nmehdikh

I had a couple questions about your setup, and I'm hoping I understand this all correctly. So you are running the Tank inc (this one?) and you are feeding a surge tank in your engine bay, then the high flow pump feeds your fuel rail? Why the surge tank and second pump? Doesn't the little baffled reservoir solve the surge tank problem? and doesn't the pump in the tank provide high pressure already? Why not just run a high pressure line from the tank, to the fuel rail, then to the regulator, then back? What am I missing here? I'm going to be following your thread closely and asking you a ton of questions as you seem to be going through the same process I will be going through. One more question, you ran 3/8in supply and the factory supply as return. But the pump comes with 1/4in inlet and outlet, did you change those?

Car is a 1973 240z Both Zcar and atlanticZ list the half-shaft ujoints as D: 28.02mm and L of 52.9mm Oreilly has them at D28.02mm by L of 56mm Autozone has them at D24.99mm by L of 44mm NAPA has them at D28.02mm by L of 56mm Zcar depot has two different ones A and B with no specs Zstore lists no specs either... So.... which the hell do I buy?I just need some cheapo replacements. They don't need to withstand tons of power, or last forever.

Thanks for the link. Wouldn't 48mm be too big for each one? Regarding pedal throw, that's valuable information. My car currently has a cable linkage, so it might be fairly easy to rig up a cam deal to make it more progressive. @Derek - I agree with your staged approach and was planning on getting ignition going first, and making sure the ECU was reading all the inputs correctly before tackling EFI. When you say lambda system, do you mean just o2 sensor? Or am I missing something? Regarding the ignition situation, can you look over this and see if I'm missing anything? 1) Crank sensor here and hall sensor here 2) 02 sensor + bung for header 3) megasquirt3 with MS3X expansion here 4) wiring harness for above here 5) LS2 truck coils, D585 (the ones that have the igniter built in) 6) pig tail connectors for the coils 7) short spark plug wire to go from LS2 coils to plugs That should be enough to get me control of my ignition and see my o2 levels?

Tony D, the motor will eventually get forged pistons. It has a slightly aggressive cam right now. But I'm not really going to take it apart just yet, since it's running like a champ, but in the future yes. Question about injector placement. I've read conflicting information about where exactly the injector should be located along the manifold. Closest to the head as possible? It's fine where it is now? (inside the motorcycle ITB) And what about angle of the injector? Off the top of their head, does anyone know the spacing on the intake manifold? The Daytona 675 throttle bodies can be easily taken apart and spaced to the proper distance, but I'm worried about minimum distance.

Objective? Well I bought a 40 year old car for no good reason other than to burn through money and maybe learn a thing or two. Hopefully, with the added side effect of having a car that is fun to drive. Realistically, I know a swap would probably be the easier/cheaper/ well documented route. But I like the L26, and I've been itching to learn more about EFI, and ITBs so this is a good excuse. I saw a couple of Derek's posts about his new head he's been working on. I'll go dig through some of his other stuff.

Solid information guys, I appreciate it and I'll do some more reading. So far, what I learned regarding the ITB setup, I may be best served with a MAP sensor instead of a MAF. Plumbing the MAP sensor to a small plenum then to the individual runners. Here is a pretty good read. Regarding ITBs, and the Jenvey website you linked. I have two questions. 1) Whats the difference and purpose between the different bore types? Parallel bore, tapered bore etc. 2) How do I determine what size throttle bodies to use on the L26 if I am using 6 of them?

Car is a 73 240z, motor is an L26, will eventually see track time. So, the car is currently running an edelbrock single carb, and pertronix ignition. Attached is a pic of the engine bay as it sits right now. I'd like to move towards EFI, and possibly even COP for spark. So there are going to be a lot of dumb questions here, and I'd like some clarification if you guys can provide it. I'm an idiot and trying to learn as I go along As of right now, I can think of two possible routes to go. If you guys have other ideas, I'm all ears. 1) pull off the edelbrock carb, and replace it with one of those four barrel EFI systems. Something like this. Find one that works off of megasquirt, and use the pertronix as a halls effect sensor? This requires just one 02 sensor in the exhaust correct? The air sensors are built into the four barrel EFI? 2) ITB route? Get one of these. Then try to fab of motorcycle throttle bodies to it? Maybe off of a ZX-12R? What size would I need for the L26? For the motorcycle ITB route, is there only a single MAF or MAP? Or do I need to put one in each runner? Or are they usually built into the throttle body? How about o2 sensors? do they use use a single one as well? Or one per cylinder? Sorry if these questions are basic/dumb. I'm trying to understand how all of this works.

Saw this on craigslist. Somewhat tempting to turn into a weekend toy. I've owned/daily driven plenty of old cars (45+ year olds), but this would be my first Z and V8. Is the price reasonable? I think I could talk him down a bit, but what do you guys think overall? Besides general old car stuff, what should I look out for on a swapped Z? http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5962169080.html "260z early build...has 350sbc with 220/212 .440 lift cam refreshed rods and pistons 10.5.1 comression..holly double pumper carb.vortech heads..new radiator.new starter....new oil pan...car lowered wit tokito regular shocks up front and adjustable on the rear...and is very light weigh...15x8 and 15x9 0 offset rims with Muncie 4 speed m20 with r200 lsd with rare 4.11 gears... the car 0 rust i reapeat 0 rust...the floor boards have been replaced had rust originally all the lights work.has a hurst short throw shifter.......the car makes 280whp...fast and ready for new home...9.5k $"