williamb82

Ok, so to revive this from the depths. lol. It is not my primary project, so that is why it has been a decade. lol. I have bought five 45 DCOE carbs. I have a matched set of 45 DCOE 9's, and a 45 DCOE 13, and 45 DCOE 45 as spares for parts, so I am back to investigating things for this build. I found that this reluctor is from a 79-81 280ZX. IMAG0126~2 by williamb82, on Flickr I am still trying to figure out where the weights came from. Hard to find pics of the inside of distributors. I am thinking maybe a l20 or something else that is compact. Anyone seen one to know? Main thing is I want to grab springs etc.. to change the timing curve if needed, but also I need bushings for the weights. We put Heat shrink on, and it seems to be a good fit, but I am worried it will not hold up very long at all. THe old worn out ones were some sort of plastic. Same for the throttle shaft that actuates all 3 carbs, but I bout needle bearings for those. These are far too small. IMAG0124~2 by williamb82, on Flickr

Well, I got a set of 17's, but they are 5 lug. If anyone here happens to have a set in 4 lug and wants to trade centers, lmk. Mine are full reverse mesh and the outer diameter of the centers are 16.5in. If I do not find 4 lug centers soon I will be converting my car to 5 lug.

I actually contacted him the day I saw his ad, unfortunatly he sold them the week before that. I ended up getting the centers I need elsewhere, and just need the 17in rim shells for them.

I am looking for some 17in SSR reverse mesh wheels. Either the full wheel in 4 or 5 lug, or just the outer shell missing the center section. I have the centers I need, but now need the outer shells. Let me know what you have and how much. Im willing to pay more for the shells in the proper width and offset for my needs since I wont have to send them off to be widened, etc... Im trying to go as close to 8in, and 9.5in wide staggard as I can. Preferably with ~+12mm offset. williamb82@yahoo.com 813-900-0677 text only please

Rotiform got back to me. $225 per rim shell, so $1800 for the set. Hopefully one of the other shops is cheaper. Image wheels is cheaper, but they are also in England so the shipping price negates the savings.

I will check with Vrwheels.com as well. I found Wheelflip on Google and emailed them earlier today and am awaiting their reply.

I have seen lots of rims with custom shells to change the size/width/offset etc... but I can't seem to find any places that can. Kodiak wheels no longer makes custom shells, i already spoke with them. I have some 16in SSR Formula mesh that I'd like to turn into a set of 17x8 and 17x9.5 with ~+10mm offset all around. Does anyone here know of any other sources? Prefereably here in the United States? I have emailed SSR and not gotten a response.

actually, upon further research, the n/a, and turbo 2jz pistons are all hypereutectic, not forged. better than normal cast pistons. either way, this thread needs more pics!

this is the body plug on the aristo engine harness. hopefully you got an engine with the plug uncut like mine. i cant list wire colors until i can cut a body harness plug out of an aristo at the junkyard. hopefully i can even find one. they dont pop up often. pin f1 is the starter trigger. this goes to the wire you use to the mk2 trigger wire so that when you turn the key it will start the car.(in your case, the z starter trigger) pin f6 needs to go to the main relay power. since it powers the injectors and coils etc.., might want to use the main relay (+B on the large mk2 ecu connecter)to trigger a separate 30 amp relay that is powered from the battery with its own fuse. (id use the same relay as the B+ wires at the ecu plug. thats why i recomended a 30 amp relay) pin f8 is the oil pressure signal wire. if its like most other toyotas, it is the same range as the stock sending unit so should work the stock oil pressure gauge just fine. this goes to OIL on the mk2 ecu plug(if using your stock oil pressure gauge, use your stock z sender. the toyota port is 1/8in bpt as i recall. they sell 1/8th bpt to 1/8th npt adapters in case the nissan is npt thread) pin f9 is the engine temp gauge wire. again, it should control the stock gauge just fine. (its not listed on the above pic, but should be a yellow wire with green stripe on one of the unlabeled pins of that pic.(if using the stock datsun gauge, use the stock datsun sender) pins f7 and f11 are listed as grounds. i know they arnt needed for the engine to run. they may be to ground other items that go through this connector, but it wont hurt to ground these wires to the body.(as it turns out, they just ground stuff from inside the car. you dont have to hook these up at all) pin c5 says ac_mg. i believe this is the wire from the ac clutch relay that goes to the actual clutch. you could just run a wire through the fender well from the stock mk2 wire into the cabin behind the dash to this, though there might be an easier way, i havent looked into it. pin d1 is for the oil level sensor. the mk2 doesnt have a light for this, but i highly recommend hooking up an led somewhere with 12v power through the proper resistor and the gnd leg connected to this wire. id put it in the gauge cluster if it were me, and make it bright as possible. this will notify you if your oil level drops too low.(id rig an led waring light for this to let you know if your oil level is low.) this info is free so you do not owe me anything, but donations are welcome!

heres a post i made on celicasupra.com on how easy it is to get a 2jz aristo swap running. id post the link but not sure its allowed, so here is the key posts i made. hope it helps you guys with the wiring. these are specific to wiring it into a mk2 supra, however i listed what the wires on the 2jz harness are for, so hopefully it makes it easy for you guys. post from 7/30/11 4 wires on the small ecu plug to +12v, and 1 pin on the body plug to +12v, then the gnd to the block, the power to the starter. power the fuel pump, and 1 more wire on the body plug triggers the starter. just fired my 2jzgte up today to make sure it doesnt smoke or knock. bought it yeterday. runs great as is other then a couple small vac leaks from vac lines. heres a vid. ill draw up a diagram in paint later and post it for you guys. instructions below i made these 2 pics big on purpose guys, i hope they help. large mk2 ecu connector behind the glovebox ok, e10 is the only connector here you need to look at. the other 2 are the engine harness. pin 1 is a black wire with orange stripe. it needs to be connected to ignition switched power. it goes to IG S/W on the stock mk2 ecu plug pin 31 and 32 are both black with a red stripe. they need to be connected to the main relay. they receive power when the ecu switches the main relay on. the go to B+ on the large mk2 ecu connecter behind the fuse box (+12v switch. higher current so id put it on a 30 amp relay) pin 33 is white with a red stripe. it gets constant 12v from the battery. this goes to BATT on the stock mk2 ecu connecter pin 24 is green with an orange stripe which is the wire that triggers the main relay to turn on. this goes to M-REL on the stock mk2 ecu connecter (this needs to +12v that is ON while cranking. it would trigger the relay mentioned that supplies the B+ voltage) pin 4 is green with a white stripe. it goes to the stop light switch. i believe this goes to the non powered side so that it receives power when you hit the brakes. only worry about this if on the stock ecu. it will likely tell the ecu when to cut the fuel off for deceleration which should improve gas mileage and driveability. pin 16 is red with a yellow stripe. it is the tach signal. it will require a tach adapter like the msd 8920 to work the mk2 stock tach(or stock z tach as it is also analog). or do the resistor changes needed on the stock tach. there is a thread floating around here somewhere on that. pin 28 is black with a red stripe and is the main overdrive switch. im guessing this needs to be switched to ground to have overdrive on. i recommend checking this wire while the ecu is switched on before connecting it to anything. if it has voltage to it then yes, it needs grounded to engage overdrive.(this is if you plan to stay with the auto trans) pin 34 is black with silver dots on it. this is the ac amplifier. i believe this hooks to the stock ac amplifier circuit so that when you turn your ac on it will engage the ac compressor through the stock engine harness plug and increase the idle. the ac amplifier iirc will turn the ac off if the pressures are too high or too low pin 23 is white with silver dots is the ac magnetic clutch relay wire. this should be what actually triggers the relay to engage the clutch of the compressor. not sure if this is the one that connects to A/C on the mk2 ecu plug or not. pin 3 is green with a yellow stripe and is the kick down switch. im guessing the jdm aristo had a gas pedal mounted switch to make the auto trans kick down when you floor it since there is no kick down cable. if your going manual it isnt needed obviously, but if you stay auto, youll need to install a micro switch on the gas pedal or on the throttle linkage under the hood. then again it may drive fine without it. up to you. pin 6 is black with a yellow stripe and is for the check engine light. it goes to "W" on the large mk2 ecu connecter.(id recomend connecting this to your engine light if you have one, if not, mount an led somewhere for it so you can check engine codes when needed. it will help troubleshooting issues tremendously!)

actually, i didnt end up doing it at all. never got time. i bought a 2jzgte which ill be swapping in. i plan to run a ms3 with the expansion card for full sequential ignition and injection. i have some lq9 coils and found out they work great with the dwell set anywhere from 4-5ms. ill prolly just set them at 4.5ms and leave it. they have a hotter spark then regular ls coils. ive actually got my 7mgte with the full ms2 setup for sale on supra forums and celicasupra.com etc.. also, on my car domain page, i have a startup vid of my 2jz the day after i bought it. went and picked it up from the importer in orlando so i could pick it out myself. started it while it was on the floor in my garage. if the 7mgte doesnt sell soon, im gonna rebuild the spare bottom end i have left and swap it in and then try to reconfigure the ms2 to run the stock cps and iscv and knock sensors etc... but then once all that is done the price will go up as itll be a good running engine. then again maybe my fiance's brother will buy it for his 01 tacoma. its sitting on 44's with a dana 44 front and dana 60 rear. thing is a monster! lol

I am after a set of 45mm Weber or Delorto carbs, though 44mm Solex or Mikunis will work as well. I only need the carbs. I do not need an intake manifold or linkage. If they need rebuilt, that is fine as long as it is a matching set of 3. Let me know what you have and the asking price. They will need to be shipped to Spring Hill, Florida 34608. You can send me a PM here, or email me directly. williamb82@yahoo.com Thanks.

get rid of that oil filter mount and get a filter relocation kit for a 5.0 mustang. for a nipple for the adaptor to thread onto, you can use one from pretty much any toyota that has the filter mounted to the block, 5mge, 7mge, 22r, etc....

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=D&P=1 http://www.supracharged.com/tech/wiring/index.shtml there you go. double check the wiring from the supracharged site. iirc 1 wire was connected wrong. ive fixed a couple 7mgte truck swaps due to the owner wiring according to this diagram. thats why i listed the tsrm wiring diagram as well. this way you can double check it.

nice swap. next mod im going to suggest is a megasquirt setup to run the engine. itll make a HUGE difference in the response and power. the best mod ive done to my 7m so far.

ok, i have searched within this thread and havent found the info im looking for. A friend of mine has s110 200sx(80-81 i beleive) struts on the front of his 72 datsun 510. he wants to keep these struts as they have already been shortened and modded for coilovers etc... What i need to know is if the 70-78 z brakes will bolt up to these struts? we know the caliper bolt spacing is the same, but we are not sure if the rotor offset is the same. or if we want to use a brake upgrade that works for the 70-78z(like the azc kit for example), would we use the 200sx hub? or the 70-78z hub? etc... or will it not work at all? if anyone knows the answer to this question i would greatly appreciate it. William

does anyone have any of the 17x9 rota rb's(not rb-r's) from the original group buy theyd like to sell? i mean the ones with the curved spokes, not the current rb-r's. id like a pair of them, though wouldnt be apposed to buying a full set of 4. pm me if you do. color isnt a concern.

thing is they no longer make the 17x9 in the rb style. only the rb-r. figured id post the pics cause some people dont want to add flares or roll/pull the fenders on their z. so the 17x7.5/17x8.5 combo would work well.

figured id post pics of my wheels. comparisons of 17x7.5 +4, 17x8.5 =4 and 17x9 -13. i started out with 17x8.5 +4 front and 17x9 -13 rear. problem is the 17x9's have way less lip then the 17x8.5's, so would look wierd on the car with more lip up front. plus with the -13 offset, if i run a 275/40/17 drag radial as i plan, itll rub badly. so i sent the 17x9's back and got 2 17x7.5 +4 for the front instead, and moved the 17x 8.5's to the rear. they are hyper black centers with polished lip. 17x9 -13 left, 17x8.5 +4 right this is the 17x8.5 on the rear this is 17x7.5 +4 left and 17x8.5 +4 right 17x7.5 +4 17x8.5 +4 ill try to post pics once i have tires and moutn them on the car. the 17x7.5 has tons of clearance for calipers for a bbk due to the thicker pad on the mounting surface.

i dont know the dwell time but the edis6 module has no issue firing the stock 7mgte coils. what i would recomend is getting the toyota 3 channel ignitor from a is300. then use the coil drivers to fire the ignitor and the ignitor controls the dwell on the coils. id opt for the is300 coils as well if doing this for a cleaner install. im using the 6 coils from a 94-95 camry and will be wiring in the 6 channel ignitor soon when i get time. been busy with other stuff. i have 3 of the corrolla coils that sit on the plug and run a wire to the coresponding cylinder and fire in waste spark like the 7m coils. (1/6, 2/5, 3/4) if your interested. use the same coil connectors but youd need the is300 wires to go with them.

yes, but the missing teeth must be 180deg apart from each other for it to work. i was thinking of doing this but the 24+1 is more accurate as its 1 tooth per 15deg instead of 1 tooth per 30deg.

actually the stock 2jzgte pistons are forged. as for the larger turbo feeding the smaller one, this is the way it should be. look under the hood of a semi with a compound turbo kit. the smaller one is able to suck air through the larger one and then the larger one blow through the smaller one once it comes up to boost. if it were in the reverse the smaller turbo would be an inlet restriction to the larger one.

from speaking with kim the only 17x9 -13 they make is the rb-r's. if he had the 17x9 -3 in the rb with a 3in lip id have asked for those and kept the 8.5's for the front like i planned. honestly after seeing te 8.5 on the back of my car i think itll work out better. i wont have to try and pull the fenders etc... and i can still run the 275/40/17 nt555r drag radials as i wanted. if you look at the car domain page for my 84 supra you can see ive bought tons of stuff for it as well. havent posted all the pics from the last month yet though plus im still waiting on my rear bbk to arrive and the rest of my twin plate tilton clutch for my t56 swap as well. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2042690/

well when i got home friday i took one of the 17x9's and one of the 17x8.5's out of the box. the 8.5's have 5/8ths more polished lip then the 9in wide. so i called kim. he is sending me a pair of 17x7.5 +4 offset and im sending back the 17x9's. the 17x8.5's will allow me to run the 275/40/17 drag radials without any rubbing issues and will have the wider lip i wanted, plus the spokes will match the front unlike wit hthe 9in in the rear. this is going on an 84 supra so will fill the flares nicely. had i known he had the 17x7.5 +4 in 114.3mm bolt pattern this is the combo i would of ordered to begine with. he only has this size and offset listed as 4x100. oh well. took some time getting everything sorted but itll look good when its all done.

the lip on these wheels looks like ALOT more then whats on my 17x9 -13mm rear wheels. he asked if i wanted rb's or rb-r's, i thought they only came in rb-r so thats what i ordered. do the regular rb's have more lip? im begining to wonder if i should of asked for regular rb's. wonder what it would take to exhange them if i wanted to swap. i havent mounted them or had tires mounted. the clear protective covering is still on them actually.