ransomnotes

Although I've only done test fittings so far, my flares from classicdatsun aren't going to require any bending or cutting. This isn't the first time I've heard bad things about MSA flares. Another reason why I ordered from classicdatsun.

Huh...I was trying to make out those initials. Didn't those come with Rajay turbos? Not looking to purchase it. Was just curious. I think my first turbo setup was pieced together from a BAE kit, but it didn't have the original j-pipe.

The pic is bad, but it's the only one the seller sent me. He has no idea what it is either. Came out of a 240z, and kinda looks like a Cartech.

This should be my last update to this thread. Now I know why the problem I was having was so sporadic. Was messing with the wires to my ECU, while watching my air/fuel gauge, and realized there is a problem on the top plug (the smallest). I would watch the gauge signal bounce around as I touched the wires. I also experienced performance improvements while driving and moving these wires. Just to make sure the problem wasn't inside the ECU, I inspected all the pin's solder joints. No bad joints. So, I got on Z31performance and bought some Z31 ECU connectors with at least 12 inches of wiring. Should feel like a completely different car once I get those old plugs replaced!

I used JB Weld on mine, and it's held up for over a year now. Even with all that turbo heat. Trick was to use a good amount of aluminum shavings (from porting the manifold), and mix them with the JB Weld. I cut the EGR off with a sawzall, cut a piece of thin steel to cover the hole, and applied quite a bit of the JB Weld/aluminum mixture inside and out. Make sure the surface is clean, and use a coarse sandpaper to give it some texture before applying the mix. I inspect mine every couple of months to make sure the heat hasn't gotten to it, and so far so good. Better to have it welded, or get an N42, but I was pretty much in the same boat as you when I did mine. Low on funds, and couldn't find an N42 for a good price. Had an extra N47, and figured I'd give it a try. My mom has an N42 intake in one of her parts cars, and I've been trying to get her to sell it to me for two years now.

Not to step on toes, but you can pick up a Sunpro double gauge pod at your local auto parts store. Got mine at Advance Auto. I think it was $22, and with a few hours of work, it can be made to fit. Had to have somewhere to put my gauges asap, so I went this route. I will be following your progress though Derek. The Sunpro works, but I wouldn't mind a more pro fit. I did run into the issue of my Air/Fuel gauge being covered by my visor when down. That was the best position to mount it though, utilizing the existing pillar mounting holes. Sorry it's a dark phone pic

I too have both rear bumper shocks. Was gonna scrap them. I'd sell one for $5 plus shipping. Don't know how much it would be to ship though. They are fairly heavy.

"The brackets that are on the inside of the 73' bumpers are located differently from a series one bumper, which extends them away from the body as you have discovered. The over all side length of the earlier series 1 bumper is shorter and pulls in closer to the body. I have one of each and have put them side by side for a comparison." ^This is quoting Nelsonian from a thread about an issue I had fitting the '73 front bumper on my 280. You might check Z Car Custom's Conversion Brackets. Not sure if they fit the 240 or not, but they allowed me to push my '73 bumper in as flush as it's gonna get. I cut off the side mount brackets and ran a bolt straight through, which brought the sides in closer.

I believe that's for an automatic transmission, and will not work well for my setup.

#A18-603 045 Manual transmission madawkward@gmail.com Thanks!

I hope that tattoo was in the middle of the healing and flaking process when that pic was shot. If not, that is a hack job.

Well, another update for anyone still following this... Car started running like crap again. Did another compression test, and all is good. But I'm noticing a pattern now, which has got me thinking even more that I have an ECU problem. After I disconnect the battery and reset the ECU connections, the car runs great. Give it a day or so, and it starts all over again. Running lean under boost, bucking, and terrible performance. I'll then reset the ECU, and it runs smooth again. Air/fuel looks great. Car runs great. Wish it ran that good all of the time! As already stated, my connectors do not appear to be dirty or loose at all. Neither at the ECU or the harness, so I've never really questioned the ECU before. But now I guess I'm on the lookout for another ECU to try. I'm not ruling anything else out just yet, but I feel like this HAS to be the problem.

That's a score! My wife would not be happy if I brought three z cars home in one day. I have to sweet talk her into allowing just one parts car. Let me know when you're ready to part out. I need an ECU.

Nah, it's cool . Just figured I would post that from the FSM because there seems to be a lot of conflicting info out there on correct timing for the 83 turbo. Some people say 20, some say 24. Yet multiple people have pointed out that it states 24 degrees under their '83 turbo hood, and obviously in the FSM. Work has had me so busy that I haven't had a chance to mess with the car much more. Been driving it daily though. So far it's running consistently better. No more bucking. Power is back. Air/fuel ratio is still looking good. IDK, things are looking good again. Still gonna check my compression again if I have time this weekend.

Has anyone tried this yet? I was wondering how hard it is to rotate the pipe. Doesn't seem like it would be that easy. I gave it a go, but I can't weld, so I tried JB Weld. Didn't work, and the washer broke loose. I think the vice grips I was using were too small anyway.

Yeah, I think I'll take it out around town for a while tonight, and see if it's running consistently better. If so, I'll retard the timing back down and see what happens.

Figured I would give a little update here on my issue. One of the things I failed to check recently was my timing. I remember setting it several months ago at 20 degrees btdc, but during a lot of searching I came across several threads that mentioned timing for an 83 turbo should be 24 degrees btdc. So I double checked my 83 FSM, and sure enough, 24 degrees. I have a few different FSM's, so I must have pulled up the wrong one when I initially set my timing. So far the car is running MUCH better. I'm hoping that's all it was, but it's proved me wrong before. We'll see. I have a friend coming over tomorrow evening to help me do another compression test. Any thoughts?

Just power. Boost gauge signal is from the intake, and pressure isn't dropping under boost. I wonder if a video would help everyone see and hear what's going on. I made one but the audio ended up being too low. I might give it another try. Thanks for the help so far guys! We are expecting a baby soon, and I'm hoping to get this figured out before then. I know I won't have much time to play with the car for a while after .

I used to have my boost controller signal taken from the turbo, but started taking it from the intake when I installed my IC. Worth a try to take it from there again just to see what happens. I thought it was best to take it from the intake when you add an IC? The wastegate flapper moves freely when the actuator arm is disconnected, and I've made sure the actuator works correctly by hooking it up to an air compressor.

I have not done a compression test for almost a year now. I don't recall the exact numbers, but it was something like 135-140 down the line. You are right though. I should do another test. As far as boost goes, it happens regardless of how much I'm running. There were a couple times when I thought I fixed the problem, and the car started running good again, so I raised the boost back up. Otherwise, I try to keep it down anytime I'm trying to diagnose an issue.

More weirdness. After gapping the plugs at .030, and resetting ECU connections, the air/fuel was now showing normal to slightly rich under boost. Still had the same symptoms as before though. Very little power during boost. So I parked and ran into work for a couple minutes. Took the car back out, and now boost is back, but still not as strong as it used to be. Definitely feels a lot better, but not great. Air/fuel still showing normal to slightly rich. Been running stock boost again until I get this figured out. I'm beginning to question my ECU since this is such an off and on thing. I really don't think I have a boost leak going on. I've checked piping, couplers, hoses, etc MULTIPLE times now.

Thanks, I'll try running a smaller gap and see what happens. I'm also gonna check my ECU connections again, even though they appear to be tight and clean. Then my next test will have to be hooking up an additional fuel pressure gauge that I can monitor while driving.