79er

On my MS3 box I am running the Sensor Wires TPS, CLT, IAT, ETC to the Sensor Ground Wire coming from the MS3. The only Sensor Ground Wire that is not running to the MS3 Sensor Ground Wire is the Innovate Wideband Gage Ground Wire. This Ground Wire is running to the side of the block. Sharing the same Ground location as all the other Ground Wires for the MegaSquirt ECU. With this setup I get little to no noise introduced into the TPS sensor wire. When the setup has the Wide Band Ground going to the MS3 Sensor Ground Wire, I get movement on my TPS Gauge, tripping EA, Cruize, ETC. The TPS will blip to 1.5 to 0 in a constant manner. How can this much noise be introduced into the TPS Sensor Wire when it is attached to the MS3's Sensor Ground Wire? This is the recommend setup described on MSExtra for wiring in all Sensor Ground Wires to this Ground Wire.

Thank you for clarifying that up. This is my current tune with a bit of testing involved. At these settings my VE table at Idle is able to achieve in the range of 20 - 30 Fuel load. Is this table a bit more suitable, more practical? Current Values

I have recorded my voltage levels with the car at idle at (800 - 900) RPM with the electronic fans on. And the electric fans off. Here are my results. Fans not running At about 900 RPM (14.10 - 14.20) Volts. Fans running At about 850 - 900 RPM (13.90 - 14.00) Volts. My injector dead time is currently set to 1.500 (Ms). Here is a picture of the stock curve values set by tunerstudio. Stock Curve Would it not make sense to have the injector Dead Time running at 100% during this voltage swing? Here is a picture of the new voltage curve, which is more or less a flat line between these two voltages. Modified

Sounds like an awesome project. If I were building a high horsepower 280zx I would get the following. 1. CP Pistons, Carrilo Rods 2. High strength forged Valves, Valve Springs 3. Custom Intake manifold This one is just 😲! https://protunerz.com/collections/intake-manifolds/products/l-series-datsun-nissan-intake-manifold-fuel-rail-throttle-body 4. Custom exhaust headers 5.Injector dynamic injectors 6. Delete distributor, install crank angle sensor https://protunerz.com/collections/plug-and-play-harness/products/datsun-l-series-crank-pulley-with-trigger-wheel-mount-and-cas-sensor 7. Install coil on plugs with igniters https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ign-1a-race-coil/ 8. Buy a MS3Pro Ultimate ( If you've never used a tuner program, Tuner Studio is a great program to learn on) 9. Run custom AR lines, a nice FPR, High flow Fuel Pump, Custom Fuel Rail. 10. Tremec TKO 600 (Modified Bell Housing, Custom Made Throw Out Bearing, 1987 300zx rear differential R200 11. Garret t3/t4 or a t/4 t/4 (more info on this can be found at this amazing 280zx high horsepower build. Go and check this guys page out http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/, he has done incredible modifications 12. 3" Piping all the way back With your bored out engine this would get you nice high horsepower build

Let me get some info on your setup right quick: 1. What are the offsets of the wheels 2. How big are the spacers 3. Are you for certain that you put the same size spacers on both sides 4. Has the car ever been in a collision on the passenger side fender well or drivers side wheel hub If all that checks out. I cant see that the actual trailing arm that's connected to the wheel hub could ever actually get push in or out with that big of a gap under the vendor wells. That would mean your CV axles (which are perfectly lengthened to fit between the differential and the wheel hub) would be coming loose or almost falling off. Do you kinda get my drift here: Every component that's connected to the wheel hub would have to have all shifted perfectly together to keep the CV axles from not disconnecting. If you car got smashed on the drivers side to where all those components shifted that far, that would be a catastrophic damage to your rear end.

Hi Supernova, thought I would give you a little more info on this topic. I am running KYB's non adjustable in the rear. And Koni yellows fully adjustable in the front. Both front and back have the 1" drop Eibach pro kit springs. The product page for the springs says that you should see a 1" drop on (most applications). This tells me that some cars might see no where near that or my not lower the car at all. This is the case for my current setup. The springs actually seemed to raise the car up a bit. Here's the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YKj99GrCjw to the video I made show casing this, and asking anyone who has these springs if they are seeing the same thing. Hope this helps you out.