Sleek Z

Larry, if or when you get the notion to one-up your own reservations about your present photo potential for the sake of all of us wanting to see more details of your project, let me know and i'll show you how to pull a rabbit or two out of your hat. If your simple 35 mm Olympus camera has a small built in flash and can focus within 3 feet of an object, the unique Oregonian winter light in your area will take care of the rest. Being a "real" native Oregonian myself, I know of what I speak on this one. btw, is there a photo processing store in your area that will scan your 35mm film and burn them to CD for a modest charge like most COSCO and Longs do? Highly recommended solution over scanning drug store prints or editing images from poor quality digital cameras. Let me know. Glad to help

Example of New 4 piece removable solid prototype top now being produced for Tomahawk Z Kit. Larger View ___________________________________________ I reviewed this thread today after several contacted me about assorted news contained herein. You go for it Tomahawk. I've always wanted to get some hands-on fiberglass experience myself, but neighbors here would go balistic if they ever got a wiff of the fumes. Nevertheless, I am looking for a clandestine solution because, like you, I am quite curious about the process and it's creative potential related to some projects I have in mind. Seeing that you've put so much work into these projects and many have requested to see your progress, it might be possible for me to work with you to build up an illustrated project-in-progress gallery for you at ZPARTS.COM, but I must caution that I am badly over extended time wise and updates might not be as quick as hoped for. Let me know if you are interested and I will give you some photo pointers for illustrating your project at it's best it will make everything "pop". Welcome back to the Kit building world, John. You've been sorely missed during your brief absense. I am still interested in photo documenting interesting examples of your VR kits running aroung my area (SF-NorCal) if you can ever hook me up with the owners of the best examples. Harley mentioned a Guy in Davis, I believe, but that's all I know of. So far, all I have is that modestly finished Red one that you baby sat for the owner at the NCKCC Berkeley Marina show back in 1998?

Not sure why some can see the original photoshop modded image at http://www.geocities.com/gundam1026/tonymontanaZ.bmp but the link does not work in my Mac IE5 browser, not even if I drag it onto the address bar. Anybody give me clue how you all are seeing the image? I next downloaded the linked graphic and it came in corrupted, with the top of the car blacked out, so I am not sure what's up with all the problems experienced. 2nd, I noticed the link shows image was saved as a .bmp image file rather than JPG, not a format that is proper to web viewing with a browser. If you save web shareable images in .jpg format using Photoshop's Save for the Web feature you probably will end up with an image half the size that is viewable in a web browser. For those interested in learning Photoshop, you all with high bandwidth might like to check out a Tips & Techniques site with 200 mbs of QuickTime Photoshop Tutorials produced by Russell Brown, one of the original programmer team that created Photoshop. This guy's verbal narration in the Quicktime tutorials is pretty wacky, but his tips are quite useful, easy to understand and professionally crafted. Link to his Tips & Techniques page is at http://www.russellbrown.com/body.html Another very cool Photoshop tutorial site (amongst thousands) that I think very highly of is that of Anders Qvicker in Sweden. Link is http://www.stab.se/aq/ny/pstips/fwf_all.htm Lastly, for you guys savvy with Kaaza, Limewire and Hotline, do some searching for Adobe's Classroom in a Book PDF downloads related to Photoshop to gather together some well rounded introduction to this very big and feature rich program. Enjoy,

I don't have any before and after assemble photos to share at this time, but many years ago I sold a one piece G-Nose fiberglass knockoff unit and at the time I believe it was determined that there was a unique hood hinge that must be used to mount and align a stock Z hood properly to installed G-Nose. Why this is so is not clear to me because I have seen several of these unique hinges before (I have one on my Fairlady ZG, I presume?). 2 years ago I photographed one of these hinges on some pavement while in a hurry, but not side by side to a stock hood hinge unit so it would be difficult to show you anything aobut the differences with photos alone. Parked outside my door is a real 74 Fairlady ZG with an original 5 piece G-Nose installed on it. If you or anyone in the SF area wants to come over to measure the installed differences just call 510-233-2624 for an appointment to stop by. Unfortunately, it's too complex of a measurement task for me to attemp right now so somebody else will have to do it. Hoover Chan was just over here measuring my Fairlady ZG for fender mirror locations just a few months ago and I am happy to let others take measurements and photos of it's unique features if that will help anybody here.

Sumo, I tried to email you through Hybridz link in your message above, but it isn't working for me. How can I contact you about your Z car front end mods shown above? Either that or do you have some more photos of it online somewhere? Thanks much,

Guys, Hold tght for a few days and I will publish some new photos taken this weekend of a radical 280Z based convertible project being buit in Northern California destined to be setup with 18" Konig wheels made with 4 bolt stud pattern, ready to bolt up to 240Z, 4 bolt spindles equipped with 4 wheel , Z32 4 piston brake and rotor setup at the base of coil overs. The customizer already has purchased the 4 lug, 18" Konigs with mounted tires and it is my understanding that has test fitted them up under stock front fenders and modified rear fenders. My one shot of the Konig wheel will show it positioned outboard and to the rear of 240Z already running a 17" wheel, in an attempt to give everyone here some kind of comparison between the two while I wait for an opportunity to photograph project with 18" wheels actually fitted to project car later on. Photos of structural reinforcements and body mods, custom brake and suspension mods, ZZ4 V8 engine and wheels will appear soon in my Featured Z Car Projects section ps, I invited Dan Juday to accompany me up to the photo shoot and you can bet he will have some impressions of his own to share about what he saw there after I get the photos published.

Latest test photos of VH45 in a 240Z can be seen on my ZPARTS.COM website in the Featured Projects Index

Len, Uh Oh, another "assumer" loose on this thread . I figure you were trying to play it safe with your guesses, but sorry to inform you, of the 280Z parts you listed, one will absolutely not interchange amongst all 280Z model years, another will not interchange without further modification and a third is a nit pic border line issue that I'd have to research a bit more before claiming that it will not work. Care to guess which ones? Anybody? "I am outta here"

I just happened to check back to this thread several days after my last post and have read the several "assumptions" made about how many parts interchange within the 70-78 S30 models actually interchange and already can see how some could be easily mislead by some of the comments. While it is true that many parts will "bolt up" or can be modified to interchange from one model to another with time, skill and extra expense, the list of what will not interchange is quite long. I think what is being overlooked here is that when one needs a part to replace a worn out or damaged one on his particular model, most would prefer to find a part that will interchange without a lot of hassle or extra expense. For instance, one person said seats are interchangeable, but not all are without significant modification. It can be done and if one likes to tinker, all kinds of non Z model seats can be adapted as well, but strictly speaking not all S30 seats will practically. If you are just trying to replace that worn out passenger seat that your main squeeze is always bitchin about do you want to reinvent the wheel just so she'll cruise with you again? Think about it? Another mentioned bumpers as being interchangeable, but actually very few are without heavy and time consuming modification. Another waved off the problems of door part interchange, but wait until your 240Z door window gets smashed or your door regulator goes bad and the only parts car available in the junk yard is a 260Z with the thin looking 240Z style bumpers. To an untrained eye, the 260Z door window and regulator may look interchangeable, even after you pay for them and bring them home to swap them ou, but hours later, cursing everything in sight , you will have discovered that they are not. Hey, it's only time and money, right? So off you go again to the local pick and pull, out your money, to go "guess searching" once again. Anybody been there before? What if you had a Parts Interchange Guide with you the next time?? Same goes for some engine exhaust manifolds, header pipes, throwout bearings, transmission mounts, differentilal hanger bars, distributors, air flow meters, ECUs, driveshafts and some differential flanges, Questions: will all interior panels in all 240Z models interchange and fit properly amongst all years? Are all steering wheel column surrounds interchangeable? Do all gauges, fuse blocks, head light & turn signal switches, wiper motors, consoles and bumpers interchange properly within all 240Z models? Will all gas tanks interchange on all S30 models or at least will all 280Z tanks interchange within that model series? What about bumper end pieces on just the 77-78 models? Are all S30 windshields interchangeable? What I am driving at is that although the Hybridz spirit here is strong on adaptation, modification and fabrication, setting out to purchase many used parts for your S30 cars can turn into a nightmare of hassle and failure if you are not equipped with either a lot of hard earned experience or a little handy Parts Interchange Guide such as what I mentioned before. Being in the parts business for over 16 years now, I have answered thousands of phone calls and emails from parts buyers which ask endless questions about what they can swap into what. Trying to serve them over the years has taught me to be very careful about shipping out just any old part from any old model year. These days I deal with many sub groups of the Z community which make very different demands upon me as a used parts source. Collectors and restorers especially are becoming the most demanding about finding only the most original and best quality used parts proper to their car's production date. Racers are after "trick" parts that they can swap in or modify legally to maintain a competive edge. Hybridz'ers constantly want me to solve "mix and match" problems in order to install the latest trendy hot mod on their project cars while many daily driver types just want to fnd the correct OEM part that will tix their cars so they can get to work the next day. So, in short, before anyone tries to tell ya "virtually all S30 parts interchange with little or no hassle", think again. The friendship, marriage or life you save by knowing your interchange facts in advance may be your own! OK guys, ball's in somebody else's court,

About the "just about everything will swap between 240Zs and 280Z" comment above, you are dead wrong. Even though all were designated "S30" bodies, Nissan re-engineered and restamped the Z body and doors 5 times between 1970 and 1978. Although many parts will interchange properly, an amzing amount will not. To save time and money when buying and hassling with swaps and installation it is wise to be well informed so you will not ind out the hard way by trial and error. If many of you are interested in finding out what parts will and will not swap, best economical set of info I can recommend for quick answers is the small, but super informative publication titled Parts Interchange Guide, that I sell on my website at http://zparts.com/literature/icminfo.html I carry it everywhere I go. It's save me tons of money and time over the years. Larry, did you know that I have an even more graphic photo comparison on my ZPARTS.COM website between the big and small "pumpkins" you referred to above. Link to that photo is at http://zparts.com/zptech.html half way down the page.

Apparently this thread is unaware of the set of photos I published this week at my website showcasing first photos of a VH45 V8 test fit into a 240Z that shows very important clearance issues and the possibility that such a swap is doable. Link to first set of photos is in Featured Z Car Projects Index at ZPARTS.COM So far I have not had time to organize all my notes and facts on this particular swap well enough to publish them, but I'd like to mention that I know of a very talented Datsun engine swapper in the US that has deep connections with auto salvage yards in Japan. According to him the VH45 V8 has a baby brother, VH41 I believe, that is 1.5-2" narrower at it's widest measurement compared to the VH45. He has had a VH41 V8 sitting in his garage for over a year now waiting for a 240Z to drop it into. His family responsibilites not withstanding, he has promised to send me project photos and write up once he gets started. If I understood him correctly, he intends to fabricate his custom intake system and brackets as well as relocate several accessories that several other posters have referred to as troublesome. Last I spoke to him the question of finding a manual transmission to fit the VH series engine had not been totally resolved, but I believe he told me that he had information on trans that would bolt up with modest customizing. The guy's engine swapping projects have slowed down in the past year due to new family demands, but I know he will be going to Japan soon to import assorted rare engines and performance parts for RB and VH engines if he can track them down. When I learn more I will publish it at ZPARTS.COM

These Pantera style hatch replacements date back many years and I believe more than one design was sold. What's kind of desturbing about them is how little cargo space is left over under the hatch after the fiberglass insert is installed. I have photographed several Z constructed in the late 70's that had them. One can be seen on my site at in the 2000 West Coast Nationals section I also photographed another style at Z Fest 2002 in Fremont, CA. Young owner from Washington state discussed design differences of his at length. I'll publish photos of his design later on at my ZPARTS.COM website.

Oh, and I forgot to comment in my previous post on someone's remark in this thread about no 70-78 Z cars ever being produced with factory installed sunroofs. Anybody want to bet on that one?

ROX510 and ALL: Maybe I can add a few helpful comments to this thread based on experience. 1. I believe Nissan changed it's Z venting design from the hatch to rear of quarter glass area because low pressure at back of car was causing exhaust gases to be sucked back into hatch vents located in the low pressure area of lower hatch. Most likely the relocation was also a cost cutting measure considering the complexity of the hatch vent design compared to a simple vent on the side pillar stamped into the unibody. 2. I do not presently have an early unibody at my parts yard to double check for accuracy of my presumptions, but if you remove the interior panels from the quarter window area, most likely you will discover that the unibody structure will have a hollow area between the outside skin where later model quarter window vents were installed and the interior unibody panel. This is how the unibody on side vented models was manufactured. If this hollow area is on your early model, then you most likely could upgrade your early 240Z body to quarter window side vents with a little creative drilling and modest cutting. Be sure to rust proof your cut areas before installing any vent cover. Note: My guess is that the side vent design made 2 important improvements to the Z interior air flow. 1. It reduced gases being sucked back inside the car and 2. it improved fresh air flow past both the door and quarter window areas thus helping to quickly clear off rainy day fog up of interior window glass while all windows were closed up. 3. All 240Z, 260Z and 280Z hatches from 70-78 coupes will physically interchange properly on all models with the exception of the venting system not functioning on 70-mid 71 models. Main difference between and 240Z hatches and later ones was that, even though R & L hatch strut mounting bosses were stamped into all hatches, only the 74-78 hatches had threaded holes installed in them to allow mounting of R gas strut brace whereas the 240Z was only set up for one on the left. Note 1 : due to 240Z having only a left hatch support installed, it appears to me that otherwise straight 240Z hatches I remove from cars appear to be slightly warped diagonally due to years of owner pushing down on non-braced side when closing hatch. This subtle warping can result in a hatch that will never quite seal properly nor align properly before final paint. Although not original to the 240Z, I often recommend using 74-78 hatches as replacements. Note 2: Apart from the above mention "warp", other major concerns with choosing a quality used hatch are the following: 1. Damage to upper hinge tangs welded to hatch is common. Check for stress cracks, rust rot, and shoddy repairs to these tangs. Also carefully eyeball and hand feel the horizontal flat metal portion above the hatch glass that closes close to rear of roof line. Improperly adjusted hatches, broken hinge tangs or loose hinges frequently result in a hatch being opened in such a way that upper edge catches and binds at roof edge often resulting in permenent damage to upper hatch lip from just one binding. Very easy to happen and very difficult to ever repair properly. Double check this area very carefully before you purchase a used hatch or you will be sad later. 2. Large sheet metal area at bottowm of hatch glass area where push down lock release mounts, is prone to permenent stretch and warping due to being poorly reinforced from behind. Although this warping is almost unavoidable on a 30 year old Z hatch, additional bondo repairs in this area can lead to cracking in paint after little use on a freshly painted Z hatch. Inspect this area carefully before you buy. 3. Rust cancer behind hatch glass weatherstrip is often hidden from view on a used hatch. Rust bubbles around rubber is best clue that glass and rubber will need to be removed for repairs before a quality paint job can be applied or you will pay the price soon for not heeding the visible warning. Upon glass removal of both the hatch glass and windshield weather stripping, I have sometimes found entire metal backing areas rust through making repairs difficult. 4. Modest rust cancer in the factory stamped seam underneath the lower hatch lip that hangs above the tail lights is inevitable to find on most hatches. Finding one with the least amount of rust along this seam and then treating it with rust prevention inhibitors is the best defense strategy an owner can usually attempt, to my knowledge. Maybe RacerX can offer better advice regarding this last concern. ps 1, I have photo documented all the above common used hatch defects described above. Maybe during the winter I will be able to publish these photos along with a tech write-up at ZPARTS.COM to help you all search for quality hatches. ps 2, btw, I think I have at least 2 above average quality hatches here for sale, one 240Z and one off a 77 280Z Bad news is that it very time consuming and expensive for me to crate and ship these hatches. Hence, I only sell them to local buyers or buyers that will prepay and arrange for transport from their end. Hope that helps a wee bit. Eric Neyerlin - owner of ZPARTS.COM aka:

Martin, I am curious to see what you came up with. Please mail me a copy of your effort if that is OK? zcarphotos@attbi.com

RacerX, Nope, haven't heard where they came from or of who has them now, but you might give Don Potter a call in Fremont. I've heard he may have been pretty buddy buddy with Frank back in his early racing days.

Follow up note on the question of building a lighter 280ZX performance body. At my shop I have the original fiberglass molds for Frank Leary's white and green IMSA style 280ZX race car. At this point the molds are becoming pretty aged, even bent out of shape on some molds, but if someone could resurrect these molds, they'd produce one hell'va dramatic looking hybrid ZX car and save you a lot weight as well. The front nose/air dam piece alone is quite dramatic and somewhat similar to the front look of Terry Oxendale's car. All total there are 7 pieces to the mold set. 1 front nose/air dam (in good condition) and 2 each of the R & L sides for huge, integrated, front and rear flared fenders and door skins. If you go to zhome.com or do a search for Frank Leary's Nissan racing history on the internet, you might find a photo showing how cool his IMSA race car looked made from these molds. Sorry to say, i do not have a photo in my archives that I can easily find to display here or I would have. I do not have the knowledge to assess whether these mold can be re-used or not, but please, if you don't have fiberglass experience, don't even entertain the idea of messing with these. Only competent, experienced, fiberglass workers should even bother to inquire. If some of you think you qualify and are willing to pay a reasonable price, I'd be willing to entertain serious offers Also, I prefer that buyer be local (but am flexible) and able to inspect in person because I do not want to ship these large parts nor mislead anyone as to there potential for reuse. I can be reached at eric@zparts.com 510-233-2624

IMO, This is not a photo that such ps painting can easily be done on. You must start from a medium to light gray car shot in the proper light to properly paint it. Other colors and dark tones can be work from, but it still needs to be shot in the correct light. Terry and I have discussed this question regarding selecting a color for his car several times. I believe he is working on a set of photos that may make ps painting possible later on. Interesting color scheme, btw. I gravitate toward the anthracite look myself. However, I suspect you will need a touch of pinstripe treatment between the black stripes and the gray or it my look too understated.

TomoHawk You might consider investing in an inexpensive ($10) parts interchange guide such as I sell at http://www.zparts.com/literature/icminfo.html It will serve you for many years past the point of just using it to find the correct hinge for your car. It will show you clearly that Nissan used 3 different upper and 2 different door hinges on 70-78 Z cars. Try to install the wrong one from the wrong production date and most likely your door will not close or latch properly, but I do not know that for certain. btw, I propably have door hinges from all 70-78 models as well if you can't find the correct one in your area. .

3 comments. 1. Most likely the E88, no matter what version of the 3 made, will result in compression ratios too high for turbo applications on top a L28, but I am not totally certain of that. Ask the turbo experts first. 2. E88s that came on 260Z cars had 280Z sized exhaust valves stock, thus making them less expensive t convert to use with L28 eng combos. (half the amount of valves and seats to change to larger type for good air flow) 3. Presently I have both 260Z style E88 heads and one P90 core head for sale "CHEAP" in case anyone is interested. I am liquidating a lot of my excess Z engine head stock in case anyone is in need. Eric Neyerlin of ZPARTS.COM

All I can add is "GOOD LUCK" on that pie in the sky idea. I think you better use your tape measure next if your eyes keep telling you "yes"

Tomohawk, Speak of the silver paint devil! How curious that you should ask that! I just did a sales inspection of a west coast 240Z for sale for a potential buyer in Ohio yesterday. Strange coincidence was that the car's original black vinyl interior had been redone in SEM silver/gray paint. See one photo of painted visors and roof liner at http://www.zparts.com/nonlinked/rexj240z/images/DCP_5521.jpg For another spectacular use of the SEM paint check out photo I did of Pierre'z silver show car at MSA this year. URL is http://www.zparts.com/events/wcn2002/promo/image/DCP_3497.html Now, there's COLOR for ya!

Since this thread got resurected, I noticed that most of the links above to Tomahawk photos of mine are no longer valid bececause I decommissioned the server that they used to be on. The new home for most the Tomahawk Z kit info on on my main website is now located in the TOMAHAWK Z SHOWCASE section of my ZPARTS.COM site just in case any of you were wanting a peek at these cars. btw, a direct link to one shot of one style of dash made for the Tomahawk can be seen at http://www.zparts.com/showcase/tomahawk/index.html Others are set up with a car paint glossy style. Eric Neyerlin

Actually, a custom Targa like top has been designed and is almost ready for sale to Tomahawk Z owners. With some mods, a similar one probably could be designed to fit a coupe roof cut back to an acceptable position. The design for the Tomahawk convertible kits utilizes the cut out center roof section of 280ZX cars. You can see first photos of prototype at my ZPARTS.COM website at http://www.zparts.com/showcase/tomahawk/docs/hardtop_proto.html and at http://www.zparts.com/events/wcn2002/promo/image/DCP_3284.html

Thanks Pete, for filling in that bit of info on the guy. In many other ways, that guy had a great looking Z with some subtle, but unusual creative touches, such as the custom red "Z" logo on his fenders. I've got more photos of the car that I may publish later. To clarify my thoughts a bit more regarding chrome trim or not, like you say, the "black out" look can be quite attractive on a Z car. Personally, I usually like the non emblem and/or removal of dated bright trim work. on most HybridZ cars, but much depends upon the color of the car and/or whether ALL bright trim is removed or not. What is disturbing to me is when only select pieces are removed while others are left intact as a rather confusing custom statement. IMO, the design changes have to be consistent from front to rear with either bright trim, very little or none. What I think is a bit tricky to pull off is a very dark car with no bright trim nor pin stripping along curves and bottom edges of car. Very easy to end up with too much understatement. In my area there is an all black Tomahawk car with no bright trim that looks noticably non exciting whereas there is a near identical one owned by the designer, Rory Bateman, that has very subtle, almost invisible dark red pinstripping along the bottom, along key curves and along a few blacked out trim pieces and the effect really makes the car stand out even though many at shows do not even remember seeing the dark red pinstripping on the car! Anyway, I was thinking along similar lines when I mentioned the inportance of chrome accent trim being desirable as a part of a finished tail light design, but I suggested that approach specifically for cars that have the majority of bright trim still attached to them. A "black out" design does not especially need that look unless it si deemed attractive similar to what you alluded to.