vashonz
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Posts posted by vashonz
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That looks like it will work fine.
If you get another one that you want to be quiet I recommend the HKS racing BOV, it is really quiet, just barely noticeable with no chirp at all.
If you want I can get a video up.
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r200
in Drivetrain
A pic of the diff is all most people need.
One of the sites out there had comparison pics. If you're really lost I have an R180 and R200(now with LSD!) sitting outside.
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A couple weeks ago UPS left a summit box by our gate, about 350' from my house, at least it was about 40' off the road and not visible.
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Some of the hot rolled steel has mill scale on it, its really really hard stuff.
When I worked at a tool and die shop some of the die plates had this on them, I think a solution was to use this special really really big mill (multiple rotating heads cutting over a rotating work surface).
I don't remember what we used to get it off the smaller stuff, probably just painted over it, we were concerned with functionality, not looks (unlike a chopper)
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The 3.9 instead of the 3.54 makes your gears into a closer ratio transmission. More shifting, but keeps it in the power band easier.
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Miller Elite
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I got one from Meguiars, but that was part of a kit at laguna seca.
It is made by black and decker, so whoever sells B&D tools probably either has them or can order them.
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That would be sweet.
I've played with the 240z and 280z frame drawings in solidworks a little bit, but never produced anything worthwhile.
I would pay atleast $5 for this.
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I've got at least 3 heatshields from cars with L24 and SU carbs. 1 has an aftermarket header.
You can have the heatshield if you want it. If you want the header (6-1, with a small rust hole on #1) for somthing to start with, you can have it for really cheap.
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I'm guessing because it was originally a 200sx (but with 1.8liter or 3 liter), and now it has a SBF (5.0 liter)
Looks like a cool project, keep us posted.
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the only thing the 5 blade relays have is an 87a that is optional to use.
what it does is when the 86-85 circuit is completed the relay switches from 87a to 87.
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pallnet makes some really nice ones. You also might try looking in the classifieds.
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My experience is that motrin is good stuff. It does a good job at getting rid of inflamation and swelling.
If you can get it (perscription) Mobic is even better, does the same thing as motrin, except that its one stronger, and did not make me loopy. But then neither did Vicoden (I took 2 and still was able to function fine, I drove around all afternoon before anyone told me I shouln't)
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SDS is good. Right now I'm running MSD 72lb/hr injectors (about 750cc/min) with an older EM3. These are really big for an inline 6 but mine still starts and idles just fine.
The other night I started it in 35 degree weather and it cranked for a couple seconds, then started and idled fine, I didn't have to touch the throttle to keep it from dying. I do not have the cold start or the AC valve.
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Running one pass without adding filler can help to clean up the cast aluminum, then wire brush it, and do a pass with filler.
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I get 12 psi by 2600 rpm, according to the guy who did my tuning that is really fast.
So, more spark retard and more fuel? I assume that this is really bad for my turbo and exhaust?
SDS mentioned in the manual that alot of spark retard and extra fuel at the lowest map value would give it basic anti-lag. But would destroy turbos.
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Jon, You might check out art morrison next time you head down to Tacoma (they're in Fife actually). I know they have the equipment to make cages, but I don't know if they still do semi custom work.
I think I called them a couple years ago to see about a roll bar for my 240z, if I remember correctly, they had plans on file for most cars.
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I was really really close to buying a EP 240z that had dual supertrapps, although I never heard it run.
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I finally got all 4 of my wheels. (FedEx said it was undeliverable due to inclemental weather)
I've already stripped and painted the rear centers. Am going to do the same for the fronts. Gunmetal should look good with a white car and black accents.
The fronts are 16x8 and the rears are 16x8.5. Weight is ~14lbs front and a little more back. The fronts have ~6" of back spacing, but it looks like they will fit on the AZC 5 lug front hubs with coilovers. On the rear I''ll probably have to run a spacer, the backspacing is 5.5"
I could have paid more for proper offset, but these were pretty cheap. And if I get really desperate I'll just order new shells from kodak racing.
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Looks like fun!
Today I did a double take when I saw the harbor had chunks and a skin of ice in it. This is Washington, it's not supposed to do that.
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I know Dave sells the 5 lug front and rears separately even though its not listed on his website. I know because I got just the 5 lug wilwood fronts from him. They're pretty.
Dave quoted me $1200 for the fronts and $1000 for the rear for the 5 lug Wilwoods.
I'm running 240sx disks in the back because they're cheap and still pretty big, plus I get to keep the parking brake.
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I got a set for a V8 and a bunch of crimp on wire ends. They're all exactly the right length.
If you go with MSD 8.8 you will need their special tool to crimp them correctly.
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I've got a couple extra E88 head and an E31 head sitting around. I can get some phoots of one of the E88s if you want, The E31 is still on the engine.
This reminds me to break down those engines and pull the 9mm rods. (any other parts I should pull?)
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It was Sport Compact Car, you can still find the article online. http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0207scc_boost_control/
I have been having a little trouble getting it to be consistent with what boost comes to. I'm not sure if its the solenoid or the controller. It is self learning for gain. I chose this one because I can program boost levels based on RPM, so using the stock turbo, shoot for 17-18 psi at 4000rpm and 10-12 psi at 6500rpm.
If I keep having trouble with this one, I'll probably get one of the new HKS EVC controllers.
R33 rb26dett clip pricing...
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
I was quoted $4500 for an R33 with RWD transmission and the right (rear sump) oil pan.
$3800 sounds like a good deal to me.