tannji

BUMP... Also thinking about a fuel cell... would like to see a few different setups... thanks, tannji

the question about 75-76 fuel tanks interested me... are they made in such a way as to prevent fuel starvation during turns? are the yworth putting in my 240, or is there another mod I can do to address this problem? thanks, tannji

OK.... I am prepared to take the BoneHead of the Day award... But only if you all give it to me. I just had the ECU replaced on my 240Z with TPI SBC. One week later it is dead again. The shop that replaced it suspect bad wiring on the fuel pump, as it is small gauge, and poorly routed, possibly even contacting the driveshaft. Also, the fuel pump is non-original, pretty small, and loosely secured in the fuel pump "cage" with wireties and wrapped styrafoam sheeting! So, they think the wire shorted, blew the Fuse in the harness for the fuel pump, and probably killed my first ECU, wich had no 5 volt output pulse for the injectors. Now for the bonehead part.... I have the kick panels removed while I am fabricating new panels and speaker pods for the floor area. The "bronze" looking relay is at the moment dangling, unmounted. Is this a part that REQUIRES being mounted and grounded? Next, can anyone specifically recommend an inexpensive fuel pump that supplies TPI properly? I need to rewire the pump completely anyway, I want to feel secure with the pump type as well. Let me know if my prob was coincidental, or truly boneheaded.... I can take it, lol. thanks, tannji

I think that by the time it occured to him to let off, he already was off tannji

Check it out, appears to be well done, not sure that it is worth the asking price, but worth a gander anyway = ) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2425299258&category=6187 tannji

Not bad.... Kinda ricerish for my tastes, but it does improve night visibility on the gauges, so its a possibility for me. tannji

I am considering a similar rear treatment as far as the tail and hatch..... but I am thinking about cutting the hatch shorter, so there can be a one-piece lip or tail, like that guy did. Also want a finishing piece that cleans up the area around the exhaust and fuel tank, without going so low as to require me to install a matching side skirt. What are the expert's thoughts on this? To build the tail lip, should I fashion it out of metal, spot-weld it, then finish and smooth with fiberglass, or do the whole thing from scratch with fiberglass? How difficult is it to keep the transition between glass and metal from cracking or separating? would it be better to get one of those older style 3-piece lips and join the sections, before or after mounting? Are there any good lower rear skirts available commercially that are very short, just for finishing, rather than lowering the cars rear lines? Also, If I go with a aggressive tail lip, I will have lead-in sections that start about one foot up the quarter panel and flow into the rear lip. I am thinking about doing two-toned finishing as some others have, with white front dam or valance, possibly partial white or all white custom hood, and then white tail lip and tail fascia. I am open to thoughts, comments, or suggestions on this process, especially from people who have done something similar and ran into problems.... thanks, tannji [edit] Also, anyone seen the vented hood that motorsport sells? I would really like to see some more detailed photos of that on a car, with closeups of the venting themselves.

Hey all... I am apparently picking up a convertible 240Z to add to my stable (bringing the grand total to an impressive 2 Zcars, the subaru and minivan are necessary evils, but not worthy of sharing driveway space = ) The convertible has EFI and a ZX 5sp.... as well as something of a subframe reinforcement. This necessitates a nice clutch and flywheel. Back in the day, I had a 76 with 411 gears, the 5sp, centerforce, and a light flywheel. It remains to this day the most fun I have ever had on any number of wheels. At that time, very few cars would even mess with me on the local "strip", because they found that if they happened to pull me slightly, I would be back in a few minutes with the SBC 240Z..... But anyway.... I looked at ZCarParts.com and the Centerforce II is calling, but I am not real keen on the composite flywheel that uses both aluminum and steel. I have heard stories about reliability, and I dont plan on a bullet-proof tranny tunnel, or want parts that would make that necessary. Am I being too picky and paranoid, or are there other flywheels that members are currently using that could be recommended?? thanks, tannji

I am strongly considering swapping out my 700R for a stick shift this winter. General consensus seems to lean in favor of the T56.... My concerns are: 1. modding and fabbing kept to a minimum. 2. gear noise. 3. enjoyability. I want it to be durable, able to take some abuse up to around 400HP. I dont want to have to drown out tranny noise with the stereo. Finally, I wish to avoid most of the 10lb sledge or sawzall work on the tranny hump. Anyone want to give feedback on their flavor of SBC tranny? If any of this is asking too much, I will stick with the 700R and my great gas milage. I can always get my fix for stirring the gear box in the 5sp convertible 240Z I will try to buy next week.... thanks tannji

that "D" shaped hole seems to ring a bell with me as well..... details are starting to filter back to me from way back when I was driving these things... its been about 12 years, and I dont seem to "know" as much as I used to... = ) I am really looking forward to getting this car back on a lift and sorting it out. If memory servers, this euphoric feeling wont last much past the point where I start getting dirty, so I intend to enjoy the feeling while I can. tannji

Excellent! I would appreciate that. Did it appear to you to be impossible, very difficult, or impractical to do the 240SX swap? (without a tube frame, that is = ) I have a guy that can do the conversion, no matter what the difficulty, but his difficulty translates into difficulty for my wallet, in a very linear fashion! It turns out that I cant use very much of the 240SX on my 240Z, unless I go that route. I wasnt looking to get into that level of engineering and fabrication... but it seems to me that the rewards could be very nice indeed. I want to know what your car feels like and handles like.... but with a tubular frame, I would imagine that we dont have very many common points between our two cars. Can you estimate the difference, as far as cornering, traction, and braking? thanks again, tannji

Hmmmm..... Sounds like I need to drop the tank. I am getting the lean out at ridiculously full levels, and the fuel gauge stops at about 3/8ths of a tank.... so between pulling the filler tube, pump wiring, and leaning out prob..... = ( I hate dropping fuel tanks.... lol, Oh well. tannji

anyone else have a problem with the engine leaning out while making a left turn? mine does it while slightly more than half full.... let alone nearly empty. I dont remember ever having this problem back when I used to run Z's.... unless the tank was nearing empty. could this be a fuel pump problem? I got under there and the pump is in the stock holder, but with foam sheeting wrapped around it to compensate for the holder being too big! why would someone go with a small aftermarket pump for a V8 conversion? it also has unsatisfactory wiring, so I am planning on a complete replacement, including new ground wire ran all the way to the battery ground. any recommendations on what pump I should go with? I want either 70+ PSI, or an adjustable unit. (for a TPI motor) Also, filling the tank 100% is difficult.... it backs up in the filler tube at about 7 or 8 gallons, and from there to full is a slow process, waiting for the tube to drain down. Never saw that before either... any ideas? thanks, tannji

BUMP! I was wondering if this idea has been pursued anyfurther by anyone. I have a 91 240SX available to me for $300. (no Title) I have a good Jaguar shop locally that specializes in this type of thing, and I am thinking about approaching him on this topic, anyone have anything to add to the topic before I do?? tannji

hey, I have a guy trying to sell me on the Bridgestone RE750's, which are an update to the 730's. He tells me the American Racing Torq Thrust, (either II's or the D's, not sure) in a 16"x8", with the RE750's, 225 50 in front, and 245 50 in back, will work fine. I saw someone said the 225 50's were rubbing, any idea on this combo? thanks, tannji

Thanks for the reply! I looked at the front mount while the car was in the air, lifted by body jack points.... suspension was unloaded. the tear would still be likely to be compressed and not visible? The only time I have seen them torn it was so blatantly obvious that there was no question.... this time, I am not sure... Also, what am I checking in the strut tower? spring sloppiness, ect? or what specifically. The control arms I think were good, will double check tho. Front end of the car is a different story, everything I quickly glanced at needs new bushings.... the strange thing is... handling and steering wheel responsiveness is not too bad..... but it has been about 12 years since I have felt a tight or competitive Z, so perhaps I will be startled when I replace all that. tannji

While I am at it.... I would like a limited slip rear... Of course, lol. I have the opportunity to pick up a 91 240sx, 5sp with the 2.4 motor. does anyone know the specs on the rear, and whether or not I will want the brake system off this for a disk conversion on my 240Z? Is there a online reference source that will spec out the probable parts in that 240SX, and do I need the VIN # or all the build numbers on the car? I can pick it up in mechanically good shape for $300, as it has a seriously challenged Title.... I noticed that the diff to the naked eye looks like a R200, and has the finned rear cover... thanks again, tannji

Hey all... I have what sounds and feels like a rear end clunk, when I put the car into gear, or reverse. My ECM failed this weekend, so I took the opportunity to check out the situation underneath while it was in the shop. I was expecting to see worn mustache bar or diff mount bushing, and/or half-shafts. Imagine my surprise when the shafts all appear to be tight, and the bushings in the diff mount and mustache bar appear brand new!! so, what gives? (pun not intentional) I am running the 700r tranny and wondered if this is likely to be a tranny problem that is transfering its impact to the rear thru the drive train? or is there something a little more specific to look for in the rear drive train? thanks, tannji