280z4me2

All street driving for me. Was it just uncomfortably stiff for you? Did you have the duel spring just like that one and swapped it out for single 10"? What shocks did you run?

I found cosmos springs in ebay a few months back but they were installed on the stock spring perch. Just came across these that look better but have dual springs. Anyone messed with these? http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=261078590483&cmd=VIDESC&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=85153080861

My cars wiring was removed. It doesnt have headlight connectors and the taillight ones are in rough shape. I am going to use a painless or EZ wiring kit but I need the sockets/bulb connectors. Anyone know of someone who sells them or know of another model that has the same sockets such as the 280zx?

Got my lt1 pulled from 95 camaro. do I use the same size pullys as the a/c compressor for the delete pullys? Or will it still hit the frame rail?

I found a 95 z28 in good running shape for 1500.00. I wasn't intending to do an lt1 swap but that's a good price for a complete running donor. Otgern the cpu, wiring harness, and complete motor, what else will I need? I don't have much experience with motor swaps, do I need to worry about any emissions stuff or can everything be bypassed on the computer once its in my s30? For example, I read the vats in the cpu will cut off the fuel pump if wiring is a little off. Do you have to worry about things like this on a motor swap and can they all be altered for a no emissions car?

On my 280z, the brakes were troublesome and lines were leaking so I tossed the whole thing. I plan on the Toyota four piston front and 280zx rear disk. I have a few questions. Were the 82-83 280zx the only years with rear disk or is there another reason no one uses other year calipers in the swap? I also threw away the 4 fitting square master cylinder looking piece that the brake lines connected to after the master cylinder. Was this the proportioning valve? I assume it dealt with fluid distribution from front to rear... Anyone running this brake setup with a stock proportioning valve? Is the 280ZX valve better then the S30's?

Ran across these coilover kits looking for options for my 280z. Price seems pretty good, and 200lb spring rate for street is a +. Anyone have experience with these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-510-280Z-Coil-Overs-Coilovers-Springs-/150827171576?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231dfffef8&vxp=mtr#ht_941wt_1163

Saw a 1999 chevy 5.7 l on craigslist complete for 100.00 with a blown head gasket. Had 250kto miles so will definitely need a rebuild. I didn't know the 5.7 was made in 99. Are they garbage?

Im looking for some info from someone who has done this swap. How much the axles had to be shortened. I read somewhere online that the Explorer 8.8 is 3" longer on one side. The guy cut the housing on the longest side and put a stock shorter axle on that side. This gave him 3" less on width and the rest was obtained with wheel offset. This axle was put on a late 70's Triumph TR7, which is a very skinny car. Just curious what width you were running...???

I found several drawings for cradle mounts so I will just make my own. Dont remember where I printed them from though.... A tip with the HF blaster, Buy a strainer to get out small rocks. Even the smallest ones will clog it up. Buy a pack of ceramic tips from HF. If you keep the sand clean and the nozzle tips replaced every 20 minutes, its well worth the money. It loses blasting power pretty quick because the nozzles wear out and widen.

Ive been on here for a few years mainly asking questions. This is my first project and figured I would start a thread. I have been at it for almost 5 years and really hope to get it done within 2 years. Not unlikely considereing I have every part including labeled nuts and bolts.... I also didnt want to hit 5 years but we all know how that can go. I originally purchased it to do the bare minimum to put it on the road. It has since tunred into a V8 swap, suspesion, and paint. This is my 1976 Datsun 280z as it sat when I bought it. Then the trouble kicked in... After stripping some of the rattle can primer the previous body man had applied, I began to notice areas that were sprayed directly over pitted rust. This alone was enough to force me to strip it to bare metal. As I was doing this I began to notice the bondo that was piled on 1/2" in some places ,like the entire roof,that actually didnt even need it!!!!! Almost as if they started putting bondo and kept applying when they couldnt get it to feel straight. And under that, you guessed it!, pitted rust! I hand stripped everything I could and then decided I would bring it to a blaster. I pre paid, he did a terrible job,argument led to a refund and a drive home in the rain(with a 80% bare metal car.... I decided not to trust these local blaster and I bought a HF blaster and went to town! Then epoxy primed most of the shell. Then I focused on the engine bay. It had minor rust through areas but lots of brackets holes, and seams. I decided to spot weld all seems and fill them smooth. I cut off all of the old brackets and welded the holes shut. The blaster isnt perfect and I got all of the rust off that I posibly could. I decided on POR15 and there Tie-Coat primer. Also did the same thing with the inner fenders. Removed door skins, spot blasted and applied Zero Rust to the inner door skin and door. The rear roll pan on these cars have big indentions for the bigger bumpers on the 280z model. I opted to shave thoughs and go with duel exhaust cutouts for the 302 Ford swap. Mine was all mangled up beyond repair so I had a machine shop roll me a new one out of sheetmetal. After several thin layers of fller and blocking , i got it straight enough (so I think) for high build. So yesterday I applied 3 heavy coats of Mar-Hyde 2k and began blocking. The plans are to block it out atleast twice. Then I will begin putting panels and door back on to block the entire car together 1 more time. Also made some quick brackets to help support the roll pan.

Im really looking for a bolt in swap. I know I would be charged for wiring harness and computer. But I was curious if they charge for alternator, water pump, a/c compressor, tension pullys, upper lower intake, air intake tube.... All of the small pieces that would nickle and dime you to death.

We have a local pull-a-part with some nice engines to choose from. Website says its like $150.00 for a v8. I was curious if they break down the priceing and charge you for intakes, valve covers, alternator, a/c.... I tried calling them but there are no direct numbers, just hotlines with info. Anyone ever pulled a motor from the yard?

Alot of hot rod guys do candy paint over chrome for the same effect. Google image "candy over chrome paint" and you'll see lots of different colors.

My main goal would be to use the 300zx n/a cv shafts. As long as the only difference is the bolt pattern, I should be able to buy adapters and have them re-drilled?

Ok, so the 280zxt companion flanges are 6 bolt as well as the 300zx non-turbo. The question is are they the same bolt pattern as each other? Also, are all 300zx cv shafts the same length? (Other then driver side being shorter).... If I can't avoid the adapter, I would atleast want to redrill it to the 300zx non Turbo 6 bolt pattern. Much easier to come across them in the junk yards...

I'm still learning this stuff... I guess what I was asking is can you use the 300zx 6 bolt companion flange to bolt the 6 bolt shafts on?

From what I understand, The 300ZXT cv shafts will bolt to my 280z R200 with the MM adapters. The 300ZXT has 4 bolt flanges and the non-turbo has 6 bolt. Is this the only difference? I found a yard with three 300zx but its a good distance away. If they are all non turbo I was thinking of just taking the 6 bolt cv shafts and R200 at the same time to avoid buying adapters... This will allow me to just swap out R200 diff internals with a lsd at a later time.... This seems like a to cheap to be true swap compared to the desired turbo shafts. Any input is appreciated.

I would try it on a small section. Maybe nail Polish remover or laquor thinner. I could see it might mess with the glue holding the carpet down but not the carpet itself. Also duplicolor makes an interior paint that is flexible. I have used the black on door panels and it worked great. If the areas don't get alot of foot traffic I would mist them with that to make it blend in better

I have used goop"?" (In a yellow tin can at autoparts store). It worked great on Plexiglas glass. I would do a small test piece before saturating other plastics.

The ones in that picture are in fact the mustang cobra r rims. Hence the cobra snake emblem on the center of them. Only size I can find is 4x4.25(108). Any idea on what was done to make these work?

Sorry about that...

I want to stay with 4 lug but I am looking for a rim like the one in this picture I found on a google search. Know of any make/models that are similar in chrome 5 spoke rims? I want the same width spokes in the picture(not the skinny ones). Think thoughs are 16's?

Need and s30 rear hatch. Rust is not an issue so long as tons of welding is not needed. Need to ship to baton rouge or close pickup. Don't have to have glass...

I think its awesome! My favorite color no matter the shade. Can't go wrong with burnt oranges ...