suparman

Alright, so I started a thread a long time ago on a 260 I was turning in to a stock car the problem is/was my wife at the time now ex decided it would make me mad to get rid of it so she sent it to the scrap yard, so now I don't have it.I did however pickup a '73 240 automatic recently and am going to build it. The plan so far is no bumpers, a gm metallic green paint with a 20 percent gloss carbon fiber hood, cowl, hatch, zg flair's, 4 wheel disk brakes, 350 z seats, fiberglass fenders,carbon rear taillight panel, and a new interior. The interior was tan that some one painted black so I will replace it all with real black panels. The car also has a set of weber 32 36 carb's which I hate I just cant seem to find any cheap I:E under five hundred dollar options to replace them I wish I could find someone to trade me something, but we will see.Maybe come August/September a new motor not going to be real picky on that one hopefully some one on the here will have a build or something they no longer need. Definitely going to stay L series and maybe a conversion to a five speed tranny. Suspension I will probably follow the stage three'ish suspension outline in the sticky. I think this should all provide for a nice fun street-able car that can do the strip every couple weekends. Oh and maybe 16 inch or 17 inch wheels I have some more searching on the forum to see which works best. Some times the search button doesn't work for me real well LOL. I will have pics soon, and any criticism from all you guys here or advice is always welcome.

The way our track works is if people think you are to fast they have to pay 500 for a tear down and pay for the rebuild if found to be legal. If you are illegal you are banned till back in compliance. Rules say bottom end has to be stock but you can have a full built head. But they also say after market pistons and rods are allowed so I think creative interpretation is going to be put in to place there. Hopefully I can find a bottom end that is fresh with forged pistons and light weight rods. I am not a very good mechanic and Denver is 3 hours away so Ill have to order in most parts. Although I think a well put together and balanced bottom end may be more important. John C. from Betamotorsports had said to find a good 100k engine and run with it but the only ones I have seen are clapped out.

In 2 weeks I hope to have the body stich welded and a cage in. Then I will need to figure out spring and struts wheel offsets and the rear end and gearing. Do we know what a 260 weighs gutted my roll cage will weigh about 250 lbs seat 20ish 8 gallon fuel cell 10ish empty 50 or so misc. I am going to put in sub frame connectors and a x brace. I was also going to plate mount the engine to help tie everything together.

edit for double post

Alot less restrictive than the street stock class I race the nova in.

Here are the rules. Body: Must have factory constructed for make model and year removal of front inner fenders is allowed front hoop allowed all suspension components must remain in factory location no welded reinforcements caster and camber may be changed by normal methods cannot exceed manufactures limitations coil over shocks and McPherson struts allowed all cars must have a minimum of four inches of ground clearance Transmission and rear end: transmission upgrade allowed must stay in same family stock clutches only rear end gears maybe welded or locked no after market rear ends allowed no ram coupler Engine: no set back or offset max displacement of 2950cc heads may be factory for make of engine used or after market replacements deck head may be shaved porting allowed block must be factory for family of car used stock fly wheel only crank must be factory for family of car after market rods and cranks allowed camshaft may be after market engine balancing allowed Ignition Ignition system must be factory for make of car electrical upgrade allowed to oem only

Rule book says no more than 8 tire contact patch. I am trying to find some 2 " spacers for the right side and 1 inch for the left might have to have the local machine shop make some. When I remember I will upload the ruels.

So Speedway is my bible, They have a Willwood tri reverse mount pedal kit with a 6:2-1 ratio and I like the idea of keeping the resivoures in the car and cleanish. I have read alot about the tilton setups and big brake kits but no info for otherwise stock brake system. I have started my project and am putting in a rollcage next weekend 1 1/2 .120 wall dom tubing would have went .095 but rules say I need to have 1 pound weight per cc of power.

So that would not cause issues great I was going to buy a motor from Datsun parts llc so what is the dual su cfm?

So I have ran in to a hiccup the rules say single carb two barrel 500 cfm max. Can a slightly built straight six run on that worth a hoot. I can buy the four barrel manifold for the Datsun and use the two barrel adapter from the Nova but will the notor like the carb?

I dont drink I just like to go fast and turn left. Our track is 1/8th on the inside 1/4 on top.

I would love to do midget but the cars are expensive and they only come to our track twice a year, and I am not driving 300 miles round trip every weekend to race.

stock type suspension and where we are it is redneck racing. you'll see more diesel f350s and cowboy hats than anything the population of my county is 10 k. What gear ratio can I put in a short nose r200 and what is that out of?

So in my continued searching I found a list of body stabilization posted by John C> For a street driven S30, here's about as much as you can do to stiffen the chassis: 1. Seam Weld (every sheet metal seam overlap.) 2. Bad Dog Subframe Connectors 3. Weld-In Roll Bar. 4. Welded In Rear STB. 5. Triangulated Front STB. 6. Radiator Core Support Reinforcement. 7. Transverse Link Bracing Reinforcement. 8. RT Diff Mount. 9. Tubular Seat Mounts. 10. Box Upper Frame Horns to Firewall/Cowl. 11. Reinforce Pedal Box/Brake MC Mount. 12. Reinforce Front ARB Mount. 13. Reinforce Front Strut Tower to Frame Rail Junction. And while this is for a street car I see a great deal of importance in it. I really hope I got this thread in the right section. I hope to get lots of info compiled problem is I think it will cover several areas. I apologize for any screw ups.

So I have gotten bored with my restore and want to make my 260 in to a dirt car. I have a '77 nova I race already but the six cylinder class will let me do more. My issue is my nova is setup and tuned in it has a ford nine inch with 6.00 gears and a few other things I cant do to the z. I was wondering if anyone out there had any advice or experience they would be willing to share since the cars are way different.

That answers that. I had thought since it was newer it would be better I'll just do the mount thing then.

Not trying to change the body lines. I was thinking I could swap the front ends around get a few advantages and still keep what the car originally looked like. I was thinking msa fenders with a gnose kit. The main reason for the idea was to get a wide wheel track and get a better suspension.

So I have my Datsun and a 88 mustang donor car. I am ready to start building, however I was looking at the front clips and wondering about the advisability of grafting the front of the mustang to the front of the Datsun firewall. Gains would be keeping the k member and gaining width and lots more suspension options. All feedback and opinions welcome.

I have a 87 mustang 5.0 ho with a manual trans will these mount work for this motor? Seems he is using an earlier truck motor.

Awesome thanks

Any luck with a kit yet?

I have spent lot of time looking at motors swaps on here and was under the impression that all motor swaps were significantly more expensive. If I were to pick the perfect swap for me it would be the f20c from the s2000 but I cant find one and imagine it being ultra expensive. I also like the way ITBs sound if that helps any

In 3 weeks I will have 2500 to spend on a motor. I am thinking a L motor would be cheapest to build and put in. fabrication is not an issue for me extra cost for putting other motors in is. the other issue is there are no L series motors in my area I am 300 mile from Denver CO in a small farming town. so I need to find a place to buy a long block motor from or find someone willing to build one for me/ I am not confident enough to correctly assemble one myself. although my race car motor hold together well so I might be able to do it if given a parts list. in the future I would like to do ITBS if that makes a difference. What can I excpect for 2500 if i assemble my self vs someone else doing it for me.If this is in the wrong section sorry. thanks for the help. my perfect motor would be 200 horse with a different sound something other than the lawnmower sound or grumbling v8

I have a spare set do not know what year. Just pay shipping.