240zdan

Also interested in this. I want to replace my stock fan with somethign stronger...

I know exactly what you are talking about. When I do a 3rd gear pull on the highway and top out the revs, I realize Im already doing twice the posted speed limit, and I havent even got to shift once! Right now my 87 toyota 4x4 daily beater is more fun to drive around town since I actually shift gears and dont have the sluggishness the 3.3 provide. The 4.11 will be awesome! And I really think the 4.11 with a proper LSD, 15 psi of boost on stock turbos, a new exhaust system with properely designed downpipe and maybe a set of drag radials shoudl put this thing well into the 11s. Right now I cranked up the boost to 15 psi for the hell of it with the open 3.3 and its not even fun. I am laying one wheel patches everywhere, even when on the highway. Just drop it to 2nd and stomp on it. 2nd probably goes up to 90mph. haha

drag radials shoudl solve the no traction issue, i am just afraid to run them right now with the oem 240z stubs and halfshafts. converting to cvs and billet stubs to solve that

My traps were always within 1mph. A car that traps 10mph more than yours in a 1/4 mile is FASTER than yours. Trap speed tell you your power to weight. 1/4 mile tells you traction and setup like mentioned before by Bernardd. I really dont know where this is going. I like to have intelligent discussions on this forum but seems alot of the time Im arguing (or other people are arguing) about statements that make no sense. I dont care what you say, you may hang with your buddies GTO street racing for a few seconds but when it comes down to it he is going faster at the end of the 1/4 mile, therefore he accelerates faster than YOU. Simple isnt it? Whittie: a 3.5 isnt too far off from what I have now. I understand the concept of using lower gears with a boosted car but remeber I am still running a standard bore rb26 with very little bottom end grunt. I think a 3.7 would be ideal but id like to try the 4.11 and see what it feels like. If I dont like it I can always replace it with a different shortnose with different gearing..

please explain this. i understnd traps go down slightly when u hook but i dont believe that traps dont mean anything. they are a good indication of your power to weight, and a good indication of your lack of traction.

The reason why I choose 4.11 -Found one for cheap with CLSD with very low kms -Its what the GTR came with stock -It will improve acclereation and I will run a faster time, to those of you who say ill run slower, this is true if i have 600+hp thats why people go with 2 speed powerglides, but my car is sluggish of the start and does not utilize all 5 gears, or at least 4 I have seen it before with other cars a taller gear is worth .5 second in the 1/4 if youre still putting out relativley low power. I dynoed 310whp and consider this to be relativley low. Tell you guys what I will try it out and run the car at the exact same boost level next year and tell you the results. If I dont get the results I want good part is I can always swap in another shortnose r200 with different gearing once I have all the fab work done.

Weight wouldnt have an effect of my gearing choice. My gearing choice is dependant on top speed, cruising rpm, and what gear/rpm i wish to be at the the end of the 1/4 mile. the 4.11, along with the holset hx40 pro and supporting mods is what im going with.

yeah the 3.3 is horrible, it would be ok if i had a v8 with 600hp but not for a little 2.6

Im almost certain i will run a faster timer with a 4.11 I think it would be on the verge of breaking loose in 3rd with a 4.11 with the amount of power it has right now, and then once it would be put into 4th to redline the acceleration would be much quicker than a long 3rd. im sure 100 or so more hp would be a different story.

A 4.11 will be ideal since i am using a z32 N/A tranny. I have calculated the top speed in 4th using a gear ratio calculator and gear ratio specs for a z32 n/a tranny and it will put me at redline in 4th at the end of the 1320, with a top speed of about 150mph+ in 5th. cruising rpm in 5th will only raise about 500-700rpms. With a clsd and a set of radials i think a 4.11 will really let the car perform to its full potential.. besides, this is what the r32 gtr came with stock (granted its awd, but still a rb26 s30 will have no traction, and rwd high hp will have no traction with street tires. gearing wont solve this issue) the rb26 is also a little soft on bottom end power so the gearing should help there.

i ran 3 times. 2nd time there was moisture on the track and i ran a 13.9 not really worried about 1/4 mile time other than the fact that i want to run a 11.9 on streets next year. the 1/4 ile is so dependant on 60 foot, and im not properely suited for launching the car at higher rpms with slicks. i was launching the car at idle when i ran those times. im concerned about trap, as this tells me what the car is capable of on the street at highway speeds. i think traping at the end of 4th would be beneficial. i dont need a 200+mph top speed anyways i cant wait to get the 4.11 in

i manged a 12.6@118mph 2.45 60 foot. the car has absolutley no traction in 1st or 2nd gear. my excuses are as follows (doesnt everyone always have those?) 3.3 open r200 (trapping almostr 120mph in 3rd gear) 12 psi boost, i tried inceasing to 1 bar but it would just spike to 1 bar and then settle to 12 psi. 48psi fuel pressure, a bit rich stock rb26 (thats right, stock... by that i mean stock rb26 mafs, stony. and stock conservative ecu.. hahaha) next season i plan to push the stock twins to a 125mph + trap and a high 11 on streets, i think the 4.11 lsd and a ebc will do it. i was also getting alot of wheel hope in 1st, but none in 2nd. i will change the rear lca bushings hopefully it will fix that. car feels awesome on the street i can only imagine 14.7 psi to redline.

yeah thats already been mentioned

its totalled? no ♥♥♥♥!

point taken... would you like me to edit the post?

If I were to do it again id probably go LS1. Its cheaper in the long run like everyone says. The rb26 is a more desirable engine however for the datsun since its a straight 6 and nissan.

Sorry dood. I wasnt trying to be mean. Hey its your car, do what you wish! Everyone has their own taste. Heres mine with the new look red car, just sits in the garage LOL feel free to criticize, thats why i post it up, to get new ideas/opinions!

I daily drive mine, its the reason I built it. Id hate to drive anything else

does it spin drag radials ( I assume thats what you are running on the street, or r compunds) in 4th when driving as well? If so thats insane! What type of gearing do you have and what is your top speed in 4th. If youre running the tires you have in the pic then all I have to say is congratualtions on the dyno queen!

The purpose of this thread is to give people an idea of what type of torque you are applying to a certain type of rear end. My setup is as follows Torque: 280wheel ft lbs Setup: Stock 240z stub axles, stock 240z halfshafts, R200 open rear end, 225/50/16 street tires I am about to upgrade my rear end and would like as much input as possible. So far I have acquired/made: R32 gtr CLSD with 4.11 4 GTR cvs 280z stub axles custom made adaptors to fit GTR cvs I want to build a rear end to take 300-400 ft lbs of torque on sticky drag radials no problem. Please list your setup and how many ft lbs of torque you have dynoed, along with any breakages that may have occured. Discuss the TTT rear end kit, MM rear billet pieces, OEM pieces, anything that comes to mind.

so stony, whats the best solution here, are u saying i should just spring for the ttt rear end kit along with custom axles with r32 cvs? and then 5 bolt front hubs im assuming, along with redrilled rotors and new wheels? damn, my wallet just ran away! you dont think the MM rear billet stubs will hold up to a modest 300 ft lbs? How about modifying the rear axle carriers to accept r32 axles? lets just make a new thread discussing just this, in the drivetrain forum.

Stony, were you breaking 280z axles as well? I have a set of those but dont even know if its worthwhile to use them. may just get the billet ones from MM do you think the 280z ones will be ok for 300wftlbs of torque?

A 4.11 would put you right about at 120-125mph in 4th gear, depending on tire size. Its most ideal, especially for drag racing. I think a 4.64 would be ok but 1st 2nd would be totally useless and highway cruising would be horrible. I say wait it out and buy a 4.11