suparman

It was running really really rough to the point it would only stay alive with the throttle all the way down shook the car like it was trying to take off. I placed the secondary pickup in the location of the first. I did run a grounding strap from the module to the block to insure good ground. The tach was reading 1k rpm not sure how accurate it is right now though. Coil and module are defiantly good as verified by swapping the secondary pick up in.I just have to fine tune the timing again. Not sure what the deal is, I have removed the distributor and tried timing at 10 before zero on the pulley marks and about ten after as well as zero. I am beginning to wonder how screwed the carbs are it always ran rich smoked allot never could reduce that so I think I have several issues feeding off of each other. The first coil was obscenely hot after leaving the key on to test everything burned me several time because I never seem to learn the first few times, lol.

So I swapped in the secondary pickup and it runs just not very well I am wondering if they are not universal because the secondary pickup is suppose to run seven degrees advanced

I had the module tested it is good that just leaves the pickup as the culprit. And at the local Napa it is cheaper to buy a new distributor for 130 dollars than a new pickup for 180.

Tried multiple coils I know are good no spark from any?

I ahve readings of 12.2 every where except W & G they are reading 1.00.. No spark from coil.

nodule was bad so I got a new one as well as a new coil, Should the coil get power when the ignition is off?

New issue's...12.4 at battery, 12.2 at coil pos, 12.2 coil neg, 0 on b,g,w and c has 12.2 if I reverse long black and white with short black and white I get 8.4 coil pos, 1.9 coil neg, 10.3 on w and g,10.8 on b, and 1.8 on c.... the coil has become hot enough to burn me while running these test's. No spark at all from the coil wire no matter what I do.

Will do thanks so much

So after setting the gap for the reluctor wheel to .2 it runs.... Thank you every one for your help.

Yes the cap and rotor are for a 75. What is the likely hood that the reluctor wheel is bad? or the pickup is not reading right. That seems like the next likely scenario. I believe the original issue was the rotor was from auto zone and the cap from Napa there were distinct visual differences between the two caps. Maybe different manufacture standards between Napa parts and the duralast parts.

cylinders 1 and 5 and 4 are not getting spark 2,3, and 6 are getting good strong spark. I purchased new cap rotor and plug wires and now half of my cylinders are getting good strong spark the other half still are not sparking.... cant figure it out.

Cylinders 2 and 4 show contact on the cap but the others don't look like anything other then brand new.

Testing the wires as the motor cranks over. So my logic would say that as the rotor hits the terminal on the cap for each cylinder. Is there a way I am not aware of? I have never had so many issues on anything.

Oh The coil out put is strong at the coil and the distributor side of the wire. It was just almost non existent spark at the plug side of the wiresand nonexistent to the point of when the spark plugs are connected there is no spark.

Sorry, second wire is disconnected. I put an alligator clip wire on the negative terminal it would spark but not a strong spark, and only if rubbed against a ground it would not leap like the coil plug did. The lead from the neg. terminal was more of a sizzle than anything

I have spark on coil wire.... I took the wires and tested them separate from the plugs and I have super weak spark. So I guess the timing is off?

Should I put the second pickup back in the distributor and wire the pickups inline?

Coil neg to C terminal, green w/white and black w/white to B terminal, black w/white and suppressor to coil pos. Ground wire added to module. When I use the jumper wire I get spark from coil neg with key on and terminal C terminal and during cranking same result. I connected the jumper to W terminal and G terminal but no spark with key on or during cranking shouldn't W or G spark when cranking?

Resistance is reading 717 ohms. I did not change anything except take out the second pickup on the distributor. I hooked up the old analog meter to the wires ground lead was grounded to the engine the white wire now hooked up to g terminal showed the slightest bump when distributor was turned counter clock wise. the green wire connected to w terminal showed zero response.

More pics

If you look at the module the screws through it are grounded and in contact with the metal inserts of the module. Is there another way I should have done this?

I have a 12.6 volt reading at battery, 12.2 at coil pos. key on, 12.2 coil neg key on, 12.2 on b terminal key on, same for c terminal, g terminal reads 1.32 key on, w reads 1.32 key on.Hope this helps. Yes the the coil when jumped to a ground is providing spark, yes the Hei unit is on a aluminum plate but the mounting screws are embedded in the fender well volt meter has confirmed they are grounded here is a pic of my setup.

I did use the battery negative as ground for all of the tests

I have a 12.6 volt reading at battery, 12.2 at coil pos. ignition on, 9.9 ish during cranking, 12.2 coil neg ignition on, 10.3 ish cranking, 12.2 on b terminal ignition on 10.3 cranking, same for c terminal, g terminal reads 1.32 ignition on 1.62 cranking, w reads 1.32 ignition on and 1.62 cranking. hope this helps... Because I am flustered

I put the module on a piece of aluminum from a license plate with the goo under it and used sheet metal screws to bolt it to the body for the ground.