240zdan

mine: RB26 bellhousing will accept a 2000 honda crv clutch slave. after getting quoted $100 for a gtr clutch slave, i found a 2000 honda crv (b20) clutch slave to be usable. just drill out the holes on the slave to accept the larger bolts and use spacers underneath it to position so it has clearence from the tranny. (i used large nuts) also, i broke out my mig and laid a couple beads on the end of the rod that meets up with the cluttch fork. not sure if this is needed but just in case the crv slave didnt have enough travel i did this. works flawlessly. you can also use threaded rod to make it adjustable although not necesarry IMO. for the clutch line cut a few mm off the threads of your stock 240z clutch line and use a new crush washer. best par about this is its $30 opposed to $100 (skyline tax). plus if it ever goes bad, i can get the part from my local parts store instantly for dirt cheap. now share your ghetto rb part swappage/fixes.

I have been working through the bugs of my rb26 powered Zed. I am running the stock turbos, ecu, and mafs. Does ANYONE here have any photos of how they routed their intake piping? My MAF is only a few inches from the turbo, and I get very bad popping, hesitation, and very poor power/gas milage. The other maf (rear turbo) is about 16" away from the turbo, so i think that ones fine. Any info/suggestions please. This is definetley my problem, as unplugging the mafs and running on limp mode makes the car run better at lower rpms. with the mafs plugged in i am constantly flooring it just to make it up a hill. I am ready to bite the bullet and buy standalone if thats what it takes, I cant stand my car driving like this.

one intake it is then... thanks for replies

sigh... any educated replies?

i am finishing up the engine bay of my rb26dett 240z and was wondering if anyone here has ever recirced their bov back into one turbo intake pipe only and have had the engine not run rich between shifts. recirculating back into one intake would be alot simpler for me. no need for y pipes etc.

Mckinney chargers $400 for wiring? What do they do exactly? For that kind of price Id be expecting a brand new engine wiring harness.

Here are my expenses so far: Engine: $2000 RB26 tranny: $300 300zx tranny: $300 Custom oilpan: $750 Fuel cell, inline pump, braided fuel lines and fittings: $1200 Intercooler: $100 W/P, Clutch slave, misc junk: $300 So far $4950, and maybe another $1000 or so to go. I was considering a l28et before this, but I could easily rack up the same amount into a l28et The rb26 will do 350hp out of the box

insane. rear end info?

sparco seats and rollbar worked on my fuel system today. fuel sump with -8 braided lines and aeroquip fittings/walbro 255inline pump also fixed my parking brake. Hopefully will be more progress next weekend.

Ill snap a more clear picture if youd like, but basically the shifter is directley bolted to the shift rod elminating the u joints. all thats needed after that is a pivot point so the shifter can move forward and back. This is where the hyme joints and steel rod are allowing the shifter to pivot forward and backward as well as side to side I chose to use steel rod because I couldnt find any correct threaded ready rod for the hyme joints, but that would have been a much more professional approach, as then you would be able to adjust the angle of the shifter by simply removing your center console/shift boot and adjusting the length of the rod.

Hey everyone. I am fairly new to this site, have been lurking for a while now researching and gathering information. Anyhow, I Have been working on my RB26dett 240z project for a few weeks and thought I would share the progress. It all started after seeing a datsun 240z on craigslist for $1500 in seattle. I had been happily working on/racing my CRX at the time and just finished the build, awaiting larger injectors and more boost. I sold that bitch to feed my 240z addiction. I didnt even get a chance to fully break in the motor. Oh well, we all know FWD sucks anyways. Me and my dad drove out to get the 240z as a restoration project. After I saw the car and how sweet it was I knew I had to get my own. Here is a pic of the first car we bought in its current state. It will be a beautiful car when done. The color is 350z red. Its undergoing a full restoration. So the hunt began. It started out with this car which was for sale locally. Too rusty and too many missing parts. For parts it became. Then I bought this car. It came with triple webers, a nice header, crack free dash, alot of nice parts. The car itself was ok, it needed a bit of work was the first impression. After taking it apart I realized it was rusted beyond repair. For parts again. You can see the orange 240z flipped on its side in the background. At this point I am extremely frustrated with finding a clean 240z and decide I want to keep the crx. Then this car came up for sale. A shot of the car after a I threw some of my parts on it. This car has almost no rust. This is the one. The engine. Z32 tranny mated to RB26 bellhousing with custom shifter. The shifting feels very solid and will allow me to place the engine very close to the firewall while still more or less keeping the stock shifter location. Z32/RB26 speed sensor. Will be modifying the Z32 shaft and gear to fit in the rb26 housing to keep factory cable speedo. More on this later. The engine is currently awaiting a custom oilpan, custom gt2860r ball bearing turbos from my work, and a timing belt and water pump. Then it will be ready for engine mount mock up/installation. I want to see how far I can push the car with a stock clutch. Hoping for low 12s. No major goals other than to get the car running. Next year the car will be built to handle some serious power.

Thank you! Pictured saved in a safe spot

Interesting. Thanks for the advice and motivation. The responses Im getting here are alot different than the responses offered on classic z carb club. Looks like Ill be sticking around here.

Did some poking around. Here is the worst of it. Since this will be a modified car, I may just end up fixing it. No point hacking up a clean car just yet. What you guys think? By the way, I do ALOT of rust repair all of this will be done myself, and I paid 750 for the vehicle. the frame rails are solid. just innder fenderwells need patching.

Hey, I am new to this site. After toying with hondas for 5 years Ive decided its time for a change and picked up a 240z. The car has had a lot of work done to it, the floorboards and rearquarters were replaced and a few NOS parts here and there. Whoever owned it took great care of it until it was left for 10 years. Plans for this car are a rb25 swap. I need some advice on the rad support. This is the only part of the car needing repair. I was thinking of cutting out the front lower support and replacing it with new square tubing with gussets to reinforce. The rusted area of the rad support I was going to cut out to make room for intercooler piping. Any advice? Can you buy replacment front rad supports? after welding spoiler holes shut arears needing repair