tannji

Actually, both cams could be at the TB, on the same axis and axle.... this would be simpler, and easier to adjust. Slightly more design work... but hey, getting there is the fun part, right? tannji

Greimann has the essence of what I am thinking about.... but I thought about a dual approach, camming the pedal directly with various "pinouts" in the cam, then another adjustment near the carb (or in my case, throttle body). So, I would be able to adjust the curve (in both senses of the word = ) at the pedal, and have a cable tensioner/length adjuster at the TB, also cammed to allow control over the complete "throw" of the pedal, preventing the second portion of the throw from being too sensitive, also preventing the pedal from bottoming out before WOT. Any feedback now that it is a little more detailed? tannji

lol, long time no see, Tim... I was looking at that yesterday... gets the hormones flowing... but then I remembered that I wouldnt really want to drive that around town.... Wouldnt a test drive be fun tho??? tannji

So, dont remove or modify the cable at all, just add a resisting tension to the pedal?? If that is what you meant, it seems that would make the pedal throw require more effort, which will lessen the finer motor control you have over your foots travel. an instance where that would be a problem is on takeoff, you hit a minor bump or pothole.... turning the normal throttle assisted lurch into a full fledged burnout..... If you meant it as the spring is between the cable and the pedal.... I think you need to explain it a little more to me... thanks, tannji

Tim, that is part of the mech I was visualizing... except I would want only the lower RPM's to have the cammed pull. The extended travel of it would probably need to be stock ratio or even slightly higher. I was considering part of it to actually be in the cabin, modifying the stock pedal design. tannji

I have some ideas that should work fine... just wondering why I havent seen this discussed or done before... is there a tech or performance reason that would prohibit it? I can even visualize several ways of doing it, one way that would allow "locking" the apparatus in the stock configuration, should that be necessary. building adjustibility for fine-tuning should raise no problems either.... I agree that the feedback here should be interesting.... tannji

This is probably from way out in left center... but has anyone done a mod to the accelerator cable mechanics such that low rpm acceleration is easier to manage? I am thinking about something that would incorporate a cam, so that when you first get on it, it takes more travel to hit say, 2000 rpm, while the rest of the travel is normal, or even shortened. It is not impossible to modulate your foot pressure obviously, but as you add horse the unintentional wheels spins are annoying, and it seems that if this was modified, it could make controlling aggressive acceleration from a full stop a little easier. Has anyone done this, or am I completely ignorant and there is a part for this on the shelf already, or .... "Idiot, it wont work because..." thanks, tannji

Hey, BOZ (?).... thanks for the info..... so being that the geometry is rarely perfect, I should probably be at least planning for the CV conversion. You mentioned the parts houses not differentiating between sides in their listings... you are recieving the correct shafts in the end, right? Can you recommend one part supplier in particular? I will search.... but have no idea of who to avoid. Also, my understanding is that I will send Ross my companion flange AND the turbo zx shaft, when I get them back, all I need to do is measure the diff-side stub, and the longer one goes to the passenger side. So far, so good, if I am following your conversation correctly. Sorry if I took this off topic, but the differing lengths caught my attention too, hadnt heard of that before. tannji

Hey guys.... interesting topic..... have question a little off.... but not much. Being as you all are running the CV joint conversions, and I am about to start sending Ross components of my drive train, give me some feed-back here. My understanding is (From Searching this Forum!!!!!) lol that you dont need to use CV's unless you are running over 350 HP/TQ... hard! probably like 400+ and hard. I plan on no more than 400HP, with whatever torque I end up with, out of most likely an LT1, tho I run the TPI now. However, is there a different feel to CV's? Or are they more durable over the long run, or just harder to break over the short haul with High horse? I dont plan on a lot of track use... probably just enough to get some time slips and some fun. Mostly this will be a daily driver with occasional brief hard driving. (I dont really need to explain that, do I?? = ) I am about to do most of Ross's conversions, brakes, rotors, 5-lug hubs, ect. Is there enough difference in durability over the long haul to justify CV's, and are they smoother/easier on the drive train? Or would I be better off spending that money on other things.... of which I never seem to run out... Any thots on this in general is what I am looking for, and I prefer it from people who already have the CV joints, and can relate what they believe the differences to be, both technically, and from a driving experience standpoint. thanks a bunch, tannji

would anyone happen to have a pic of a splitter on a Z? dont think I have seen it, and I would like to. tannji

Good point, Niceguy.... however, with that meek little cage visible inside the car, I think he could get away with the vents..... tannji

thank you! yeah, thats what I meant. I saw several convertibles where they did not consider the strut, one, a long time ago in NY, had holes cut thru the sheet metal and a rubber grommet inserted afterwards =( thanks again, tannji

how do you go about changing struts on a VR? I have always wanted something similar, and came within a whisker of buying a convertible a couple of weeks ago, but the convertible allowed access to the tops of the rear strut towers. tannji

they have a tongue that fits a slot in the metal cup. I think you are supposed to pop them outfrom the front. Mine are broken out... and I havent removed one in over 10 years, but they frequently broke when removing, if memory serves.... I am going to pull the metal backing cup out and finish it, as opposed to having the plastic insert. tannji

whats up with the angle of the individual vanes? Not slamming them, curious.... I am sure you did them that way for a reason, and as this is something I need to do as well, I want some tech input on this. I am considering slightly more radical venting of the hood, with some sort of water barrier so it doesnt hit the wiring directly. Anyone have more pics, as well as tech behind venting techniques? = ) As far as my Opinion... I think they look radical, and depending on how you finish the car, should be left as they sit. tannji

being that you are going with Ross's products, it doesnt sound like you have talked to him about your fitment needs..... He is the first that needs to know and the most likely to have answer, right? I am doing the same conversion, but with 40mm offset wheels, NITB that I found, very similar to 94 rx7 oem rims, but cleaner looking, and cheap! = ) I'm looking at under $900, with Bridgestone Re750's, mounted, balanced, and shipped. (16x7 5x114.3 40mm, with 225/45) tannji

I'm thinking typo... he most likely meant "Ride" tannji PS, would you mind at all sharing some detail on your body's rear treatment? Is it a shell over stock, or (god forbid) putty or fiberglass fill, or...? thanks tannji

Ok, is this considered a big difference? What I mean is; will that much of an offset be detrimental to say, the wheel bearings, affect handling, ect? I am about to jump over to Modern-Motorsports again, dont remember if he makes custom spacers or not. Does anyone else? I would prefer to give Ross the business tho. tannji

Ok everybody.... I just spent a couple of hours searching, and all I got for my trouble was serious envy over other peoples set-ups. I am looking at some rims that fit Alitima's 93-98, or 240SX 89-94. They are 16x7, with a "40 offset" I have seen several different rims with these specs that I like. I am a little murky on offsets, especially when going with a 7 inch rim. any help? I like this because it would save me money on converting to 5 lug thru ross. One more variable, I still plan on doing the rear disk conversion thru ross, as well as the front. will this affect offset further, and can it be overcome with spacers? thanks, tannji

I just did a search recently of the junkyards online.... there were 6 listed LSD's from 87-89 ZXT's, minimum of $1000. I would jump on a LSD for 4 or 5 hundred. tannji

yeah, used is what I was thinking about. I am going to start keeping an eye on ebay and local auctions and ads... tannji

Very nice find = ) The 240Z i recently picked up has the same size sunroof in it... looks a little cleaner than that, but you definitely couldnt squeeze anything larger in the car. Anyone ever cut a metal replacement for the glass? I Bake under that glass, and wouldnt mind at least the option to switch out the glass for something else. Perhaps a carbon fiber panel? tannji

well, I just went and looked at that miller 180 tig... lovely machine.... and $1500 to boot. !!! So I am going to hit ebay and see what I find. any recommendations on machines that will be a little closer to a budget of $500 or so? I think I want to go TIG, from what the guys at B&R said. I figure a cheaper machine will do most of what the average Z person needs, and I think I can work a deal to use someone elses equipment once I have some experience under my belt. tannji

What is the status of the Maching/fabbing of this part? and what is provided vs what do I need to have in hand? How does this differ from the CV part that Ross sells @ modern-motorsport? tannji

Your funny, Spirit.... I already started pricing welding gear.... but its a skill I always wanted to have, so no biggie. now I just need to find some rams from the engine hoists... and install them in the uprights of the rotisserie.... = ) tannji