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Thanks! That's what I thought. So does anyone know if they have the same splines as the early Z column? I just found out that my chevy truck and my Z have the same spline on the column....why would Nissan change that? I would like to have an early Z32 steering wheel on my car..... Anyone have one or know someone who is selling one? Al

Do all years of Z32's have air bags? I thought I had seen a Z32 steering wheel (probably '90) that didn't have it. I might be wrong. Kinda curious about it because I need a steerin wheel for my Z, and I know the 280zx wheel fits early Z's. Thanks! AL

Thanks, I'll check that. Sounds like it could be either to me. I think the wheel bearing is more likely, but we'll see. Thanks AL

Also there is a balance difference betwen the flywheels too. The later flywheel (157 tooth) is 50oz counterbalance while the earlier one (164 tooth) is 28oz (might have those mixed up, not sure).....There is a flywheel you can buy that is 28oz AND 157 tooth, Ford Motorsport has it or Summit racing. Not cheap, but it will be the correct flywheel. AL

I was there at 8am for the line up (which was a LONG line) and stuck around until almost 2pm....was great to finally meet the guys and see a few of them again (Pete, John, Tim, Yuichi, Ron, Owen, Dave, Mike Dennis, Mike Kelley, and a whole bunch of others....sorry I suck at names ). It was a great show and I look forward to the next meet, hopefully I will be able to clean up my car a bit more for the next one, but I made it home with no problems at all and got 23mpg! And thanks to Pete my electrical system problems were solved and my gauges all worked correctly all the way home. Until next time..... AL

Well, my volt gauge works a little better..... I got it all hooked up and took it for a test drive....first time I hit the brakes.....the stereo turns off..

Ok, I'll try that. I checked the wires on the voltmeter, and they are both 12v. Wasn't that just to measure amps going back and forth? Anyway, I'll try that out and let you guys know. Thanks! Al

yea, i tried that, replaced the wire that goes from the brake light switch to the lights - same thing. Maybe one of those light sockets is corroded....I'll check that, but I doubt it would cause this problem, but YOU NEVER KNOW with this car! Thanks AL

Already did that twice. This even dims the headlights when I hit the brakes. The gauges bounce. I am thinking about replacing both my main feeds in the car. There must be a short or something somewhere. The circuit that gets turned off is the switch voltage. The same one the wipers and fan run on, which is why it turns off when I have those on too. Seems like the flow of electrons is getting disturbed by the brake switch (which is why I tried there first), lihe it draws all the flow away from everything else, like a short. I think I may just deal with it until after MSA and just put in the Painless Harness next week or so. Thanks AL Actually, maybe I'll swap the voltage through to the AIR CON fuse and see what happens. I don't have air con, so it might work. Does the fan work off that though......... Guess I'll find out...... Thanks for all the suggestions.....

BUMP!

I am TOTALLY confused on how the early 240's are wired. Here's my situation: Most of the time I hit the brakes, the stereo would turn off. So I checked the fuse box, and the brake lights were pulling volts from the COMMON fuse , so I fixed it and put it through the STOP fuse. Did the same thing. so I thought there might be a short in the line to the lights, so I replaced the wire. Nope. so I bypassed the fuse box and hooked up the other side of the brake switch to the battery - same thing. When I turn the lights on, the volts drop a lot. If I turn on the lights when the stereo is on, the stereo goes off for a second. If I turn on the wipers, it goes off. If I turn on the fan, same thing. What do they all have in common? 2 wires, White-Red and White, both from the positive terminal ont he starter solenoid, where the battery cable attaches. So I thought yesterday, maybe it's the lead wires, and there's a burnt section. so I tested to with another wire. It was a little better, but not much. stereo still turns off. So I was looking in my Haynes manual at the wiring diagram. the white-red and the white connect at the amp gauge. well, I disconnected this because I have a volt gauge now, and just taped off the ends. Do these 2 have to be connected? It was fine until I started getting the other things in (like the wipers, stereo, fan, etc...) now it seems to be a major problem. Does anyone know if they are supposed to stay connected? Please let me know, The car's running great but this has got me scared to drive it to the MSA show. I don't need another problem to stop me going to another show !!!! Thanks Al

When and where? It's ON! See ya there! 3 days and counting to MSA

Me too.....I'm registered and I'm definately there with my car. Just got through doing some cleanup.... Count me in! Thanks AL 4 days and counting to MSA!

I've seen a swap like this before, the mounts are L-shaped, come back towards the rear of the car, then up. There's also the one that uses the stock mounts on the crossmember, with an offset to push it towards the firewall. Don't think you get 6" out of either one, though. Maybe there's another that we haven't seen yet? Al 4 days and counting for MSA!

Mike, You might have not as bad of a time with headers as you think, because the exhaust ports aren't vertical on those motors, they are at 45 deg angle, so it might be easier..... Would be killer, especially for a drag car, set up with 2V heads (ported of course), C-6, big cam, 750carb, whaddya think, 12's? 11's? I think 11's easy with a killer Cam. There goes the R200! BLAM!! Whoops, sorry, daydreaming again!

Hey guys- I'm not using the ones that are floating around anymore - I'm using a crossmember type now. I'm thinking of making them and selling them, as they are pretty much drop-in. What do you guys think? AL

It's almost too stupid to be real.... I can't believe that guy. Hope he moves out soon! Al

Cool, thanks! After going through my fuse box just now I found a few reasons that I'm having problems: This is the Stock fuse box setup... AIR CON---------------LIGHT L WIPER-----------------LIGHT R FLASHER---------------PARK/TAIL HORN------------------DOME STOP------------------COMMON Well, I'm not using the left side of my fuse box AT ALL. In fact, since I rewired the lights, I'm only using the LIGHT R fuse for the headlights. Since I have a relay taking all the real current for the lights, I don't need 2 fuses. The LIGHT L will wind up being High Beams someday. My Brake lights are going through the DOME circuit. And my fuel pump and wiper are not fused. I was kind of shocked about this. This will change immediately. I am going to run the wipers through, well you guessed it, WIPER, and the fuel pump through another, not sure yet, have to find one that is on only in the ON position. I'm probably going for the Painless harness soon, as I am SICK of these wiring issues. I think I should have done that in the first place! Thanks for the help. AL

I looked through my books last night and found an old Haynes manual, and It had a drawing of the fuse box cover. I just needed to know what went to what. Thanks!

Hey anyone have a pic of the fuse box cover for a 71 240z? I think it's the same 70-73, just teh pigtail is a different length. I need to know what is what because I have to redo some wiring in my car before MSA. Any pics that I can read would be helpful. Thanks Al

One thing I have noticed is that mine (I have the 300zx hub/rotor/4runner setup) is really light effort, super sensitive, has a little play, and half way down turns to a rock. if I tap the brakes they lock, if I ease into them, I can get it almost to the part it gets tough without locking them up. 73BOTIZ said he had the smae problem, and he has the same setup. Seems like the booster is overboosting, then it hits bottom and doesn't do any more. Kind of hard to describe. Let's just say I can stop in a HURRY if I need to, and sometimes when I'm not planning on it.

Ok guys, I (as always) have a weird issue. I have fumes in my car. So I tried some of the common solutions to this: - taillight gaskets (new) - hatch gasket (new) - door weatherstripping (new) - PCV valve Still, I have fumes. what is weird, is before I had had them whether the window was down or not. Now I just have them when the window is down. I don't get that. Obviously the fumes are coming in through the window, right? I am kind of wondering where they are originating from....... Any ideas? Thanks Al

Yes, I saw that same thing. I have the shorter arms and it is a bit sensitive. I have gotten used to it, but next time I will put in the longer arms. The one thing that worried me about the steering rack was placing the mounting eyes below the crossmember. my crossmember is so low that I can't slide my floor jack under it unless I pull up on the bumper a bit, and yours are below the crossmember. I put mine even because I worried about clearence issues. Probably not a real problem, but I was concerned about it. It probably would have been easier for me to install the rack if I had done it the way you did it, though. The conversion looks really clean. Very good job. Al

I'll be there, just getting some little stuff done. My car will be much more photogenic by then, I'm finishing up the interior and I'm going to be painting the bumpers and stuff, should look pretty good. It's no beauty queen, but it will be clean. I have pretty much dialed all the quirks out of it (man, has it been an uphill battle), so it the drive up to Rio Vista should be uneventful. See you guys there! Al

Yea I did a stoplight race with a 5.0 a couple of days a go. Let's just say he was suprised ! Oh well, small fish, where are the Vipers and Vettes? But I guess that's what the car's for! AL