blueshark123
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Posts posted by blueshark123
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need to know year of your z...
Sorry I should have stated that. It's a 1971 (see sig
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As title says. I am located in NJ. Pm with what you have.
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Ok so not rushing and making sure everything works, I spent some time under my dash just to get the lighting to work. PITA. I found that there was a bad ground between the lighting circuit and the gauges. After many hours on my back and taking the gauges out.....I am happy to report that 3 hours of work is left.
The ground for the gauges are all made and the harness for the lights as well. I am going to try and find LEDs for the lighting today before I put them back in. Once all that is done and back in, I have to figure out how I am going to get my speedo and tach to stay in the right place.
Next is getting the heat back in the car....it is getting cold!
Nice work man! Wanna wire my gauges when that time comes?
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Not sure if Clive told you but I have an original 76 four speed with about 70K original miles on it. All it needs is a bell housing from any 4 or 5 speed Z tranny. Cheap.
Hmm I could probably swap guts with my current trans. Let me see if they'll fit into a zx 5-speed. My current trans is leaking so I have to assess if the housing is any good. It might be the input shaft seal. I'll keep you posted thanks man!
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bump
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As title says I need a functional 5-speed. Prefer local pickup. I am located in Northern NJ.
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Z fenders are really flimsy. Easy to put a dent or dimple in.
Most car guys know not to lean on cars. Just not a good habit to get into.
Even harder with the super wide fenders in the way. Leaves a nice little pain in your lower back leaning over trying not to put weight on it.
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I had the pleasure of working on EvilC's car today. Thing is a beast!
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^thanks for answering that, but seriously i mean are these thing just insane to handle making that much tq all over the place.
With any car if you add power and do not upgrade your suspension, tires, and basically all supporting mods you will not be able to effectively deliver the power to the ground.
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Took these photos tonight at Joe's garage.
GOT TIRE?
Got wheelgap? LOL jk. Can't wait to see how it looks like with the flares on. You are extremely lucky you have a friend like Joe to lend you garage space!
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Yeah research, read, research, and read. Come up with a budget and add another 5k to it especially if you aren't doing the work yourself. If you are building a car to retain it's value then you are heading in the wrong direction. Hell you are heading into the wrong hobby if you want a return on your money. Oh did I mention read and research.
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Are you looking specifically for a 240Z? I have a '77 280Z with a great body in central CT that I'm about to put up for sale.
Yes still looking specifically for a 240z. Thanks though
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I like! I have to go check the car out!
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Joe you are right, I meant to say it a little different. The first pump in line, I think the micron number is to high (only catches huge particles). I believe it to be higher than 100 which I am running on my car. The second filter in line is ok, just was over worked (in a good way) since it looked like it was doing all the filtering.....that explains the Nestle Quick crap in the filter. Honestly, I think the first session of the first day....sloshed up all the crap that was sitting in the bottom of the tank and then clogged the filter.
No gas = no power:malebitch
Pre-pump http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AEI-12304&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Post-pump http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AEI-12335&N=700+115&autoview=sku
No gas = no power = running lean = kaboom!
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Well I still wouldn't have bypassed the second filter because I didn't want to foul up the injectors! Also I believe the first filter in line is to big (low microns) and the second one being so small (high micron) that caused this screw up. The first filter caught nothing and the second one in the engine bay did ALL the work. Maybe the car now will run a tad rich, so I am guessing we should hook the laptop to it just to be sure. Like Joe said, don't skip the small things and don't assume like I did.
That's not what you usually want with an inline pump. You want a high micron filter between the tank and pump, especially if the pump is a pusher, so that it will not hinder flow too much and then a low micron filter after the pump to protect the injectors. The lower the micron the smaller the particle it can filter. The lower micron (first in this case) should catch everything making the second pointless if you get what I mean which doesnt make sense in this case.
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Will post pics of how clogged the filter was! Amazing the rear filter was clean when I took it apart. Front looked like it was used to strain dirt from a mudslide
Crazy stuff. How was it that it made it past the first filter but all got caught in the second?? What were the micron ratings on the filters?
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OK, I hear ya.....how about the "No replacement for displacement".
I would have one word for you....Boost, but let's not whore up the thread
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Looking good man. Good luck with her!
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Did you realize that "Torque is King"?
Torque on its own doesnt win races. There are plenty of FAST 13B motors out there. Making torque at high rpm rather than at low rpm is what you want because you can take advantage of gearing.
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Rags you're right. Just do some datalogging and see what's up. I got to check this car out sometime. I wanted to see it at Glens but unfortunately I couldn't take off of work.
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Looks like your FPR has a vacuum line hooked up to it. I'm not sure who your tuner is but if he didnt account for it that could be part of the problem. 98+ LS1s dont have a return or use any vacuum adjustment. The tune in these computers would likely have issue with that setup unless the tuner knew that and adjusted for it. To my knowledge only the 97 vette had a return style system. Also 43psi is about what LT1s run...its possible that was adjusted for in the tune but then the lower pressure changes what your injectors would be capable of putting out, effectively going from 26lb/hr to something lower.
Anyhow I would focus on making sure FP is correct...just make sure you know what its supposed to be for your setup as it may have been adjusted for in the tune.
That's true but most aftermarket FPRs increase fuel pressure 1:1 for every lb of boost seen. This motor is NA and shouldnt see this happening. Either way this would have been picked up on the dyno. I wonder why there even is a vac source connected to the FPR? Im not sure what brand it is either
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43psi after the fuel rail?...did you check at the fuel rail? It should be 58-62 there. I originally had a fuel pressure issue with mine. It turned out my pump wasnt getting enough voltage because of the 280Z fuel pump wire. It read about 12 volts at the fuel pump at idle (shoulda been 14.5). I ran a new wire and that solved my issue.
Yeah but then he would have been seeing this problem on the dyno. Sounds like it might be a fuel pickup problem. This happened on a friend's car (not a 240z) when he was on a dyno all was fine but when he got on it on the street it would break up and feel slow. It turned out that the pickup was made wrong and when the car would accelerate the fuel would go to the back of the tank and starve the pickup; something that wont happen on the dyno.
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Hey guys, I will give the first hand "feel" of Joe's car.
My first two sessions out, I felt that I was about 30 mph slower just due to me not driving the car like I stole it. In the after noon for about 4 laps I drove it at about 8/10 and qas quick to realize that the car was down on power. I am thinking lean in the mid range about 4k-5200k....I was coming out of turn 11 and can drive all of 4th gear to turn one and never see about 5100 rpm. Sometimes, about 3 times, the car would come alive like someone kicked it in the butt. That was only if I kept my foot in it for periods of almost 15 secs or more. I really didn't want to blow anything up so I backed off. I mean it was getting to the point where stock 5 series bmws were catching my up hill on the track. The fuel pressure is reading 43 psi, which is after the fuel rail (return of fuel is done by the regulator, fuel rail is not a dead end point). I took the fuel filter apart and no junk in there. I am guess next step is to remove injectors and see if they are clogged. I don't think we will find anything because it would have made the car miss not just lack power. Like Joe said, we often play around about who's car is "slower" but for sure this 396 rwhp car is MUCH slower than my 388rwhp car. Maybe I can shoot a vid this week and we all can hear what I am talking about.
As far as the alternator dying....ha! I was on my way home from the track and then boom...no power. Had to drive 45 mins from where the car died to get the part and then back to fix it. I was about 2.5 hours from home and luckily my dad came up with tools the night before....brand new alternator from Adavance Auto $170..yay! That just makes up for the lack of gas I used on the track =)
Will report back as we figure this one out.
Sucks to hear man. Was this car ever running properly before the dyno tune? If so what was changed?
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I like! I have to go check the car out!
WTB: LS1 swap parts
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Throwing this out there in case anyone might be parting out or not continuing a project. Looking for JCI mounts or headers or JTR headers. JCI driveshaft and modded radiator