williamb82

i would like to know how thick the pad is on the 17x9.5 rims. the reason is i would need to have 10mm removed to lower the offset to -6 for them to fit my car properly. and even then it requires grinding to the inside of the fender flares. it is a 84 toyota supra p-type. another forum member has some centerline wheels in 17x9.5 -6 with 275/40/17 tires as i intend to run and even with the fender moded there is absolutly no room for the extra 10mm. it would rub when the suspension compresses. id prefere these over the 17x9 -13 for the rear for the extra lip so if anyone can measure that for me id greatly appreciate it. i want to insure this can be done SAFELY before i order wheels. thanks!

actually if you stick to the toyota red coolant the erosion of the water jackets isnt an issue. ive had a couple i opened up that only ever had toyots red in them. looked like brand new. some reason it seems its the green stuff corrodes the aluminum and pretty quick too. idk why. hell, i saw a car with over 100k on the origonal coolant hoses. all of them, and they were all in great shape. but again, it had only ever run the toyota red coolant.

metal hg, arp head studs and a proper tune fixes all the issue with the 7m. you cant get a proper tune on the stock ecm with piggy backs. the only reason id go 2j is to use the electronics from it. far more advanced. but since i have a standalone now, when i get tired of the 7m, ill just go 1uz-fe and turbo it. wont take much to build an adaptor to fit my t56 to it.

thanks. im working on them still. need to find someone that wants to buy my 40mm webers or trade me some 48's that need rebuilt for them. id prefere 48's but would prolly take a matched set of 45's also. the 40's are just too small. and this 7mgte is coming along nicely. ill prolly take it the track when my friend is back from his vacation. i need a better spring for my manual boost controller and to tune the timing some more. i think i can add more up top to gain some more power.

if he is having rodknocj issues he didnt build it right. the main prob with 7m's is engine management. go standalone and you wont have probs. look at cliftons car. he is making tons of power with a 7mgte. he actually helped me wit hthe base map for my 7mgte and sorting some issues i was having

just get a gte. gte has the oil feed and return for the turbo. has oil squirters for the pistons, etc.. now if your going standalone you can just build the ge with forged stuff same as the gte and same for headwork and cams etc.. just use a -t off the oil sending unit for pressure to the turbo and weld a 10an bung in the pan for drain. 7mgte stock is 230hp, 245 tq through 2 cats and 2 mufflers in series. its proven a full 3in exhaust from turbo back that replaces the elbo on the tubo is good for 50hp or so. i got rid of all the extra crap off mine, egr, vsv's, egr cooler, stupid extra brackets, all the stock engine managent and went megasquirt. etc...

updates here. www.MSefi.com • View topic - rpm sign drops to 0 intermitently fixed the sig problem and think i figured out the cause of the spikes in my vbatt voltage too.

it is loosing the ign signal like i thought earlier. just checked the new log. the duty cycle and rpm both hit 0 together at the same exact time and afr was 11.4 when it did it and timing was 21.9 at 176kpa and was at 4k rpm. so something is up for sure. idk what is going on with it. it happens at a higher rpm and boost now. so idk why adjusting the maps would change this. anyone got any tips. i need to lean the fuel back out now but i need to get this ign signal issue fixed first. the log and msq are here http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=35557&p=215674#p215674 im wondering if the issue i was having back in feb with this hapeneing at 5600 rpm was the same issue, just loosing the rpm sig.

i have a 7mgte. engine bucks under boost. did more tweaking ,same ♥♥♥♥. checked the datalog and some reason the rpm sig drops to 0 when this happens. stays 0 if i keep my foot on the gas and engine is dead. as soon as i let off it comes back. wierd. www.MSefi.com • View topic - rpm sign drops to 0 intermitently that has my msq and datalog on it. afr's are 12.5:1ish under boost. its a 7mgte, 57 trim ct26, 780cc/min injectors, edis 6 ignition with stock 7mgte coils like clifton runs, gm air and coolant temp sensors. stock 7mgte tps, 4 bar map, aem wideband, and its a ms2 with v 3 board. no idle control valve or fast idle solinoid. i know the problem is the rpm sig dropping, but i have no idea what would cause it to drop.

still havent had any luck determining what these mechanical advance distributor parts are out of. anyone have any suggestions of what to check?

just an fyi for those that dont know, there is an adaptor to bolt the v160 6speed from the supras to a uz engine, and quarter master makes a flywheel and twin plate 8.5in clutch for this application. also there are CHEAP adaptor plats to fit w58 and r154 trans to the uz engines auto bellhousing and use an internal hydraluic slave such as a tilton or quartermaster etc.... also a 3s series 8 bolt flywheel can be redrilled by a machine shop to fit. they make the bolt holes larger and drill them offset. works perfect. you can buy them already done with the adaptor plate. they have a place in oz that has oversized valvesm cams, valve spring kits, etc.. and i beleive titan motorsports sells all of these things as well as twin turbo kits, forged pistons, forged rods, forged cranks. theres itb kits available etc... pretty much anything you could want including superchargers.

if you want a ffim that looks stock lots of people use the 2jzgte manifold. the lower 2j runners match up to the lower 7m runners in the middle. they cut, then weld them together and then port the inside smooth again. loos stock. tons of pics on supraforums.com

ive got a 7mgte in my mk2 supra. for stock turbo and electronics. if you get a good dp and full 3in exhaust, fmic, hardpipes and a walbro 255lph fuel pump your good for ~300rwhp. get a 60-1 trim turbo, lex maf, and 550cc/min injectors and a safc2 and your good to ~400rwhp. go megasquirt as alot of people do and the 60-1 ct26 should get you close to 450 wit hthe mods mentioned on a good tune. a metal hg and arp head studs is a must. i have a hks 1.2mhg and arp studs tq'ed to 90lbs. im guessing ~380rwhp at the moment at 20psi(ct26 upgraded with 57trim compressor wheel). stock mk3 i/c. this is in my 84 mk2 supra. i have a megasquirt2 like clifton to install so should be able to bump that up a bit. also have other mods like a 24x12x4 fmic and a new intake mani with 75mm tb im building for it at the moment. also i have a gt4082 with 0.68 a/r housing to put on it later. i figure all that should get ~550rwhp on stock internals. the 7mgte is a much better motor then its given credit for. problem is most people didnt maintian them properly. and people try to go cheap when modding and blow them up. do it right and as clifton has proven they make alot of power.

was the one you copied like this? or like this? reason i ask is one is for the z and one for the supra but i dont know which is which.

heres more pics of what im doing. also i need to try and find some 45mm webers. the 40's i have will be too small. hopefully i can find some old italian made ones. would even take some solex's as from what i recall they are made in japan so would prolly be what was origonally installed with these parts. its a toyota 6m-ge made from scratch sort of. using a 7m block, crank and 7mgte turbo rods that were race prepped, 5mge domed pistons, so it should be ~10:1 compression since the head and block wer both surfaced. head is ported and polished, hks cams, intake, thermo housing, ignition, and possibly the valve springs. the valve springs arnt stock. either hks or trd units. only 2 places that had aftermarket as far as i know. head is ported and polished and port matched to the intake. header is a tri-mil 6-1. im going to mod the collector to a 3in vband and run a full 3in exhaust. these were just mock up pics to see what itll look like together. everything will be blasted and cleaned up and everything painted black or cleared. depends on the part. the carbs are in the middle of the rebuild. the bowl cover gaskets proved to be a pita to get the correct ones. these are old italian made 40mm dcoe's. from what redline weber says they were from a turbo maserati. got them from a friend when he parted his 240z years ago. they needed rebuilt. 4 venturis were melted. foudn the 4 i needed like a year later on ebay from england. the parts couldnt be bought new as discontinued like 20+ years ago i was told. anyhow. just figured id throw it up here. i know alot of you guys go 7m or jz in your cars. thought you might like this.

ok, i got a rare setup for my supra and it has a mechanical advance mechanism in it and i dont knwo what its from. the magnetic pickup is from a 82 5mge distributor, but the mechanical advance and wheel arnt. ive been searching google for hours to see the internal setup on diff nissan v6 distributors with no luck. the reason i think it may be a nissan part is because the distributor cap and rotor that mounts to the back of the other cam is from a 89-94 nissan maxima. if anyone recognizes the parts in these pics PLEASE lmk what they are from. lol. that way in case i ever need to replace something, like the bushings for the weights like i need to replace now, i can find them.