280z4me2

Ive decided to do a solid axle conversion on the rear of my s30. Being that i have a 86 toyota 4x4, working with the 8" axles has sparked some interested. The gears options,locker/lsd options, and parts availibility make these axles super easy to find. With the addition of cheap chromoly axles shafts if pushing a ton of power, disk brake conversions are done with bolt on brackets, and the calipers share the same 10mm flare nut size as the stock s30. Not to mention the width is shorter significantly shorter then most other solid axles. Im just curious if this has been done before by someone on this board? Also curious to hear from other axle conversions and the suspension setup they used when doing it. Post detailed pictures please!!

In other words, you can make anything work with some fabbing. I would first suggest buying the weld in kit for your car. There much stronger and have the potential to look better. Second, if you use Bolt in, I would probably bolt them under the shock tower. I spent more time making 1/8" support brackets that I could have just made the shock tower cuts look good and bolted underneath.

I just added camber plates to my s30. I purchased the circle shaped ones on eBay and cut them to fit the shape of my towers. Worked out perfect. I would check the diameter of the spherical bearing to make sureyour shocks will fit. Ill try to get pictures of mine later

Is it extremely important that the 3/8 holes are tapped or is there enough room to squeeze in a nut between the plate and engine block? Accidentally stripped out one hole while threading it.

I have the JTR book for my s30 and I just made the setback plates out of 1/4" aluminum. JTR calls for 1/2". I made these because I had just enough 1/4" laying around. Will I run into issues with drive shaft angle being 1/4" off of the drawings? I am running coilovers and figured I would make aluminum spacer for the front suspension assembly to make up the extra 1/4"....

Friend of mine has access to a milling machine of some sort and has offered to drill my hubs to a 5x4.5 bolt pattern. I just need the x and y axis measurements starting from dead center. Anyone happen to have this or a good machine type drawing of the degrees so I can figure it myself?

That picture is an illusion. It was actually even with the very end of the subframe. I had to weld the rear into position. Then after cutting the Jack stand tabs I had to bend the front down and Tac it into place.

I think the previous owner just butchered the install because only one was there and it fell without the shock be unbolted..... ordered two new ones

Going to run stock brakes up front and zx disk in rear. Zx m/c with s30 booster.

Going to use 280zx rear calipers and master cylinder in my s30. I've searched and found some saying the zx came with a brake proportioning block and some say the master cylinder proportions it itself and some say you need a proportioning valve. Which one is it?

Great! Any tips on the diff swap?

The sleeves are probably 5". They definitely don't sit flush with the top of the strut tube. This is one fully assembled with the sleeve sitting in the stock spring perch location(where Cosmo Racing and a few online forums said to place it). Only reason I added the original spring top was to give the shock a little extra room to travel. What do you think?

When I dropped my front suspension I noticed a bearing fall on the ground. It seemed like it came from the top of the coil spring. After I disassembled the rest I never found another bearing. Any Idea where this went? Also, when I dropped my rear suspension, I noticed that one of the swing arms looks upside down. If this isn't normal then someone must have swapped it for a passenger side part and just flipped it over....

Got my rear end dropped and have an OBX unit I will be dropping in in place of the stock open diff in my r200. Do you guys normally follow the steps on checking and adjusting backlash or do you just bolt it in with the same shims? Also, easiest way to check gear ratios in two different r200 sitting on the work bench?

Have a 280z and looking to do a 5 lug conversion. I need the front 5 lug hubs. Pm me a price with shipping to 70817

For those who have installed these kits, did you weld on a new perch for the threaded sleeve to sit on? If so, should I make the sleeve sit high enough to be flush with the top of the strut tube?

I just purchased 5ft sections of flared line to go in the stock line brackets. Then rubber on each end is wat I will try at first. Can't remember if the camaro had 3 lines or only one 3/8 supply and one 5/16 return....???

Running 3/8 and 5/16 lines for my lt1 swap while its on the rotisserie. Any of you guys just run plain old rubber lines the full length in same place as the stock lines? I just did this and I'm starting to worry about the rubber lines being exposed. Need some reassurance .....

Eastwood inner frame paint is probably your only option unless the parts are removed. It works pretty good to slow down rust.

I assume they are not the same ?

Looking for a parking brake cable for a 280z

It's not just one side. Both fit the same way and both are built the same exact way. You guys ever cut your old rails off before welding on bad dogs?

Just got around to putting on my bad dog frame rails on my 280z. The fitment seems to be messed up. This is how they fit all the way snug and still have bad gaps on front and back. Any suggestions???

Looking for both in working order

Por 15 is great for heavy rusted areas and is damn near bullet proof. Zero rust is a great after blast coating before undercoat. Being that the shop will not get every scale of rust while blasting. My vote would be por 15 then topcoat it with there tie coat priimer. Easier to sand then por once cured and can be topcoated.