vashonz
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Posts posted by vashonz
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Part of it is that it makes it more exciting, both to watch and to be there.
I was at an auction last summer in NYC which was run by a different company. There were lots of cool cars there, but the bidding seemed slow. Later in the night it picked up a little (free beer and vodka in the VIP/bidder section helped), but after the final bid it was usually "I'll check with the owner to see if he will sell it for that" instead of "SOLD SOLD SOLD"
There were some cool cars there, enzo, carrera, the batmobile F50, older Maserattis and Ferraris, and a couple neat custom bikes.
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I think I used the headliner from one of my parts cars and just used spray adhesive to stick it to the flapper.
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If you do any aluminum you're going to need 100% argon. Helium works too (better penetration because its hotter) but is more difficult and costs more.
Some places will only fill/service tanks they sell.
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A friend of mine bought one with the complete rear suspension to use in a lotus 7 type project. I don't remember how the power handling for it was, I'll have to ask.
From what I remember when we picked it up it was nice, everything looked solid.
If I had the time/work space I would consider swapping in the entire rear suspension.
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I would just reweld it, or get a radiator shop to reweld it. Anything that holds fluid should be welded without any porosity.
I don't think soldering would work that well.
A couple things to watch if you do.
1. If you cherry the metal (carbon steel specifically) it gets brittle and does not hold up well (someone in my class overheated their nipple on a pressure vessel, when they pressurized it it cracked in half at 200psig)
2. Solder flows to whats hot, I think that if you heated the weld bead, the surrounding sheet metal would get too hot before the entire weld was heated, causing the solder to flow to the surrounding metal rather than the weld bead like you want.
3. Don't use a propane torch, it works for thin copper pipe, but anything more substantial or with less heat transfer ability (steel) needs alot to heat, I have no idea about MAP gas, but oxyfuel can be rented easily.
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St. Martins is in Olympia right? I worked with someone who went there, he seemed pretty proficent at autocad, but I got bored working inside with computers, so I went out to the tool and die shop, worked there.
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I learned to use Solid Edge in college, really liked it, once I started working they used Solid Works, at first I hated it, after a while I got used to it.
We also used AutoCAD, I never liked it, everything seemed very difficult, I used this mostly to update blueprints for the different parts we had.
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Not to burst your bubble, but I'm pretty sure the LS1 is not DOHC. The only DOHC Chevy V8 I can think of off the top of my head is the LT5. Otherwise it sounds cool.
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whats the best bang for your buck for the management systems?
Best bang for your buck is probably megasquirt. Second to that I think is SDS. It does not have all the features of some of the EMS systems, but for a beginner (like me) because it is less complex I will supposedly get the engine to a higher state of tune.
One of the biggest factors for me choosing SDS was it was cheap, easy to understand and install, and does not require soldering or troubleshooting electronic assemblies (I are mechanic).
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I saw one of these a couple years ago at Laguna Seca during the Monterey Historics. They did a couple laps in this car. What I remember was that they spun out at least 3 or 4 times. Its a cool car, but if they can't put down all that power it seems kind of useless, although that might have been before they refined the TCS
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A friend tried to import a turbo diesel passat from when she was in germany. From what I heard she never got it out of customs and ended up shipping it back to germany.
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I would be concerned with corrosion of the exhaust tube due to water retention, especially with all the salt they use on the roads in NY.
The aluminum tape should keep the exhaust wrap from fraying, but might cause increased corrosion. I have no idea about how the tape would effect heat retention.
I think ceramic coating would be a better idea.
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I learned how to TIG weld today. We had the classroom stuff yesterday. Today they gave us the demo then let us try it. It is alot easier than MIG or stick.
Initially I had some problems with sticking the electrode while scratching to strike an arc, but eventually figured it out. HF start is nice. By the end of the day I had some pretty consistent beads using 309 rod on stainless plate. The hardest part was keeping the interpass temp below 500 F.
My experience with MIG welding was trying to build some saw tables at work. I could never get the feed rate and current correct and usually ended up either burning holes in the .120 wall tube or making a pile of weld.
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L28et will be cheaper and easier (it bolts in), no fabricating engine mounts, worrying about plumbing it, ect.
VG30ET would be neat because its not as common, but will require more $$$$, more fabrication, more headache.
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Doug at Fairlady motors (253-565-9823) has a dyno, I know he has done TEC3 and other systems, so I'm sure he can figure the SDS out.
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I'm pretty sure that GTAW would probably be better for bodywork and finish welding, just because of the control you have over the heat. I know that at weld school we have to keep the NiCu under 350 degrees while welding. MIG is probably used more often because its fast and easy.
What I like about the GTAW machines we use is that you can do SMAW by just changing out the cup for a stinger and flipping a few switches. SMAW is nice because its fast, while still having control over the weld.
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You might try looking in the classifieds. (not the newspaper, but the hybridz ones, in the "complete engines" section)
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A couple years ago I downloaded this game http://www.racer.nl/ and it looked great, seemed like it had good physics, but was nearly unplayable because it really needs an analog input(wheel) instead of just the keyboard(digital). Using the mouse it was ok, but not fun.
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So basically all you're looking for is a 4 cylinder engine that revs to 11000, makes 650 hp, has low end torque, and is naturally aspirated?
Oh, and is less expensive than an RB26.
My suggestion would be to read a little, then read alot more. From what I've read this engine does not exist. Do a search, see what other people have done.
Why 500-650hp? Is that a number you pulled out of thin air? Do you have anything to compare that to?
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Why do you want it to rev to 11000rpm? Just because?
For enough $ you can make any engine rev that high.
I think the only engines that will rev to near that are from motorcycles (my '05 R1 redlines at ~12500), almost all sport bikes have ITBs and 6 speed sequential transmissions. The biggest hurdle will be adding reverse to the bike engine, there are companies that make reverse boxes.
ITBs and forced induction can work together. There was a discussion on here recently talking about lagless turbos and ITBs. Also every turbo R1 I have ever read about uses the stock throttle plates.
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I have a '91 Pathfinder SE, it works pretty well, I have not encountered the reverse gear issure at all. I think in NY that if the car is more than 10 years old the odometer reading is not recorded anymore.
The 4x4 works pretty well, I had to drive a friend to the airport in RI on Friday and there was alot of snow. It never got stuck, the only thing I had some trouble with was once the roads cleared I had to pull into a parking lot to switch it back to 2wd (I don't think its shift on the fly).
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On my stock 280zxt pump there was a small strainer on the suction of the pump, actually located inside the nipple.
You don't need the dampner, just get rid of it.
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A big thing is to check out the area the college is in, try to spend some time there. I went to a killer engineering college in michigan, but really hated the city (Flint) ended up not returning after my first simester. Mostly it was that engineering is boring, but a part of it is that Flint sucks.
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There is a program called LENGINE.EXE that I have on my computer. I don't remember where I found it. I'm sure someone can email it to you (my email is broken right now). If you have AIM contact me, I'll send it that way.
Pix of L28 Twin Turbo?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Theres one on ebay right now. (search for "s30 twin turbo"). I was close to buying it, but want to spend $ on components that will keep growing with the car (I want to put a rb26 in)