zboi

I just tried driving around with the block breather hose disconnected, which would be analogous of the dual vents/catch cans. Still have the leak showing up and only under boost. I'm thinking this is bad valve stem seals, I can smell the oil start to leak and burn as soon as the boost starts kicking in good. I also had the breather hose positioned where I could see it while driving, and didn't notice any crazy amount of mist or smoke. However, after doing some boosted runs I see some white smoke in the valve cover area, and it smells like burning oil.

Probably also important, the engine is a L28, and the PCV valve is the factory one (as far as I know). I just read there is supposedly a difference in the turbo and non-turbo PCV valve. Is that true?

I'm experiencing some high crankcase pressure when in boost, to the point where I have oil coming from the dipstick (seal on that is worn out so I can maybe fix that) and also also shooting like a jet out of the timing cover to cylinder head junction. The timing chain to cylinder head junction is due to the head gasket having torn there. Now I'm not 100% as I haven't been able to look at the leak under boost, but the aftermath is oil getting all the way to the firewall and shock towers with oil puddles at that gasket junction, so I'm suspecting there is some high pressure involved. My current PCV is the factory block tube to manifold, PCV valve seems to work fine from the me blowing in it test, and then a valve cover breather. I see people recommending instead of the breather going to the air filter, but I just have a cone filter directly on the turbo, and not sure how I would achieve that. Is there any other advice how to remedy this? I really really don't want to pull the head to replace that gasket, and it does not leak at all while not under boost (plus this would just make the next weakest link leak. I'm surprised that the pressure isn't relieved by the valve cover breather honestly. Compression is showing pretty good 165 on 5 cylinders 175 on another, but no idea on what the mileage on this motor is.

Finally got this thing tuned right, kept fighting an issue where the car would break up on quick throttle changes and in boost. Engine had NGK b6es-11 plugs, I went to a NGK bpr7es and all my problems disappeared. Engine is leaking oil pretty bad though from what looks like where the timing cover and cylinder head meet, l am genuinely amazed at how much oil can come out of there. The stock head gasket was torn there, and I RTVed it up a lot after the fact. Maybe my PCV valve is faulty and pressurizing that area under boost? Once I get this oil leak handled Ill take it to the dyno.

You can get it for $170 from other places like autozone

Are these the plugs near the center console? If so probably electric fuel pump wires.

If my L28 poops out I'll put one of these in. Looks like it will fit with oil pan modification and crossmember modification, or with a competition hood. He incorrectly states that the E67 ECU is not the one to get for boost, no idea why he is pushing that lie, but it is the best one for boost. I am using it now.

Alrighty got it driving now. First issue was my brand new Bosch O2 sensor was bad, it was always reading the same value. Swapped with an AC Delco and it was fine. Second my scan tool was by default adding bank 1 and bank 2 O2 sensor readings together, problem being there is no bank 2 so bank 2 was always pegged rich and throwing off the reading. Using just the bank 1 reading things are looking great. Will dial the tune in all the way and then connect the charge pipe for some boost. This poor little L28 has been through so much abuse lol.

Crank angle sensor is mounted on just a piece of flat steel, using one of the bolts off the oil pump. I actually reused a piece of the steel bar that normally goes on the oil pan to "distribute the load".

Probably better to look around haltech forum, they have better documentation

Tuning this thing has been difficult. Keeps saying that its running way rich, even when I've adjusted the VE table down like 90%. One issue that bit me, I had swapped cylinder 4 and 2 because the internet said the firing order was different between the L28 and atlas. Well the internet as usual is filled with idiots. The firing order is the same between the motors, noticed something off when rough idle wouldn't go away and the 4/2 cylinders felt a lot cooler.

Downpipe is on. Just need to finish up the cold side.

58x reluctor for a Chevy 2.4 ecotec came in. It is neutral balanced, lighter, and conveniently has 3 holes for bolts that are exactly in the same place as the pulley face. If you wanted you could drill and tap the pulley and this would screw on. I just put some plug welds on instead. Engine now runs normal! It is leaking some oil from where the timing cover meets the cylinder head. The head gasket overhanging bit was all broken when I pulled the timing chain cover and I didn't want to pull the head to change it. Seems a lot more oil leaks down there than I expected, hopefully some beads of RTV on the exterior fix that.

I picked up this ECU with all the sensors, throttle body, injectors, coils, etc. for $250 so HUGELY cheaper. You will need to tune it, which can be done by mail for a bit more or by yourself like me (I've done a few LS swaps so had HPTuners). There are on/off pins for cruise control from the E67 ECM I'm using, haven't ever tried to use it. On an older gen IV LS swap with a 4l60 I did there were a number of cruise control wires. I didn't hook it up, but I did hook up the automatic crank to start feature which was nice. Made the car feel real modern. 4l60/5 will fit in the tunnel fine, and handle the power easy. Especially since they were designed for 4000lb SUVs. The auto is easier on the rest of the drivetrain too.

Lots of space under there. I'm using 2.125" for the collector merge to 2.25" tubing ending with a tiny bit of 2.5" for the turbo flange.

Yep crossover under the oil pan, didn't like any of the aftermarket turbo manifolds and nobody was selling a stock turbo one for a reasonable price. Was going to use the stock NA manifold but it was cracked, so modified an aftermarket header.

Did some rudimentary balance testing of the LS 58x ring. It is indeed super out of balance. Waiting on my order of the 2.4 ecotec reluctor. Got the hot side buttoned up in the mean time, little Chinese t04e. Sprung for the billet compressor though, had to modify the waste gate mount to fit. I noticed the bolt nearest the inlet that holds the compressor on goes all the way through so I slapped some thread sealer on it.

I was hoping it would be close to neutral balanced, but looking at the LS crank there is a locating hole in the crank snout in the middle of where the holes are missing in this ring. So probably is a good bit out of balance. There is a solid version of this for sale, and also a different version for the 2.4L engines. The 2.4L version looks neutral balances, I think may be worth getting that one instead, it's the same price.

$22 later I have a 58x reluctor for an LS. I 3d printed a little jig to center it on the crank pulley, worked perfectly. Just a couple tacs to the pulley to hold it on and it's done.

Got everything together for some real runs. Engine was running not great, as if it would run okay for 1/2 the time and not for the other half the time. Looking at logs the RPM signal was all over the place. Then I realized I screwed up. The 58x signal I'm giving it is per 180 degrees of crank rotation instead of 360, so the computer is probably freaking out. I'll need to either add an some embedded system to convert the waveform, or get a 58x wheel.

False, TR6060 mount is in the same spot as the T56 (or at least super close). I used a CxRacing T56 transmission crossmember on a TR6060 no issue.

Here is the how much I took off of the flywheel teeth on the stock style flywheel, and then the aftermarket one. As you can see there is still plenty of tooth left for the starter to grab.

I'll post a pic when I get the engine back off, but I ground them down to about half height. It is enough gap to look like a missing tooth, but still ample tooth for the starter to grab.

Alrighty somewhat to my amazement I got everything wired and it fired right up! One extra change that I forgot to mention above is that the firing order is different between these engines so you will need to swap the pins for cylinder 4 and 2 on the ECU connector. Will post some videos of it running later, right now its not plumbed up to run for more than a second. Will be pulling the engine to swap in the lightened flywheel and stronger clutch, welding the turbo pipes, etc. But for anyone wondering this does work if you follow my instructions.