vashonz
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Posts posted by vashonz
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Starlet again.
OR even a Pulsar, It probably wouldn't look good with fender mirrors, but its reliable and gets good mileage.
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I would check the plug wires. I had a problem where my RPMs were jumping all over the place, and it was due to cracked ignition cable insulation. This caused interference with the tach signal. When I replaced the cables, the problem was solved.
This was with SDS, but I imagine the megasquirt may be similar.
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So you know you got spark. The only other thing is fuel.
Unless of course your timing is off. I would say retard the spark by another 10 degrees. j/k
Seriously, when you tested for spark was the plug in the tailpipe? or was it being grounded against somthing else. you might try running a wire from the ground on the plug to the ground on the coil.
For fuel, try spraying lighter fluid in there (BUT BE CAREFUL), that will give you an idea if there is enough fuel.
Also although I'm probably the only person with a 240z who is running a cat, if you have one it probably effects the amount of fuel left unburnt in the exhaust.
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Does it matter that i have lowering springs ? ive noticed that when i rais ethe front off the ground the strut is about 3 inches longer then the spring . therefore the spring falls out of its perchevry time and i have to reset the spring when lowering the car back down .
With the tokico springs and shocks I installed on my 240z the lowering springs were not under any pressure when the strut assembly was removed from the car, but there was not 3" of play. I don't know if a 280z is that much different.
the rears werent as bad but when raised the springs wer not under any type of load . . The struts came with what i call a piece of metal fence post pipe , that went under each strut to make up for the height of the strut tube so as the insert would sitin the correct height position . Kinda like high heals for a lady to make the strut taller !!! is that normal for a 78 280z ? .
i dont remember but i think the " pipe " spacer went in the rear , i cant take it apart as i drive it to work and dont have another ride . Jason
The tokico illumina rear struts I have had a spacer like you described.
I don't know if this will help you at all, but I have the suspension I pulled off my 240z, from the control arm to the top of the strut. Also have both stock and Tokico (lowering) springs. I'll probably just be throwing this stuff away. I will let most of it go for a whistle.
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Me too. PM sent.
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RE: 1-I didn't see the episode, but I always like it when theres a fast turbo Dodge/Chrysler minivan that just smokes everything.
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Last time it snowed here I saw 5 guys stopped in the middle of the road trying to figure out how to put chains onto their car. It was not a bad idea as there was a long icy hill infront of them (I had just come down it).
I stopped when I saw that they were putting the chains on the rear, of an Integra. I told them that it was a FWD car, but I'm not sure they understood english, and my spanish was too rusty to do much good.
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My toy, 2005 R1 supposedly it makes 180 hp. I don't know because I can never find a need to use it all. Most of the time I live in Guam where I can do double the speedlimit anywhere on the island in 1st gear.
My last one was a '97 VFR750, way more comfortable than the R1, and it seemed easier to ride fast. Then I crashed it.
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Pull harder. If there is oil in the housing (there should be) it can hydraulically lock the insert in there.
There was a thread recently about drilling holes in the tube, search for that for solutions.
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Have them in hand. One thing that was recommended to me was to put the strut in the tube and put the nut on the while tacking them together.
Doing this aligns the 2 halfs almost perfectly. I did this and only use a welding magnet to hold them together. The strut inserts slid in and out of the housing easily and without grinding/sanding the inside at all.
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Oh, I just realized. Its a twin scroll manifold, so each side needs to have a wastegate to bypass the turbine. So they used 2 instead of plumbing both into a common wastegate in order to keep it completely separate.
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The window company I used to work for does stuff like that. They have a factory near you (Aurora, Co)
From what I remember they can make everything to size. Vinyl is cheap and performs well, but doesn't look as nice as the wood vineer fiberglass. Framing is easy (I built alot of frames when I tested the windows). They have some blueprint type drawings for the bay windows on their site.
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I ordered from Dave at AZC, highly recommended, awesome product, he called me a couple times to keep me updated on what was happeing with the order. When I called the order in he said he had to get it all together, would take a couple days. Sooner than that he called me and told me that it had shipped. The parts fit perfectly.
I also have parts from modern motorspots, also very nice. I don't have any of their machined parts (besides the rear brake bracket), so I can't comment on the annodized aluminum, it all fit nicely. The only issure was shipping from Canada can take a while.
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Looks nice.
Why did they put 2 wasetgates on it? Multiple boost settings? or just to flow more?
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EDM is cool, kind of like a really precise CNC plasma cutter. It should be able to get the bolt out. But will require the hole to be re-tapped.
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Fuel pump relay if its on the 240z harness.
On the zxt harness I have no clue, if it had yellow wires going to it I would say it goes to the transistor.
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240sx offset is generally +35-38. Newer trend is to run wider lower offset wheels in order to make the wheels more flush with the fenders. There is an increasing number of wheels offered in a low(ish) offset. However many of those may look funny on an s30 depending on your sense of style.
If you can find a good set of LUGCENTRIC spacers, and use good quality longer studs you should be able to run any of those wheels.
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For a 16x8.5 +30-35 with coilovers SHOULD fit. Once you put the 9" wheel on there everything is different.
I am running a 245 45 r 16 right now (still in the mockup phase). I'll try to get some photos up sometime this week.
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The AZC front hubs move the wheel out a little from stock, You can effectively use a higher offset wheel. I will be running 16x8 +38 in front and 16x8.5 +20 in the rear. I may need to run a 3-2mm front spacer. In the rear it just barely clears the strut. I will probably run a 5mm spacer to give a little extra room.
In a nutshell (look at me, I'm in a nutshell!) the fronts should fit just fine, the rears will need spacers.
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If you check out the book "How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems" http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Management-Systems-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760315825/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b/002-0930736-2629669
it has a table of all the different features for the different EFI systems. It's a pretty useful book.
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Read the directions.
I forgot to do this until I had removed both metal shells. I ended up cutting another mustach bar up in order to get the bushings out (cut perpendicular to the axis of the hole) which let me put the 2 halves of the metal part back in without messing with the lip.
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Too big, to busy, wrong offset
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The problem is the strut housing. Changing the distance from the hub to the strut would be alot of work.
If you mean to simply move the entire assembly inward I think you would totally mess up the suspension design. And would still require too much fabrication (moving strut towers, mustache bar mounts, LCA, ect)
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I had a problem where spark would break up ~3500 rpms due to a bad set of sparkplug wires. I replaced them with an oem set (the kind recommended by SDS) and it fixed my problem.
Top three HYBRID dream cars?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Ulitma GTR with an LS7 or an LT5, its not really a hybrid, but damn is it cool.
Have you seen the "DuRocco"? [EDIT TO ADD LINK] http://www.durocco.com/
Twinstar style car done on the cheap with 2 VW engines.