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vashonz
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Posts posted by vashonz
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I think (99% sure from what a friend told me) that there were two different sbc 400 casting designs, the good one looks like a sbc 350, the not so good one (not necessarily bad) has a different number of freezer plugs on each side.
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I have one of the sony vaio ones, it was a desktop replacement one for me (going to college and not driving) so I got the biggest screen they had (16") and as fast as I could afford (1.6ghz). This was a little over a 18 months ago, but it still works great and is fast enough to run -almost- anything I want.
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There is something wrong with the KKK story:
I can believe the bullet would have imbedded itself into the bone of the skull' date=' and maybe even puncture it, but not all the way through!
Davy[/quote']
Perhaps he was a little 'soft in the head.'
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Put the old spring back in?
It sounds like you got a much higher rate spring.
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Around here there is a guy who makes copper head gaskets, whatever thickness you want, its a couple hundred $ but it shouldn't blow up. The hks one is also supposed to be good, I don't know how hard they are to find.
Bigger combustion chamber, not shaving the head= lower compression, easier to run more boost, less likelyhood of detonation on pump gas.
Bent vanes are bad because they prevent airflow and decreasing the effectivness of the ic. You should be able to just bend them back, with a screwdriver or needle nose pliers.
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I went by precision and exchanged it for a different one, didn't cost me anything. This one fits much better.
BTW, I think the 240z didnt have a piece of weatherstrip across door jamb, instead they relied on a rubber flap attached to the bottom of the door.
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I got my 1 piece fully fiberglass for $450, but i also got the rest of the car thown into the deal.
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Some diesels in boats are designed to run backwards, it keeps them from having to use a reverse gear set.
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http://viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/icmounted.JPG
I had more pics, but shooting with a real camera (no flash), and in the dark makes it kinda hard. If you need more i can get more. I have the photos of scotties install on my other computer, but it got a nasty trojan so im not using it till i can fix it properly.
I had to cut out the center lower support, but that was only because I have a 240z, the 280z lower front crossmember has a dip in it.
I used 4 aluminum strips bent around as supports. As the IC sits now it is in front of the stock 280zxt oil cooler. The driverside is slightly further forward, and the entire unit is offset towards the passenger side. I used sections of pvc pipe to help line up the passenger side of the ic with the hole in the radiator support.
It hasn't been plumbed yet, but the passengerside should be easy, while the driverside I'm should be able to use two tight 90* sections of tubing.
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I have a set that uses one fastener at the leading edge, besides that it has 2 plastic prongs that insert into where the headlight adajustment scews are.
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I'm in the process of doing this. I took the entire dash out, it was really easy. I got a new core from a local radiator shop(ordered it fri @9:30, got it fri@1:40), it was $70, but the core(not the end tanks) was 1/8" too big. I brought it back this morning, they found another from the same place they got this one from. Instead I returned this one. Went to another place picked up one that was the right size, had a small problem with the shape of the end tank, but fixed that with a small hammer.
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"a born-again President who was almost elected"
"Attorney General John Ashcroft, and all other closeted scat fetishists"
This article is funny.
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I've heard that the oversteer problem can be corrected by installing a decent set of front shocks. This prevents excessive weight transfer to the front and the resulting oversteer.
You might also check out one of the "driver education" schools like Skip Barber. I did that last summer and it was a blast, I'm much more confient(not reckless) about driving, knowing how to handle/control oversteer is nice. Also, its a ton of fun, the my favorite part was actually the trucks, going round and round on the skid pad.
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I'm using the stock tank and fuel lines. I have the stock pump from the turbo donor car. This works fine, havn't had a problem with fuel starvation, just gotta keep it above .25 tank.
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Zip Tie.
It's not as pretty as alot of them, but it works.
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Running the intercooler w/o any other upgrades will not have any harmful effect on the motor.
The other installer shop shouldnt be pissed, no reason why the would be. As far as they know youre simply doing this one step at a time, and have had the ic on there for years. Also, the stuff you say Avalon Racing is going to install is completely seperate from the ic install, either could be done independly of the other.
As for the pop off valve, it looks like this http://viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/question.jpg its hte big thing in middle.
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A friend of my dad is going to have his shop help me fab the plumbing for my intercooler, and maybe exhaust.
A little background first: They manufacture aluminum boats that exceed military and CG standards, so they know how to weld aluminum and stainless. This is the plasma cutter they use.
The only thing they don't have is a mandrel bender.
I am trying to figure out what to do about the bends.
Options:
#1. pie cut the bends. Inexpensive. Looks different, flows better than crush bent. I saw the post eariler by
#2 Buy stainless or aluminum bends. Looks smooth, easier to fab(I'm not going to be doing the welding). Big problem is that these cost more than I want to spend (Budget was going to be $0, but I gotta get an electric fan, o2 sensor bung, and a muffler.)
#3 Buy tubing, have it bent, looks nicer and is cheaper. The problem is finding someone around here with a mandrel bending machine.
Things to keep in mind.
This is going to be tig welded by pros.
Straight tubing can be had cheap, I visited an industrial surplus place today, Aluminum tubing was $3 per pound, Stainless was $2 per pound.
I'm trying to keep costs as low as possible on this project.
Finally any suggestions/opinions on whether to use stainless steel or aluminum for the intake maniforld. Right now I'm split between the two, one looks really nice and has the ooh, ahh, factor; the other is lighter and more common.
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You might check out an IHI rx6, supports 3bar(constantly), 600hp/turbo, about the same spool characteristics than my t3. Honda used them on their F1 engines.
I was kinda suprised when I saw a couple of them last week, they're tiny, seem much smaller than the t3 found on the zcars.
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Check out a cat from a 280zxt, thats what was I was going to use on my 240z, except that I cut up the flanges on the cat before I was told I should use it.
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I bought one of these this morning after talking to ScottieMIz about them. He used both the starion one and the volvo one and said the volvo one was better.
Yes they do have plastic end tanks, they look like theyre on there pretty good so as long as youre not running 18psi you should be fine.
I bought mine for $60, incase your helmet is worth more than that.
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I think he meant les schwab, not shucks.
Hey Tim, i went to and talked to doug today, he said its really easy, you just need a pickle fork, ive got one; and you dont need to remove the strut or anything, just the steering arm. Either you can borrow it, or you can come over to do the work at my house again.
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My car doesnt have one and runs fine.
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The tool and die shop I work for recently bought a powdercoating setup, I get free use of it and only have to supply my own powder.
I have a couple extra sets of suspension sitting around and am going to sandblast and powdercoat one of the extra sets and possibly do a coilover setup at the same time.
My questions were:
1. Should I leave the bushing surfaces as clean metal? Will powdercoating this area cause the suspension bushings (planning on poly) to bind?
2. The suspension mating surfaces, should they be left bare? Will coating them throw stuff out of alignment?
3. Suggestions on colors? Right now im thinking dark grey, or dark blue. I want it to make oil/bad stuff visible, but not be too flashy.
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You might try first casting it in aluminum, in tacoma theres a place that will do custom casting, I know they make turbo housings for one of the local shops. http://www.creativecastingco.com/. I got a quote from them on casting a window striker part(small simple part), and it was 2000-3000 for a sand mold (this would be set up to make thousands), and 15k-20k for a die cast mold. If they do lost foam casting it might make it alot easier. If you need an L-series engine to help design it, ive got a couple you can use.
SBC 400
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
My understanding was that the stronger (more desireable ones) looked exactly the same as the 350. This could be used to cheat a little, just saying all you had was a 350 but instead running a 400.