D9inger

I guess I was spelling it wrong! It's "Veil". https://www.fibreglast.com/product/Carbon_Fiber_Veil_1064/Surfacing_Veils?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuafdBRDmARIsAPpBmVVTMdV86gcDc-CaKbG1OtBp9g_2aWTX7gdkW8n7KTzpRbSkxYca9P4aAqmWEALw_wcB I've had it for a long time, there may be a better product for what we're doing but the company Fibre Glast is a fine company to deal with. I'm not associated with them in any way, I bought that veil 15 years ago for a R/C jet I was trying to build.

I did just the top and across the tops of the gauges. I used 30 minute epoxy thinned slightly with anhydrous alcohol, (99% water free) but it took several weeks working on it on weekends and some weeknights. I'm a big fan of that bed liner. As far as taking it on as a project, when I first started working on it I was asking myself "what have I gotten myself into" but the padded dash filler sands easy, it hardens quick so be ready to use it as soon as it's mixed. The more you mix up the faster it cures it seems. I bought 3 cans from somewhere on the web, it's expensive on Amazon so don't get it there. I figured in the worst case scenario and I goof it all up, I'd just put the dash cap back on it. BUT I do know a guy in CA that is making new dashes now. They're expensive but available.

Thanks, it took a long time. I used Polyvance padded dash filler and Dupli-color Bed Armor from O’Reily’s. I put probably 8 coats on it. I figure if it’ll last on a truck bed in the sun and rain it should last on my dash. 6142A750-804C-4EE8-AF6A-7003D0D199AF.jp2

I used Great Stuff foam insulation to fill the splits. I used R/C model airplane plywood to add stiffeners with epoxy. Covered with Padded Dash Filler Got frustrated with how fragile it was and covered it in carbon fiber vale, also a R/C airplane product. More carbon fiber Padded dash filler over all of it, Ready to bed line. Bed lined. Liquid chrome pen from Hobby Lobby Installed.

So I'm gonna need to repair this.

Wow... Did that get wet or something?

Thank You, I did discover the 1978 FSM schematic was incorrect too. It won't work like they drew it and the wiring in the car confirmed it. The giveaway was the top left pin on the drawing had 2 wires in it and nothing in the bottom left. There was one wire in each on my car. The one on the left is original, the one on the right is corrected. I used standard Bosch relays, I bought a 10 pack off ebay. I had to do the headlight mod earlier and figured I'd need them. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127971-led-headlight-bulbs-anyone-tried-them/?tab=comments#comment-1196144 Dave

turns out it was the relay, unmounted it and with it plugged up still and a ground added to the mount bracket I noticed it was intermittent. So I did a quick search and discovered they are not available anywhere. Figuring I had nothing to loose I straightened the tabs and removed the cover and found the ground strap was broken. I tried adding a ground by drilling a small hole in between the relays and soldering the coil grounds to it but I think I had tired 40 year old relays in addition to the broken ground strap. I got to looking for solutions and found this along with information of people offering relay harness adapters for sale and links to the 6 pin non locking connector. The ready made ones were $75-80 delivered, the 6 pin connector was $3 and another $35 for the crimper I was getting ready to cut the OEM connector off and splice in a set of relays and decided to see if I could get the relay contacts to release from the OEM connector. A dental pick and some patience and I was able to get them to release and they are exactly the same size as the ones in the new relay sockets. So one at a time I removed and reinstalled the OEM wires and connectors into the new relays sockets, checked everything with my meter, added a terminal end to the black grounds and plugged in the relays. Works, not expensive and with the exception of the relay sockets, no new connections to fail. As an added bonus the holes line up with the originals so remounting was a breeze.

I'd still like one too.

Will do and report. Thank You, Warmer weather coming this next week. Dave

yes, was pulling in the driveway and it died, like I turned off the ignition with the key. Now it will crank but no accessory lighting, seat belt warning, or anything that is normally on with the key selected on. Strangely enough if I turn the key to start it will crank but it will not start, BUT if I turn the key slightly back toward off I get the accessory stuff, seat belt warning, etc. I'm thinking its a ignition (key) switch.....? If it'll ever warm up I'll dig in and troubleshoot.

Did you ever figure out what was going on? My 78 did this to me yesterday.

what's on your mind Robb?

I hope this makes since.... The basic of how it works is… Stock wiring 12V from the battery is supplied to the fuse panel from the battery, there it is split left and right through two fuses, one for the left and one for the right. When you turn on the headlights 12V goes directly to the headlights from the headlight switch, it provides power to BOTH high and low beams. The low beam ground is constant, when the headlights are selected on, the low beams will illuminate. The ground side of the high beam circuit is controlled by the high beam/low beam switch to the left of the steering wheel. When high beams are selected a ground is provided to complete the circuit to ADD the high beams. The low beams do not turn off when high beams are selected. Now for my mod What I did was added two relays that removed the full current/amperage through the headlight switch and high beam switch. Now the headlight on/off switch applies 12V to both relays. The first (low beams) has a unswitched ground. When you turn on the headlights, the low beams come on. Left on my drawing. The second relay is controlled by the high beam/low beam switch. When low beam is selected the second relay is not energized and provides a “normally closed” path to power the low beams. When high beams are selected the second relay (the right relay on my drawing) is energized and removes the ground from the low beams circuit and provides a ground for the high beam circuit. The way I accomplished this is by finding the 12V hot (headlight switch on) to the driver’s side. Then I located the constant ground for the low beams and the switched ground for the high beams. The 12V hot from the headlight switch to the driver’s side provides power to both relays. Relay one (on the left side of my drawing) is grounded so it is energized when the headlights are turned on. Relay 2 (right side) is also powered but is missing the ground to complete the circuit and energize it. That ground is provided by the high beam switch. When that ground is provided the relay is energized and power is removed from the low beams and added to the high beams. In the end the headlight switch now controls a relay, the high beam switch controls the other one, one relay provide power to the headlights, the other controls the power for low beams and for the high beams .

Disco, I'll try and work up a step by step. Dave

I received my MS harness from Hussein (Softopz) and couldn't be more impressed. I haven't had the chance to do a thorough inspection because of family issues but the product and communication so far has been second to none. He sent me pictures of my harness identifying all of the connections along with instructions for initial setup and flashing the data to my MS. I'll add more details when this roller coaster of life calms down. Dave PS I'm a grandfather!

I just used one each from super bright LEDs (total of 4) I’ll take some pictures this weekend and post them. Dave

I had to put load resistors on all four lights and am using OEM flasher relays. I tried load resistors on just the rear and it wouldn't work. Order 4 of them, put them in parallel with the bulbs like the instructions say and it should work. Just for kicks put the old bulbs back in and see if it works. If it does, you just need to add the load resistors. If it doesn't you have another (wiring) issue.

Emailed you

LED on the left. It looks more yellow in the picture than it actually is. It's a amber LED bulb and looks great.

I added load resistors and they work fine. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/

He's building one for me now. So far communication has been great. Looking forward to getting it installed... when I have the L28ET ready. Dave

Good thread, I'm going down this same path right now. Do you have an update? Pictures?

I also added a negative bus and a hot from battery fused bus.

Yes I have. I wanted to use LED H4s but they were internally restricted to low beam OR high beam. My 78 280z doesn't turn the low off when high beam is selected so I did a two relay mod that corrected this. worked out great. The LED H4 bulbs came from superbrightLEDs and the headlights are from Summit, Hella Ecodes. They need aimed but I'm really happy with them. This is the drawing I came up with this morning after spending yesterday trying to understand the manual. I can add some more info to the schematic if someone needs it. PS The SuperBrightLEDS fit in the unmodified headlight buckets, I'm not sure they will stay cool enough yet but they come with a lifetime warrenty so I'll let you know. I thought about cutting a hole in the back of the bucket, welding on a short section of 2" or 2 1/2" exhaust pipe and capping it (also welded) to add some additional cooling area like dmoralesbello did but smaller. Then undercoat it after installation. We'll see!