williamb82

as i recall cowboy bebop from supraforums is the one that got them made. he has been banned from supraforums for many reasons. mainly he is shady and i wouldnt trust getting one of these cranks based on all the info ive read on his dealings with others. also his bored and stroked 2uz doesnt perform all that well at all. he claimed it would be a 1200hp engine but was only able to produce dyno sheets for ~390rwhp. ive since heard he was able to make ~600, but even in low boost he must run race gas. something just inst right with the motor and he apparently wont admit it. just trying to give people a heads up. i can provide links to some threads if anyone cares to read them. they are long though.

well got 4 of the wheels yesterday. the rears are correct, but the fronts were in fact yamaha black. gonna call kim later today to see how he wants to handle the return shipping of the wrong fronts. the correct fronts should be here in a couple days.

just call him. i called the number listed on the site and he answered. North American Distributor: Cosmic Marketing Corp. 28301 Industrial Blvd Suite V, Hayward, CA 94545 Phone: 510-786-1726 Fax: 510-786-2007 E-mail: kimcosmic[at]juno.com

i was told they are out of stock on the gunmetal, and agreed to take a set in hyper black. however i spoke with kim today, he said they sent 2 17x9 in hyper black and he thinks 2 17x8.5 in yamaha black (not sure what that is) and asked me to refuse those 2 as he has also shipped 2 17x8.5 in hyper black after discovering the mixup. problem is i wont be home to refuse them so once they come in ill have to call him back so he can setup return shipping back to his company. this should be an interesting ordeal.

for the people that ordered by mailing in a money order, who did you make the money order out to? the company or kim? and did you mail it to this address? Cosmic Marketing Corp. 28301 Industrial Blvd Suite V Hayward, CA 94545 i got my tax return and have the money order ready to mail for my rims but as you all know, kim is slow at replying to email so hasnt returned the email asking for the address and who to make the money order out to etc... thanks. edit: ok, i was able to reach him by phone. he said to make it out to and mail it to Cosmic Marketing Corp. 28301 Industrial Blvd Suite V, Hayward, CA 94545 just an fyi in case anyone else needs to know. i cant wait till my rims arrive.

all a 7m needs is a mhg and arp head studs and the hg problem is gone. as for a 500rwhp 1j, you need a stock 1j, id change the hg and install arp studs to be safe, 550 2j injectors, bosch 044 fuel pump, ss turbo mani(ebay), a s362 turbo or larger(ill be buying a s366 for my 7m after i sell my gt4082), 3in dp and exhaust, fmic, external wastegate, standalone(megasquirt is awesome), good clutch, r154 trans, and a good tune! there are people with 700rwhp on stock 1j internals. a friend of mine dynoed ~540rwhp on stock internals with a mines ecu/safc2 and 550's on a pt6265 turbo in his 84 supra. he is building the motor and swapping to a th400 setup i beleive, dont think its done yet though. bone stock internals. i think he was on stock hg and headbolts as well.

just to be clear on this, the coild drivers can be used to trigger an ignitor correct? or would this cause them to fail. i dont see why it shouldnt work but want to be sure before i rewire the box.

so the ms2 can do sequential ignition output? im seeing 6 coil outputs listed. i dont need the idle speed control circuit. all i need is the fast idle for a fast idle solinoid. edit: heres a thread i found about using the 24/2 cps setup. id go with the lower one. http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=29134&p=194726&hilit=toyota+cps#p194726 http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=34220&p=208698&hilit=cps#p208698

the new code for ms2 has the 24+2 wheel decoder. you take the output from both pickups of the cps and wire them together as 1 wire. 24 teeh for the rotation of the 360 deg. 1 tooth for every 15deg of crank rotation. then the other 2 let the ms2 know where top dead center are. they are 180deg apart from each other as i recall.

which part? the 24+2 cps or 3 coil drivers? both have been done before individually, though not sure about together. i figure using the stock cps would be cleaner then my 36-1 trigger setup and i dont feel like making another trigger wheel when i finish my built motor which will have an ati crank damper on it. i already have the 6 coils with the 2 edis modules installed if thats what you meant and that was a piece of cake.

i used to sell the 36-1 bolt on triggers for the 7mgte. im currently getting ready to mod the ms2 box for the stock cps as a 24 +2 trigger and run 3 coil drivers out of the box. going to use the coil drivers to trigger the toyota 6 channel ignitor i have in waste spark. though i beleive the 6 channel ignitor is a positive trigger and i havent looked up how exactly to trigger it properly. waiting on my tax return so i can buy alot of other things i need for the car to go along with this. currently the 6 coils are running from 2 edis6 modules. works, but has problems if you rev over 6500rpm like i do.

from pics ive seen they look pretty much identically spaced. does anyone have a rb26 and 7m exhaust manifold gaskets they can lay over each other and take a pic? ive seen a couple rb26 manifolds i like and want to cut the flange off and weld a 7m flange if they line up. not worried about the wastegate running the wrong way as ill be chopping that off to run 2 wastegates anyway(true tangical). any help on this is greatly appriciated. even if its just a part number for the rb26 gasket from autozone or napa or something so i can go check it myself. thanks.

does anyone have pics of the hyper black next to the gunmetal? ive read that the hyper black centers are darker then the gunmetal but then kim replied and said the gunmetal was darker. idk whats what now. lol. visual confirmation of each side by side would be nice so i can make up my mind what to order. i might be ordering 2 or 3 sets, so want to make sure i order the right color.

is this car being built to just do wheel stands?

actually i have. thing is the pick and pulls around here are hit or miss if they have any old imports or not. just figured id ask here again first. i figure it must be some sort of nissan, hks used the cap and rotor from a maxima, so i figured might have been another nissan part. back in the 80's early 90's hks didnt mess with too many diff mfg's. toyota, nissan, mazda, and honda are all that im aware of.

actually i have everything at 12:1 now on pump gas. as for grounds, they are all good. i have 2 4awg from the head to body. 1 from block to neg terminal and 1 from body to neg terminal. and all the ms2 grounds are bolted to the body near the battery. not getting resets. im now just loosing the ign signal. if you look at the logs the ign drops to 0rpm even when i leave it in gear to slow down. idk if its the sensor or the edis modules. ive swapped edis modules and same issue. sensor and same as well. so im guessing its due to the length of wiring for the crank sensor to the edis and from edis to the ecu and back. as i said i have the correct totyota 6 channel ignitor so plan to rework the inside of the ms2 for 3 ign drivers and run the crank signal direct to the ms2. itll clean up the engine bay some more and will be able to run a higher redline. with the new engine i plan to run to 8k rpm's with cams and full headwork etc... and if i still have a problem after that itll be easier to track down. its very intermitent.

bump on this. ill be getting the cams fixed with my tax return so will be putting this all together and would like to know what these parts are from so i can try to get replacement parts if necc.

i have 34mm venturis in my 40dcoe's iirc. from the calculations we have done i need a 40mm venturi so for that i would need to go to a 45mm dcoe. i may try the 40mm dcoe's as i havent sold them yet. who knows, maybe ill get lucky and they will turn out to be the right size.

The problem turned out to be the processor was loosing power due to a cap shorting out internally (was on the 5v supply line). that has been fixed. the car still dies randomly but not very often. the problem is shown on current datalogs as a loss of ignition signal. i bought a house in november but havent had a chance to mess with it. im using a custom 36-1 trigger wheel on the crank pulley and 2 ford edis 6 modules running 6 toyota coils. 1 on each spark plug. i have the proper toyota 6 channel ignitor and plan to rework the inside of the megasquirt box so i can run the crank vr signal directly to the ms2 and then run 3 ignition drivers out of it to the 6 channel ignitor and will wire it so the 6 coils fire in waste spark and get rid of the ford modules. the ford modules are not capable of the rev limit i intend to run and also this should clean up the signal to the ms2 and resolve the loss of ignition signal problem. i have extra crank sensors to try if it still persists after this which i doubt it will.

how much are you looking to spend? i have a set on 1 of my supras.

id prefere webers but solex and mikuni arnt out of the question if the price is right. must be a matched set. needing rebuilt is ok. lmk what you have. also shipping to tampa, florida. thanks. also 48's might work also. email is williamb82@yahoo.com or you can pm me here.

for ideas on getting this running you should check out celicasupra.com in the v8 section as theres a few people that have done it so wiring pinouts and stuff are there. also check supramania.com in the build section. a few uz engine swaps there as well. even a twin turbo setup i beleive. in n/a fomr with headers, exhaust and a standalone like a megasquirt. 300+rwhp shouldnt be too hard on a healthy 1uz. would make a fun reliable z for sure.

well my car has flares stock. (wheels in pic are enkie 92 16x7 0 offset refinished by me) and yes this is MY car. looks like ill be going 17x8.5 +4 front and 17x9 -13 rear. the wheels i really want are hre 445r's, 18x8 front, 18x10 rear, 0 offset with matte charcoal centers and polished lip. expossed lugs and polished perimeter bolts. but at ~$4500/set without tires thats a LONG way off.

i understand that but some wheels require longer wheel studs then others so i didnt know if it would be feasable to do this or not. were talking a 1/2in basiclly. i may just go with them anyway and see if i can do a fender pull in the rear. idk. ill try it on my beater before i do it on 1 of my black mk2's incase it messes it up. its got rust anyway,. the other 2 supras dont.

no, i thought it was -16. but to change from a -19 to a -6 i need to GRIND AWAY 13mm. if i added a 13mm spacer that would change the offset to -32 which pushes the wheel out further and does the exact opposite of what i need to do. a negative offset pushes the wheel out. positive brings it back in. i need to bring it in by adding positive offset to the rim. that can only be done by removing material.