zeeboost
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Posts posted by zeeboost
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Are you sure it's the wheel bearings causing the movement, and not something like a damaged/worn ball joint? I've seen that before (not on a datsun).
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I was a bit hesitant to put the cam back in the 1 position, because I was thinking it would help me out in the top end. The only thing is I don't know if it shifted my power curve forward, or if it's hindering the entire power curve. I thought that the cam sprocket was only numbered for chain stretch. Not knowing how many miles my chain has, I set it on the 2. After searching the archives, I've read a lot of conflicting info about it either being used for cam timing or chain stretch...maybe I'm interpreting it wrong?
I just got back in from driving it again, and I'm starting to have T3 withdrawals - full boost doesn't hit until 3600-3700 rpms
. The turbo was a turbonetics T04e that I attempted to rebuild, but ran into way too many problems, so I sent it off to a shop. The shop used the same compressor housing and wheels, but they replaced the centersection and the turbine housing due to excess wear (which there was). I got the turbo back from them and had it in my garage for a few months before I ever opened the box. When I finally got around to installing it, I noticed the exhaust flange was a T4, but the size of the turbine housing was still relatively the same. I've been told it looks like one used on a Grand National, whatever that's worth. So, with this being my first full T4, I have no clue if this is normal for boost to be hitting at 3700rpms. Clifton helped me out in choosing the turbo, saying it will hit my power goals without much lag at all, but I don't know what difference it would make when switching the turbine housing to a T4. -
Well, after driving it for the day, all I can add is under boost, at 8psi this thing screams, and roasts the tires through 2nd gear on a hot day (something that only 15psi with the factory turbo could achieve). But, geeezus the lack of low-end power is killing me. Maybe I should at least try moving the cam sprocket from the 2 back to the 1?? I don't know, but it takes forever for the new turbo to spool up. That, and the idle is a couple inches of vacuum lower...FWIW.
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Alright, well I've had coolant leaking from my headgasket for a while, so I replaced it with a 1mm Kameari metal headgasket. The previous gasket was a nissan competition 1mm metal headgasket, so compression should still be the same. When removing the head, I noticed that the top half of the tension-side timing chain guide had broken off, and it was laying in the bottom of the cover - god knows how long it's been like that. After cleaning everything the best I could, I replaced the chain guides and reset the cam/crank timing. The only thing I changed (from what I can tell) is I adjusted the cam sprocket from the 1 to the 2 setting. In doing this, I had to tweak the cam a hair to get everything to line up.
The new turbo I installed is a turbonetics T4 - .6* hotside and I don't remember the compressor specs. It's been over a year ago since picked it up. Anyways, after having everything installed and driving it around, the car feels a bit more sluggish, and seems to bog/lug down when driving around without boost. As soon as it hits boost it'll scoot, although still seems a bit more sluggish than when I had the factory T3 on there.
So, if you've made it this far, here's my question: Where should I start to correct the sluggish problem? Should I tweak the cam/crank timing any? Or should I adjust all the VE tables and timing charts all over again? I would think that the VE tables aren't the problem, since driving under vacuum is really where it feels sluggish, and I'm assuming the new turbo shouldn't have effected the driveability under vacuum-only conditions. But, this is my first turbo upgrade, so I'm not sure what to expect - that's why I turn to you guys. I'll be messing with it tomorrow, so I would appreciate any quick responses. Thanks!
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Let mek now what you have - this will be going on a '75 280z.
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6-month bump
Actually, I no longer need the camber/caster plates.
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Yes, but I was worried about spacing the turbo too far out to where I would have clearance issues with the inner fender / frame rail. I have it all worked out now. I went ahead and reamed the heck out of the manifold (a little too much, actually) and had the T4 flange TIG welded on there on the inside and outside of the flange. I've always been under the impression that you have to get cast iron pretty hot to make a good, lasting weld on, so I have mixed feelings about using a TIG as the tool of choice. Nevertheless, it's already done, so I'll see how it goes. I haven't run the car yet due to misc. coolant and fuel leaks after reassembly, but as soon as I fix those, I should be in business.
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How about no period on Dr Pepper?
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JSM - could you post a picture? I have one with an external wastegate welded on, but I was wondering where exactly I should weld the flange. Do you know if yours are centered or offset?
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Long story short, I'm about to be welding a T4 flange onto my factory turbo manifold. Is there any reason why I shouldn't hog out the manifold so it will have the same opening as the T4 flange? Should I weld the flange offset on the manifold (hard to describe, but I can't upload pics at work), or just center the flange and weld it on? If I offset it so that the flange is flush with the top of the T3 flange, I will have less material to shave off...if that even matters.
Has anyone else here welded a T4 flange onto your factory manifold? I know Clifton has, but that's about it, and I couldn't find any pics.
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To the OP - so did you purposely use "your" instead of "you're" in the subject title? Because yes, it annoys me
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Our dealership has at least 30 CFC vehicles parked around the lot, awaiting their destruction. There's a few decent vortec engines in some of those, too
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If there's not much of a trade-off between the two, I'll stick with the OEM seals. I'm pretty sure I'll be using nitrous on top of the boost...I just hope it won't be too much for the engine. Any advice on which cam I should use?
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I'm a bit more sober now, and I'd like to apologize for the awkward, overly-cheesy thread title. BUT, the questions are still valid and important, so please help. Thanks!
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So I finally have my lsx drivetrain picked and almost ready for completion. The engine is a forged 370ci with a 9:1 CR,
the transmission is a built t56 (not pictured), and the rear is an R-230.
I have 3 main questions:
1) I currently have a Magnacharger mp122 in my garage, but after doing a lot of research, it seems that 650rwhp will probably be my limit with the blower, so I began looking for a Kenne Bell 2.8 to use instead. I spoke to a user on ls1tech who was selling his KB 2.8 to ask why, and he said that the IATs were rediculous at 15psi, seeing 258* even on meth. He (as well as almost everyone else) also complained about how bad Kenne Bell's customer service, so he'd finally had enough and was going a different route. I was planning on having two "settings" on the power levels, so to speak. The street friendly setting, which would put me around 600rwhp, and the hardcore setting, at around 750-800+ rwhp. With the 2.8 KB, I figured I would have a "street" pulley and a "hardcore" pulley. Since that fellow seemed to be having a lot of problems from the KB, I've been thinking about keeping the mp122 that I currently have, and adding a 150 shot of nitrous. That seems to make a lot more sense to me, since I'm sure I'd rarely use that much horsepower, but how risky is it? I would have it professionally tuned on a dyno if I decide to go this route, btw. I'm curious, is there any more strain on the engine if I have 650hp + 150hp shot of nitrous to make 800hp versus simply making the 800hp from all boost (and most likely meth)? I believe I read that nitrous works well with boost because it helps cool the charge, but I never really researched it that much before.
2) An extra set of LSx 241 heads came with the engine that I bought, because the guy I bought it from (who owns an LSx performance shop) recommended that I take the double springs off the 241 heads and install them on the engine I bought, which have single springs. I do not know the spring rates of either spring, but after removing them, it really feels like there was a noticeable difference in compressing the double spring versus the single (duh). It's a distant shot, but you can see the two springs side-by-side here.
Well anyways, the heads on the engine that I bought have been completely worked over, and that included new valve stem seals. Compared to the seals on the 241 heads, these things are beefy and look like they'd be high-performance. I'm assuming the 241 seals are OEM seals - here's more pics:
Beefy seals on the new heads:
And the OEM (I'm guessing) seals:
Now here's the problem, the inner-spring on the heavy-duty springs that I'm trying to install on the new heads rubs agains the valve stem seal, and I'm pretty sure it would result in destruction of the seal. So, if I want to use the heavier springs, is my only option here to swap out to thinner, OEM-style seals?
3) Couple of cam questions: I'm assuming that I should have more than enough low-end torque for the Z to be happy, so I'm looking for a camshaft that will have a power range from approx. 3k - 7k since the blower supposedly falls off in the higher rpms - any problems with this logic? Also, if I end up going the nitrous/blower route, should I buy a nitrous cam or blower cam? I would assume a blower cam since that would be 95% of my driving anyways, but then I was thinking that even with a nitrous cam, the supercharged 370 should still make more than enough power to be happy on the street, and then when I hit the juice, having a nitrous cam would optimize every bit of horsepower. This is all theoretical to me, I have no experience to back it up.
Sorry for the long post fellas, but these three things have me at a stand-still with the project. And Braap, after that huge discussion we had about the 408, I felt kinda bad buying this one, but figured it would be for the best (and the price was unbeatable!); I still appreciate your help, nonetheless.
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Supposedly there are alot of houses in the area for sale/rent. Esp along the north part of Green Oaks. I'm also looking for a new place to live in Arlington, but haven't been satisfied with any of the local apartments. Are you going to UTA?
Need a roomie?
Yes, I'm going to UTA.
Don't worry big-phil, half of my cars aren't painted either, but I do look forwards to meeting the cowtown Zs.
Any advice on whether or not I should be looking to buy a house?
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Ooooh, I'll look into it. Do they allow you to work on vehicles inside the hanger? Hmm...I wonder if they have air compressors as well.
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Alright, in 3 weeks I'll be leaving my job to resume college as a full-time student. I will not have an income, as I plan to live off money saved up over the last few years. Because of this, I'm not able to qualify for any loans since I can't show a proof of income (that's what the real estate agent told me, anyways). If I can find a co-signer, then I may qualify. I may have one, but it's a longshot. So, I have 5 Datsuns that I need to transport over - the 6th one can wait. I'm planning on selling 3 of them, so I'll still have 3 others that'll need shelter.
I plan on bringing my tools with me, and I'd like to have a garage so I can do small jobs on the side for some extra income. Most of the affordable apartments around the Arlington area don't have a garage, at least none that I can find, and I've been leaning more towards a house anyways. I'm going to be attending classes for another 5 years, so I'm wondering if I should buy instead of rent, so that way I'll at least own something once I've completed college. I've been looking at foreclosures, but the agent told me those are usually hit or miss, depending on the repairs that would need to be done to the house. She made it sound like every foreclosure needs repairs, but I figured they were simply bank repos. I've never been in this situation before, so I really don't know.
So, I also thought about renting storage spaces for each Datsun, although I would think that would be more expensive than paying rent for a decent house, and I don't know if you're allowed to work in them. I don't know if there are any shop renting options available.
The best option so far, IMO, is to keep most cars at a storage building that I have access to about 5 hours away from Dallas, and then find something with a small garage to unload 1 or 2 cars and a few parts. I still don't know if I'd be better off buying a house right now, or renting my way through college. I'm sure it's a lot less stressful to just rent one, but to me it feels like money down the drain. In the last 10+ years I've had a steady income, so it's a bit scary for me to drop it all. I don't want a part-time job, because the reason I was saving money in the first place is so I could give myself more than adequate time to study.
Any advice, opinions, ideas, etc? I'd appreciate them - I feel like I'm in a really big pickle right now.
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I've been listening to Pendulum's CD Hold Your Color...Very good for night driving...
QFT x10
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Any Trance song ever.
See:
,.Wow, that second link is great. It'll be added to my driving mix. Here's a couple of my selections of that genre type:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzFzeyJEDPc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IX7f3JpvrM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zr8u9NOjk3A
For Mr. Pariah -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UwkG3PuZWM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TafG0BNGWK8
A bit softer and more towards screamo than I care to admit, but definately a lot of talent here - if you like this song, the entire album, literally, is awesome.
Old Slipknot is great (can't stand the new stuff), old mudvayne, nothingface, bury your dead, chimaira, disarmonia mundi (can't stress this band enough if you like the genre), god forbid...eh, the list goes on and on.
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Recently, I'll just turn on the classic rock radio station and try to imagine that I'm living in the 70s - it seems to make things more peaceful. I was born in the mid-80s, so I feel like I really missed out by not living in that era...as sad is it may sound to some.
I'd say, probably one of the most relaxing songs I've heard would be:
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. The turbo was a turbonetics T04e that I attempted to rebuild, but ran into way too many problems, so I sent it off to a shop. The shop used the same compressor housing and wheels, but they replaced the centersection and the turbine housing due to excess wear (which there was). I got the turbo back from them and had it in my garage for a few months before I ever opened the box. When I finally got around to installing it, I noticed the exhaust flange was a T4, but the size of the turbine housing was still relatively the same. I've been told it looks like one used on a Grand National, whatever that's worth. So, with this being my first full T4, I have no clue if this is normal for boost to be hitting at 3700rpms. Clifton helped me out in choosing the turbo, saying it will hit my power goals without much lag at all, but I don't know what difference it would make when switching the turbine housing to a T4.
Front wheel is loose even though i replace bearings.
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
No, ball joints can be worn where they allow movement closer or further from the spring perch. Again, I haven't seen it on a Datsun, but on pickups especially, I see it all the time, even worse with older I-beam setups. Most likely, though, your ball joint, if it was worn, would only allow the up and down movement/play that you're referring to. When you mentioned it was in a wreck, that's what prompted me to question the integrity of the ball joint. I've been doing body shop alignments and front-end repair for a few years now, and lots of crazy things happen with thousands of pounds of metal slamming into each other.