zeeboost
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Posts posted by zeeboost
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Dude, you suck!
I was planning to start doing the same thing on my hood in a few weeks. It's not a huge abstract on the car, but gives it that subtle, factory-looking appearance. Looks great man -- just more inspiration for me to start on mine -
I'm not sure if you've heard these before, but I'm sure a few of you would get a kick out of these.
Mary went to the doctor complaining of body odor.
"Do you wash?" the doctor asked the smelly young girl.
"Oh, yes," Mary answered. "Each morning, I start at my head and wash down as far as possible. Then I start at my feet and I wash up as far as possible."
"Well," the doctor concluded, "Go home and wash 'possible'!!!"
AND
Three guys are drinking in a bar when a drunk comes in, staggers up to them, and points at the guy in the middle, shouting, "Your mom's the best ^#%$ in town!"
Everyone expects a fight, but the guy ignores him, and the drunk wanders off and bellies up to the bar at the far end.
Ten minutes later, the drunk comes back, points at the same guy, and says, "I just @&^#%$ your mom, and it was sweet!"
Again the guy refuses to take the bait, and the drunk goes back to the far end of the bar.
Ten minutes later, he comes back and announces, "Your mom liked it!"
Finally the guy interrupts. "Go home, Dad,... you're drunk!"
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the cops will be able to use it as an excuse to pull you over....
No joke Tim, about two weeks ago a cop pulled me over on my way home
from college for not having a front license plate on my zx -- but the catch is that it was about 9:30p.m. and there weren't even any street lights on the highway
BTW Tim, did you ever solve the problem of your mysterious engine stumble?
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Here's the link to the petition
http://www.petitiononline.com/txplate/petition.html
I honestly don't think it'll make a difference, but its better than sitting around and doing nothing about it. I hate that front license plate -- it hurts my aerodynamics, looks, cooling system, and total investment all together. That'd be pretty sweet if we could get rid of that stupid law though.
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Thanks for the replies, fellas. Kevin: If it's the engine temp you're concerned about, I'm running from 160-170 on the highway. I was overheating, but a Griffin radiator and dual pushing electric fans fixed that problem. As for my exhuast, it is a true dual with 2.25" pipe all the way out. The only thing is that the car has been lowered approx. 3", so there's really no way for me to avoid the "excessive" bends because they were necessary to fit.
Now, my air intake does need improvement -- it's a K&N air filter, but I draw in all of the hot air in the engine bay. I want to get ArizonaZcar's twin turbo hood, and have a T-fitting over the carb and run dual cone filters right next to the openings to help solve that problem, but if it doesn't work out, I'll probably just end up cutting my hood to make way for a scoop.
I have the stock hood vents (280zx) to help vent out the engine bay, but I'm also thinking about making a couple of vents on the front fender right behind the front wheel to help with the venting.
I think I may just throw on the Edelbrock this weekend to see how she runs.
Thanks again
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Whoops! Sorry for the typo Guy
(Hey come on, I posted this at 1:30 a.m. ) The headers are Headman block huggers; the collecter on the driver side was relocated down around the steering shaft. My setup is supposed to have around 430hp at the crank, but I doubt I'm pushing that much. I need to go get it dynoed, but something always breaks on it before I can take it out I have considered buying a 3.54 diffy, but I would be seeing around 1600-1700 rpms on the highway, and with my cam and carb that wouldn't be too favorable. I have three things I'm still looking in to:
1) Running rich (friends have seen black smoke dump out when I'm gunning it, so I'd say that's a pretty good sign),
2) The carb will bog down pretty bad during takeoff (I'll try a bigger accelerator pump), and
3) It backfires pretty bad out of the exhaust when I let off at high rpm - not just a little burble, I mean LOUD like a shotgun backfiring. I've heard this could also be the symptoms of a rich condition, but I'm not sure. I'm contemplating just throwing on my Edelbrock 600 to see how the condition improves.
Perhaps after I fix these problems, I'll be able to hang up with him next time. Hopefully this time the Sheriff won't catch us
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Well, it was a Supercharged Bullit dynoed at 458rwhp, but still, it makes me feel like crap. My engine must not be tuned too well...setup is: 350 bored . 030" with 10.5:1 flat tops, 280H cam, Holley Systemax aluminum heads, victor jr intake, Holley street avenger 670, MSD ignition, t56 tranny, 3.9:1 diffy, and hooker headers w/flowmaster exhuast. We were neck and neck through 2nd gear, but when I went into third he started pulling on me. All in all I ended up losing by about three car lengths. Good thing I didn't race his other car ('95 Cobra with headwork, supercharger, and 150 shot of nitrous
) It feels like the zx doesn't want to pull at top end. I'll get to about 130mph and it slowly climbs after that - I'm pretty sure the gearing wouldn't limit me at that. I don't know -- maybe I just expect too much of her, but it sure does make you feel slow when you've got the pedal mashed and all you can see is the taillights of a heavy rustang pull away from you.
I apologize to you for not properly representing the Hybrid Z community. Hopefully I can redeem myself soon
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I'm in for a group buy in TX. I want that twin turbo hood BAAD! He told me shipping would probably be around $430, which is more than what the hood costs!
Anyways, just trying to generate some interest for those in TX. If I can't find anybody else, then it's time for a road trip!
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Yeah, they do make those in Dallas, but I believe $50,000 is the base model price for them. You can buy larger packages, (basically more HP, suspension upgrades, etc.) totalling to around $110,000 I believe. My best friend's, brother's, best friend is one of the people that builds the Eleanor replicas in Dallas. I'll see if I can get a hold of my friend tonight and see if he remember's their website.
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Let me start by saying that I'm in (or was in) your exact position about a year ago, and I agree with everything said above. I'm currently 19 and going to college, and my daily driver has been my 1997 Ford Ranger. When I was 18, I decided that I was getting sick of driving that slow, boring pickup, so I bought a 280zx and began the hybrid project. A year later, guess what? There has been over $15,000 invested in the car (the car is still primered in the interior is still torn up -- the $15,000 has just been on drivetrain/suspension/braking/etc.), and my Ranger is still my daily driver. The only way that I've been able to afford the car so far is because I've been working ever since I was about 10 (mowing yards and such), and then at 16 I was able to get a real job, and up until 18 I had been saving it all for the right moment. Now I only wish I would've put that into college, because I'm going to be paying back so many student loans.
Even though the car is running right now, it's running like crap, and stuff never stops breaking on it. I've had it running (street legal) for about three weeks now, and within that three weeks the clutch slave cylinder (T-56) broke, the engine still needs to be timed and tuned, and just a couple of days ago, one of my ARP wheel studs broke off of my rear passenger wheel. So now the car is on jackstands right now, and I have to order ARP studs again because nobody carries them (I have spacers, so the studs are pretty long). This is going to cost me even more $$$. Oh and did I mention the thing guzzles 93 octane gas like a SOB! That's one thing you don't want right now with the rising prices.
I'm already taking five classes this semester, and in order to afford my hybrid, I have to work a job ranging from 30-56 hours a week. Try finding time to work on the car AND study.
My grades show it too. This post is not for you to feel sorry for me -- I'm trying to show you all the crap that I have to go through just to own a hybrid. I'm trying to show you how difficult it will be trying to own / maintain one. I agree with above, just get a stock Z for a few years and go from there. If you want a mildly fast car and still want the Z, get a stock turbo ZX. They can be had in good condition for under $2000. There will still be plenty of time to do your hybrid project. If I had to do it all over again, I would've just bought the turbo zx for now, and done a hybrid project later. Good luck.
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Good analogy utvolman99!
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Yeah, I know what semll you're talking about. My stocker '77 had that "mildew" smell, and even after replacing the carpet, reupholstering the seats, and installing new weatherstripping, its still there. It must be a scent installed directly from the factory. Old Zpice perhaps...?
However, my v8 280zx smells nothing like the Old Zpice -- immediately when you sit down in it, you're overwhelmed with that fresh Gear Oil smell. Ahhh...now that's the stuff dreams are made of.
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So I guess just stay with the stock one, huh? I can't find anyone around here that carries one in stock...even for a T-5. They all have to order them. Tim, what year is your slave cylinder? And did you get it for a T-5 or T-56? Thanks for the help.
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My slave cylinder went out on my yesterday for my t-56 (came out of a 97 Formula), and while it’s not really old (approx. 40,000 miles), I’m curious as to what type of unit to buy that will fit well with the t-56. The one that broke was an AP unit, which I heard were supposed to be pretty good. I’ve been looking at buying the T-5 slave and using Ron’s adapter for it, but I’m afraid that if I go stock again, it will go out and leave me stranded. Is there a performance T-5 slave cylinder that I’d be able to buy that would be a direct replacement (would require any other machining/drilling to mount) and would still be compatible with Ron’s adapter? I checked the archives, but the only info I could find was just to order a T-5 unit from 1990-2000, so I’m not really sure. Thanks for the help.
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Hmm, even though I’ve never used one, I always figured an a/f meter would be the best way to go to tune the carb. I remember reading that they tell you if the car is running rich or lean, but I didn’t know that they couldn’t give an accurate reading of it. I thought about getting an a/f gauge, but I figured the aftermarket monitor would be more efficient. I remember searching through these archives and I found somebody who bought a Holley Street Avenger 770 brand new, and said that it ran like crap and that he had to use his G-Tek to find the most efficient jets for primaries and secondaries that would get him the best a/f ratio. Maybe I will just buy a gauge and mount it in the car. Thanks for the post – does anybody else have a suggestion, or for that matter any other information on a “G-Tek”? I know of the Gtech, but not the G-Tek…? Thanks.
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Man, that was awesome!
Hey, can somebody post a link to the commercial involving the bird? That'd be great!
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I'm looking at buying an a/f monitor to help me tune my carb, but I'm not sure which would be the best one to buy. I searched through the archives, but all I found were people saying that they used their a/f monitor, but not which one they had. I wanted to go the fuel injection route, but due to financial limitiations, I just bought a Holley Street Avenger 670, and am in the process of tuning it. All I know right now is that it's running very rich, and the secondaries aren't opening up...?
But anyways, in your opinion, what do you think is the most accurate a/f monitor? The only ones Summit offers is from K&N and MSD, but I'm sure there's more out there than just those two. Thanks for the help
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Well, finally something worked out -- I guess it really all depends on which representative you talk to. I called back once again last night, and after roughly ten minutes of discussion and explaining my case, I was able to recieve $70.55 credit to the $87 charge they sent me. Of course, they said it would take 2-3 business days, so I'm still holding my breath
If the credit ends up going through, I shall continue to do business with them. I suppose in the future I will just drop off the package at their store instead of having the local guy come and pick it up from the house.
At least I still made money on the deal, so I do feel better about this. Thanks guys for cheering me up.
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Thanks for the replies...I called UPS to try and resolve the matter, but it only made things worse. All the rep did was just repeat what their e-mail said they were charging me for, and kept reminding me that their was nothing they could do about it. Then when I asked how they could charge it on my credit card without my consent, she answered, "Since you used the credit card to pay the initial charge, we had your authorization to make adjustments." That's total BS! I never even used my credit card in the first place. I had a $95 dollar Paypal balance from the buyer's payment, and I just had the charge deducted from that balance.
Sorry to rant like this, I'm just mad at them right now. I've never had a billing dispute like this one, so I'm not really sure what else I can do. It looks like my only option is to grab my ankles, unless any of you have any suggestions.
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Heh, that's a good one -- would've been better if the filter was turned off, but what're ya gonna do? Thanks aux
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I recently sold a pair of louvers on eBay for $71. I set up shipping with UPS that was supposed to be for about $25. Sounds like a fair price to me -- the louvers are only 36" x 38", and they barely fit into the box. So, I have the louvers delivered to the buyer and the transaction went smoothly.
Just yesterday I recieved an e-mail from UPS. I open it up, and it seems as if they've charged me an extra $87!! I look to see why, and they said the box weighed 90 lbs. (bs) and that the box's length and girth exceeded 130" (which it didn't, but even if it did, they should've told me they were going to charge me that much when I gave them the dimensions of the box).
Then, to top everything off, they tell me that I don't need to worry about paying the bill, because they've already charged it on my credit card.. I can't charge the buyer that extra amount for shipping, because a) it's not his fault, and
he already did everything he was supposed to -- so his part is over. This also means that I have acutually lost money on the deal! Does anybody have any advice or suggestion of what to do before I call them tonight and tear 'em a new one!?! -
I'm not sure if the user is a HybridZ member or not, but his s/n is GodZilla, and the picture can be found at zdriver.com
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It worked for me -- I believe he was trying to open the bid at around $25,500!
And it still had the seemingly stock L6! -
Referring to this?
I was planning to start doing the same thing on my hood in a few weeks. It's not a huge abstract on the car, but gives it that subtle, factory-looking appearance. Looks great man -- just more inspiration for me to start on mine 
(Hey come on, I posted this at 1:30 a.m. 
) The headers are Headman block huggers; the collecter on the driver side was relocated down around the steering shaft. My setup is supposed to have around 430hp at the crank, but I doubt I'm pushing that much. I need to go get it dynoed, but something always breaks on it before I can take it out 
) 
Good analogy utvolman99!
Then, to top everything off, they tell me that I don't need to worry about paying the bill, because they've already charged it on my credit card.. 
he already did everything he was supposed to -- so his part is over. This also means that I have acutually lost money on the deal! 
Does anybody have any advice or suggestion of what to do before I call them tonight and tear 'em a new one!?! 
And so it begins
in Non Tech Board
Posted
What a Steal! Sometime soon, whenever I go up to Austin again, I need to bring my hybrid by your house and check out your Z's. There aren't many good-looking ones down here. What part of Austin do you live at?