Austing

The truck runs and shifts like new I guess I could take the car where ever for sale but it's easier if someone gets it I'm not great at driving trailers

I have a 2004 Silverado with a 5.3 for parts and a 83 Datsun 280zx I’m looking to sell them as a set this project was a lot more than I bargained Near Houston

I'm ready to buy a kit as well. Any update on this?

I'll unplug it and clean the contact good it's brand new sensor that hasn't been run on yet but maybe my contacts are just old on this thing there's a lot of things that don't look like they've been changed since it was built. But I'm going to go and check some things with ohm meter and see what I get and write some numbers down I know the important things need 12v so I'm checking that out

Yes even that one the rotor is point straight like it shows it that picture. And while I looked at Haynes and others I used the fsm that came with the car. The red booklet that came from Nissan for the 83 280zx my copy was missing some pages so I used the downloaded version the website who's names leaves my mind for getting any fsm for the Datsun years.

I should have put that in but yeah I did have it tdc by checking the notch that the slit was right on zero as well as cylinder 1 was on the up compression. (You saw those in the pictures I took of the head gasket when I was trying to figure out which one was the right gasket)of course that's the only way to make sure it's tdc as stated by the fsm. I followed the fsm for the disassembly procedure but that doesn't account for a part failing not just if it was taken apart right and put back together correct because I did follow the fsm for putting it back together in the right sequence. That's how I knew the torque for all the bolts and that the notch bar distributor timing is pointing at 11 o clock just as it says in the fsm and the included picture in the fsm is exactly how it is in mine I followed the vacuum lines diagram when I changed all the lines just to be sure they were right in the first place. Also as well as threads I read for replacing the head gasket which you did help me that other time. And regardless of the injectors I unplugged the relay so the injectors wouldn't run while I tried to start the engine with starter fluid. And the only reason they flooded is because I kept trying to start the car when I had it all put back together so I didn't want to keep flooding the engine trouble shooting it so I just unplugged the relay to clear the gas out of the Intake wide open throttle. I followed the fsm for pulling apart engine and putting it back together. Both Haynes and chills and threads. I'm asking this because it seems that a failed part is the reason it won't start I just can't figure out what. I've indeed pulled all the spark plugs and I checked them to make sure they all were sparking.

So I have an 83 280zx na and i had to replace the head gasket on it because it was blown, after putting everything together which I marked injectors in Order and spark plugs and I replaced all the vacuum hoses and caped off the egr because I am using straight headers. And the car won't start 1. It has fully charged battery when trying to start or jumped when I kept trying 2. It indeed got flooded with gas trying to crank it over 3. I cleared or at least I think I did, the gas out of the Intake by disconnecting the efi relay in the kick side cover 4. Fuel pump is running its brand new and you can smell gas when the injectors were running 5. There is spark because I checked the dist to make sure it was spinning and the spark plugs to valve cover to make sure they sparked 6. Oil and coolant are not leaking anywhere and all the head bolts are tightened to the correct torque as stated in fsm 7. When the battery is low the starter clicks so it's working as well 8. The engine cranks and cranks but doesn't turn over 9. I tried blowing air into Intake as it was cranking as well as with a little bit of starter fluid and it didn't turn over, however blowing the air I noticed more movement from within the engine than not blowing air in and regularly cranking 10. I checked my fuses links and they are all fine none seem to be melted or anything but I will double check with ohm meter So after doing some hours of reading I've come to conclusion of a few things that may be bad A. The ignition module, which confuses me because before the car ran fine not perfect because of the head leak but loss of power randomly and the sporadic engine dying seem to be cause of the module B. The distributor even though I'm getting spark maybe it's not working properly and yes I switched it 180 degrees and checked both ways to start it C. AFM, this doesn't seem likely but I did read threads where a bad Afm was the cause of poor engine performance but could that cause the car to not start Things that I have replaced and other things that maybe the problem? 1. The battery has been replaced as well as a brand new alternator because the old one was bad 2. However I replaced the chts because it was falling apart I don't know because of the engine over heating and blowing the gasket or it was just faulty even thought a bad chts can cause loss of power 3. Bad ecu, I do not see where the light is that people say blinks when you start the car or maybe I'm looking in wrong place but the ecu has been replaced by the previous owner I noticed it had marked and stickers from auto replacement warehouse and worked before I blew the gasket so I don't think it could be bad ecu unless it just finally gave but I don't think the coincidence could happen 3. When I blew the gasket the car wouldn't start over which I didn't expect it to because of the compression loss and mix of oil and coolant. So I figured new gasket it would work again. 4. Injectors, I don't know if the injectors have been replaced since I got it but they did flood the engine when it was all put back together, so I don't think they are faulty 5. Brand new spark plugs because might as well replace them while I was at it 6. Brand new fuel filter got installed with the fuel pump both of these were is installed before the gasket blew 7. I've replaced all the other gaskets using the gasket kit when the head was pulled 8. Engine was at tdc the cam key was straight up and the sprocket had number 1 pointing straight up. 9. I replaced the water pump with a new and a gasket as well 10. New timing cover gasket and cam seal 11. Chain counted links from end to end as I do have the picture as I used a file and roughed up the chain on the number one on the sprocket pointing straight up. The back side of the chain had the perfect line from top to bottom no extra links or short links, which how do you short the links when you wouldn't be able to put the sprocket on anyways. So things that I have noticed is that I have fuel I have spark and I have air but the car will crank all day with power but will not start over. I'm lost here as I have been reading threads and using the search and came up with some things that might be the cause however i can't pin point which of them has failed. Im lost for thoughts here and pulling my hair out because this thing ran before I pulled it apart, ran poorly but it ran, and now it cranks and spins the fans fires the plugs gets the air and fuel but just won't turn over. If anyone thinks I'm missing something or something I should check that I haven't listen please let me know.

man I'm sorry man that sucks about hp limitations in Switzerland I thought that was very relaxed compared to other country's. ? I'm thankful I live in Texas and a great out by the country county where anything over 25 is exempt they just make sure I have seat belts and running lights. Don't even pop the hood.

So why would you get rid of the v8 for a Toyota? I mean you could've gotten your 250 to 400 horsepower easier if you wanted to stay that low and a lot less costly than it would've done after you did all this for the Toyota. But I mean maybe you just wanted to stay Japanese I mean to each his own for sure. It's an impressive build to begin with so I applaud to your hard work. If you're shooting for doing extreme horsepower in future you could've went with a m70 or s70 v12 twin turbo it and you're at a 1000 hp cheaper than it would be getting that Toyota to a 1000.. Just my .02. Either way happy you liked your build in the end great work man.

Dude thank you so much and thank you new zed for all your help I really have my head wrapped around this thing now.

So having all the holes that are around the square holes blocked are ok?

So I used the search and the Google with key words of holes blocked by gasket and I've read the three pages of threads here and while they talk about blocked holes they don't say what happens. One thread had two blocked holes on bottom using performance gasket. Other with different holes blocked or not in other holes. But none with that one blocked hole on mine in that specific spot. Although one thread with pictures on the exact block and head as mine no one answered what happened with blocked holes.. So you think that I should just use the gasket with the one blocked hole. Worse comes to worst I just blow the gasket off right?

No the gasket that was on it was blown to bits by the previous owner. Chunks were missing like 3 inches of gasket was just missing all around various holes and in the front by the chain. I laid all the busted pieces out but sections where the holes were are gone just missing gasket material.

Ok thanks

This was the gasket that came with the kit when I told them 83 Datsun 280zx na.i replaced all the other gaskets and when I got to head gasket. It blocked a ton of holes on both the head and the block. http://imgur.com/iJid28z

But that hole in the close up pic is the only hole blocked with that gasket and it's blocked on the block as well. All the other holes on that gasket line up with the head holes expect that one hole.

http://imgur.com/8JpWEyR http://imgur.com/tWl3Xs9 http://imgur.com/RGC2iFT For some reason I can't upload pics so I uploaded them on Imgur but on this one gasket that fits the head it blocks a hole on both the head and the block is what I was trying to say

Ok so this gasket on the block shows excessive holes and blocks a hole which I'll show on the head in next pic.

But with either head gasket holes are blocked or not blocked on either the head or the block so. On putting both gaskets on head holes are blocked on head.

Also if anyone wants two head gaskets for free just pay shipping I'll send them to you since they don't take back the wrong gaskets they give you.

Ok I've been to oreillys 3 times because they keep giving me the wrong gasket and they are clueless help when you tell them the block and head. So I'm done with oreillys the only three gaskets they have for l28s and none of them fit my f54 block.. Excessive holes or holes don't even line up with holes on the block. It's a 83 280zx with a f54 block and a p90 head. What aftermarket gasket do you guys recommend. I'm not stroking it but I might turbo it in future.

Thank you new zed I was worrying about that if that maybe be a underlying issue or a serious issue waiting to happen. Also I don't get why I can't positive up a post it says I reached my quota even tho I've never been able to positive vote before.

So I'm redoing gaskets on l28 and I had it marked at tdc before I pulled head after wards I looked and saw that two valves are open numbers 4 and 5 the rest are closed. Does this mean my valves need to be adjusted with feeler or is that normal? It not open like crazy just a little open like 2 cm.

Thank you again new zed

Thanks for all you guys help and your input newzed I will have a photo thread showing my progress when it arrives in the mail.