vashonz
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Posts posted by vashonz
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Thats a good deal. If I had known about that I would have gone with them rather than ebay (like I suggested to you). Although I did not have any problem welding the ebay stuff.
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I've got a pair of 240z rear struts (Illuminas) sitting off the car in the housing, and one front 240z Illumina sitting around waiting to be installed in the shortened rear housing. I'll measure them tomorrow.
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I did this last week.
Only install the inner side of the poly bushing (the outer side and metal sleeve make it so that theres ~just~ not enough room. I also used lots and lots of grease. And pushed and forced and got angry at it for a long time.
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If they came off a 510 the bolt pattern is 4x100, unless he used an adapter.
240sx, 240z, 510 all use the same (4x114.3) bolt pattern.
Rotas are generally considered to be cheap, heavy, weak, and unreliable. To the point where there are t-shirts saying "Friends don't let friends roll on Rotas"
I doubt you will get much interest from anyone with a 240sx when you try to sell them.
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I will be painting my Z using this method. I'm going with white, and possibly a black hood.
I have mineral spirits and penethol to thin it with.
Yesterday I found "D.O.I. Wet Look Acrylic Enamel Hardener
An acrylic enamel hardener that gives complete paint jobs a high gloss and retains their Distinctiveness Of Image finish. It improves the coating's durability and makes it resistant to scratches, stone chips, cleaners and gasoline spills."
It suggests mixing 1 quart of paint to 1 pint reducer to 1/4 pint hardener.
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The front diff should be completely separate from the engine oil. 90wt gear oil vs 10w30 or 20w50 engine oil.
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I personally think most wheels made today don't fit the style of early Z cars.
One wheel I seriously considered was the 5zigen fcn01, clifton is running those, they look nice on his car, but is not the style I am looking for.
They are relatively cheap, available in 17x9 +20, and 17x8 +35 or so
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you could do some basic upgrades...intake, header, exhaust and tb.
This may not make the car ALOT faster (especially without tuning), but it will make it FEEL faster. More intake noise, more exhaust noise, stepping on the gas more to hear the noise.
It made a big difference when I put air filter and slip-on on my VFR, With my Z I went directly to L28 and turbo.
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What about cutting and rewelding the oil pan in order to move the front axel pass through forward further? You could move the motor to wherever you wanted that way.
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JohnC at betamotorsports. But again its pricy. If you don't have the time/tools/skills its probably worth it.
If you price it out is a decent deal
Shocks $460 (illuminas)
coilover kit $430
camber plates $340
welder $500 for an ok one or $60 for someone to do it for you.
paint, tools to strip, sand, grind, clean
Bearings, Ball joints, ect. All the small stuff adds up
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I've gotten all 6 my Illuminas from http://www.shox.com
1st time ordered the full 240z set, 2nd time ordered 2 BZ3099. Its not on their website, but if you call they will put it together. They were here in ~2-3 days with standard shipping.
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Just got it
Williams Oil Filter Services
1247 Puyallup Ave
Tacoma, WA 98421
(253) 627-8163
Before I got the name I found it on google earth.
coordinants are : 47°14'33.28"N 122°24'52.93"W
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Theres this hydraulics and diesel supply place on the tide flats in Tacoma, between I5 and 509, they have all kinds of hydraulic stuff. They built the lines I am using for the stock 280zxt oil cooler in my 240z. I can't remember the name of it right now.
If you need it I have a pretty decent flare tool, it has the mandrel to do double flares.
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Most people just replace wiring harnesses with painless or similar. The only reason I can see to keep the original would be for a concourse restoration.
The issue with the old wiring harnesses is that the insulation gets brittle and cracks. Condensation get inside the wire and corrodes the wire causing higher resistance, poor performance.
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This is NOT my sale, I don't know him, ect. This just looks like a good deal. If I had a V8 I would get this, but I am happy with my L28.
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=133614
"ectromotive full TEC2 ecu for 8cyl
needed to make work
MAP, IAT, crank wheel and trigger"
the guy is asking $600
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To get more steering angle you will first need to solve the problem of the wheel running into the TC rod and frame rail (or sway bar)
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I bought a set of wheels from http://www.takumiproject.com and have been really happy, they kept me updated on exactly what was happening with the order, even when they found a -minor- problem with one of the wheels, they offered to fix for free or send them as is and knock $50 off the price, or to completely refund my money.
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Someone made a SMG thing for a 510 once. But it was their EE project, used electric solenoids and I think he programmed it himself. Not a kit at all.
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If it is a clip you should be able to start the engine.
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I have a round dynomax, it sounds nice. 3" in and out. got it from summit.
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I have a 24"x12"x3" core and it works nice. I had a big volvo IC before, I dont remember how big it was but it was probably 17 or 18" tall
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I'm going to guess that they are cast iron. I would just weld it on there and hit it with a hammer to make sure it held.
The only way it would be an issue would be if you were applying a big non-linear load to the axel stand. I think there would be other problems first.
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I got my quote from Doug at http://www.fairladymotors.com or http://www.upgarageusa.com
I was over there the other day and they were starting up each clip and getting a video of it starting/running/reving/making boost.
strut lengths
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
The front and rear 240z Illumina struts are the same. The rear just has the spacer on it.