve, and it would seem that the moveable piston inside the valve keeps the front and rear parts of the brake system seprate. If I remove the pison it will effectively make it so from the master cylinder into one BIG cylinder.
If that happens I why does it matter which resovioir on the master cylinder goes to the front and to the rear?
Should I just install a "T"(in place of the stock proportioning valve) and separate the front and rear systems completely?
Sorry if this is confusing, I have trouble putting things into words. I'll draw a picture later when I have more time.
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I paid a local shop $75 to install the lsd carrier into my R200. I was a little nervous doing it myself and I trust this shop.
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I'll probably be getting rid of my rear sway bar that I bought from MSA (not sure what brand, but it goes underneath the driveshaft instead of behind the diff), I'm getting rid of it because it interferes with my CVs.
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Good luck finding one around here without rust. I'm on my 3rd 240z from washington, and there is ALWAYS rust you don't see initially.
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That is really clean.
The underside of your car is cleaner than the outside of mine.
Before I forget, Have you removed the brake bias bar (pressure regulating valve) in the rear brake system in your Z yet. It is the one just before the T-bar (3-way tube connector) above the rear axles. If you haven't then you need to. What this does is keep some pressure on the rear brakes after you release the brake pedal. It helps to keep from locking up the rear brakes before the fronts. But it is designed for the drum brakes and not for disc brakes. You can add a brake bias valve (you can adjust by yourself) in the system, if you like (most people do). I have the 300ZX brakes upfront and 280ZX brakes in the back. I took out the valve out of the system and bent the line over and reconnected it. I do not have a self adjuster in it at this time. I do have good brakes that pull down even on a hard brake. I like it this way and race it this way. You can do it both ways, it is up to you and your taste. Good Luck, Rich.
painting a car with a roller...
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
I just got mine outside for the first time, It looks really good.
Still needs some wetsanding and polishing, but is way better than before.