jkube

Hey guys, I'm just going through and wiring up my Megasquirt on my 240z (will now have F. I. ) You didnt have to go up in wire sizes for the ground wires. Remember the smaller wire wire size will still be the weakest link in the system, so increasing it in size will do nothing. Megasquirt suggests 20ga all the way through except for the Injector banks Use the 16 ga for the Injector bank wiring but only because you have to split the wire between pins 32 & 33, and 34 & 35. I'll try to get some pics of my setup in the next couple days.

If youre talking about the electrical connectors on the injectors, I can tell you that Nissan has them avalaible. I just bought 6 of them for my F.I. conversion that I'm doing on my 240z. Apparently they have stock because of the recall situation with the older 300zx models. They were reworking the fuel system in those cars because of a fire hazard. Also MSD has them for sale. Part # MSD-2400. They fit the Nissan injectors.

Boyd, I did a search on the Megasquirt site and was able to confirm that 1,2,3 is connected to bank 1 and 4,5,6 is on bank 2. It appears there a few people hooking up Megasquirt to their Z's. I hope to be ready to fire up this weekend, as long as my fuel pump arrives in time. A few oither people have commented on the last pair of injectors being on their own resistor pack. Best I can figure is that the first 4 are common to a 4 cylinder car that Nissan builds for Japan, and then they just add the additional pack for the 6 cylinder models. Thanks again

Boyd, I need your help to wire my Megasquirt to the injectors. The installation guide only show 4 injectors for banks 1 and 2. Which injectors on the L28 do you connect to bank 1 and which to bank 2? Best I can figure is that with the 1,5.3,6,2,4 firing order that 1,2,3 should be on bank 1 and 4,5,6 should be on bank 2. Can you confirn if I have it right? 72 240z with an L28 NA motor

I ran into the same problem, and found an adapter from Earl's fittings that adapted the 240z brake line ( hard line) to the 280zx caliper. I used the steel brake flex line that was on the original setup. If you need the Earl's # just let me know.

Has anyone put an '89 300zx turbo onto a L28 motor?? I noticed when doing a trial fit that the cold side air out will point straight up and into the bottom of the intake and I wont have enough clearance to route the piping to the IC I know that the cold side plenum can be rotated so it will point outwards more, but it looks like the wastegate actuator position will change too drastically to be able to open the wastegate arm. Anybody have some experience on how to work around this?? '72 240z L28 N/A motor, FI

I managed to finish install of the R200 3.54 diff with the Retrofit Limited slip kit and the modified R180 mustache bar. After an easy trip around the block to make sure none of the bolts were loose. I dumped the clutch at 4000 rpm to see if I could break the mustache bar ( I have NA L28 with Racer Brown 325 cam and headers..I know...not really a ton-o-power!!) So far after several starts like that the bar is still in place and there are no clunks or signs of failure. I did have some fun attempting some drifts in the nearby parking lot!! Now I just need some more power

I've read through the posts about your problem, and I wonder since you are getting oil in all of the cylinders that it would be real wierd for all 6 seals or rings to be bad at once. And there is no "Passage" through all the cylinders where if one cylinder is bad that it would contaminate all the other cylinders. My thought is there must be another "Common" entry point for the oil. How about the vent tube from the crankcase. Doesnt it feed into the intake plenum? Are you able to check the inside of the manifold for oil contamination? If you find oil in there then you might have one cylinder with blowby (pressurizing the crank case and blowing oil into the intake)or (more hopefully) a plugged PCV valve. I had a 85 mustang that blew an oil ring and the oil was litterly pouring out the valve cover vent and into the intake breather. I couldnt keep the plugs from fouling. On an 85 Capri Turbo I had it blew the graphite seal on the turbo exhaust side and there was a huge cloud of blue oil smoke coming out the tail pipe, but only when the turbo spooled up. I removed the turbo rerouted the exhaust and the motor ran fine ( but much slower) Just some thing other things to ponder before you strip the motor.

I put the Crane XR3000 system with the Blaster coil and no balast resistor (bypassed) . It was very easy to do and relatively cheap. The performance of the car is awesome with it in. And the best part is now I dont have to reset the points every week. A couple of cautions though. If you use a blaster coil dont use the XR700 ignition set. Its only for use with the balast resistor. so buy the XR3000. Also if you buy the "Regular" blaster coil (IE not epoxy sealed) make sure you mount the coil up and down ( not sideways). The MSD coil is not sealed and the fluid inside will leak out and the coil will be ruined (NO spark). Takes about 2000 miles or 2 months (whichever comes first) for this happen.

They make the components that will fit into the gear carrier of the R200 diffs I have an email address - limitedslip@hotmail.com. Ask for Carlton. You will probably want to take out the gear carrier and remove the big crown gear. This will save on shipping costs. They will install the LSD component into your gear carrier and send it back. Then you can reinstall the crown gear and then install this assembly back into the housing. Its not all that difficult. Nice thing is it opens up the choices of ratios that you can use.

I'm just going through the same upgrade with my uncles zcar and my zcar...L28 Turbo motor with 5speed trans. I decided to use a 3.54 open and purchase a Limited slip kit from Retrofit ($300 plus $50 for them to install) and set the motors for low/mid range torque.

I looked through some Metal heat treating books and read that if you cool spring steel very slowly (IE Wrap it in heat resistant material to keep the heat in for as long as possible) then the steel is not badly affected. By no means should any water or oil be used to cool the metal. This will cause the spring steel to become brittle and breakage will occur. Iv'e used this technique to make my own sway bars. The material used for this is called"Stress Proof"

I just received back the Differential carrier from Retrofit (Colorado). It appears to be similar to the Phantom Grip but has some kind of lining on the surfaces that contact the gears. This is reported to be what makes the transition from "Slip" to "Grip" much better than Phantom Grip and also extends the life of the unit. If any one wants more info I can provide Retrofit's phone # and address. Here is a pic

Ok here are the first pics of the bentup R180 bar The first one is the front view. the R200 bar is below the R180. Grey line on the R180 is where I heated and bent the bar. The second is the top view

Thanks for the offer, But its too late, I'm almost done with the install. Things actually worked out better than expected. Turns out that the R200 bar that I compared the width to is actually too wide to fit the chassis bolts. Seems it's a bit twisted and will need to be straightened out to fit my uncles car. My modified bar fits perfect. I'm having trouble downloading pics to my home computer so I'll try my computer at work tomorrow.

Ok, The bar that I was told would fit the R200 diff turns out in fact to be an R180 bar. I guess I got hosed on that one. Since I couldnt sleep because of this I went out to the garage and compared my Uncle's R200 bar with this R180 bar. I spent all night to figure out what to do now. Heres what I think will work. I placed one bar over the other and found that if I heated ( And cooled slowly) and bent the outer portions of the R180 bar (about 6" from the centre line out ) the R180 could be made to look like the R200. The next problem is that the bar mounting posts about 1/4" too narrow to fit on the bolts on the chassis. So I will make eccentric bushings to replace the steel bushings that came in the Urethane kit. This will move the mounting holes out just enough to fit the chassis bolts. I found that the Diff holes can easliy be milled out instead of using a drill. I'll try to post some pictures showing the 2 bars (with the new bends on the R180)

Ive installed an XR3000 into my 72 zcar. It was easy to install and to setup. The bracket does look mickey mouse at first, but I've had no problems whatsoever. Dont go with the XR700 cause it can only handle low output (1.4-1.6 ohms) 240z coils. It requires that the resistor balast stays in the electrical circuit. Buy the XR3000 cause it's designed to handle the higher voltage Blaster 2 coils and 280z coils. (.6-1.2 ohms)

Thanks for the warnings. Took your advice and found a bar. It appears to be an R200 bar but the mounting holes for the diff fit the R180 and not the R200. It does have the the kink in the middle like the R200 bar my uncle's got on his car, but the holes are different. Did Nissan have an interm design? (R200 shape but R180 holes)??

I read the comments about the Phanton grip LSD setup. Has anyone heard of Retrofit out of Colorado? I just sent 2 open diffs to them to have their version of Limited slip installed. Cost is $350 ea. I havent got the units back yet but I was told that this setup is more like the Nissan setup (using clutch plates) and some kind of friction material rather than metal to metal contact. I also dont know yet if it would be a 1 way or 2 way design?

I'm just finishing off 2 MS Ver 2 boards as well. One is going into my N/A 240z (with L28 F.I. motor and 280zx dizzy) and the other will go into my uncles 240z (soon to be L28 Turbo motor). My uncles car currently has the Crane XR3000 ignition box and I wanted to use the MS to control the fuel and the crane box to control spark. Will the Crane box work on the turbo setup

Has anyone even considered using an '87-'88 turbo (T25) on an L28 N/A motor? I have a turbo available to me, but I suspect that its going to be just to small to do any good. I dont mind if I can improve the bottom end & mid range on my N/A motor, but I just dont know if its worth it!??. Any comments?

I'm having difficulties finding mustache bars up here in Canada so I can do the R200 conversion on 2 zcars. Have only been able to find 1 (need 2). Seller wants $100 USD. Sounds like too much for this Has anyone tried to fab one up? Please send me your ideas , and I'll try to make one up and post the results.

I am currently building the Megasquirt FI board to ultimately do what you are doing. My zcar is currently N/A (Carbed) but the intent is to inject it first, then turbo it. I have the Crane XR 3000 for ignition control. All it seems to provide is the optical sensor to replace the points and an ignition control box. The ignition advance still seems to be from the Dizzy. I've been told that as long as the compression ratio is kept to about 8.5:1 and you use premium fuel (94 octane) (along with about a hundred other things to watch for like boost level and air intake temp) then all should be well. It might be a good thing to add some form of manual boost control as well.