240zdan

going to look nice once its done!

im going to criticize. first off your car would look 100x better with a bumper and stock grill. second the engine bay makes me feel like i just arrived at an all you can eat spaghetti factory. sorry. i know its criticism but i dont like it at all! good news is it can be fixed, and if you dont do it the next owner will!!

i love it!!!!!!!!!!!!! but i cant belive im seeing u joints on the rear of that thing!

looiks good and gets the job done

or a rb26 bellhousing with a Z32 trans. That ended up costing me $600 and I still have a rb26 tranny to sell to a high hp GTR owner who just broke his. rb25det trans are rare and expensive. I have a good solution for the z32 shifter, if you want pics let me know and ill post them up.

Its normal.

yeah... hes definetley going to regret selling the best damn 260z i have ever seen in my entire life

mods are 12 psi.. feels alot faster. im going to turn it up to 15 psi pretty soon. after that its a set of gt2860s most likely with a tomei oil pump and apexi power fc or AEM (havent decided) and a good clutch. The 240z will not need any more power after that for a street driven car.

screw the nur spec.. i want the engine from the mines skyline!

I like them.. dont plan on changing them anytime soon. Theyre dirt cheap and make the car look good. Ill spend my money on the suspension instead

Well like stated, the flange can be swapped out for a regular one, whether or not this is confirmable I will find out. Otherwise it appears to be a regular shortnose r200. I am using 4 GTR rear cvs and will be ordering the MOOser axles. The rest of the stuff is pretty straight forward. Redrilled rear mustahce bar, custom front diff mount, Companion flange adaptors for the rear ( I have a set ready to be welded up which i have machined, just need to find 280z companion flanges to match my 280z stubs) and custom driveshaft I cant wait to get this thing in! 4.11 and factory low milage LSD! As soon as it goes in im taking it to the industrial area by my house and laying down some SERIOUS rubber!!!!!!

thanks!

badass! I saw this video and thought it was the coolest thing. Rip that frenchie motor out and put some real japanese muscle in there!

The backlash in the diff shouldnt be an issue as slack is taken up as the right foot goes down. Would just cause an annoying thud. Could also be the indication of a worn diff. My diff howls, creaks, grinds, whines and makes every worst possible noise imaginable. At low speeds it sounds like a train, at high speeds it sounds like my car has straight cut gears. I have slop in the input flange (where the tailshaft connects to). I am assuming that this is causing misalignment of the pinion with the crown, causing a notchy vibration thats felt throughout the whole rear end of the car. (think bearings that have been preloaded too tight, that notchy gritty feeling). Since my problems occur at any speeds, they are most noticable at higher speeds since I cant really feel much in 1st and 2nd as the revs come up quick (tires let loose). I am not saying this is your problem, but since this started happening when you swapped in the r200, maybe its worth checking out. Check out the driveline angles first, obviously. Maybe the mounting of the r200 screwed them up somehow. You cant really do this by guessing, you need to measure the angles. Google driveline angles and youll find tons of sites explaining how. If you have an iphone you can download a sweet digital angle program for free of itunes, works great and is very accurate. If your angles check out then pull out that diff and replace it with a known good one. Not worth rebuilding IMO, unless its an LSD. Since youre running a rb25, you should really consider putting in an lsd. Since the longnose z31 lsd is impossible to find and very expensive, shortnose is the way to go. I am putting a GTR lsd with 4.11 into mine. Will cost me a few bucks but it is half the car after all.

Getting it at 3 degrees is tough since the driveshaft is so short. I guess installing a shortnose diff will help with the situation a bit. Since your vibrations started when you swapped in the r200, I would start by checking the condition of the diff. See if there is any play in the pinion bearing. My current r200 is so worn that it makes my car sound like it has straight cut gears. I get some pretty nasty high speed vibrations and vibrations under acceleration/deceleration. I am certain its incorrect pinion/ring gear mesh and excessive pinion bearing slop (just as bad as a worn u joint) causing these problems. The problem only gets worse as the diff heats up. My driveline angles are parallel but my u joint angle is set at 5 degress. Im hoping with a shortnose and more tinkering with mounts i can get it under 3 degrees. Im almost certain the main problem lies in the condition of the diff. Vibrations from incorrect driveline angles are more of a rumble, I get a fast solid vibration coming directley from the rear end of the car.

Id bet youd pickup another 50hp or so by redirecting the wastegate dump away from the turbo inlet

Id like to see a dyno vid of the car actually making 600whp on the rollers. Regardless whether or not is has 600whp, how do you even produce those numbers on the dyno in such a light car without smoking the tires? Either way, even it makes 300whp, I can only imagine what its like to drive.

Not really interested in doing that. Not enough demand for them. id sell a couple or so if im lucky.

I woudlnt bother with the rb20 tranny. Its basically the same as a stock s30 trans or a 240sx trans. They arent meant to take the power of a rb26.

Once again to clear the confusion. I am talking about the rear driveshaft that runs down the middle of the car. The skyline gtr uses a cv joint on one end. In fact, the driveshaft is actually two piece. Driveline angles cannot be set the same as a u jointed shaft in this case. It only has a cv on ONE end. I already have this all figured out. Will post pics of the install once its done. I am not purchasing anythign here. Making everythign myself except for maybe the shortening of the rear axles. Depends if I can use the rotary table at work or not.

The R32 input flange comes off, will try swapping it with the one off my open r200 or get a q45 one if needed. The rear axles are already figured out. Im talking about the rear driveshaft. It uses a cv instead of a u joint. Got it all figured out though. Will start the fabrication this week.

I am about to put a r32 GTR lsd into my 240z. Has anyone here utilized the stock GTR driveshaft? It has a U joint on one end and CV joint on the end that goes to the diff. Does anyone know what type of angles are necesarry to make it work? I want to use all the GTR components and avoid swapping the companion flange with a Q45, plus I think a CV joint would equal to a smoother running drivetrain. I was going to use the Z31 yoke on the tranny side and the GTR cv on the other side and get a custom retube done on the dhaft specific to my length, but im just unsure about what angles are required. is it the same parallel rule or does the diff have to be inline with the tranny and pointing straight at it?

yes it would but i have no problem with fitting 225 50 16 on there right now. no rubbing at all.

I plan on switching to a 205/50/16 on the front for a bit of stretch and a bit of a staggered look.. will post pics when its done.