suparman

Thank you for the smaller pictures. My guess would be balancing as well. definitely not broke or chipped.

Yes there is an interesting attitude toward Yankees I was stationed at FT Benning and traveled the smaller parts of the south. I am choosing to return to school there because I like the attitude It is a straight forwardness that many are not use to I grew up in Montana and until recently it was much the same way. Yes do as the Romans do, that is my biggest issue with where I grew up now. There have been to many people moving in and changing the way things are and having a total lack of respect for local customs traditions and attitudes.

You have really got to shrink those pictures so we can see.

Is there any one on here who already lives in the area? I have been cruising through craigslist trying to find z's and such and cant really find any. It is not really worth 800 dollars to me to ship my car down there but if there are not any then? also I would love info on the local dirt tracks.

My block is 2 inches wide and 14 inches long. I used more of a forty five degree angle sweep at a forty five with the block down on the body line. Kinda like this if the bottom line is the body line and the slash is my block / ___. I really appreciate all of the advice and criticism that is being provided so thank you all .

I am replacing all glass it is pretty dinged and pitted and the trim is going to get powder coated black. The primer is just some spray 2k high build. I saw the body line issue definitely going to rework that area. I am not sure how I lost it I kept the block flat to avoid that so maybe I did not build that area high enough.

And how it looks in primer.

So I ended up using the ever-coat z grip filler that is what the supply shop recommended and here is what it looked like after 4 hours with a Dura-block and 80 grit paper.

A funny link for this conversation.http://www.autofieldguide.com/blog/post/daytona-500-bondo-to-the-rescue

I will get some rage gold and board sand then thank you. should I remove what is there or just wipe over it?

Here are some pics

I have no rust left I used a spot blaster and acid wash from the parts store I also have a line sander I used to make sure there were no waves. I have heard bondo is cheap and no good but do not understand why. My logic follows this way most fillers are polyester so base ingredients and materials are the same. The difference being people who use them, professional's go to the auto body supplies house and get their stuff. Professionals are trained and know how to use it. Random Joe goes to auto parts store and buys what is available I:e bondo and does not know proper usage so he usually so screws up and gives the product a bad name because he slathered the quarter panel with to much or let the mud get wet or any number of other things. So to my mind the only difference is education and ability of applicators.Please correct me if I am wrong but this is how i am thinking of this issue.

So I shaved my marker lights and fuel filler door. No major deformation, but I still needed a skim coat of something so I went to the parts store and almost bought bondo but then I remembered that on another section of the car there was rust under the bondo. And concluded with no real evidence that the bondo was at fault. So I bought bondo glass because it is stronger and water proof and skim coated that with ever-coat. The question after this rambling is, is this a good foundation or did I waste time and money I would hate to have done that.

I did the same for ups once

Defiantly not Car-tech I have one of those and it does not have the drop down like that one. Maybe home made with the welds I am seeing. my Car-tech manifold is cast.

http://www.datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm

So I used prescribed methods to confirm TDC status and I think I am there. I find it troubling that the balancer is so far off and the rotor seems to be just a touch off as is my pickup on the disk. the disk is the easiest to adjust just a screw and I will have it on the leading edge again. I have adjusted the wheel several times its almost like it migrates on its own just the tiniest bit.

I purchased the crane xr 3000 system for my '73 240. I got it installed I think the phasing is correct. red led light flashes with spark but I get huge back fires. I took the dist. out and reversed it I was thinking I was I was 180 out but I still get huge flaming carb backfires. New wires cap and rotor good ground. I am thinking that when I bought the car the P.O. told me they had the head rebuilt and timing was not set correctly on the re install when I have it at what I believe is T.D.C. the timing mark on crank is 1.5-2 inches past zero time. Is that a possibility ? IDK...very frustrated.

That is most definitely Batman's z car. Not a big fan but unique and interesting.

Bad links

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/87980-spal-power-window-kit-install/page__pid__957145__st__20?do=findComment&comment=957145 Not a Ford but...

Search? That's an easy one. Spal.........

Umm? cool thanks

So I was offered a Cadillac 427 and th400 for $300 and am wondering the merits of putting it in to a 240z. I love the torque the motor puts out, I am slightly concerned about fuel mileage but at 350- 400 for the torque rating the mileage is a minor concern. the engine is a '77 , and it seems it would be unique in a z but I don't know enough. All the threads I read here say why not just go with a ls motor that seems to be the only argument I can find so... any advice or insight?

Paint is faded and interior is good for the year the car is owned by some guy near aspen Colorado I think. Just has to many cars and this is the least favorite. It is here in Grand Junction at a consignment shop. I am going to pass because once again life happened.