240zdan

With a setup like that you can run much more power than the s30 chassis will ever handle without serious mods. I plan on pushing 400whp+ with my stock motor and just ball bearing inconel wheeled turbos with a good standalone one day.

you end up replacing most of it, if not more, by making a bottom and top enclosure.

yes, that is a possibility. custom radiator overflow bottles may be in the works too.

depends how much capacity you want, how far back you place the motor, how big you want your sump, etc... ill take some measurments today. No idea if thsi will work on a 280zx as I have never owned one. EDIT: another thing to note, make the front part of the pan as shallow as possible to help with driveline angles yet still able to retain clearence between the pan and steering rack. i will end up using spacers between my subframe and frame rails to obtain proper driveline angles. im sure this is easily avoidable if you make the front part say 1 1/2" deep if it permits. measure the bottom of the windage tray to the block using verniers or blocks. id imagine youd want about 1/4" clearence between the windage tray and pan to let the oil drain out of the tray and stream into the sump. this will slightly reduce your capacity. you could also make the front part 2" deep and use subframe spacers like I am. lifting the tranny up is another option, but im limited since my custom shifter for the z32 trans will hit the drivetrain tunnel. right now im at about 5 degrees and will need roughly a 1/2" spacer or so to make it 3 or less.

impossible to tell in the vid but from the description it sounds like diff backlash or worn diff. check to see if u have any play on the inputshaft off the diff i know i have some and i get a fair bit of whine under acceleration. the only solution is to replace the diff and see if the problem goes away. also make sure nothing thats connected to the engine is touching the body such as exhaust, gearbox, etc... as this can amplify the normal sound of gears and bearings drastically.

it STILL looks LEAN. 13:1 AFR under boost? That cant be good. I would shoot for 13:1 N/A, 11.5:1 Boosted. I know you are still working on the fueling issue but still.. thats lean as hell It almost looks like the higher you rev, the better it gets. Maybe its a maf issue?

The purpose would be to eliminate the PCV valve and have a catchcan with larger lines to ventilate the vapours/contaminates into a "catch" can that catches all this wonderfull stuff. It can then be drained every now and then. The baffles in your L series valvecover (I have yet to see an engine without baffles) would do a good job of preventing oil from enterin gthe catchcan, or in th ecase of a stock setup, into your intake manifold. On a L series I would probably run a AN fitting from the valvecover and side of the block into the catchcan.

The drain was added afterwards. I see no reason why you would want to suck the oil vapours back into your intake and contaminate the charge pipes/turbos. The two 3/4" lines are more than adequate for venting the crankcase into the atmosphere, and if I wanted to create some sort of suction I would have probably ditched the filter and had a line running into the exhaust/downpipe with a slashcut. Either way part of the goal with a catchcan is to ventilate oil vapours/sludge in a fashion that doesnt introduce contamination back into your intake tract. Elimination of the PCV valve is another part. That stuff does not belong in there and the oil causes detonation, dirty throttle bodies, dirty compressor wheels, and dirty intake manifolds. You could also spend months figuring out whats the best way to ventilate your crankcase but I find venting into the atmosphere with at least two 3/4" or so lines is more than adequate.

I had a friend make up a custom catch can for my 240z, and hes looking to make more. Just wondering if there is any interest for these catchcans. They are made of aluminum and full tig welded construction. He can make them to fit either NPT or AN fittings. They are made to specifically fit the s30 inner fender. Here is a picture of what they look like. I will get a closeup picture tomorow. I am using it with an RB but it can be universal to any engine. For those who dont know a catchcan traps oil vapours from your crankcase and catchs them preventing oil vapours/sludge contamination onto your engine bay. A much more elegant approach then using KN filters on your valve covers. (please note the lines running on the valve cover are not finished this was just to demonstrate what it looks like.

If it were me, personally, I wouldnt drive the car, or at least under no circumstances hit boost until I'd have figured out what the issue is. Once I have an idea of what the issue is head back to the dyno and try again. Do you have any pics of your setup? What pump are you running? Intank, inline, surge tank, fuel cell?

im suprised the engine is still alive with an afr like that.

or just throw a fuel cell in the car with a 255lph inline pump.

1. depends where you buy it from. most expensive/hardest part will be finding a rear sump pan to clear your subframe. 2. my rb26 temp guage sender works with the stock guage, not sure about the rb20 one. you could always use a rb26 one if needed. to use the oil pressure guage you need to use the stock sender. the speedo will work as there are mechanical speedos available with some rbs. i modified the cable to work with a rb26 speedo driver. the tach wont work unless you swap out the guts of an autometer tach into the stock housing. i am not sure if anyone has gotten a 280zx tach to work with an rb. so to answer your question, yes you can use stock guage with rb swap, ihave all my guage working except tach, and that shoudl be working shortly as well. again this all pertains to a s30 chassis im not sure if a 280zx is the same or not. and a question for you, why swap in the rb20? you may as well find a l28et, much simpler and torquier motor. if youre going to swap an rb into that car iwould go for rb25 minimum.

yeah i still get an idle drop when i let off the gas. then after a few seconds the idle jumps back to where it shoudl be. Im just going to live with it until I ditch the MAFS. Mafs are not the way to go! They may work good but its damn near impossible to set them up properely and elegantly in a s30 chassis.

Yeah Im not really interested in producing them. To make it worthwhile I'd have to get the flanges cut and would have to get several of them to make it worthwhile. Really the hardest part is the flange. That's the purpose of this writeup to give people an idea on hot to make a one off. Bending up the pan sheetmetal and cutting them is very easy and does not take long. Fwiw, a pan like this took about300 bucks in materials and welding supplies.

Nice!!

yeah makes the commute to work so much more fun. I always take the "long" way home now. Im alsways looking for excuses to drive the car. I love it - minus the exhaust fumes. Im going to try a longer tip first. I just finsihed installing a deck this weekend with full ipod control. Much nicer to drive.

rci fuel cell sparco seats bolt in rollbar some 14" wheels Im still hunting my driveline vibes. Narrowed it down to the diff and rear halfshafts. Oh well, need to upgrade to LSD. This is my Daily now so try to work on it as much as I can.

oh yah...? whos intersted?

resistor packs from any v6 Honda work. I know it's been posted accord packs work. But pop the hood from any 6 cylinder Honda or acura and if it has a resistor pack, grab em. I used a set from a vigor or legend can't rmeber which. Also, if you're swap is missing the relay twins, dot make the mistake of buying them from a skyline shop. Any nissan relays work, I yanked some from a old nissan pickup. I'm sure most of you know this though. I didn't, coming from a Honda crowd.

another tip: bolting the pan to ur motor and ensuring a seal. Start by cleaning both surfaces, the block and the pans flange. Make sure you test fit everything and are satisfied with your work. To ensure a seal, apply sealent to the pan. I used a generous amount, but don't overdo it. Now bolt the pan to ur motor usig all bolts. Unbolt it and take note where the sealent hasn't contacted the block. Apply generous amouts of sealent in those areas and bolt her back up again. Allow the sealent to cure before really torquing the bolts down. Recheck tightness after a few heat cycles. I can almost guarentee you will have a leak free engine using this method. There will always be some warpage when welding it up, I found up to 1/8 accepable since that's what I had, and I have zero leaks. Anymore warpage and you may want to consider buying an extra tube of sealent or having a machine shop remove the highspots from your oilpan. I'm pretty sure bolting the pan to a table using all bolt holes would yield no warpage.

dont mind the blue coupler and unfinished crankcase ventialation lines.

The purpose of this writeup is to help out fellow hybridz members with the RB oilpan dilemna. As you may already know, most rb series engines came with a front sump pan, or in the case of the gtr motor, a front sump pan with a diffrential built into it. I was able to fabricate an oilpan, from scratch, using basic tools, with the exception of a milling machine and a tig. Now a milling machine is probably not necessary, and I will explain why later. You can always get a machine shop to do some milling for you. Took me 1/2 hour, so shoudlnt cost much. Materials needed: 3/8X1" aluminum flatbar 1/8" aluminum sheetmetal Stock GTR pan Tools needed: Aluminum cutoff wheel and grinder Two sizes of drill bits (cannot remeber exact size at the moment) Vise Emery cloth/sanding blocks Angle grinder/sanding disc/etc.. Bandsaw 1. Start with the 3/8 by 1" flatbar. This will be your flange. Now you are probably thinking "wait a sec... how will this be my flange?". Easy. Using your cut off disc, cut reliefs into the flatbar to produce bends. Try to follow the original flange as well as possible. You will have to do several relief cuts for tight radius bends. When youre done it shoudl look somethign like this. 2. Grind bevels into the relief cuts so the weld penetrates. Weld it up, but make sure its clamped to a table to prevent excessive warpage. 3. Next I milled off the welds so it blends with the existing surface. Now, im not 100% sure, but you could get away with some sanding discs on an air tool, and then a finnaly block sanding by hand. It woudl take a while, but I did the block sanding anyways after milling to blend the surfaces. A good machine shop shoudl be able to mill it all in one pass (my milling machine was small). You may also wish to use 1/2" by 1" flatbar to allow more material for milling, although more difficult to weld. 4. I then had the other side welded. Its important to flatten out the 1st side so the flange can be clamped to the table flat while the other side is being welded. After its welded do the same milling/grinding/sanding to this side. When its done, you shoudl have less then 1/8" warpage on the flange. Although clamping the flange to a table and welding the pan structure to it flatten it out, so dont be too concerned. 4. Using C clamps, clamp the flange to your stock pan, mark your holes (anyones that you can), drill them out on a drill press. I used a slightly larger drill for greater room of error. Any holes you cant mark you will have to measure using calipers etc. and hope for the best. Mine turned out well and I was able to bolt the flnage to the pan. Starting to look like a flange! 5. Get your aluminum sheared out. For the front I used 2" wide strip, while for the rear I used a 5" wide strip. bend up all your pieces. I simply used a vice. For the 5" piece you will need to make a fixture. Patience is key here. 6. Make the bottom pieces. Get your pieces sheared if possible. Otherwise use bandsaw for any contours/etc. 7. Weld it all up. A friend did all the welding for me and did a tremendous job. 8. My baffling. (trap doors) I later added flatbar to the top to prevent the oil from "hopping" over. Add any provisions for guages and an oil drain. Not the most complete writeup, but itll just give you an idea. Im assuming that you have above average fabrication skills. It really isnt as hard as you think. One more thing to note, make sure you test fit the flange on the block prior to making the pan, as it will require grinding in some areas to clear the girdle and oil pump bolt. For my trapdoors, I used regular steel door hinges. Make sure yo uuse lockwashers and loctite red when fastening steel to aluminum! I have had great oil pressure so far with this baffling! I am using the stock windage trays that are bolted to the block.. No windage tray has been built into the pan as I didnt think it was necesary. If you think it is, thats great, build one for your motor, Its somewhat late and I just threw this together, but any specific questions, just ask. Good luck!

i can take some if needed, tomorow

i managed to place the front turbo maf about 8" away from the turbo, with a filter on the end. its a tight squeeze, but worked out ok. it definetley made a difference in how the engine behaves.