jkube

I'm about to do a similar turbo upgrade to my N/A motor. I'm currently using an 83 N/A motor with an N42 head, and 2mm steel head gasket and have just installed FI system onto it (Was running '72 240 carbs before) I have a Walbro 255 ltr/hr fuel pump, AN6 lines & Megasquirt installed and running. Its sort of tuned, but I want to add a sump to the bottom of the gas tank before finalizing the tuning Running with turbo injectors installed already, seems to idle fine. It has lots more pull then the carbs. For ignition control I'm planning on switching to the Crane XR3000 with the add on package they have for boost retard control. For the turbo, I picked-up a 300zx (single) turbo, had it rebuilt and had to have the cooler side snail reclocked to fit under the intake. I suspect with the N/A motor setup, I'll have to dial in a lot of ignition retard, keep the boost reasonable and install an I/C to keep it from blowing up.

I've always gotten my panels from Zedd Findings. Never any problems with shipping or quality You should expect to have to trim of some excess materials from the aftermarket pieces. There have been some cars that I've worked on when I am thankful for the excess material. Web site for Zedd Findings - http://www.datsunzparts.com/

Hey guys, I've put in the Retrofit in to 2 zcars. No problems or complaints. I sent the inner carrier casing to Retrofit to have the kit installed. Did all the disassembly and assembly myself. Seemed pretty easy.

I've rstored 6 zcars in my life ( We're talking complete floor, frame rails and rockers and exterior body panels) I've always used oxy-acetelane because I can use it to cut, loosen, and weld. I have never had any problems with weld breakage and all my cars were taken to lapping days. However it is more time consuming to prevent warpage. I will weld only 1/2" welds and cool with a wet rag. Criss-crossing along the length reduces warpage too. and if the panel gets really bad I beat it flat with a hammer and dolly before continuing. I make sure that I eventually fill the entire length with weld so that the body filler doesnt crack. The other thing I like is when grinding the welds its a lot easier to get a good finiish. I think because it's softer then a Mig weld.

Thought I should post this one for those of you who will be megasquirting your zcars. DONT hook the "switched" 12v power source to any of the alternator/regulator wires like I did. It seemed like an easy spot to hook up to, but all my ECU reset problems have been because I tapped the into the switched power there. Just as a whim tonite I thought I would find another 12v source (battery direct) and instantly all my reset problems went away. So now all I have to do is find an easy point in the harness to tap into a 12v switched source.

Iv'e installed the Retrofit Limited slip kit into both my car and my uncle's 240z. Both differentials have settled in now. On my car the setup "loosened off" a bit because the diff gears are very worn. It still locks both rear wheels but the breakout force (car up on jackstands) is less. Actually this is a better setup for wet road conditions because there is less understeer going into a corner. During the winter I'll add some shims to adjust the breakout force a little higher. My uncles diff has stayed with a higher breakout force because his diff was in better condition to begin with. He's thrashed his more than I have and its still going well, with no problems. I believe you should be able to use this on your V8 project. This part doesnt appear to be the weak link in the drivetrain system. But you can ask Retrofit yourself about this. Retrofit Limited Slip PMB 158, 236 S. 3rd St. Montrose, CO 81401 1.970.596.4135 email: limitedslip@hotmail.com

Can you give some more info on your setup so we can help you figure this out - Tire type sizes, pressures, condition - are they worn & old or new ? - Toe in settings in front. - Did you lower the car and not check toe-in afterwards? - Ride height for front/rear does the car seem to sit level front to rear? - Shock settings for front/rear. how many turns are they set too? - Do you have stock, worn or new urethene bushings? - What condition are the balljoints, tierods, steering rack. - New or older? Some of the symptoms you describe seem to be from the last item - balljoints, tierods and steering rack condition. Also is the understeer the same in both directions, or is it only bad one way and not in the other direction?

The kit took about 8 days to arrive by courier. It took about another week to build up to the point of being ready to install into the car. Send me PM when your ready and I'll package up the extra bits in numbered bags for you. I usually visit a relative that lives near Port Severn so I can drop the stuff off to you.

Hey Datsunlover I got your PM a while ago, but havent had time to answer back, my apologies. I still have to add up the cost for the MS in Canadian dollars. The problem is that I;m building 2 of them. 1 for me and another for my uncles 240z. I bought the "Kit" from Megasquirt, and all the other pieces from Neutron electonics in Guelph. If you decide to do MS, send me a PM because I had to buy 5 sets of all the bits, so I have extra. I think this an approx CDN $ cost of all I bought $100 MS kit (PC board, ECU Map sensor and FET driver and Relay PCB) $50 (resistors, diodes connectors, box, etc for MS) $40 Relay board components $150 Adj. fuel pressure regulator $250 New Walbro fuel pump 255 ltr/hr $50 High pressure fuel lines and fittings $30 Automotive grade electrical wire ( 18 and 16 gage multicolour) I already had the injection manifold stuff from the 280zx motor I bought. $40 Aluminum fuel rail $30 Intake filter, pressure gage $30 Intake air temp sensor $30 TPS - Came with used throttle body ( 60mm) I'm still using the 240z fuel tank but want to modify it in the spring to add a sump to the bottom. Go to my personnal page. I have some pics there.

I bought a 60mm throttle body from a '91 240sx and found that the TPS is variable voltage type. The TPS that comes on the 280 zx will not work properly with Megasquirt because it has "Switched" type contacts. This TPS fits on the 280zx throttle bodies too, so it can be used for a Megasquirt installation. Just thought I would post this info for potential Megasquirt users. '72 240z, L28 N/A, Fuel injected, Megasquirted, headers, 2.5" exhaust, racer brown cam, Retrofit LSD, 3.54 ratio R200, custom sway bars, custom race springs, bump steer adjusted, custom race seats,

Bastaad525, I would also reccomend to first change the all the bushings to poly bushings or in a couple of spots- aluminum. Just this change alone will improve the response in steering and make tossing the car around a complete joy (and addiction!!!). The parts that can be made from aluminum instead of poly is the steering coupling and the front tension/compression rod coupling to the frame. The next thing would be to put on larger sway bars. probably 1-1/8" on front and 7/8" on the rear. This will prevent body roll. If you have some speed shop fabricating contacts, the bars can be made from "Stress-proof" bar. Use rod ends to hookup to the bar (drill holes into the bar near the ends) and use the poly bushings at the control arm end. Lastly, redo the bump steer on the front end. This is best done by removing the front lower control arms, redrilling the mounting holes in the cross brace approx 3/4" above the existing ones, welding in some washers to beef up the bolt hole area and reinstalling the control arms. Once again though this would better be done by a shop in your area. Doing this kind of work in your apartment area is not impossible, just not very much fun. I did all the work mentioned above on my car, and when I installed strut bars on both front and rear, I wasnt sure if I noticed any difference. I really tried to find justification in buying the bars, but quite honestly I couldnt tell the difference, even on the track. The biggest noticable difference came from the poly bushings and sway bars. Go with those pieces first. The bump steer changes improved high speed stabilty on the highway, you dont have to do this but it does help.

If youve been reading my posts about my recent problems with my Megasuirt ECU resetting, I just wanted to post some new developments. I read on an SDS web site that that Taylor" wires cannot be used with their system. Apparently thse wires create too much EMI/EMC noise and interferes with a clean signal to the ECU. So I thought that might be my problem because that's the wire type I have on my car. Sure enough when I changed the wires to an old set I had. The ECU reset problems all but dissapeared. I still noticed ECU resetting at much higher RPMs but at least now I know for sure what I must do. So if you guys are noticing that your Megasquirt appears to be shutting down momentarily, take a close look at what type of wires you have. I'm told that NGK or Nology wires are most recomended for this kind of install.

Yes thanks xander. I tried this trick as well and it made no diference to the problem. I was really surprised and dissapointed. I'm going to try the HEI setup next and if this doesnt work I'll move on to Perry Harrington's new isolation circuit setup.

Boyd, Did you get your MS to recieve a clean signal from the coil? I've been having having a #@#%^ of time trying to get the car to do more than judt idle. Seems just as I step on the throttle the MS signal resets. I'm going to either put together an HEI setup or go with Perry Harringtons setup. Send me an email on your progress

Update on my Megasquirt install. I'm having troubles with the ECU resetting on the clock. It keeps shutting down when I give the the slightest hint of acceleration. I've tried the shielded line from coil (-) to the tach input of the relay board, changed the "ED" cap value, installed the "Dave" cap, rerouted the XG1 to X11 to seprate ground. etc, etc etc. But no luck the ECU is resetting like crazy. Thoughts are now to ways of isolating the ECU tach wire from the coil ignition line because the beleif is that there is such a high voltage ignition spike coming back through the line that its tripping the ECU. I'm going to try the HEI setup and also a new circuit design just created by Perry Harrington. Has anybody gone through this yet ??. Please drop me a line with your experiences on this. 72 240z with 2.8 N/A, 82 dizzy, 82 FI intake, MSD blaster 2 coil. Megasquirt Ver 2.2

I spoke with a couple of mechanical engineers about why the bars would break and the reply was that if the nuts have loosened slightly then the diff will begin to move in the holes of the bar. Once that begins the the holes become oval from the beating they take until the bar snaps from the "Shock" load of dumping the clutch. They say to make sure to torque the nuts to the recommended setting.

I finally got my car to run on megasuirt last night. There was a little frustration at first when it didnt fire immediately. I thought the problem was that I had used the + coil connection to trigger the ECU. So I switched to the - side of the coil and the car started immediately but only on 1 cylinder. What I forgot to do was have the injectors checked before installing them. They came with the 280zx intake manifold that I bought used from the junk yard. So after tapping them "Gently" with a hammer they all began to work. Then the car flooded itself. Of course...because I had set the injection time to dump way too much fuel in the engine. I disconnected the megasquirt completely and turned over the engine on the starter. Much to my surprise the engine fired and ran for a couple of minutes!!! When I plugged the Megasquirt back in the engine started imediately and idled very well. Now I am ready to go and fine tune the engine. I'll post some pics after I get things tidied up a bit. 72 240z c/w 2.8 N/A, headers, racer brown 325 cam, ZX dizzy, 5 speed, Retrofit LSD 3.54 ratio, **NEW- EFI setup with 280zx N/A intake and injectors***

Bastaad525, the reason the fuse is getting hot and your lights are going out is that the clips that hold the fuse are getting weak from old age. The way that Datsun ( er.. Nissan) attached the wire to the clip (using a rivet) creates a high resistance to electrical flow. Over time as the connection loosens the resistance to flow increases and the part gets even hotter and the hotter its gets the losser it gets (one big viscious spiral) I would suggest thinking about putting this fix higher up on the prioty list. You can still buy new fuse boxes from Nissan or do what I did and rework the fuse box to change just the clip. Its a bit of bench work, all I did was drill out the rivet used to hold the wire to the fuse clip, cut out the fuse clip and surrounding plastic with a dremel. Then graft in a fuse clip that can be bought from NAPA. I used 2 part 5 min epaoxy to "Glue" the new fuse clip in place. The new clip has screw terminals to reattach the wires leads. Since Ive done this I've had no problems with the fuse overheating.

I might be able to provide some of the details for the install as well. I'm just finishing up a megasquirt ver2 which is going into a 72 240z N/A. Just waiting for delivery of the injector resistors before I tried to start the car. There are some pictures from a couple of weeks ago in my personal album, and would be happy to share some of the problems I've encountered throughout the install. The Megasquirt site made making the boards very easy. All my difficulties have come from wire loom creation and sensor choices. This has caused some long nights trying to debug the system. CAR SPECS - '72 240z, L28 N/A motor, N42 head, headers, Racer Brown 325 cam, 280ZX electronic dizzy, Stock tach (runs off + power). Fuel injection manifold is from 280zx N/A motor. 280zx N/A stock injectors, MAF his not being used, Coolant sensor is 280zx, IAT is GM - Corvette ZR1, TPS is GM 3 wire unit. EGO is GM single wire.

It all depends on how well you can judge the distance to a parking curb. If you can keep the car away from the curbs "ALL THE TIME" when parking then buy the fiberglass dam. If you still have trouble judging how long the nose of the car is...buy the flexible dam.

Here are a couple of pics from my rear quarter replacement. Its quite a lengthy and invloved process to do this type of repair. Don't tackle it yourself unless your good with welding equipment. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&si=jkube&page=3&sort=2&perpage=12&password=&ppuser=&stype=1 If you are still wanting to tackle this job send me an email and I'll write out the steps for you.

Does any one know what the "Hold" amps are for the stock 280zx injectors. Is it 2 amps or 1 amp I know that the injector resistance is about 2.7 ohms, but need to know what the amp draw is. Please help

Call Brantford Nissan in Ontario Canada. 519-756-6100 Talk to Rick I think he still has some in stock.

ARP has some wheel studs for a Camaro. The size is about 2" long has .59 knurl on it. they fit well into the zcar. Thread pitch is different so you have buy new wheel nuts Sorry but I dont have the packages any more so I cant give you the part number.

Here's a few pics of the Fuel injection install. Megasquirt will handle the fuel and a 280zx electronic distributor will handle spark. I've got a few more things to install.. fuel pump and regulator (when they arrive) air intake filter and a couple of sensor connectors. Since the pics were taken the open ports on the intake have been blocked off, and the relay board has been fully wired. I've been working on an adapter to install a TPS from a late model Chev. That will give a linear voltage increase rather than the Nissan's "switch" type activation. Wire loom and MAP sensor tubing location. Also "D" shape fuel rail and location of pressure gage Air intake pic. Air intake sensor is located in the first port in the rubber elbow. A cone type filter still needs to be installed Relay board location. The connector is the DB37 that runs to the main ECU in the passenger compartment Exhaust gas sensor location in the header. There is another one further downstream where the collector merges into one. I'll try that postion later to see if it makes any difference