nicksoccer22

A few notes before I get into it 1.I am rewiring my car from scratch. So I have no clue what color wires correspond to what pins, or what year switches I am using 70-78 2. I'm not using the stock taillights, I only have an off, high and low signal, all red(Think Semi trailer lights). So the way I wired stuff might be different for you 3.I feel that if you understand the concept of what I am showing below you can adapt what you have to create something similar. I am an idiot when it comes to wiring, but I got this to work for me so feel free to copy it at your own risk haha. This definitely isn't stock Hazard switch (Ignore the PinX stuff for now, That is how I am keeping track of what wire is going to what pin on the connectors I have) I see the hazard switch as the first step in how the power is routed. The switch has two different states (Noted by the vertical dashed line in the image above), on and off, each with it's own outcome. Hazards on: (Right side of above image) 5 Pins should be connected on the switch when the hazard switch is on/closed, use a multimeter to test continuity between all the pins, and note which ones are connected. One of the pins should receive 12v + from a flasher unit (I am using a PDM (Bussman31s002) to get fused 12v power, then putting that into a 3 wire flasher unit that is adjustable to set the timing of the flashes). So when I have my hazard switch on, power flows through the pdm, then into the flasher, into one of the 5 connected pins on the Haz SW, then a wire out to each of the 4 turn signal lights. This also kills all connections to the "Off" side of the switch. In my case, this disables the turn signals, and brake lights. Hazards off: (left side of above image) there are going to be two sets of two pins that are connected when the hazards are off/closed. Use a multimeter, check continuity, write it down. Feed one of the pairs with fused 12v+. The pin that is connected to the 12v+ gets a wire that is spliced into 2 different locations. Location 1 is the brake switch. Location 2 is a second Flasher unit. These two wires then come back together to feed the Turn signal switch, one flashing, one constant. When the switch is in this position, everything on the right side of the above image is no longer connected. Turn Signal Switch The Turn Signal Switch works off of two inputs 12v constant (Connected to 2 pins that should correspond with your Brake lights, and will disconnect from one of the pins if the turn signals are on in that direction) and 12v flashing (Connected to either the front left and rear left, front right and rear right pins, or no pins at all depending on the location of the stalk. So, for me, If my brakes are on, I get a signal to the "high" side of my tail light. WoodworkerB's website is invaluable. I recreated all of his diagrams with the corresponding wire color of my switch to use for my own project. https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/blinker-detail/ https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/ Below I have a schematic of what the whole thing looks like, minus the detail of what the internals of the switches are actually doing, as well as the pinouts. (right most column is where the wire terminates, to its left is where it starts) Looks like the images are tough to read. DM me if you want a full size copy. Let me know if you have questions, or tell me that I'm wrong haha, The harness still in the basement so I would rather fix stuff now than when it is in the car. But as is the lighting system is functional, I pulled out a bunch of stuff to test it all.

Carbon Signal Moonbeam

I do plan doing a heater/defroster, but figuring that out is a problem for future me haha. From what I have seen a lot of aftermarket kits are pretty narrow, and I don't think it will be a problem. As it stands I can move the assembly away from the firewall ~3" without the door of the PDM hitting where the heater controls would go, I can also change up the angle so it sits more vertically, If I do that I could probably run the stock unit, but I really haven't done a lot of digging on that.

Any chance you'd be willing to post some pictures of with the mirrors installed, and if you have any the plate you made to attach them?

I'm not using a painless kit, and I am not planning on using the stock heater components/panel, so this might not be the most applicable, but the images below are what I am doing to mount a Eaton Bussman 31M series PDM and some other components for wiring. Front view, Drilled a couple holes into the inner/lower dash support bar and added rivnuts. I also have a connector piece not pictured that connects the top of the plate I am mounting everything to with the underside/top of the dash for more stability. View of the back, no rivnuts yet in this pic, and an earlier version of the mounting plate but you get the idea. I have been doing all the wiring with a spare dash outside of the car, along with my good dash in the car, it is really nice to reference points on the dashes to determine the length of wire I need to get to places, and not have to worry about pulling it all apart to wrap it later.

+1 on Merch. Trucker hats would be sweet.

Hey fusion, I'm also rewiring my car and saw your post and decided to try something like it. I removed the fresh air vent thing on the passenger side. From there I ran a fiberglass wire snake through and it ended up coming out right in front of the inspection light. I don't have pics of the interior side of what I did but that should be pretty self explanatory. I'm using Delphi/ aptiv metri-pack 280 series connectors, and when I was testing things out I was able to fit a 5 pin connector through the cavity, but it took some doing. I ended up only needing a bunch of 3 and 2 pin connector, so routing them wasn't too difficult, but I was careful to stagger the connectors off the main loom, and used plenty of tape to get it to all fish through. Overall it looks pretty nice, still need to sleeve it all and figure out grommets. Imo it's worth the time if you are rewiring. Doesn't take much more time, cleans up the engine bay and is probably a more reliable set up than having them sit on the frame rail

My 240 was rear ended in a past life and the previous owner had it fixed in an interesting way. Instead of the inset taillight panels and stock lights it has sheet metal attached flush to the rest of the panels so the back looks very flat, He also had 4 cheapo round (I think 5" diameter, but I forgot to double check that and I'm at work now, I'll update it when I get home) brake lights with no other functionality. The PO ruined the wiring, and when I was driving it to storage before going to college it started on fire under the dash and I haven't touched it since. So I am planning a new harness using a Eaton Bussman 31S-002-0 and I would like to actually have functional turn signals/running lights/reverse lights, So I am looking for new round tail lights. The things most important to me are Using 4 lights (2 per side obviously) have a red brake light, red running light, amber turn signal, and a white reverse light I would really prefer Non-led, but I I doubt that will be possible with my next point Mount as flush/ tight to the current sheet metal as possible. I wanted to see what the stock tail lights looked like on my car and just held them up to the hole the current lights are mounted and it looked VERY silly sticking out so far. so a flush mount is ideal. I am willing to cut the holes larger, again I will check to see what they are currently. Would love for the "lens" the lights to sit behind to be either all red or all black/smoke in color. Does anybody have experience using aftermarket round tail lights and have suggestions on brands? I don't mind spending some money to make sure I get what I want and not have to worry much about them dying quickly. The closest I have found can be found on ebay by searching "Euro Red Amber LED Combo Multi-Function Round Stop Turn Brake Tail Lights", It's the one for $90. The only thing I don't like about these is I don't like the look of the lenses with the multi color thing going on. Has anybody put a film tint on something like this? I thought that could be a work around for the issue I thought I had a better picture somewhere but I guess not.

From the sounds of it the guys at industry garage are thinking of making carbon fenders, Check them out on YouTube. I doubt they'd be the stock shape though

Retro-spec

Found some cool old videos on youtube of some racing story of the top competitors, Jim Fitzgerald, Paul Newman, Frank Leary, and Logan Blackburn for the 1978 SCCA championship at Road Atlanta. Not all Z related, but if you want to skip to about 9:40 in the video you get some datsun stuff. at 10:47 you can see Bob Sharp blow a tire and roll the car after hitting a barrier.

I'm looking to learn about how to read wiring diagrams and just understand the wiring of Z's better. Anybody have some suggestions on books/ videos That work well for that? Looking at either the diagrams or the actual car has me beyond confused and instead of asking a bunch of beginner questions here I thought it would be better to learn something for myself. Thanks guys!

I'm terrible at wiring, but I've made progress. Nothing I could find could get rid of the foam, gas, acytone, break cleaner, a mix of all of them... I broke off a bit I could reach and just for fun I tried to burn it and it wouldn't even do that until I broke out a propane torch and it still took a while to melt. Ended up running the harness along the wheel well inside the car for now. so here's where I'm at after swapping from a 72 harness to a 71. When I turn the key, I hear clicking on passenger side from one of the flashers? I used a cheap little wire tester that lights up if there's power, All pins have power on the flasher, and the starter/solenoid always has power. I don't have a multimeter right now to test how my juice it's all getting. Sounded like the fuel pump kicked on after the first turn of the key then hasn't made a peep since. I used a screwdriver to jump from the hot wire to the solenoid and the starter kicked on. I've tried 3 key switches, but I've never tested if any of them work. They all make the flasher click, but that's it. From what I've read I'd have to guess that the wires going to the solenoid have broken along the way, or corroded enough to not get enough power to the solenoid. Does that sound right? Or am I missing something? Tried 3 Head light switches, all did the same stuff, turns on the high beam light on the gauge, but there is no power to the connector where it connects to the head light. Again a broken/corroded wire? 3 Turn signal switches, no power to either lights or gauge lights. My hazards work great. Brake lights work. Any suggestions? Is there a flow chart for troubleshooting of sorts to help diagnose these problems for someone like me who doesn't have the best grasp on how this all works? Anybody near eau Claire WI wanna give me a hand in exchange for some beer?

So the car was rear-ended at some point in its life. And the person who repaired it did not want to do it right (that's why my taillights are goofy if you were wondering). I also think they replaced the thin metal panel the interior plastics mount to on the passenger side with a new one, because there are weird welds and a copious amount of seam sealer around it. Another bright idea that they had was to fill the area between the thin metal panel that was replaced with a TON of insulating spray foam, and in doing so encased the part of the wiring harness that runs back to the taillights inside of the foam. I tried to yank on it first, didn't budge, couldn't even feel the tension on the other end of the harness. I sprayed acetone and brake cleaner on a chunk that I peeled of off the shock tower and it didn't dissolve it at all. One thing they tried to do was add connectors to the harness down where it goes into the foam by the rocker, what they failed to do was leave enough room to actually plug stuff back in. I cant get my hands in there enough to plug what I had back in. So splicing my 71' harness and connecting it to the 72' harness that's in the foam isn't an option, plus the rear of the harness is already pretty horrible and spliced on the original harness. So Hybridz, any suggestions on how to get the foam out of there/ get the new harness ran in there short of cutting out that panel? I plan to do it right eventually, but I'd really like to get it running by the end of summer and I don't want this to be a project that means I can't drive it before the Wisconsin winter sneaks up on me. I ended up swapping to my 71' dash and harness last night after work and for now I just have the rear section of harness running on the outside of the wheel well.

My second Z(First pic), a 71' with great interior and most importantly, a prefect wiring harness to swap into the 72'. My biggest regret with my cars so far was getting rid of this one. It had a lot of cool history behind it. It was owned and raced by a doctor on the east coast. He took it to Panama in the winters to race. It was relatively stock other than bigger sway bars. My 3rd z, a 78'. I bought it for less than I could flip the wheels for and I figured I could use more parts. Car is now resting (for now) in a farm in North Dakota. Hopefully be a drift car some day. Wheels are now on a fb rx7 set of offset work equip 02's.

Hey Hybridz, been browsing for about 4.5 years after seeing some videos on Youtube of sbc swapped Z's. I'm 22 in college and this is my first major car related project. My first Z, 72'. Bought her right before I left for Army basic training in July 14'. Bought it without brakes, a cut, spliced and mangled wiring harness, and it was missing the panel over the wiper motor and the body panels under the front bumper. I was told they were still getting paint, but when I called the paint shop they said they never had them, when I went back to the previous owners place I was told he left the country. Over the last 4 years not much has been done other than saving money and "fixing" the brakes. Short term goal is to get it running again. Fall of 15' the wiring harness caught on fire while driving and it hasn't ran since. Hopefully by the end of summer 18' I'd like to get it running, refresh the suspension, and upgrade the brakes. Long term goal is an LS swap that can be a fun summer daily. I'll probably post just big updates on Instagram, If you want to follow I'm @nick.steffens.s30

Well, I fell in love with the white Common Snapper Z car, and after looking through the gallery tab in their website I saw a picture of the white Z with 5 lug hubs and Brembo's. The picture has a label under it that says z33 caliper and rotor. Does anybody know if they sell a kit for a brake/hub swap? I haven't seen much on these guys on the forum, and a lot of the info I have found about them leads to dead links. They also have some really nice looking Coilovers, but they are very expensive. Anybody from the states work with them before? How was shipping times and prices? How was customer service? Thanks guys, Nick

I've been looking into the Japan racing wheels as well, are you going with the 8 spoke style? When they come in I'd appreciate it if you commented on the quality of the finish and your initial impressions. They have two bolt patterns cut into them, I don't want to derail your thread, but have you or anybody in the community heard of that making the wheels less durable? Thanks, Nick

This is definitely not for everybody, but a very cool build in progress with lots of carbon fiber.

Looking to price out a set of Work Equip 02's. I bought the car at an auction for some interior and suspension stuff and it came with these wheels. One has some curb rash, I'll add a picture of how bad that is when I get a chance. I've seen some on ebay from 800-1000, but I don't know if they are selling at that price. Any advice would be great, Thanks guys!

Thanks for the info NewZed, I had figured that's how it worked, but I didn't want to drop 600 bucks on a set of brakes that I would eventually have to swap out. And thank you NeverDone, I'm a 4 hour drive from my car and any of my manuals. so the description of how the power got delivered was helpful, I'll be sure to reread the sticky's a few more times.

I should have been more specific when I said I was getting off topic. I was just trying to see if I was understanding that post on the sticky correctly when asking about the 280z with a long nose r200. I'm still interested in the q45's short nose, but it seems like there is a lot more involved in it, and with my limited knowledge on this, I might need to reconsider. To my previous post, if I did swap the 280z long nose and it's companion flange and stub axle, would I then be in the market for 280z brakes? I just want to make sure I'm understanding the basics of this before I get too deep down the rabbit hole.

Sorta off topic, but I just want to clarify something on the first post in this sticky, Jmortensen gives a list of things to do to put a long nose r200 into a 72-73 240z 1. mustache bar from 280Z with R200 2. yoke (companion flange) from 280Z with R200 3. rear cover from 280Z or ZX with R200 4. side stub shafts from 280Z or ZX with R200 to bolt up to stock halfshafts Of these components Diff Output Flange>>>Axles>>>Companion Flange>>>Stub Axle>>>Tires, the only parts you'd need from a 280z with a long nose r200 would be the companion flange and stub shafts/axles? And because the stub axles are being changed, brake upgrades for a 240 would no longer fit, and I'd need 280z stuff, assuming I sourced the stub axles from a 280z?

I'm not sure if this belongs in the drive-train or brakes section, but with black Friday coming up I thought I'd throw it here since It gets more views, MODS feel free to move it. I'm new to IRS suspension and I'm really having trouble wrapping my head around how a diff swap will affect the car. I've read the FAQ's and I think a q45 diff is the way I want to go. As I said I'm having trouble visualizing how this all goes together, is there a picture or some kind of diagram with all the components like the half shafts and companion flange? and all that other stuff and how it all connects? my biggest question is will it affect my brakes? I want to get set from silverminemotors if they have a black Friday sale, but I'm worried that a diff swap would change the hub, or something to make the brakes no longer fit. I'm sorry that this is a probably a pretty silly question, but there's a lot of new terms I don't know, and its hard for me to understand it in word form. I get the difference between the short and long nose diffs and how they are mounted, but everything beyond that confuses me. 1. Is there a diagram or laid out and labeled image of how the q45 or similar diff connects to the 240z stuff? 2. Would a q45 swap affect my aftermarket brake choices? Thanks Guys!

I don't think there is anything different other than very minor styling differences. I was already looking for wheels around that size and thought I'd give these a try. Did you see in the description of the item, at the very bottom it says "Import duties, taxes, and charges are not included in the item price or shipping cost. These charges are the buyer's responsibility." Is this normal when buying from other countries? I'm new to this.