vashonz
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Posts posted by vashonz
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I think the SDS website talks about sequential VS batch fire. Apparently even most of the sequential fire systems switch to batch above ~3000 rpm.
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I don't read japanese at all. Does the lemans VRH50A V8 have 14:1 compression?
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forgive me if this is a stupid question but are there are two sensors in that pipe. One for the air/ fuel ratio guage and one for the megasquirt? is that right? is it possible to use the same sensor for both a air/ fuel ratio guage and for mega squirt?
The LC-1 has 2 analog outputs that can be programmed as the input to the ECU (SDS for me, MS for someone else).
When I originally built the downpipe I put 2 bungs in, one for a NBO2 for the ecu and the other for a wideband when I put it on the dyno. Now I'm using one for the wideband sensor on the car, and keeping the other one plugged unless I go to the dyno.
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the width of a wheel is determined by measuring the area where the tire seats to the rim. in the diagram you put up it would be the measurement of "outboard flange" to "outboard flange" if anyone talks about it diffrently they are flat out WRONG.
?
I think you mean "Outboard bead seat" to "Inboard bead seat"
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Looks good, I really want one of those.
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Ebay 12"x24"x3" with 3" in and out. Used cheap ebay aluminum mandrel bends (6 for $77). The mandrels did not look the best, but the material was nice, it welded REALLY smooth once I took the annodizing off.
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I think someone used the change in AFR as proof of an increase in flow of an aftermarket intake manifold. I think it was either lonewolf or speed shop thagard (one of them is james I think).
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The neck was a transition piece I got from the local NAPA (they actually have some steel mandrel bends there too).
The bov fits nicely between the TPS and the fenderwell. If I still had the stock coils this location would not work.
The TB will actually be on the right side of the pipe, I thought about putting the BOV opposite the throttle, but there would have been an interference problem with the radiator.
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Just welded up a new intake pipe to go from the IC to the throttle body. I still need to weld the flange for the bypass/BOV.
I don't know if I should do the extra plumbing to recirc or just vent to atmosphere. Either will work fine because the AFM has been replaced with a MAP.
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The wheelbase was stretched 4.25" and the firewall was recessed to make it better proportioned and to make room to lower and move back the engine to lower and move back the center of gravity.
I think its funny how one guy on there talks about the engine from the Z.
"the nissan inline 6 that originally came in those older Z's are capable of over 1000 bhp (proof being that is the same block in the famed Nissan Skylines from 1990 through 2001) with a proven track record. I'm not knockin the BMW plant in any measure' date=' but thought i'd share that fact in case you know some import tunies who might want that old engine if you still have it. :)""as for the datsun engines, most internal parts are indeed forged, if it's a datsun, you've got thier best parts, if it's a nissan (actual badging and manufacturer) then the crank and rods are forged. the pre-nissan Datsun engines are very sought after by the JDM crowd because of this. it CAN get expensive, but given these girls', i'm sure they could easily handle most of the nit-picky work to save labour costs.
if there's a HIN or NOPI event coming to town near ya and need a few quick bucks, that'd be a good place to get the most for your money on the old engine (if you decide to get rid of it). the (real) pro drag and road-course racers would definately have interest."[/quote']
Man, I don't see why people are importing these skyline engines from japan, apparently I have a couple just sitting in my back yard. With their all forged internals getting all rusty.
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wtf.. mine is supposed to show on wednesday.. damnit
Same here. I WANT IT NOW.
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From the title I thought it was going to involve police with special dogs.
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I saw a skyline today that had vinyl graphics on it that was chrome-ish. It looked very nice, I think that might be a better option for only doing smaller areas. It might not be as smooth and perfect because it had a little more orange peel to it.
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There was one episode of the simpsons where Homer added speed holes to a car using a pitch fork (I think it was flander's car). But those were in the front.
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I found a really nice front and side photo with dimensions on it on some norwegan website, I don't remember where it was, but I did save the photo.
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The owner of this car flew my dad down to SEMA to photograph this car. He says it was designed to "corner really good and go really fast" (quote from him standing in the kitchen).
There are some pretty good photos of it on his computer I could post up if anyone wants.
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Spindle pin?
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They had a link to the winners of the contest, 3 of them were actually painted on the trucks. It was the pringles one, the pepsi one, and some german shipping company.
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Thats cool, the whole trump l'eoul (I don't speak french) thing is pretty sweet, its neat to see it applied to moving advertizing.
I found the images on snopes. http://www.snopes.com/photos/arts/truckart.asp
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I think what people do is use the SMAW/GTAW power supply and a spool gun to do MIG without buying a separate machine.
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By electric do you mean SMAW (shielded metal arc welding), ie consumable electrode with a flux coating? If so I know you can weld stainless steel with SMAW, I'm not so sure about aluminum (I think you might be able to, it would just be difficult and messy)
MIG welding is alot harder for me than TIG. Other people will say the opposite.
When TIG welding I usually set the flow to 20 CFH (Cubic Feet per Hour).
Starting a MIG welder is easy, you pull the trigger, wire comes out of the gun, touches the metal, creates an arc, and starts depositing wire into the weld bead.
You could braze-weld steel/stainless to aluminum, but not weld. Welding aluminum is REALLY easy if you have a machine that will do AC and HF (High frequency).
Welding steel to Stainless steel is fine, you just need to use 309 filler rod.
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Sweet, its ordered and paid for. This should help getting it tuned.
Getting bodywork done.
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
I talked to someone today about having him do the rust repair and body work on my 240z. I want to do this myself, but am moving to Guam on saturday so am a little short on time.
What I would have him do is:
-Replace floor pans
-Repair rusted dogleg on driver side
-Repair rusted panel above the taillight
-Smooth the bumper mounts
-Shave the side markers and Antenna hole.
-Repair small rust bubbles
-Install fender flairs (cut and weld stock fenders)
-Strip the paint off the car.
-Paint the car (color and clear)
He looked at the car today and estimated it would be $4500 for all that. Everyone I've talked to says he does REALLY good work, and the cars he does come out nice. He mentioned fender flairs and talked about cutting the outer fender and welding it to the inner fender. So I trust him to do a good job.
What I'm worried about is that it seems like ALOT of money to spend. I was (tenatively) planning on getting the AZC brakes, coilovers, bigger wheels and tires.
Also, what color should I paint it? If you send links to your car (or one that looks good) that would be awesome.