jkube

I always thought that the 14" rims wouldnt clear the 4x4 calipers and 300zx rotors, so I too bought 15" rims I surprised myself last week when I tried it. My old 14" x 6-1/2 wide slotted rims fit over the calipers with a 10mm spacer. There was a lot of clearance around the outside, but I did notice that the rim had a slight interference to the caliper on the inner portion of the wheel, close to where the wheel mounting hub is. It looks like if the spacer were approx 20mm thick then the rims would fit well. Jeff

Hi Nigel, Is there something with the SDS that requires a correction factor to be put in place if you dont use the prescribed sensor? I have the Megasquirt installed using the 280zx coolant sensor ( Megasquirt defualt is GM sensors), and I definately had to put in a correction factor for this. Made the car run much better.

Heavy85 I see your delima. The solution I had suggested is only if you are going to replace the rockers. I can only think of this for your situation: Try to bend back the flattened flange so it looks as original as possible. You're worried about the metal cracking. that is a possibility, but I think that if does its only because the metal is getting pretty rusty and thin. For these you may to have a new section welded in, or if the metal still looks good the cracks can be welded together. Fabricate a 16 gage steel L-shaped piece about 6-8" long ( 3/4 " flanges) Use sheet metal and form it into an L-shape. Dont take preformed angle iron. It just doest seem to work right. Maybe the metal is too thick Weld it behind the rocker flange and on the floor. What this will do is give you 4 layers of metal on the flange, and also spreads out some of the load over the floor area. I've use dthis before on a race car and it worked well Its similar to a weld pad on a roll cage, where the tubes meet the floor panels. Some of the undercoating will have to be removed from the floor area so the welding can be done. Just recoate the are once its finished. You wont see the add in piece from the side of the car. I only have a picture of my zcar with the rocker off. I somehow never took a picture of the support flange that I made. http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Brians240z/Oct04pics/000_0918%20copy.JPG The piece should be postioned just under the door post. I've tried to point to the area where it goes. Anyways, hope this helps Jeff PS - Ztard- You are not wrong. The places you've picked are the same ones I've always used. The only time I use the rockers is at a lapping day when I have to change tires or do some quick work on the brakes.

Heavy85 I noticed the same thing on all the zcars I've restored. I also remember when I was a kid working at the local Datsun dealership (washing these cars) that even when they were brand new, I was told not to jack the cars up at the rockers becuase they were very weak there. Now I am restoring a few of these cars and I see there is an inner sheet metal support piece located at the door post. It it sandwiched between the inner and outer rocker panels. I have found that this panel rusts away first leaving little strength in the rocker to lift the car. What I've started doing was installing a 14ga steel metal piece ( 6" wide with flanges) as a replacement. It protudes slightly beyond the lower lip of the rocker so that a jack will contact this support piece rather than the rocker panel, and it is welded to the top of the rocker as well. This way all the wieght of the car is supported at the door post when you jack up the car If you decide to change out the rockers I would suggest taking the time to do the same. You'll be happy that you did. Jeff

Chemicalblue, I have the Megasquirt installed in an N/A 240 and into a turbo 280. The system runs very well and is very tunable. I can say that any problems I have encountered are due to my errors in assembly or workmanship. Both cars are not yet daily drivers (see previous statement) but I am building more trust with the system (or should I say my workmanship). For both cars, I've done the following mods to install a F.I. system. This would probably be the same regardless of which system you choose. 1. Electric high presure fuel pump ( Walbro 255) 2. Larger fuel lines - 3/8" for fuel - 1/2" for return 3. Fuel pressure regulator - Aeromotive 4. Intake manifold for 280z or 280zx 5. Injectors from 280zxt 6. TPS from 240sx 7. IAT sensor from corvette LT1 8. 280zx coolant sensor ( I have ohms vs temp settings for this if you need it) (*** VERY important to get this right, otherwise car will not run well***) 9. EGT sensor into the exhaust header 10. Welded on sump to bottom of 240 gas tank. Made a huge difference in acceleration when tank is 1/2 empty or less 11. 280z resistors to bring the ohms inline to specs for Megasquirt. Not using pulsewidth control I used the relay board in both cars, a 280zx ignition system for the N/A 240, and a crane ignition system for the turbo 280. Megasquirt has shown no problems picking up a signal from either of these systems. Here is a link to my web site. It has pictures of all the cars I'm working on. There are some pictures of the engine bays showing the relay boards in place. http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Mainpage_lethalzs.html Hope this helps. Jeff

Sorry to tell you this BrandenZ, I had that problem too. Its the turn signal assembly. The contacts in there are pitted from arching and have a bit of carbon on them You can actually take that switch mechanism apart and lightly sand the contacts, but it doesnt last long. The sanding takes away what little silver there was on the contact pads and the pitting and carbon comes back even quicker. Best thing to do is get a replace assembly, either new one or a good used one. Jeff

Heres how I mounted my mirrors. They were a little tough to get the center post hole in the right spot so I could tighten the centre post, but it all worked out http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Jeffs240z/Mirrorshot.jpg I bought them from a local race car shop. One that deals in open wheel cars. Jeff

Hey Datsunlover You can use 240z rear cartridges in the 280z rears too. I had to do this for my uncles Turbo car. You'll still have to make a spacer, but it looks like you were going to anyways. Call Rick Scott of Brantford Nissan. He can get you Tokico cartridges. My wife is going to the cottage next week end (Honey Harbour). I can pick them up from Rick and give them to her to bring up for you. Jeff

I had the same problem and found out that the fuse holder clip for the dash lights and rear lights are not making good contact with the fuse. The clips in the holder have weakened fover the years from heating and cooling. I tried to bend that tabs closer together to sqeeze the fuse more, but it just got so bad that I had to buy a new fuse panel. Problems solved now ( well I guess for another 30 years or so) Jeff

My theme is "Understated" with a hint of "Oh my god what was that green flash that just went by???"" So to achieve that affect: - lowered enough to only get 1 finger between the wheel lip and rubber, 15" wheels, 215-50 x15 tires with the rubber out to fender lips. - full air dam in front, 3 pc spoiler in the rear. bumpers painted to match car. - headers, 2-1/2" diameter exhaust out to a free flow exhaust, not too loud but noticable when the power is put down. -cammed for mid range, fuel injected, using Megasquirt for fuel control. Free flow air intake to get a bit of howl from the intake. electronic igntion - full race seats so you can sit real low in the car. http://www.execulink.com/~jkube/Jeffs240z/240.jpg jeff

The corroded connector might be the problem, because I think the injectors are timed to open w.r.t. coil spark. If the wiring to the ecu is one of the wires from the box on the side of the distributor, then the ECU may not know when to trigger the injectors because its not getting a signal from the coil. Seems like a cheap thing to fix. Give it a try. Jeff

I am just in the middle of doing the same thing to my 240z. I already have the fuel injection system on the car and running. - Motor is a N/A 2.8 litre motor with steel head gasket, Turbo head bolts. - Fuel injection control is Megasquirt. It has the MAP sensor (vacum thngy) already builtin. - Stock throttle body, using a TPS from a 91 240SX - Turbo injectors - Clutch is 2+2 with kevlar disc and increased pressure on pressure plate - Ignition system is Crane HI6 with timing retard control ( I think this is what you are missing on your list. An ignition system that can retard the timing as boost increases) - Oil pump is from Turbo motor - Fuel pump is Walbro 255 ltr/hr - Pressure regulator is Aeromotive -Stock turbo exhaust manifold - 300zx T28 turbo ( single turbo car type with water and oil cooling) I know that I am going to have to keep the boost down and feed lots of fuel to the motor. I am trying to gain more torque in the car rather top end HP. Hope this helps. Jeff

By any chance did you take the 12 volt switched power from any line close to the alternator. I did this with my setup and the symptoms were similar to yours. It seems there is quite a dirty signal coming back through the alternator which affects the RPM and injector pulses. Mine would idle fine but as soon as I gave some gas (RPMs) the engine would run like crap. Oddly enough there were times it would run fine. If you are suspicious that this might the reason, then find a switched line close to the fuse box. Jeff

Hope you guys can help with this, I am installing a 280zxt motor into my 240z and plan to use Megasquirt to run the fuel system. My question is where do I install the Intake air temp sensor? Do I put it into the freash air intake ( before the turbo) or into the J-pipe (before the throttle body). Seems to me it should be the j-pipe, but I am unsure of this thanks Jeff

Need your help to ID which car (or truck) that the high torque starters come from. I did a search on this and was surprized that no one has mentioned it. I mounted one of these into my z a while ago because the stock unit in the car was starting to give me problems. It was a spare from a parts car I bought. This new one has improved the starting of the engine. Now I'd like to put one into my uncle's zcar, but I cant seem to find any info as to which vehicle they came from. Does anyone know??? thanks Jeff

Sorry, This was done with fiberglass glass. That part was done well. What wasnt done is a coating over the bare metal under the spoiler . Its hard to tell when its all put back together and painted. Jeff

Heres why you dont want to mold in the spoiler Jeff

Here's my spoiler - 3 pc unit Jeff

Mike I had same problem with my MS when trying to get it setup. Your enrichment settings need some correcting, the car isnt getting any fuel after initial cranking It sounds like you have the "cranking pulsewidths" close because the car fires instantly, check your "afterstart enrichment" settings. You might want to increase the enrichment %. Increase this number until the car keeps running. A fuel pressure gage will come in handy to make sure you have correct pressure. I've been finding that some of my problems were from pressures too low and too high. But I been finding that if the pressures are close to stock ( 30 -40 PSI ) the will start. It just may not drive well Also if the car is hard to start, double check a couple of spark plugs to see if there is too much fuel (or not enough), then adjust the cranking pulse width % and after start enrichment % until you can get the car started and running. If the plugs are wet lower the % numbers and if they are dry then increase the % numbers. Keep a spare set of plugs handy too. If you flood the motor, change the plugs right away, otherwise the car will either not start at all or run like #$!@@#. You can then dry out the plugs later with fuel injection cleaner spray and use them again later Hope this helps Jeff 72 240z, L28 N/A with Fuel injection and MS, Walbro 255 lt/hr pump, Aeromotive pressure regulator, Turbo injectors.

Mike I had same problem with my MS when trying to get it setup. Your enrichment settings need some correcting, the car isnt getting any fuel after initial cranking It sounds like you have the "cranking pulsewidths" close because the car fires instantly, check your "afterstart enrichment" settings. You might want to increase the enrichment %. Increase this number until the car keeps running. A fuel pressure gage will come in handy to make sure you have correct pressure. I've been finding that some of my problems were from pressures too low and too high. But I been finding that if the pressures are close to stock ( 30 -40 PSI ) the will start. It just may not drive well Also if the car is hard to start, double check a couple of spark plugs to see if there is too much fuel (or not enough), then adjust the cranking pulse width % and after start enrichment % until you can get the car started and running. If the plugs are wet lower the % numbers and if they are dry then increase the % numbers. Keep a spare set of plugs handy too. If you flood the motor, change the plugs right away, otherwise the car will either not start at all or run like #$!@@#. You can then dry out the plugs later with fuel injection cleaner spray and use them again later Hope this helps Jeff 72 240z, L28 N/A with Fuel injection and MS, Walbro 255 lt/hr pump, Aeromotive pressure regulator, Turbo injectors.

I've bought several air dams and spoilers from "Showcars"and never had a problem with the quality. Now I cant speak about the dlivery part, cause I always have gone to his shop to pickup the parts. If any of you guys in the US want me to cooridinate a group buy, I'd be willing to do that for you !! Jeff

There is a place up here just Northwest of Toronto, Canada that makes them too. Web site - http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html Just got one for my Uncles 280z Jeff

I'm using a Dell P2 laptop with Windows 2000. Works well. Jeff 72 240z - L28 - Fuel injected - headers - racer brown cam Retrofit LSD.

I had the same problem with my 72 240z . Found the problem to be the turn signal actuator. I changed the assembly (Its 1/2 of the ignition system up by the steering wheel) and the signal worked again instantly. When I took apart the old one and studied the contacts. One set was too coroded to allow the power to pass through. jeff

I have a set of SPA formula car mirrors on both sides. Flat mirror on the drivers side and convex on the passenger side Jeff