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zeeboost

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Posts posted by zeeboost

    Trashed the crank today... Anyone know if a crank can be re-threaded/ inserted???

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Yup, same thing happened to my crankshaft -- I too broke two harmonic balancer installer tools (though they were a crappy design) and ruined the threads inside the crankshaft attempting to instal the damper with the bolt. I took it to my machinist and had him put an insert in it, and then the INSERT CAME OUT when I torqued the bolt to about 35 ft/lbs. So, I took it back to him, and he double-inserted it, and was successfully able to torque it to 65 ft/lbs (I think that's how much). But, I would just suggest to drill out the ruined threads and re-tap the crank for a larger bolt. Good luck

    Just how many Texan's do we have?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Sorry to hijack the thread, but...

     

    About the engine break-in, I'm trying to follow Grumpy's procedure, although I'm a little confused about one part. I'm going to vary RPMs between 1500-4000 for 15 min., drive it around for approx. 60 min., then change oil and filter. Here's where I'm not sure about: In this thread, Grumpyvette first says to not do any steady, continuous driving until after 500 miles. But, after that, he says that by using mineral oil, the rings will be seated by 100 miles and you can drive the dog out of it, so I'm not quite sure about that. Thank you, however, for chiming in -- I guess it's a sign that I should just take my truck instead and give the hybrid some city driving before I go on a road trip.

    For those of you that have seen the SBC Z32 and SBC 280ZX swaps...

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Why don't you keep the z32 as a daily driver, and save up money for the 280zx v8 conversion? It's been a couple of years since I've put in a 355 in my 280zx, and I've had to pull it back out, twice. It will be going back in this weekend (hopefully :-/ ) I don't know what I would've done if I didn't have my second driver (4 banger Ranger). Then again, it really all depends on how you build the engine up -- I originally half-assed mine, and swapped in a block that I saw run great, but it was in terrible shape, and I failed to do even simple tests that would've strayed me away from it. Anyways, unless you don't have to drive anywhere, I'd suggest keeping the z32 (since it looks like you're attached to that climate control so much) or at least buy a cheap daily driver, unless you already have one. Since you're inexperienced with swaps, I really doubt you'll be able to complete it shortly. Good luck

    Increasing worth of my Z before i sell it...

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I would buy some SEM upholstery paint / dye and at least change the interior color to one single color -- I would think black should be pretty easy. This paint isn't really expensive, either. Like the others said, clean A LOT. Go all out -- clean the engine bay, perhaps repaint the air filter housing, put some of that spray-n-shine crap on the tires, etc. An air freshner would be great. If you're good with the body work, try and repair that rear dent. But then again, it looks like you're really not expecting much out of it, so I wouldn't worry about investing a bit more in it. I'd say your best bet would be just to give it a good clean / detail.

     

    Good one about the $20, :lol:

    Has the Holley intake 300-36 always been the same?

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    I mean, it's been through so many name changes, but were there ever any modifications to it each time they changed the name, or did they just do it for marketing purposes? Reason why I ask is that I've been wanting the street dominator, and I'm looking at buying the Holley Contender for a bit cheaper, which are both part #300-36. I'm just checking to see if there's any difference between the old 300-36 and the new 300-36. I wouldn't think so, because a) they probably would've changed part numbers, and B) from what I remember, it's based on an old z-28 manifold, so it's probably been the same this whole time. But anyways, just figured I'd check before I bought it. Thanks in advance.

    Scissor doors for z cars

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I wonder what happened to that guy -- I remember a while back he was gauging interest on lambo door kits over at zcar.com, and I was under the impression he was going to put them into production, but I haven't heard from him in a long time. I'm pretty sure I saw that 280zx go on eBay, too, so I suppose he lost interest.

    Quick! Need help with bottom end and identifying pistons

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Well, I have the Centerforce SFI flywheel, but I haven't heard any complaints about that one yet. As far as I know, that's the only flywheel I can use with a two-piece block and a t-56 from the LT series engines. That stage 3 clutch sounds pretty good -- I think I'll look at buying that one instead. It should still bolt up to the fly, right?

     

    Well, I did post this to get insight and more info on what I should do to buy a stronger bottom end, so I'll go ahead and get the Keith Blacks just for peace of mind. Even though this engine won't be doing any circle tracks, and therefore won't see as much stress, I'd still have that thought in the back of my mind about the wrist pin giving out, so while it's apart, I might as well upgrade the pistons as well. I guess now would be a good time to go with floaters. Thanks again for all of your help.

    Quick! Need help with bottom end and identifying pistons

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Holy crap! That's exactly why I'm replacing mine! it started chattering on me, and I figured maybe it didn't have a good break in. The throwout bearing is seriously FUBARd! I figured I did something wrong, so i was about to buy another one. $550 is quite a bit for a clutch that won't hold up passed 10,000 miles. I guess I need to start looking at other options. Know any good recommendations besides the SPEC stage 2/3, or is that the best way to go? Thanks again for the warning.

    Quick! Need help with bottom end and identifying pistons

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Tim240z -- I'm replacing the intake because: most of my miles are highway miles, and in 6th gear I'm usually running in low RPMs, which conflicts with the Victor Jr's powerband of 3,000-8,000 RPMs; dual plane would seem more streetable; I usually don't turn crazy RPMs to use the Victor to it's full advantage; I figured that since I already have the Systemax II setup, I might as well go with the intake that they recommend. I'm not sure where you see that I'm replacing the carb (unless carby stands for something else and I'm too slow to pick up on it :-) )

     

    dr_hunt - My heads currently are aftermarket -- as you can see above or in my sig they are the Holley Systemax II heads (2.02/1.6 -- the usual). the crank has been turned 10/10, and I have a high volume oil pump. The cam/lifters/pushrods have about 4,000 miles on it, if that -- the rest of the valve train has approximately 8,000 miles. Why would you suggest Keith Black over the Speed Pro? I know my cousin does oval track racing and he's constantly turning 7,000 rpms with his Keith Blacks and he hasn't had a problem from them yet, but I was under the impression that Speed Pro was a good brand...something I'm missing out on?

     

    Thanks for the suggestions

    Quick! Need help with bottom end and identifying pistons

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    I've always heard that the chevy rods were somewhat weak in stock form. I really can't afford to throw a rod within the next few years, so I figured I'd be on the safe side. Now, I don't have as much experience with Chevy as I do with the Datsun L-Series engines and the Ford small blocks, but that's just what I've always heard about the Chevy rods. My compression ratio should be 10.5:1, and my setup should put out about 400hp and 413 ft/lbs. Do you think the stock chevy rods can handle that? I mostly won't abuse the engine, but I'm sure every once in a while I'll get an urge to gas it. I'd just like a reliable bottom end.

    Quick! Need help with bottom end and identifying pistons

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Yeah, I wasn't sure about that one. I was just going to take the crank to the machine shop to see what he could do, but after work one of the other techs came back to my house to have a few drinks, and when he looked at the crankshaft journals he said that it shouldn't be anything, and just to lightly brush it with emery cloth or steel wool. But then again, maybe he already had a little too much to drink :oops::oops:

     

    Thanks for the warning

    Quick! Need help with bottom end and identifying pistons

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    It looks like the marks should come out easily with an emory (sp?) cloth/pad. I know that I could reuse the rods, crank, and pistons -- the question is would it last me? Would it be something to where I'd be scared to punch on it in fear of something breaking on me? I just don't really know the limits of a basically stock crankshaft and rods, and I don't know if 400 hp would be too much for them. Thank you so far for the replies.

    Quick! Need help with bottom end and identifying pistons

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    First off, lemme go ahead and give you the situation. The v8 has been pulled out of my zx and is torn apart now due to excessive blowby and lack of performance -- I found some wear marks on the crank journals, a couple of cylinders that need to be honed, and a couple of rod cap bearings that are scored. In about 7 months from now, this will be my PRIMARY driver, so I can't afford to have this 355 to give me problems in the future. It's set up to make about 400 hp and 420 ft/lbs. according to Desktop Dyno, so it's obviously not stock. I'm wondering if I should replace the bottom end with an Eagle bottom end so I won't have to worry about any trouble from it in the future, or if the stock internals will work. I've heard that stock rods are supposed to be good for 350 hp or something like that, and I'm not sure about the crankshaft. I did try searching for this information, but found little help.

     

    My dilemma: I have 3 weeks to put the v8 backtogether and drop it in my car. I need somebody to please advise me on if I should upgrade the bottom end to Eagle (this will include their forged pistons and rods, along with their cast iron crank), or if what I have should have a lot of life left, or if maybe I should just get the Eagle rods b/c my crank will still be good, etc.

     

    If money wasn't a factor then I wouldn't be posting this, but I still have a few years of college left, so I can't really go balls out on an engine setup. Plus, I'll need to make a decision very quickly b/c I have to order the parts tomorrow in order to give me adequate time to build it and drop it in. If you have any other suggestions, please let me know.

     

    2) Can somebody identify (mostly, if you know the brand) this piston for me? I've never seen that symbol on one before, so I wasn't sure who made it.

     

    zeeboost-piston.jpg

     

    Thank you all for the help -- I've been searching hybridz for the past couple of days, but I couldn't find anything that would help me. I just found many different questions on engine builds, and that grumpyvette seems to like Eagle rods. Thanks again

    Mechanic Salary True or False

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I too call bs. I work as a tech at a Ford dealership, and you're right -- warranty doesn't pay for CRAP! I know of some of the porters, making $6.00/hr, earning more than some of the newer mechanics we've had in here. I don't really talk to many of the other techs about it, but from what I know, you can either get paid $18.75/hr on commission, or a couple of the newer techs get paid $6/hr plus $6/hr commission.

     

    On a side note, I just found this out the other day, Chilton says that replacing one outer tie rod is worth 6 hours! (I think it was 6...either 5 or 6, but still!) I could make a damn good living just replacing tie rods. But, if you replace both of them, it would be 6.5 hours... :?

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