280z4me2

Bit to far for me. I am in baton rouge but willing to pay shipping. Anyone else?

I'm shaving the back end but its in pretty bad shape. Anyone make a shaved roll pan rear panel? Or anyone on here make there own?

Looking to an s30 rear hatch without glass. Also could use the rear roll pan below the tailight. PM with what you have and what your asking. I am in baton rouge la.

I always use phosphoric acid to clean rusted metals. You can buy a gallon from home depot for about $15.00. It will actuallytake rust completely off or turn pitted rust into a black color which is chemically converted(no more rust). Do a quick google search on instructions for it. Its super easy and works great!

I came across a a 327 on a frame that the guy is interested in giving me. I dont know anything about the motor nor what the frame goes on. All I know is that the block and heads are chevy orange(factory), and it has that old black circle air box above the carb with a single leg kicked out to get air. This makes me believe its fairly old. Anyone have a quick suggestion of years that I should avoid with a 327? Im going to have to search the frame for markings to find more info....

That car is more then salvagable. I would still persue bringing him to court. However, with some 36grit paper and some phosphoric acid, you can have that car rust free in a couple hours.

On there website it says 336 front and 448 rear. Seems pretty stiff. I think they are alot shorter then Ground control springs because you dont section the strut tube, you weld them on top of the spring perch. They also have a 280 front and 336 rear. They have another option for dual spring coilovers. It looks like a normal coilover but its a second small spring that sits on top of the other one. Any ideas on what this is for? I assume if you got the kit you could still cut off the stock spring perch for wider tires and just weld the threaded sleave to the unmolested strut tube.

Came across a coilover kit on Ebay. Seems to cheap to be true.... Any of you guys use or know someone who has used the coilover kit from Cosmo Racing? Only thing I found on this site was someone mentioning that they are shorter and meant to be welded on top of the stock spring perches. Is this correct?

Can you explain to me how how the tension control rod kit in this list allow camber adjustments...??? STAGE 3 takes adjustability a step further. 1. New outer tie rod ends 2. New ball joints 3. Polyurethane bushings and Gmachine control arm bushings and TC rod kit (these allow camber adjustment front and rear and also toe adjustment in rear) 4. Repack/tighten front wheel bearings 5. Replace rear wheel bearings if needed 6. Aftermarket front and rear swaybars 7. Coilover spring conversion to 2.5" springs. Street springs generally under ~250 in/lbs. 8. Aftermarket shocks (Tokico HP, Tokico Illumina, Koni Red) 9. Bumpsteer spacers 10. Biscuit style bolt in camber/caster plates (EMI, DP racing) 11. Strut tower bars front and back, preferrably triangulated to the firewall in front

Ok, what about the shocks? Why are some pictures with what looks to be spring perches on them? Also, Do companies sell shorter shocks for coilovers or are they not really needed?

Is the width of the old spring isolator smaller then the width of the coilover spring? Do teh springs wrap around like the stock springs do? I am confused how the coilovers mount to the shock tower. Is it just the single shock bolt? Also, I have been looking at shocks and some look to have a spring perch on them. What are these used for if the spring perch is welded on the strut tube from the factory?

With coilovers, are the three stock spring bolts on the shock tower no longer used? Just the one shock bolt holds it in? I found a small pictorial where it looks like the guy used ground control kit with no camber plates. Just grind off the stock perch, shorten the shock tower and weld in threaded sleave. Main reason for this swap is for tire width. Doing a 350 swap and want height adjustability with the widest tires possible. no flares. Also a somewhat stiffer sportier suspension.

Still in the learning process. I cant invision how stock springs and shocks would fit on the camber plate. Being that there are three spring bolts on top of the shock tower for the spring rubber boot that I dont see on a camber plate setup. Are you suggesting raising the spring perch and cutting the springs? Or are you suggesting sectioning the strut tube alone with stock suspension? Why would you not recommend coilovers with no camber plates?

Couldnt find anything in the search about this. I have plans to lower the care 1-2" but I will need the coilovers for wider tires in the rear. Anyone running coilovers without camber plates? How low did you go until the tire wear was really an issue?

Also, there are three holes spaced about 10-12" apart in the rocker panels. They are about the width pencil led(1/8"). I would like to shave them but im affraid they are for weatherstripping or somthing. They are on the horizontal part and the vertical part of the lower door frame.

Yeah I plan on using a fuel cell. Just want to get some paint on it to help motivate me

I am shaving everything and getting the car ready for blasting. I plan on painting the car before a 350 swap. I will have dual exhaust, most likely 2-2.5" out the back. Before I paint the car I would like to have the two semi-circles cut out of the back. Anyone got a good rear picture I can see? Tell me the exhaust size also.

I broke down and bought the JTR manual. My main concern was just getting the body work in the engine bay completed. Im still not sure if I am going with an LT1 or a Carb setup. I would like fuel injection but price is always a factor with me....

Shaving and patching my engine bay for a 350 swap. I don't have a engine yet so I need to know where to mount the hood latch. Anyone have any meassurments of how far the latch should be to the left or to the right?

Was there any rust that you applied it over? Im looking to apply it over rust....

Doing body work and metal patching. Had plans to POR 15 my engine bay and radiator support, then use the tie-coat primer and then paint the same color as the car. I am very farmiliar with paint and body work but I am hesitant on POR. I have tried the sample kit and its been in the sun for 6 months with no problems. I find it to be very durable with strong adhesion. Dont really have the money for a reputable media blaster and even with blasting it is impossible to reach all of the crevices and brackets on a unibody car. Im sure this has been ask before, but who has used POR 15, and had good, LONG term results? Atleast a year or more....???

In the process of stripping out the engine bay getting it ready for primer. While im in the area, I was just thinking about frame rails. I have plans for a 350 swap. Mabey a mild cam and head work but remain N/A. Any of you guys have trouble with the 350 on stock frame rails? Any good threads with some extra strength ideas for a v8?

I think I found a new favorite color for a Z. Great work!

I plan to do the impala/caprice door handle swap to get flush mounted door handles. Just curious if any other Z owner has done the same? Here is a pic if you dont know which ones im talking about.

Within the next week I plan to add metal to patch holes and shave the rear of my S30. The rear of the car looks like someone backed into something without the bumper on. The very middle of the back bumper area is pushed in slightly and rolled up. Anyone ever had this problem? What are some tips you used to straighten it back out? Anyone have pics of extra reinforcement they added to there shaved rear? That area is pretty flemsy.....