suparman
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Everything posted by suparman
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Alright I used the blaster 2 coil wired it as instructed from the link. No spark .....The only thing I can think of is on the pickup in the distributor both wires are blue. I looked at pics of other and the top wire was red so I treated the top blue wire as the positive if this was wrong would this fry the HEI module? Even when I reversed the wires there was no spark... confused. I have double and triple checked the wiring I know it is right. Any suggestions?
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I retract my statement. I repeatedly went to the old site and found nothing then it changed and went to it twice and saw nothing. So I gave up... hmm.. next time I will double check there have been no changes.That way I don't make my self look like an idiot.
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http://www.dapperlighting.com/classic-headlights1.html, I know these are not officially on road use but these are acceptable in Colorado. I feel you on the no suitable options that are street legal. I am buying these thinking that at least I could see and they can not be any worse then some of the production lights out there for brightness and blinding other drivers. I asked the state patrol in Colorado about it and was told as long as they do not point up and blind people they don't care especially with the lackadaisical performance of the stock units. They also have an awesome cut off so you dont blind people. Probably not much help for where you are but it my 2 cents.
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I understand wiring diagrams and pictures. Can I remove the black box's inside the distributor? The other confusing part to me is all three of the wires coming out of the distributor are light blue.. no difference.
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I know this has been asked as I have seen it some where, Just not sure where. So here it is again after a couple hours of mulling it over. What I have is a D6f4-01 5604 distributor I believe came off of a '75 I got it for free and can kind find all sorts of info on putting a zx distributor in but since this is what I have this is what I want to do Any links or info on installing this in the '73. Please help this is my daily driver so the sooner it runs the happier I am. Thank you.
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I want to trade a set of round top S.U.s for a 280zx distributor the carbs need rebuilt .
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Site never showed anything for the z. I think it was another talk and no follow through situation.
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If the coil is bad it will not get spark. By turn over do you mean by hand or by the starter? From the vague description you have given I would offer 650 and take the car before u fix his problem and raises the price or sells it out from under you to someone else.
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I have a 73 shell in Grand Junction CO
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I use royal purple 10w30 And I think it is about three ounces to fill them
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Yea that is the immediate goal. So Pertronix it is.
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I don't suppose any one has an edis system they want to sell or knows the cheapest way to put one together. I just want to replace the points in a 73 240 stock motor.
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I am looking for four screw round top S.U.'s with the drain on the fuel bowl. Message me with offers. Thank you
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The ez wire kit goes in real well and easy. There is a real good chance that if the floorboards are gone there is a lot more metal gone also. the P.O. off my car flattened soda cans and sprayed undercoating over them nice and thick so it looked like it was rust free.
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I swear I saw a carbon fiber air box somewhere for the mikunis just cant remember where though.. that is a awesome setup though.
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Recommendations on an inexpensive welder
suparman replied to Dershum's topic in Fabrication / Welding
http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html..... I love mine it is awesome I have done sheet metal work on the Z and welded 1/4" plate. -
Sports business management, minor in business management. Hope to have a career in scuba Diving,Karts racing or NASCAR racing. Art was just a pre-req I put off because I have no interest in it. B.S. non the less
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I am 3 semesters in to my college and carry 20 credit hours each. But last semester I had to take an art class and failed. Because A. I did not care that the Minoans made some sort of pottery with an octopus on it and B. We were told to give our opinion on whether or not it was art and apparently I insulted my teacher by saying " No any one can paint red and blue square's on paper." To many B.S. games and politics for me.
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I know it was here somewhere here but there was an s30 that some one took spare quarters and added material to widen I think like 2 inches it was really nice looked real good.
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So all electrical for the charging system has been reworked. I solder and crimped new ends on all the wires and put grounding wires on. So far the block the driver strut tower and the radiator support. I still have to do the passenger strut tower and the fire wall though. I put on a new alternator today again and had the battery checked for load. as of right now though everything looks good no issues. Before the alt's were going bad with in 5 minutes but after driving around town for 2 hrs in stop and go traffic with heater on and stereo and lights and driving with a heavy foot this alt is doing great. I have to wonder if the alternators were bad and I finally got a good one. we will see shortly.
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Did a ohm test and continuity test of the charging system wires with .4 ohm result
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New symptoms today. Battery gave out first the alt was only putting out 12.3 volts. But the parking brake and battery lights did not come on at all. However the ABS light and the air bag lights came on.
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<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">Highly worried brake light and battery light stay on.<br class="Apple-interchange-newline"> Two weeks ago I did the coil swap, I used Accel instead of MSD, with no issues till 3 days ago, I replaced the alternator 2 days ago and had no issues till today and now those two lights are on again. Could I have crossed the two outside wires and be causing this to my self? Or is there another explanation.<br style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; background-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); ">And as always thank you in advance for your help.<br style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; background-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); ">Oh and I dont think it matters but I used a plug from a 05 neon for the splice on the coil. where did you buy the alternator? not all alts are the same. some are junk. <br style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; background-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); ">i doubt it is the coil unless you wired a short , power to ground, into the system.<br style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; background-color: rgb(238, 238, 238); ">have both your alt and your battery tested at a parts store. probably not the store that sold you the alt. Generic alt from checker. Couldn't have wired in a short unless the system shorts from reversing the two out side wires. I cut three wires right against stock plug and and crimped and heat shrunk them together.The local checker is the best parts store available to me. The Napa and Auto zone are beyond horrible. New alternator today from Napa new battery terminals and battery. Same issue low voltage out put original alt from me buying the car was completely dead I replaced it with a checker unit and with in one day it was only putting out 11.7-12.5 volts same issues with alt. from Napa I replaced the battery and alt and terminals at the same time to narrow down potential issues. What now I have no idea what could be wrong Please someone. This is my only car. This is a cut and paste of a issue I posted on a Subaru forum I am still having the issue and know one there is helping/ has an idea. Any one here able to help? Oh and i am sure some one will ask I do have a z it just doesn't count a car right now because it is in a whole bunch of pieces.