alsil

Thanks Sunny, I got it. Makes MUCH moe sense now. And thanks to RXO510 for telling me what the wires all go to. Think I might have had a good motor in the first place, but I'll test them both now and get it going. Thanks for all the help! AL

So what you're saying is that LR is the only hot wire, and the other 4 are grounds? No wonder! OK, I think I know how to test it now, my switch must be bad. I have a lighted toggle switch I can use until I get a new switch. Thanks for the help! Thanks AL

cool! Thanks! Fax it to 408-228-5523! I will get it on Monday. Would have posted earlier but I have been gone for the past week. Thanks! AL

Anybody have any clue how to bench test a wiper motor from a '71? I can't get either of the ones I have to even register a load. There are 5 wires: Black (Ground for switch or motor?) Blue (switch fast speed?) Blue - Red (Constant?) Blue - Yellow (switch normal speed?) Blue - White I need to get my wipers going, I don't have a problem making a harness for it, as long as I can get it working. Thanks Al

Anybody have any clue how to bench test a wiper motor from a '71? I can't get either of the ones I have to even register a load. There are 5 wires: Black (Ground for switch or motor?) Blue (switch fast speed?) Blue - Red (Constant?) Blue - Yellow (switch normal speed?) Blue - White I need to get my wipers going, I don't have a problem making a harness for it, as long as I can get it working. Thanks Al

no problem

Alternator wiring doesn't matter to me, I have the stock 140amp Ford Alternator on mine with it's own harness. And as far as the tach, that's got it's own harness too. I wasn't about to mess with the mess that is my wiring harness to try and make it work. If that's the differences, then I should be OK. Thanks AL

I have a '71, and the wiring harness is a mess. I have a good one from a '73, how compatible is it? I would like to just plug it in, but I am not sure what differences there are. I know they have to be similar. Any body know? Thanks Al

I tried this, along with a bunch of other ideas that I had to use the stock cable. Unfortunately, the actual pedal hangers and assembly flezed and the pedal effort was unacceptable. I tried about 6-7 different otions, and none worked. That's why I went Hydrolic. The problem lies in the fact that you have to have the quadrant ABOVE the center of the arc for it to work correctly, and even pulleys will not work effectively. I tried it, and even with a thick rod for the pulley, it still flexed. I even tried a "pull" setup, and it was ridiculously heavy. I could see the front of the dash flex. Hopefully, you can come up with a good way to solve this, as I gave up and just went hydrolic. Glad I did, though, it works great. Let us know what you come up with, I'd be very interested in how it works out. Al

Another idea- What would happen if my fuel pressure was too high for the carb (it's not supposed to be, but my pump never slows down, it always pumps at the same rate)? should a pump (the one I have is a Carter) with 5-7 PSI be OK for hte Performer carb? I checked my floats, and they are set right, but if the pressure was too high, would it open them up? Could this cause my problem? I am just about to have it towed down to a place where they were going to go through it, but a friend of mine thought of this. What do you think? I have thoguht about getting a regulator, but I don't want to spend any more money. Suppose I'll have to. Thanks AL

Yea, that looks like you, Pete. Hey, I can't talk about my weight, someday I'll actually get back to the gym!!!! If you want to post a pic, just click the "IMAGE" button below when you post and you can put the link to it there. Just go to the picture in another browser, copy the line in the Address Bar, and paste it in the box. Then Hit OK. that's it. Al

Well, if you guys don't know by now, or you can go here: My ECHOES bio or here: My STITCH bio or here: My REFUSE bio or my personal favorite: Anna and I at the Z Meet Sorry, I'm not very good at scary pictures, I should be, though, I'm in a Metal band!!!!! AL

I'm sure that the compression is just ONE of the problems. The fact that it has bad compression tells me that there are more problems related to wear. I will do a leakdown probably thursday, but until then, I'm trying to get the stuff together to see if this 289 will work. Seems like it will. This will teach me to buy and engine from some guy in Texas who obviously had this thing sitting out in the rain in the middle of a field before I bought it. AL

I know, I know, I should have checked this earlier, but I never had the time to go throught the engine as well. I did a compression check now, first since I put the engine back together. this is what I got. 1: 150 2: 140 3: 130 4: 135 5: 130 6: 120 (!!!) 7: 130 8: 140 I was not expecting that. So I guess I got a compression problem, so now I have to do a leakdown test. Hopefully it's the heads. That would be the easier fix. Still not sure I would trust it. But we'll see. Hopefully I'll have some time this week to dive farther into it. I only had an hour today. AL

Well, if I use the stock starter I have that fits the 5.0 motor, I should be OK, right? the flywheel isn't spaced any different from the block on the early motors, are they? Out of curiosity, where do they remove the material from the flywheel to balance it 28oz? Since I have the 157 tooth flywheel arleady, I thought about just rebalancing it, getting an early 4 bolt balancer, and going for it. What do you think? AL

Yea, checked the machine shop that I usually go to, they want $350 to balance just the flywheel!!!!! I think that may be a bit steep. Gonna check around. I see what you're talking about. Looks like quite a bit of material. Thanks AL

Ok - if I get the motor, rebalance the flywheel and balancer - I should be able to bolt up my T-5, use my clutch, and blot everything else back up, right? I know the block/trans mating surfaces are the same for the 2 engines, so I should be able to just bolt up my starter, and all the accessories? Are there any other differences I should know about? I know I have to take the backing plate off my 5.0 and use it on the 289. Am I missing anything? AL

Ok, is there a way to have the flywheel / balancer re-balanced for 28oz? (I know, grasping at straws!!!!)

Crap Crap, I forgot about the tooth difference of the 2 motors! I won't even be able to use my $130 starter. Crap. This is turning into an expensive situation. thanks for the reminder, Terry! Al

Well, it's recently been rebuilt, and has not been run yet. It has some pretty strong stuff in it, and is local. Plus he's not asking a ton for it. But if I have to spend another $500 to make it work, it may not be worth it. Problem with Windsor-Fox is, they don't know anything besides the swap from the late model to early model Mustang. I ran into that problem last time I called them about the wiring harnesses they had. I'll check around. Thanks for the info. AL

Hey guys, I am talking to one of the guys here about a 1965 289 (6-bolt) he has for sale. Looks like a good deal, gonna look at it Saturday. A couple of things I am concerned about: -Crankshaft Dampner. I need to have the 4-bolt dampner on my engine because of the serpentine belt setup I am using. I think I read somewhere the dampner on the later engines uses a different counterbalance than the older ones. Is this true, or can I use the one on my '95 5.0 on it? -Flywheel. Almost the same question, does it use a different counterbalance? -Oil dipstick. I know that they use newer motors in old Mustangs, which requires moving the dipstick to the front cover using the early timing cover, but not the other way around. The '65 289 has no provision for a dipstick on the driver's side, and a front-cover mounted dipstick will do no good with a rear sump oil pan. any ideas? I thought about drilling a hole in the side of the block, but I think that's a bad idea. I am really weighing out the possible extra expenditures of doing this, because I have a brand new clutch (that fits the 5.0 flywheel) and don't want to switch to a v-belt setup, or go without an oil dipstick. what do you guys think? Thanks AL

An easier way is to find a sandblasting place in the area - It cost me $40 I think for all my suspension parts. Took a day. Easier than polluting Dave's house. There's lots of them around. Afterwords, just clean it all down with degreaser (especially inside the rear hub housing, and the spindles) so that there's no sand anywhere. Hand cleaning thses things takes forever. Plus, you can see the original stamps from the factory after it's sandblasted. If you paint the parts semi-gloss black, it looks factory. AL

Early Ford 4-lug pattern: 4 on 4.5" Late Ford 4-lug pattern: 4 on 4.25" All auto 5-lug patterns: 5 on 4.5" All Truck/Van 5-lug Patterns: 5 on 5.5" There are still many 9" rear ends available. Unfortunately, the gears are usually 2.73:1 or 3.0:1 on the Auto models, Don't even bother with a Truck rear end, they had their own special setups. And not many came with them, only the early ones, before the larger 9.75" or the smaller 8" (both w/o drop out center sections). The early 9" was 57" hub to hub, but they slowly widened them to 61" by 1971. There was a great article on 9" Fords in Hot Rod a while back, check that. If you're going 9", you should probably go 5 lug, as no 9" rear ends came with 5-lug from the factory. Not even the Versailles rear ends witht he discs did. All 5-lug. The Mustang 8.8 is plenty strong, and is still used. If you want strength, either is a good choice. You may have to cut all the brackets off the 8.8 to use, the only extra thing you may need to do compared to the 9". MAKE SURE TO GET THE C-CLIP ELIMINATORS, the c-clip is going to be the weak point on those for High HP, which is what I assume you're putting it in for. You could also use an 8" rear end, but not if you're going over 350hp. It can handle a lot, but put too much torque to it and it will snap. But for less that 350/350 it will work fine, and uses the same kind of architecture as the 9', just slightly smaller. They are plentiful, as they were used in Mustangs, Cougars, Mavericks, Granadas, Mercury Monarchs, Falcons, and Mustang II's. Cheap alternative. Al [ October 01, 2001: Message edited by: alsil ]

If any of you guys knows of a used small block Ford that runs good somewhere in the CA area, i need one so I can run my car for a few months. Not going to be able to afford the new motor until next year (maybe not until May) so i need some thing that works in the meantime. Doesn't need to be a hi-po motor (ANY performance level would be fast as hell in the Z, so it doesn't matter), just run good and have good compression. Even a 255 would work, just so that it runs. See, my poor truck has seen 35,000 miles in the past 2 years and needs some well-deserved attention. Unfortunately, it's my daily driver. My budget has dwindled for this car, so I need to do this cheap for now. At least I'll be able to drive the car! Email me at zcar@netdojo.com if you know of one! I really appreciate all the help you guys have given me. Thanks Al

Good idea, but no, the pump is OK, I have good pressure, the bowls are full when it runs like crap. I have ruled out the carb- I jetted it 2 steps rich, 2 steps lean, no difference. I am at a loss. The engine is getting fuel and spark. I am going to thoroughly go through it and see what the hell is up. Pretty much I'm planning on a crate motor. if I can't diagnose it soon, it's gone. I want to drive my Z. Thanks for everyone's help! Al