jkube

Its been a while since I've used this program, but I think you will Find the PC configurator program is actually the "Megasquirt" program, not the name of the program. You can get to it on the main page of the Bowing & Grippo web site: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

I have the same pump on my 240z ( N/A with megasquirt). My pump did the same thing and I discovered that I had the aftermarket FPR hooked up wrong. I had placed it on the fuel line feeding the injectors, and the proper placement is on the return line. The FPR was squeezing down the main fuel line as I drove the car, but then would release when I shut the car off and restarted. The car would always run fine at idle and the pump wouldnt scream. It seems these pumps will scream like that when the main line is pinched or squeezed down. It will also do that when it cant pick up fuel from the tank. So if you have a stock tank, and the fuel is low, you can get the same result because the fuel is sloshing in the tank and the pump cant pick it up.

There is a base setting on the Megasquirt, but I found it hardly drivable. You will have to tune it "somewhat" to get it drivable. Then if you get that far, you may as well finish tuning it yourself, cause that supposed to be part of the enjoyment.. isnt it?

If it helps I used the Manual Trans one. It worked no problems. I know Megaquirt reqiures that you to calibrate the TPS anyways, so the only units that cause a problem are the "Switching" type from the 280zx.

You didnt mention if you have MS or MSS, but I'm sure you dont have the wiring correct. I am using MS and have the the injectors connected so that cylinders 1, 2, 3 are on one splice and 4,5,6 are on another. This allows a setup for "alternating" injection. http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Mainpage_lethalzs.html

Let me check my "Inventory " at home tonight. I might have some extras that you can have. I'll get back to you tonight. http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Mainpage_lethalzs.html

I was looking at this same intercooler for my 240z turbo project. From what I can figure it should fit well in the area in front of the rad. Keep us posted if you decide to buy it. http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Mainpage_lethalzs.html

Hi, I've just finished installing floors in a 280z and have done a few 240's. The only difference with the floor pans is the support rail underneath. The 280z rails are quite a bit deeper. If you are willing, there should be a way to modify the ends so that it meets with the engine bay frames. http://www.execulink.com/~JKUBE/Mainpage_lethalzs.html

We have a couple of zcar racers up here, and most of these guys have experienced seperation of the dampers (even NEW ones) The thought here is that the higher RPMs they are turning are causing the failures. http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Mainpage_lethalzs.html

If I remember correctly for the basic MS you can set the EGO parameters to shut it off completely, allowing for better tuning. I think there is a paragraph about this in the Megamanual Should be the same for MSS I guess you could set the software to shut the EGO off and just not install a sensor. http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Mainpage_lethalzs.html

Hi, Saw your pics of the rocker install. Nice work. I have had to do 3 z's in the same manner. Just a word of caution. The aftermarket rockers sometimes dont seem to sit quite right W.R.T. the door skin. It seems the rocker sometimes sits inwards a bit, so then the surface f the door skin looks to sit proud of the rocker. Double check the rocker postion before final welding. If you find the rocker doesnt sit at the same level as the door skin you may have to "Caress" the inner rocker panel to move the rocker outwards. Also do a check with the the door rubber in place when you trial fit. The door rubber can throw the fit off. http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Mainpage_lethalzs.html

Hey. I had the same problem. Fixed it when I re-installed those black bump rubbers on the sides of the fenders. They sit between the inner lip and hood. Turns out the hood was shaking side to side over bumps enough to release the hood latch.

If your talking about the 280zx TPS. the answer would be - No, you cant use it. Megasquirt need a varying resistor type of TPS whereas the stock unit is like an on/off switch. I found the best one to use is from the 24SX. Only needs a small adapter bracket and it works well .

NICE JOB !! Very impressive work.

I've been using the Walbro 255 ltr pump in both the N/A 240 and turbo 280 with no fuel feed problems. For mounting on ther 280z I secured the pump to the same bracket as the stock location and have the pump oriented vertically. For the 240z I fabbed a similar bracket than the 280z and mounted the pump in a horizontal postion Both work equally well.

Thats really odd, because I have a 300zx (Z31) turbo ready to go into my 240z and the wastegate valve is on the body , not on the down pipe. The downpipe I have is a 45 deg unit as well. Cant remember what year z31 its from. Are you going to install it into a 280zx or 240z? It seems to me that if you can physically get it to fit into the car, you should be good to go.

Just a thought, but maybe since the coolant temp isnt being monitored, could the ECU think the car is always stone cold, and be dumping a ton of fuel into the motor?

I have the alternate to Phantom grip ( called Retrofit) installed in my 240 N/A and 280 Turbo. Its very similar to phantom grip unit but has some kind of friction coating where the device contacts the gears. Sort of like a clutch disc material. I believe the Phantom grip unit doesnt have this. The Retrofit units operate in both cars very well. Nice smooth activation, and seems to be holding the break-out force over the year that they have been installed. I like the fact that when it rains on a lapping day I dont have huge understeer/oversteer problems on the corners. and yet when its dry the unit keeps both tires driving the power without slip. I used to change the diffs over from open to welded depending on the weather conditions,. I'm getting to old for that now.

I bought the 3 pc rear spoiler from him, and no problems. He delivered on time (actually I picked up from him) quality is good, but I always expect to do a little trimming fo fit.

Hey Datsunlover, This might be a little late for your plans, but I am running a 2.5" exhaust ( 3" at the bends) with a Canadian Tire "Raptor" muffler. You may laugh but I've found it to be a very good flowing muffler. Reasonably quiet too!!. Motor runs strong to about 6500 RPMs and at no time does it feel like the exhaust system is holding it back. Nice part is the cost is about $39 CDN and its been on the car for about 8 years ( summer driving, of course)

Keep us informed on how it works out. I have an N/A L28 thats getting a turbo in it this spring. The only difference is that I have Megasquirt to control fuel and Crane ignition with boost timing retard control running the ignition.

I did the same, used "alternating" and grouped 123 & 456. Seems to work great for me on both cars. As for resistors, the 240 N/A car has the ohmite resistors as called for in MS write up. I placed them on the passenger side shock tower. Right now they are exposed to engine bay. In the spring I'll probably enclose them. When I did the 280 turbo I used the resistor pack that came with the 280z. Its located near the clutch slave. Thats where I left it. Both cars run well and there has not been any problems with the MS components running hot.

I think what JohnC is saying is that moving the pivot point will correct the bumpsteer problem these cars have, even if you dont lower the car you'll notice a difference on the highway. Over bumps and in cross winds the car will track better. I agree with JohnC that you should do it since your into fixing the pivot hole anyways. Dropping off the cross member while supporting the motor works well. That way you can work on the bench to drill in the new holes and weld in some new spacer washers. Picture: http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Brians240z/Dec02pics/Image02.jpg http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Brians240z/Dec02pics/Image04.jpg What I do is redrill 5/8" dia holes exactly 3/4" above ( Vertically straight up from) the existing holes. File the holes out a bit to allow the bolts to pass through. I think the bolts are just a bit bigger in diameter than 5/8" Then chisel off the old spacer washers form the existing holes, and clean the burrs off the remaining spot welds. Next get some new washers that are for a 5/8" bolt and file them out too so the bolts will pass through. These will be the spacer washers for the new holes. The control arms will have to be ground down around the area where the pivot bolt passes through. This is because now that the pivot point is moved up the arm will come into contact with the cross member. If you dont understand, dont worry you'll see what I mean when you try to pre-assemble the 2 parts together. So if you have been able to get the preassembly finished and there is no interference when moving the control arm up and down, you can install the new spacer washers onto the cross member and weld them to cross member. Depending on the thickness of the new washers you may have to widen the gap between the washers so the control arm can fit in. I use a heavy hammer and a 1/2" diameter bar and bang out the cross memmber a bit to widen the gap. Then it is a matter of reassembling all the parts back onto the car. The only alignment needed is to correct the toe-in.

The bump steer problem should be fixed on these cars even if you dont drop the ride height at all. What I have prefered to do is relocate the inner control arm pivot point. This requires a bit of fab work but the improvement is worth the work. I usually relocate the pivot point 3/4" higher in the cross member ( have to grind down the arms to clear the cross member) The stability of the car is improved dramatically at high speed, no more darting and weaving with the bumps in the road or crosswind, and the car remains stable during breaking and cornering.

Since you hve replaced the flex lines, also check that these lines are tightened sufficiently. What can happen is the flaring of the new flex line is not properly seated onto the steel line fitting, resulting in a "Bleed down". You may not notice fluid leaking at the connection, but look very closely and you might notice the line looks "wet" all the time.