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Where did you find that picture? Can we send the owner hate mail? Can we take him out and flog him? And lastly, WHY DOES THAT HONDA HAVE MUSTANG EMBLEMS ON IT? Might as well be a Honda. Ugleeee

As a former 66 Mustang owner, I am insulted by this. Wouldn't it be cheaper to just get yourself a convertable Mustang? DUMB.

Thanks for the ideas. I'll check the hatch gasket tonight, maybe it needs adjusting. I'm also going to plug every hole there is in the car. Unless I can get rid of the fumes, I just plain can't drive the car. I got sick on Wednesday when I drove it to work. WAY too many fumes. Hopefully i can take care of this problem. Takes the fun out of driving the car when you're afraid to drive it because of the fumes! Oh, and I plugged the tank with a few brass fittings, but I left the vent hose that goes to the filler pipe on, because I knew I had to have some sort of vent. I bought a vented cap at Kragen's. Thanks AL

I got rid of all the extra stuff that goes along with the fuel tank, it was all pretty old and VERY expensive to replace. I plugged up the tank well, there's no leaks there. I had one Z that had a leak in a few of the hoses and wasn't going to take ANY chances with that again. Thanks AL

Ok, gettin' tired of this. I have been working on cutting down the fumes in my car. I have replaced: - Tailight gaskets. - Rear Hatch Gaskets. Now I am getting frustrated. But I have some ideas, someone tell me how feasable they are. 1. Whoever had the car before me Did one of those rollbar on the wheelwell jobs, and the holes are still there, right through the vinyl and carpet. Thinking maybe fumes are coming up from there. 2. I put in the rear swaybar from MSA when I first got the car, but I removed it because I didn't like it. The holes are covered by insulation and carpet, but could it still be coming in from there? 3. I have a small hole from a light switch on the rear deck (between the hatch gasket and the ledge abouve the taillights), and I'm going to put in a new switch, right now it's open though. There is insulation on the other side of it, what do you think? 4. Think maybe the marker lights could be contributing? I can make new gaskets for them too. Any ideas would be appreciated...I can't drive the car with the window down. Kills me..... Thanks AL

Thanks about the crossmember, that's the 10th design I had, and the one I think works the best. It's easy enough to duplicate it, the dims are the same as the old 2 piece ones, except that there is a brace between them. Mine is perfectly centered, but you could offset it like the JTR setup, but I think that the passenger side header will not fit. It's already really close to the frame rail. I'll do a measurement if you want and it may work. If it does I might rethink mine, although it would require some other mods to make it happen. I don't like how tight stuff is on the driver's side. I don't know exactly which headers mike is using, you could email him and ask....he's always very helpful. Thanks Al

That's my old mount, and yea, it twisted a little. I replaced that about 6 months ago with this mount: http://zcar.netdojo.com/newpics.htm This takes care of all the twisting problem (the only stress is against the top of the frame rail) and so far I have had NO problems with this. The only issue with the power steering swap AND the 5.0 swap is that block huggers won't work. The one on the passenger side will work, but the driver's side doesn't clear. I had to use the stock header on the driver's side and have a 2.5" inch collector added to it, so it wouldn't be a bitch to dissasemble. Check this info out and see what you think. Yours will work too, but I don't know about having 2 seperate mounts, it might still be a problem. Also, SCCA Mike has some mounts too, I don't think he's had a problem with his. Thanks Al

Check out my site, http://zcar.netdojo.com, I have a swap page....updating it now, it's pretty much a supplement to the JTR book. Whatever swap you are doing, the JTR book has a lot of important info. Go to the "Ford 302 Swap" link. Thanks Al

Easy solution:Nailgun under the fender. Pull up next to them and give 'em a flat. Although that is a bit extreme, but damn it would feel good!!! SF Bay Area is full of 'em too.... Oh well.... used to be fun to drive!

400 Small Block bored .060 over..... but sometimes it's a stroker crank....depends on who built it. But a .060" over 400 is pretty hairy....Those are already 4.125", which is pushing the block.... if it's not a stroker have it COMPLETELY checked out... JMO AL

Only in the Bay Area would you see that kind of ridiculous junk.....where is that? Looks familiar.

Actually with a good intake (like a Performer RPM) and a 600cfm it would be much more torquey. The stock motor barely pulls 500CFM, so 750 is overkill for a small block. It actually winds up having LESS ower because it doesn't have the response a smaller carb would have. Stick to an Edelbrock 1405-1406 or a Holley 1860, something with 600cfm, otherwise you'll have drivability problems, bogging, and lower fuel mileage. It will still run good, just not AS good as it would with a 600. Al

I have most of the info to do the swap on my site, also see the motor mount thread in this section for more info....email me at fallen100@yahoo.com if you have any questions...I have a very similar swap to what you're talking about. My Website Thanks! AL

Hey guys - can someone check this for me? I'd like to get a 1990 300zx wheel on my car ('71) and I know that the 280zx has the same spline as the early Z, but I don't know about the 1990. I have tried looking at the steering wheel adapters (thinking that might tell me whether it uses the same adapter for both cars) but have had no luck. Does anyone know or can check? Like to know because if it does fit, I will buy one I found in good condition. All you'd need to do is pull it off the 300zx and try and slide it onto any 70-83 Z. Thanks! AL

Yea, Mike welded it up for me. Did a great job too. Didn't get a good look at it at MSA, tough to see it under the car, huh? So when's the next meet? AL

Mostly I used the other header because of the steering shaft...the stock steering shaft would be lower and wouldn't cause the same problem. the stock shaft is like 3/8" thick (about) and mine's around 1" (sliding sleeve)....plus the rack end is longer so it's like 2" higher... I would guess that the block huggers would work....especially if you offset the engine 3/4" like in JTR. Mine's dead center. Plus there is a bit of room to lower it (maybe 1/4"). The reason I like this design is all the weight is on the top of the rail pushing down, and a 4"x2" surface is going to hold a lot better than 2 bolts taking all the stress. This literally is drop in, drill 4 holes, bolt in. I'll have more pics soon, looking for the other roll I forgot to bring to have processed. Man, I gotta get a digital! AL

Hey guys, I have finally got the pictures developed of the new crossmember, check them out! New Pics So far this has been perfect, it would take a truck to run over this to damage it. Al

Trying to find some info about a W-24 motor Duesenburg made in the late 20's/early 30's for a boat racer for a friend of mine who is curious. I know it's in Road and Track issue back int he mid 90's, but wondering if there is any info online. Anyone have any idea? Thanks AL

I'm thinking Honda Accord mirrors. They happen to have the same rake and tumblehome as the Z (within a degree), so all I have to figure out is how to mount them, which shouldn't been too tough. Maybe ever be able to us the power mirrors??!?! Pete - love to see your setup. AL

yep rotors slightly warped. Thanks for the input guys, I think my power booster was over boosted and really clamping down on my rotors. I have disconnected it, and the brakes feel much better now. I don't mind it being a bit heavier, in fact, it's not much heavier than my wife's car and she's got power. Thanks! Al

Well then I guess I'm taking a trip down to the machine shop this weekend...... The caliper is centered correctly, I checkd that last night. New rotors are $74 a piece....hope these aren't too bad. Wish I didn't have to drive the Z until then....might be maing it worse. At least the bearing is OK. Thanks Guys! AL

My brakes are pretty new (3000 miles on brand new rotors)....I'll check though.....thanks... AL

No, at low speed it's smooth. Absolutely no vibrtations at low speed. Just above 40. Checked the rotors/calipers/tension rods/control arms/strut/etc.....nothing's loose..... any alignment guys out there?

My Z has started shaking when I hit the brakes over 40mph. I thought maybe something was loose, but I checked all the bolts and they are OK. I am wondering what could be causing this. It all of the sudden started happening, so it's got me worried. It kind of looks like the front end it toed out a bit, but not sure if that's the cause. Anyone have any ideas? It doesn't shake at all unless I am hitting the brakes. Also, the harder I hit the brakes the more it shakes. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. thanks! Al

The verdict: Ball Joints: both good Wheel bearings: Driver's side was loose. pulled the rotor and hub, repacked, checked the bearing, repacked, bolted back on. Made sure it was not loose.....but not too tight..... Drove out on the freeway....hit the brakes...no change. why do I always get the weird stuff?? Something I noticed: I have Mike's 300zx rotor/4Runner caliper setup with the 300zx hub. I noticed that the spacer between the rotor and the hub was not perfectly centered. Now I have no idea why it wouldn't be, but I don't know if that would cause this issue. Shouldn't it vibrate the front end ALL the time...? I dunno but I think I'm gonna pull it off when I replace the bearings (better safe than sorry) and see what's up..didn't have time tonight, also have to drive it tomorrow.... Thanks guys! AL