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zeeboost

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Posts posted by zeeboost

  1. Old, but...

     

    One day a guy was speaking at a paranormal gathering to discuss their related experiences with.

     

    He says, "Have any of you ever seen a ghost?"

     

    Most of everyone raise their hand.

     

    Then he says, "Have any of you ever talked to a ghost?"

     

    Very few people raised their hand.

     

    Then he asks, "Have any of you ever engaged in sexual intercourse with a ghost?"

     

    Then one man way in the back raises his hand. So the speaker says, "Sir, could you step up here for a minute?"

     

    So they guy walks up there and the speaker says, "Sir, could you explain the details of your sexual intercourse with the ghost?"

     

    Puzzled, the guy replied, "Oh, I'm sorry, I thought you were saying goat."

  2. I too have a hybridzx -- 82 with a 355 & T-56...let me tell you -- unless you really know what you're doing and/or have a buddy that knows what he's doing and is willing to dedicate a lot of time to this project, it will cost you much more than what you are planning. I was going into this project thinking I should spend no more than $7500 on it :roll: . There is over $15,000 invested in it, and approx. $3500 - $4000 in just the engine alone. And I still don't have it painted yet or reupholstered the interior! :shock:

     

    Just be sure you buy the JTR book and read and re-read it until you have a good grasp of how much the project will cost. Then tripple that figure. If this is your first project car then you will most likely be doing a lot of trial and error, which will cost you some $$$. Also, since the zx really isn't covered in the JTR book, mounts will require some creative thinking. I'm not sure how the 700r4 bolts in, but if you're going to put in a T-56, you better know how to weld.

     

    Since this is your first project car, I would say you should just get a carbed 350 with the 700r4 tranny -- should be the easiest and most cost-friendly swap (if you're going v8 ). If you search through the archives here you will find some good links to businesses that sell good, cheap, rebuilt 350s, which that would give you a good head start.

     

    Good luck

  3. Well, according to my AutoMeter temp gauge, I'm running at about 180-185 on highway, but in stop and go traffic I've seen the gauge read about 250 before I pulled it over to the shoulder and shut it down. However, at idle, when I used on of those laser temperature gauges (I'm not sure what they're called, but they're the ones that you just point, click, and get a temp reading) it said that my engine was idling about 185 when my gauge was reading 225, so it could be that my gauge is just off. The only thing that makes me think the gauge is accurate is that 180 sounds about right if I'm going at a constant speed on the highway, not 140. Also, when I did see it rise to about 250, whitish smoke starting rising from the engine bay and then idle grew very rough (I was thinking that possible the fuel was boiling).

     

    Cooling system consits of: New waterpump, new griffin radiator, new hoses, new thermostat, and new electric fans (no fan shroud yet). The fans stay on the whole time, although I could set them to turn on at a certain temperature.

     

    Like I mentioned earlier, I'm thinking that venting the engine bay (vents in hood and fenders) and getting a fan shroud should help correct this problem. It's times like this I wish I had an Lt1 :cry:

     

    As far as the block goes, tomorrow, if they seller can verify his claims through receipts, I'm gonna buy it. The only thing I'm worried about is that the block life may have been dramatically shortened, considering it has approx. 4,000 miles of some HARD running on it. I'm talking burning slicks in 2nd gear (in an auto), racing a VR4 from 0 - top end and leaving it in the dust, and many, many posi marks resulting in plenty of time spent doing high rpms. But oh well, it's just money, right? :wink: Hopefully I can qualify for FAFSA this year... :roll:

     

    Thanks again guys, er, Guy :D

  4. You have my vote. About a month ago I purchased some injectors from some guy here that were supposed to be used for "one month", but when I got them in, only three worked, the terminals were corroded, etc. Anyways, I think that would be a great idea. Some of the stuff on here can be very costly, and if it's misadvertised by some jackass, it'll really flare up the buyer. :cuss:

     

    Great Idea!

  5. My heads are aluminum and also have 64cc's, and as for the cam, he was also running the 280H cam. BUT, I installed rhoads lifters (when I still had the engine running using the bad block) and my friend didn't know that they "tick" at low rpm, so when he was adjusting the timing (I wasn't there, otherwise I would've stopped him) he tightened down the rockers too much and it rounded off lobes on the 280H, cracked and chipped the lifters, bent pushrods, and clogged up the oil pump with metal shavings. Sooo, now I have to buy another cam and I'm looking at which kind to get with higher compression. I've been thinking about a roller setup, but man that's a lot of $$$ :shock:

     

    I'm already having trouble keeping the engine cool now, if I put in the other block I'll really have hell with it. New waterpump, new griffin radiator, new hoses, new thermostat, and new electric fans. I'm thinking if I get a fan shroud and vent out the engine bay (vents in hood and fenders) then that should help, otherwise I'm going to melt the engine in stop-n-go traffic.

     

    Problems, problems, problems. Thanks for the replies Guy.

  6. This would be just the short block -- I have the heads, intake, carb, etc. I just got some more info on the block:

     

    Pistons are Speed Pro hypereutectic flat tops (supposedly 10.5:1 w/64cc heads)

     

    Eagle Connecting Rods

     

    From I remember, the crank is stock

     

    He claims there is about $850 worth of machinework done to it.

     

    He said that he has the receipts for all of the work, so if this much is true, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna buy it, unless you would have a good reason not to.

     

    Thanks guys.

  7. It has 4,000 miles on it, it came from a 350, and I've seen it run (which it runs like a cheetah, on speed, with its ass on fire) The block is bored .030 over with hypereutectic flat top pistons and all ARP bolts. He wants $600, which sounds a bit high to me, but then again I haven't been in the v8 market for a while.

     

    If this isn't a reasonable price, what should I offer him? Also, is there anything in specific that I should look for to check for weak spots?

     

    Sorry, I really hate asking this question on here, as I know it's one of those annoying posts that you don't want to answer, but I'm just trying to keep from getting screwed, like I have been in the past.

     

    Thanks for the help.

  8. Yorktown is about 50 miles south of San Antonio.

     

    Your story is a bit discouraging, but I will not want them to bore the block out or modify the crank in any way, so hopefully as long as it's all stock they won't be able to screw it up. If I get a new bottom end with them, it will cost me a bit over $400. If I do it myself it will cost:

     

    $250 to bore the block

    $300-400 for pistons

    plus an additional $500-800 for the crank, rings, rods, etc.

     

    So it sounds like if I do it through City Motors, it would save me a ton of money, but then again, if the engine's just going to crop out on me in a few months, then it won't be worth it. Damn, I just don't know what to do. Thanks for the info, though.

  9. Back when I took calls and sold long distance.

     

    Me: "Do you make any international calls?"

    Them: "Uh..yeah"

    Me: "Okay, what countries do you call?"

    Them: "Uhhhh....you know. Sometimes California, Texas, maybe Georgia once in a while."

     

    or

     

    Me: "Is this the only telephone number in your home?"

    Them: "No, I also got Caller ID"

     

    or this one, which is a classic, but I can't really blame her because she was elderly

     

    Me: "Do you have an e-mail address"

    Her: "Yes, it's my first and last name, A-circle, *domain* dot o-r-g, which stands for Oregon of course." (which she lived in oregon, so at least it made a little more sense)

  10. As far as I know, they are only located in Texas (Dallas/Ft. Worth, San Antonio, Corpus Christi, and couple of other places), but I was wondering if any of you have done business with them before, and if so, did everything turn out okay? I just found out that the bottom end is ruined on my 350, and I will either need to bore it out or get a new block, and City Motors sells a remanufactured short block assembly (includes pistons, rings, balanced crank, bearings, oil pump, and gaskets) for just under $400 (with core), which seems very reasonable to me.

     

    Anyways, if anybody has had any experience or would know a good place to turn to, it would be appreciated. Thanks.

  11. Man, that site's been around for a while :lol:

     

    You should check out the auto-theft security systems :-)

     

    I've been following that site ever since it started and it's really gained in popularity. I remember watching "Pushin Brown" as if it were yesterday :lol:

  12. This whole crap about going to Iraq doesn't make any sense to me. From what I understand, they didn't really have anything to do with 9/11. That came from Afghanistan, Palestine, etc. The training and the suicidal maniacs came from Afghanistan, and I'm pretty sure the funding for 9/11 came from Palestine -- Palestine or Iran -- but I distinctly remember reading that it didn't come from Iraq. I'm curious as to why we put Saddam into power there, and then we go on this huge powertrip to go remove him. Even when we knew he was slaughtering his own people, we were still supplying him with weapons :?:

     

    Then again, I'm not authorized to view classified information, so maybe there's something that the public just doesn't know about to prevent chaos...or perhaps my sources are all out of whack. Who knows :roll:

     

    Sorry, I'm not trying to start another political argument again...

  13. Thank you all for the replies. Griemann -- I've always loved your zx -- it's pretty much one of the only 2+2s that I wish I had. I'm a huge fan of EFI and I was leaning towards the 4di setup just like yours, but I've never calibrated an ECU and I figured that I would end up screwing up somewhere which would cost me more in the long wrong, so I figured I'd just keep it simple and get new carb.

     

    As far as your question goes, I do trust my work, but only because I'm not going the cheap route with this engine. Plus, I have some other more experienced mechanics keeping a look out on this thing to make sure I'm not overlooking anything. My heads were just pressure tested (in the machine shop said they tested fine) and were shaved down .005" due to a small O-ring groove from the previous headgasket. I bought the ARP headbolt kit (which says to torque aluminum heads to 60 lbs., but that doesn't sound right to me) and so on and so forth.

     

    Pretty much the general answer seems to be: "Sure, the 350 is a great engine as long as you don't dog on it", which still sucks for me. While I do not plan on abusing the engine 24/7, there are some cars that I will have to put in their place (on an empty, deserted, 4-lane highway of course :wink: ) One of the cars being a 90 LX with a crate 5.0, bigger cam, intake, exhuast, 4.11 rear, fat tires, and 125 shot of N20 -- I'm worried about that race -- I'm gonna film it and post it up as soon as it happens.

     

    Anyways, I guess the original question should've been, How durable is the sbc?" Is there any kind of preventative maintenance I should do for heavy driving? I've always heard from my uncle (who's owned several t/a's in the past) that the most important thing I need to do is make sure I do frequent oil changes. I know that I need to maintain other things, but are there any key tips/suggestions you would have?

     

    Once again, thank you all for the replies. :D

  14. The carb that was on it before was an Edelbrock 600...not sure exactly what kind, it just came with the car.

     

    Tim -- that wouldn't be a bad idea -- I'll have to measure to see how much clearance i have, but if there's enough I could possibly route that "cap" to put a cone air filter right behind the little triangle induction in the hood. I could kill two birds with one stone there :2thumbs:

     

    Is that HeavyZ's car? I've always liked the way his scoop looked on his Z. I had thought about one earlier, but I kinda figured that it would hurt my aerodynamics, so I ruled it out. Although I have thought about doing I scoop such as this one:

     

    433542_1_full.jpg

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