Muskrat

Danman, like Venture-Z said, you can get a really excellent solid Z car for 2 grand or less, it just takes some looking. I got my '72 for $850 with a rebuilt head, good paint, rebuilt early SU's, ZX distributor, and a box full of goodies. On a side note, from the Zs I've looked at, surface rust is usually a pretty good indication of rust that isnt as visible... good places to check are the floorpans, and the sheetmetal between the spare tire well and the back hatch. Mine was slightly rusted in the back, and had a baseball sized hole on the passenger floorboard.

I love you, man. LOTS to read.

Hope, until the 50 some year old man at the local convenience store walks out and asks of my car: "hey, is that an old vette?"

Enthusiast: a person filled with enthusiasm; one who is ardently attached to a cause, object, or pursuit; one who tends to give himself completely to whatever engages his interest Like it or not, what some of you are calling 'ricers' are the next generation of car enthusiasts. The great thing is, most of the 'ricers' that I consider friends don't really care what you have to say about them or thier cars. They do it because they like it. So, by definition, a RICER IS AN ENTHUSIAST.

Look out. The FBI might set thier net browsing T-Rex after you. Dirty Bombs!

Here's the link for the cylinder heads in question: http://www.protopline.com/123400000a.asp Heads are $999 as cast, and around $2300 assembled Mike, you didn't mention if this is for the 350 thats in your car, or the 383 motor that you were thinking about building over the winter.

Thats a really incridible story happening there, that alot of people still have no clue about. If anyone finds out the exact date this thing is supposedly going to blow (if it ever does while I'm still alive), let me know. I want to watch.

If I am not mistaken, pin height is a measurement taken from the piston, not the connecting rod. I believe connecting rods are measured center to center; while piston pin height is measured from crown to pin center. The FJ20 conn rods have are 140mm, as opposed to the 133mm of the L24 rods. I believe the L20A conn rods are 135mm. Its worth looking into, though you would need a shorter piston. I'm currently looking into this myself, though I'd like to try the setup on a L24 block. Hope that helps.

Z-Gad, it looks like I didn't give enough consideration to why people use the KA24 piston with L24 rods on thier stroker buildups. All of the L24-28 pistons use the same overall piston height and use a pin height of 38.10mm. The KA24 pistons use a pin height of 34mm, which essentially puts less piston above the pin. The shorter piston allows the use of the longer L24 rod. The thing that I have noticed is that regardless of whether you use the L24 rod/KA24 combination or the L28 rod/L28 piston setup, you end up with a positive deck height. Both will require milling the piston and/or the use of a 2mm headgasket. Even after milling the piston on the L28 rod setup, you still have a 1.030mm positive deck height. It makes a bit more sense now that I've had some more time to look at it.

Thanks john, and jon. I'll do some research on that F54 block.

You are correct of course, a junked L28 would be a better overall deal in this situation. I have read several threads on 3.1liter stroker buildups, which is what sparked my curiousity and led to my previous post. My questions, however, are concerned with possibility, not cost efficiency.

Hi guys, as you can see, this is my first post, but I have taken the time to read around a bit to prevent myself from asking a question that has been butchered before *I HOPE*. By the way, really excellent site. I was using the Sydney Z club Engine Builder yesterday to figure out the largest bore/stroke combination i could possibly run on the street, on pump gas, using the L24 block and the E88 head that I already have in my possession. Please understand, this is all rather new to me, and is an excercise in learning. If the combination turns out to be relatively free from catastrophic flaws, I have the funds to actually make this setup happen. Now, from what I understand from a bit of research, the L24 uses the same main journal size of the L28, and the blocks are essentially the same except for the 3mm difference in bores. The combination that I ended up with after a bit of tweaking and changing parts to get the numbers i wanted was: - L24 block (stock deck height) bored out 3mm, yielding 86mm - unmilled E88 heads with 44.7cc - HKS 2mm gasket - LD28 diesel crank (83mm stroke) - L26/L28 connecting rods (130.3mm rod length) - L28 style flat top pistons, fly cut 1mm The important final numbers I came up with were: - 2893cc with 10.47:1 static compression - 83mm stoke and 86mm bore, yielding .97 stroke/bore and 1.57 rod/stroke ratios The only number that bothered me was: - 1.030 deck height (I assume this means the piston is sticking out of the hole) The questions that I have come down to what are basically reality checks: - will there be valve interferance with the -1mm deck height? - will there be problems with the top piston ring actually coming out of the bore? - can the L24 block even be overbored .120"? - will the L24 block have any internal clearance issues with the larger stroke? Almost forgot... I do realize that this would be greatly simplified by using a L28 block, as it will also yield a larger displacement, and can apparently be bored to 89mm. I would just really appreciate knowing if this would work, and I'm having fun learning. Thanks. If I happened to leave out any critical information I’m sure someone will let me know.