bernie lomax

have an intercooler from a 90 ford thunderbird SC. is that what you were thinking? let me know if interested

Hi, my stock L28e fuel pump failed & I decided to upgrade to a Walbro GSL-392 unit. Everything else on the car is stock & it is non-turbo (for the time being). My question is what should the proper fuel pressure (psi) be for the Walbro pump? I have a fuel pressure gauge taking readings before the fuel pressure regulator & with the stock pump it was also pretty steady at 30-35psi before it died. With the Walbro installed, I now see readings of 90psi which can fluctuate down to 40 psi. The pump is also making an oscillating, siren like noise as if it is laboring heavily & it is very hot to the touch (hotter on the fuel output side than the input side). Volt reading at pump terminals varies between 9.5 - 10.4vdc when it is making the noise. It may then run quiet for a while with pressure at a steady 40psi & only warm to the touch, with volts at a steady 10.1vdc. It almost seems like the pump is labouring trying to pass a "kidney stone" or some type of blockage. My worry is that I am slowly burning out the pump. I only let it run for approx. 5mins like this in the driveway. Wanted to confirm the psi reading that a Walbro GSL-392 should produce before the regulator. Any help/suggestions is appreciated.

looking for a good, working TPS & figure it will come attached to the TB (stock replacement for my 78 L28E na is fine)...would also consider a 60mm TB upgrade provided the shaft has been modified to accept the original ball/socket linkage...thx for your time

I think I may have one, but I will need to check...will have the side vent tho...interested?

just wanted to confirm the specification differences between a ZXT fuel pump & a Z fuel pump...I imagine slightly more psi & flow rate but wanted to understand the numbers & if the turbo unit is stouter & heavy duty & in what areas...any info is appreciated

this is more of a question, will a T3 exhaust mani fit without mod to a Z31 T3? thx

the previous owner(s) of my 78 280Z w/ L28E manual tranny swapped in many different parts, so now I'm trying to play catch up...I do not know if the ECU & AFM are correct for a 78, however, I'm trying to confirm that they are correct for each other...ECU part # is A11-600-000 & AFM part # is A31-000-050...also will an AFM part # A31-605-000 be compatible w/ that same ECU...appreciate any info that someone can provide or pointing me in the right direction..thx

looking for a POV. preferably stock, from a ZXT intake...pressure release setting at less than 10psi is fine...pls pm me..thx

looking for new or used (but in good condition): BOV suitable for L28E turbo swap; inlet will be tapped into stock j-pipe, outlet will be hose connected to turbo inlet hose...also, a black faced boost gauge showing both boost & vaccuum readings (should come w/ lines & fittings)...pls pm me...thx

hi, tried the search function & could not locate a thread outlining the steps or the "how to" for modifying the 240sx 60mm TB linkage so that it will work w/ the 280Z style ball connector throttle linkage...I think the shaft & the linkage needs to be swapped from a 280Z TB to the SX TB, or maybe there's another way of doing it...if someone could either direct me to a link or thread outlining this mod or could provide some info, it would be greatly appreciated...trying to decide if its a pita or a relatively easy mod to complete...I understand a 1" adaptor plate is also required & the TPS will need to be swapped out as well...thx for your time

Adam, sounds like maybe the "kick in the nuts" shock is startin' to slide into the rearview mirror where it belongs & in your windshield you're getting support from da boyz to help pull you thru...grad the lifeline & pull...my 2 cents...godspeed on getting past this hurdle as options open up

looking for a set of lowering springs for a 78 280Z...new or used...linear w/ same or slightly higher spring rate than stock (I think stock is 185 front & 200 rear, but I'm not 100% sure)...looking to lower car by approx. 1- 1.5" from stock height...already have struts...thx

are the turn signal lens the ones that fit in the grill or the side marker lens? thx for clarifying

hi, did you end up selling the front & rear bumpers for a 280Z? do you mind mentioning the price for both? thx for your time & PM if you'd prefer

thx for the response...the injectors are stock 78 L28E...I've rigged up a tester to spray into a glass jar...will remove pintle cap on one to see if stream squirt turns into conical spray...if spray is better shape w/ bare metal tip, then I'd go bareback but will have to make sure o-ring stays on...if this sounds ok or if I'm inviting trouble, pls let me know...thx for your time

hoping someone can assist...have tried to search but can't find the info...can injectors be run with the plastic pinter caps removed? in other words, with just the bare metal tip, no plastic cover? assistance is appreciated

thx for the reply...I should have mentioned that I have downloaded & gone thru the EFI Bible...a power surge thru the system screwing up the normally smooth operation of the ECU is the only thing that I can think of which would now cause this intermittant running rich problem... again any thoughts/opinions/experiences are appreciated

I have a question which I hope someone can help shed some light on: is it possible that my positive terminal connection to the starter from the battery, when it got mucked up w/ white residue & did not provide a good connection for current flow thru (in fact, for a while, I lost all electrical power, not even the courtesy light would work), during this intermittant power condition when I tried to start the engine, could a voltage surge have gone through the wiring system & fried the ECU? the ECU still works but now intermittantly makes the engine run really rich for a while (15-30 secs w/ thick black smoke out of the tailpipe) before it corrects itself...appreciate hearing from the community

help is appreciated...for a 78 280z, the question is "is a A11-601 000 ECU interchangeable w/ a A11-600 000 ECU?"...I think the 601 ECU is for Cali & 600 ECU is for non-Cali...I think...thx

for a 1978 280z, manual, non california car, is a A11-601 000 ECU interchangeable w/ the A11-600 000 ECU? thx

hi, just wanted to understand your intent, so your complete L28ET will be swapped into a NA 78 280Z & you'd use stock 78 NA ECU, wiring harness, & dizzy so some of the turbo engine's sensors will not be connected to the ECU...is that the intended program? I would like to add turbo components to my NA 78 L28E (do a turbo conversion to my N42 block & N47 head) but if possible would like to run the stock NA wiring harness, ECU & dizzy...so what I want to do is very similar to what you want to do if you could keep me posted as to what you find out & how you make out, it would be appreciated...I will do the same...my email is david.drake@sympatico.ca

I am interested in running a hot racing coil (approx.50,000 volt) w/ my stock 78 "magnetic trigger" dizzy (my electronic ignition system is the one just before the E12-80 type)...I am trying to confirm if the coil & stock ignition should be compatible given that I've read that a racing coil should be run w/ a companion racing ignition (info I've read indicates that a racing coil may draw too much current & damage the ignition)...I thought this would be more of a concern if I were running a points distributor setup, but what about w/ my electronic setup? is there a way to tell? (ie. acceptable ohm resistance from the coil?) or would I be better off buying a MSD Blaster-2 coil & running that w/ my stock ignition? this is assuming that my magnetic trigger ignition is "just as good" as the E12-80 type. your thoughts are appreciated

has anyone heard of a percolator forced induction system? it was explained to me as an electrically powered (off the car's electrical system) fan which blows additional air into the intake...it was apparently used on a carbed zcar...I have never heard of this unit & thought I'd try you guys...thx for your time

interesting idea, given that alot of attention is spent on high end power output & not lower rpm mucho torque production...would want to achieve the same results out of my NA L28E...pls let me know how you make out & if you know of any other trade secrets to coax more torque out of the L28E, I've got thirsty ears ...thx for your time

if no port work was done on the MN47 head & the stock valves remained, would the stock MN47 produce noticeable gains on the stock dished piston L28E? sounds like putting in the larger valves is spending money that may not be necessary if low-mid range torque is desired...appreciate your time