tannji

I just talked to the guy selling those T-56 kits.... He was a little shocked more people here were not aware of his kit... apparently it has been available for 4 years The LT1 version is $580, and the LS1 is $620. For the guys that had to do field engineering to get their trannies working.... Do you think this cost payes for itself? Or having done the fabbing to get your T-56 running, would you recommend DIY for someone considering the T-56? tannji

Thanks, I am on ebay right now looking at stands.... and trying to come up with an easy and cheap lifting mod for the contraption. I was looking at those exact stands.. but now am looking at slightly heavier stands, and tall vertical hydro jacks.... Tool King, here I come = ) tannji

I think with some mods to add rotation, this will do the trick = ) http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46299 tannji

Thanks for the suggestion, Spirit (sp?) And jeff... thanks for the link... altho if you read my post I did do a search... and still had questions, so I posted. If I havent irritated anyone too much, = ) any suggestions on one thing I am not seeing... are all these bodies being hand-lifted, or jacked into mounting height? Or do some of these rotissories have a jacking mechanism built in? Maybe I should just build both uprights with airshocks.... press a button and you are at height.... lol tannji

I did search for a while... but either the posts were lost, or mispelled = ) I didnt find many posts that mentioned a rotisserie at all. Also... i didnt search all the sections, just V8 and Paint and Body.... I wish the forum allowed an all section search, instead of a narrow search. Anyone got an old link? tannji

Anyone have some pics and plans for a rotisserie? Or better yet, know of units for sale? I want to do my current 240Z once... found some new products that should allow me to enjoy my Z without major rust for as as long as I own it.... so while it doesnt actually have problems serious enough to require complete stripping and treating, I figure it will be educational, if not all that entertaining, and I should have a minimum of maintenance over the stretch that I own it. Also... what is the general consensus on the best deadening/undercoating agent? I will be applying an anti-rust product, and over that a new thermal compound, but would like to finish off with something that will help prevent stonechips and cracking, as well as increase the sound deadening. Any and all input appreciated, as usual. tannji

you should check the camera to see if it has lighting correction.... if so there will be settings to correct for normal household bulb lights, (yellowish tint in the photo) tungsten bulbs, fluorescent, and even cloudy days outside. this will hepl make a sharp photo even snappier, and reduce the amount of time spent in an editor. I personally dont usually recommend Sony... unless you already have some of their other compatible products.... irritates me that a company that does quite a few nice things should be so determined to use propietary devices and technology..... Oh well... they all do it to a certain extent, and would be completely propietary were it not for the certainty that they would lose business. Nice Die-casts btw... = ) I think I am going to start picking up datsun and nissan odds an ends to decorate my office in the house we are moving to. have a heated and air-conditioned garage-loft combo that will be all mine . (only single car but it is free, I certainly cant complain. tannji

Good post, and kind of what I was hoping to hear... I really dont car much for the appearance of the ZX, but if I can get this one affordably it might be worth the time. I am in a bit of a quandry, as I really shouldnt be getting both the convertible and the turbo zx, but they are both things I have wanted for a long time.... and the ZXT's are getting harder to find. Thanks for the input on the Zx.... I have drive quite a few, but never considered actually sinking money into them. = ) tannji

I will of course keep as many Z's as I can, in the interest of preserving the Marque.... In keeping with this undertaking, I will be accepting donations. Cash or Zcars preferred, of course. All I know is this. When I had the 79 and the 76, the 76 had better grip on the exact same pirellis. there was of course more harshness and feedback from the road... but I love that feedback. I missed it in the ZX, because I never felt quite as in control, or aware of how close I might be to killing my self = ) THe bumpsteer problem can be greatly reduced in the Z, but I never had that problem in the ZX, because it seemed to absorb that input in the steering linkage, producing a very "american" feel to the handling. So, without coming off as bashing the ZX, is there anyone that has had the same gut feeling as me, and managed to upgrade the basic attitude of the ZX, as far as handling and feel? I mean, it is no big loss either way.... as I said before, I can always buy the convertible 240Z, swap in the turbo, and sell the zx with the 78 EFI motor. it has performance work and should impress the hell out of some kid. = ) tannji

wow, what a shame to hack an original Z that way..... = ) now that I have that out of my system.... that is one mean machine.... love it! those brake rotors are pretty extreme, and I really like that cage. Too bad I will never be able to justify that kind of work on mine, lol. I guess I will have to settle for only getting the brake conversion parts from Ross at Modern-modersport..... and that is going to take some explaining to my financial partner = ) I havent had the opportunity to drive a really hopped up L28 motor, just heard one rev that some kid had dumped around 600hp into, and ended up being to scare to drive. (too scared, or too wise.... my memory kinda blurs the distinction a little = ) Anyhoo... really like the car.... picking up a digicam replacement soon, so I'll be posting some project stuff here soon. tannji

someone should reply to this soon.... it has been too long since I was regularly working on cars.... but that ashy particulate is not a good sign, just cant remember what that would be caused by. I am certain someone will reply soon with the exact diagnosis.... perhaps pointing to exactly what your mech did wrong, or left incomplete =( Wishing the best for you dude, I always want to do the same conversion, never had the funds and the donor at the same time = ) that may be changing soon though. I think a turbo convertible 240Z would be the shiznitz = ) tannji

hey all... got a ZX related question. Back when I first got hooked on Z's, I bought a 79 ZX for $1200. I liked it, but was immediately underwelmed, as it was the pep and handling of the earlier Z's that attracted me in the first place. I rectified this by upgrading the suspension. (bought a nice 76 Z = ) I have been considering going the turbo route after I finish reconditioning my current sbc 240Z, and was looking at some of the Dett options. However, I have an opportunity to pick up a ZXT at a very reasonable price, and in nice enough shape that I feel guilty just gutting it. What kind of potential does the ZX have thru suspension upgrades to approach the performance and fun of the earlier marque? If I do some upgrades to the motor, and match them with strut, spring, bushing, ect upgrades and "tune the suspension, is this something that will satisfy the average Z30 fan? (at least, as a second car) I suppose a worst case scenario is that i drive it until I have the motor set the way I want, and then do a motor swap with a Z30, and sell the XZ with the NA motor cheap.... but has anyone kept their ZXT, and managed to wring good enough handling out of it to be a replacement for the Early Z? just curious, and really expecting a chorus of "ayes".... but please let me know what your experience has been. thanks, tannji

hmm... let's see.... Yep! I gotta couple of cents laying around too = ) I will admit to feeling a little heart pain every time I see a nice Z with a non-original powerplant in it. I was introduced to Z's by a crew that believed in the original car as it sat, give or take a few performance parts. I bought my first V8 240 because it had a flawless body (in Long Island, NY) and I had a very peppy 2.8 with a cam, nice exhaust, light flywheel, centerforce clutch, and 411 gears. (and a load of non-obvious cancer) I was planning on doing a transplant, and was hyped over how much faster it might be in the older, lighter body. That plan lasted until the seller power-braked just long enough to obscure the view out of the windshield. I drove it and experienced torque in a Z for the first time. The motor swap never happened, obviously. But I still appreciate the HELL out of an original stocker. I find myself as annoyed by the form-over function accessories of the ricer crowd as anyone, but I also realize that by no means did it start with them. Anyone care to count the number of american "Muscle" cars that had non-functional scoops and vents and intakes for hoods, fenders, and even roofs? How many firebirds did you see in the 70's and 80's with the huge chicken on the hood, or the overstated flames everywhere? But, in my opinion, altho all these things probably set the stage for rice as we know it.... what about all the low riders with hydralics and $15000 custom paint? What is it about any ricer that is more garish, flashy, impractical, or anti-performance than your average low-rider? I have seen cars to admire for performance or style ever since I was a kid. I probably never really aspired to have my car look like a ricer, low-rider, or hopped-up 78 camero.... But I do respect being able to tell something about a person's talent, skills, or just determination to finish a project with some integrity, just by looking at their car. I do chuckle from time to time over someones little "ricer-car". But I cant honestly tell you what is funnier to me, an accord with a fart pipe getting pulled by a scirocco, or a VERY rusty old CRX flat-out destroying a Stang with loads of Bling and a couple of Vin Diesel wannbee's. The only thing I am fairly certain of is this.... My 240Z may be underestimated by some on the road, or (more likely = ) ignored, because it just doesnt look like a contender. But I will eat my hat the day anyone accuses me of being Rice, based on my cars appearance or exhaust note I think I noticed a post where some kid was listing his mods, which consisted of a wing, rims, steering wheel, ect. Quite possibly a ricer in the making. I dont think anyone needed to flame him for his tastes, or point out that all he was doing was adding weight to an already portly ZX.... Just point out that his post belonged in the Paint and Body thread. I have belonged to any number of forums, and I really think that any blatant flaming should just get recycled, with a quiet but direct PM to the offender. As for the ricers... they may be the next buyer of your sweetheart. Instead of scaring them off... just impress them with your car's performance and handling and style.... they will have a 30th birthday eventually, and probably will have tastes and values to match. tannji

So, how is the car running today? did you clear up the roughness from when you first got it back from the guy, or did you take it back? tannji

HMM... over-all I prefer somewhat period rims, but those wheels of yours look pretty darn nice! I suspected that the rb was pricey to do properly, but I want my next project to wind the rpms a little, instead of all the low end grunt I have now. Can I ask where the majority of the cost was? Do you have any of this documented for us to read, or would you consider doing an abbreviated writeup on it? What would you consider a good price for the RB to be? I occasionally come across opportunities here, but they are hard to take advantage of when I dont know the relative value.... thanks, tannji

hey there... very nice conversion! I love it... and it seems to have activated a little twitch.... I need to do some reading on that motor.... but could you fill me in quickly on the major points, such as: Why that particular motor, as opposed to the turbo L28, sbc, or Det series? What kind of power does it have stock, as opposed to potential? Cost? You mentioned 2475 lbs (I think) any idea what your curb weight was originally, or how this install affected front to rear weight distro? Finished product aside, would you do this conversion again, or would the various headaches and deadends serious enough to warrant going a different route? I am currently working on a 240Z Z with TPI... already "finished", but getting stripped to redo some shortcuts and sloppy wiring, as well as applying JTR mounting position, instead of pseudo Scarab. I have my eye on another shell that has promise, if you overlook its current powerplant. ( no problem there = ) I am also about to pick up a convertible 240 with 280zx EFI, and a bit of a cam. I am up in the air as to what to do.... perhaps just throw a light flywheel and clutch in the convertible, and go nuts on the shell? = ) this is where you come in, give me some feedback on what went on in your "hind-brain" while working your car, and what you think of it now.... The only thing I know for certain is that all of my cars have to be capable of being driven daily... thanks.... tannji

Hey, just thought I would throw in my 2 cents worth.... I have almost 20 years in the Photography industry, most of it in 1 hour processing, digital printing, and camera store sales and management. I will agree that the main brands are best to stick with.... and optical zoom is of far more importance than digital, unless you do not plan to enlarge any photos. The differences in lense quality among the major brand names is has only recently become an issue in my opinion.... as most of the cameras didnt have a fine enough resolution to make the scientifically measurable differences in lense quality noticeable without a very nice printer and a higher pixel count from the camera. As far as brand preference, I like Canon and Nikon. Olympus and Fuji both have impressive technology, and certain models are easy to use and make fine prints, but I have had to honor manufacturer's warrantee far more often on them than on either Canon or Nikon. I also prefer Compact Flash memory to the cards that Fuji and Olympus tend to use. If you have an active life-style and plan to use the camera heavily, please get the extended service plan, and use it, even for cleaning and such. The average repair bill for digital cameras will usually send you shopping for a new camera. In the price range you mentioned I would be looking at the Canon A70, or either the Nikon 885 or 4300. I am replacing my older, broken 885 with the 4300. (was a gift, or it would have the extended service plan = ) The 4300 is reasonably priced (under $400) and uses almost all the accessories that I had accumulated for the 885. It also has a nice macro (for close-ups of small details) and easy sizing of photos. (so you dont try to put poster sized images in an electronic album that really needs large thumbnails.... Good luck... and as usual.... any questions will most likely be answered here quickly..... Z or otherwise....... God, I love this place = ) tannji post-edit....I think battery consumption is fairly equal between the canon and nikon... look at the replacement battery price before you decide...

very good point on the airfoil design.... fortunately I "only" have to move and remount the engine to avoid the hassle of moving the fan.... I am going in the opposite direction of most other Hybriders.... I have a nicely functioning car and I am about to start basically from scratch to get everything either proper, or the way I want it. Time to build or buy a rotisserie..... (hint, hint.... anyone want to sell a rotisserie? = ) tannji

ok, so cool... this wont be a problem then.... Now I just need to find a garage... and look into finding or fabbing a rotisserie. found a little rust I wasnt expecting.... LMAO like there is such a thing. The spare-wheel well is VERY flexible.... I think it would fail a finger poke-test in spots. This might be a good excuse to find or fab a fuel cell for the well, and mount the spare in the hatch area, like a dune buggy = ) How badly would this affect weight centering, with the only other variable being me in the drivers seat? hmmm..... tannji

Anyone on the forum actually done this install? I am considering it, as the radiator runs $40 in my area.... and the current radiator has a reservoir that hangs 2 or 3 inches below the crossmember. The plastic drain plug is snapped off, leading me to believe its only a matter of time before I will be missing the lower part of the radiator. Just looking for someones experience on this as far as hose routing, adaptors, the heatercore hose, ect... thanks tannji

just realized..... I will be remounting the TPI motor this winter to the JTR position...... this will pull the TPI intake 4 inches or so back from the radiator = ) just have to endure mini-hurricane fan until then. tannji

I am about to get the taurus fan, but my TPI cold air intake will interfere quite a bit if I use the fan as an internal mount puller. Can I mount this as an external pusher fan and reverse the polarity of the motor? Please say "Yeah, No Prob" = ) tannji

I would recommend giving a couple of the products on this page a gander.... I am going to treat my car liberally with several products from this company, and my headers with another that isnt quite on the market yet. I suspect that a combination of Rustgrip and Supertherm would out-perform most of the other products on the market, and I am pretty certain it has a longer life expectancy. http://www.supertherm.net/ru100000.htm tannji

Hey, this was a good post so I'll ask a few questions here... On the single speed Taurus fan, does anyone know if it moves the same cfm as the low speed on the two speed taurus fan, and if It's current (amps) needs are the same? I run a sbc tpi, and it is set up manually with a VERY loud fan at the moment. I want to utilize the thermal sensor and control relay through the TPI harness to control the fan, with a manual 3 pole switch in the car. (If I go with 2 speed) I have the Check Engine Light mounted in the cabin under the steering wheel at the moment, needs to be moved to a better position for visibility. Does this light come on if the engine is running hot? Being that whoever built this car did not use the harness to control the fan.... how hard is it to track down the control wire for the fan? Last... (lol, yeah right, there is never a last question = ) I want to have an accurate display of engine temp, preferably digital. I realize the variables of where the temp sensor is placed, accuracy of temp sensor, as well as accuracy of display. Can anyone recommend a digital display, as well as a replacement temp sensor, if I need one, to address my anal tendencies? thanks again, everyone = ) tannji

BUMP ??