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zeeboost

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Posts posted by zeeboost

  1. 1) If you plan on raising the boost to 10 psi or more, you must block the factory pop-off valve. (You can simply replace it with a plug)

     

    2) It will take a LOT more than 12 psi to hang with a healthy LS1 240z. Nitrous may be in your future.

  2. I'm almost in Cedar Park..just barely in North Austin's city limits. My g/f, however, lives in San Antonio - up by University of Texas Health and Science Center, so that's pretty close to you. She said that there's a 280z in the apartment complex down the street from her, but I doubt it's you.

     

    I searched all through Summit without any luck finding the torque spreaders, and when I went to Austin Performance, they told me they couldn't find any, and were no longer made. I figured if I couldn't find them in a j/y, I'd have to make them...although I didn't really spend much time searching the 'net, just Summit.

  3. The bolts were probably over-torqued at some time and bent the pan. You can tell by cleaning it then setting it carefully on a glass table and looking through the glass... but don't let your wife see you:eek: You can try hammering it straight using the glass table as a guide but I don't see the point if it's a stock pan. Just go buy a good cheap used one. Oh... and get the torque spreaders:lol:

     

    Actually, last year I overtorqued the pan, but was able to use a hammer and chisel in the areas that the oil was leaking from, and sealed it up. Then I had to replace the clutch earlier this year, and for some reason when I put the pan back up it was leaking pretty bad. I made sure not to overtorque those oil pan bolts, but I did reuse the gasket, so I'm thinking that may be the problem. I figured since it's rubber with the metal inserts, it should be fine. It's probably the pan, though. I was going to try to silicone it up, but I need to stop being a cheap ass and buy a new pan, as this one has seen its days. If I can't find any torque spreaders at the junkyard, I'll make some -- seems pretty simple. BTW, where in South Texas do you live?

  4. I'm using one, but it still leaks pretty bad. I'm thinking, though, that it may be because I don't have any torque spreaders on the pan bolts (can't find them anywhere) so there's probably a gap between the bolts. I still like it a lot better than the cork gasket, though. I believe mine came from an '82 Pontiac Firebird, I can't remember, but it has the dipstick provision on both sides, which is what you'll need if your dipstick tube is on the driver's side.

  5. You could check your grounds by using a multimeter (switch to measure voltage). Place one probe on the battery ground, and the other probe on the ground in question. If any voltage is seen on the multimeter, clean the ground connection and replace the cable. Bad grounds can cause a lot of problems, and they're not uncommon in an older car. I would also agree to check the alternator to see if it's charging.

  6. I like the diesel idea! Or maybe some water! If the thieves are smart though they will smell the diesel

     

    Myth Busters did the sugar in a gas tank and they showed that the sugar is too heavy and actually doesn't do anything but sit at the bottom of the tank....

     

     

    Guy

     

     

    At the last shop I worked at, we had an Explorer come in that was keyed from front to back, and wouldn't start. Open the gas lid, and viola, you could see the sugar all over the place. Our senior tech flushed out the tank, lines, and injectors (he may have replaced them...it's been a while) and it started right up.

  7. Yep, happened to the black/brown one in my sig. Just bought it, TIGHTENED every lug nut, got it to where it was driveable, and a few miles down the road, my girlfriend trailing me saw sparks flying from the front of the car. It was about midnight, so I never really found the wheel, it may still be laying around I-10 somewhere in Houston. I suspect incorrect lugnuts were on the car. Scared the piss out of me, and tore up the driver fender and door. Any damage, flames?

  8. 1. '93-97 LT1, '98+ LS1; All years were optional with the T-56 6-speed. I believe the earlier T-56s ('93-'95) were rated at less power than the later ('96-'97). I don't know what LS1 T56s are rated at.

     

    2. FWIR, stock LS1s have dynoed around 300whp, while stock LT1s were around 235rwhp - something like that. The LS1 is a completely different animal than the LT1, the heads on the LS are insane.

     

    3. I've heard that the difference with the Vette LS1 and the Camaro LS1 lies within the PCM, and that the Camaro has more of a conservative tune. Again, these were just things I've read on the net. I don't have any personal experience with the LS1, so I would wait for some of the LSx gurus on here to chime in.

  9. Man, you guys are lucky. In stop & go I can see up to 225-235* :-( . That's with a griffin radiator, electric waterpump, and electric fans. However, the large i/c and water-cooled turbo probably don't help that much...

     

    And sir, please, add some coolant to that thing.

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