twoeightythreez

Plus...if you inject fuel and ignite it, and just use the unburned byproducts in the exhaust to supply oxygen (as some remains unless you've achieved 100% efficiency), you'll be able to shoot flames like a flamethrower. (you can make a quick puff of flame without a flame kit with pre-cat cars and cutting power to ign and reapplying it.) Not suggesting anything, but plumbing NOS back there might make a HUGE, HOT flame...(probably too hot though..lol)

Careful with the cutting-power-to-coil thing...you'll blow your muffler up! (you really should inject fuel AFT of the muffler....filling the entire exhaust with fuel isnt a good idea unless you like replacing it a lot.) :oP I used to scar the $#1T out of people in my 68 510, get up to 40, turn key off, downshift a gear, pump the CRAP out of the gas, and turn key on at about 15mph. It sounded like a shotgun blast, and the 4th time I did it, my muffler blew apart. It was funny until I had to go to the base and listen to the unmuffled 4cyl. (Z24 swap)

here's the #'s for 500 and 900rpm (it's richer at 500 cuz that give the motor it's stump pulling torque, I can pull from 10mph in fifth without any trouble) kpa------500rpm--|--900rpm 180-------95--------95 165--------94---------92 149--------93--------92 125--------93---------91 101---------91--------85 75---------82---------77 50----------60---------60 29----------51----------51 anything above that kpa is super rich, I haven't turned boost up yet.

I can't get the pic any better than that for VE but I'll give you the 500 rpm graph numbers and you can extrapolate from there...sorry!

And we're living here in Allentown, where they're closing all the factories down...out in Bethlehem they're killing time, filling out forms, standing in line.. And our fathers fought the second world war... Spent thier weekends on the Jersey Shore... and the mothers with the USO, asked them to dance, dance with us slow... and we're waiting here in Allentown, for the pennsylvania we never found..... I forgot the rest...but that's the city. County seat of Lehigh County, nestled in the center of the Lehigh Valley, Population of city about 110,000 and metro of about 700,000 (PA is really, really weird with zoning...so each borough, township, city, and village is counted separate) total square mileage about 18... avg. pop density about 7,000 per sq. mi. Notable as the place where the liberty bell was hidden during the revolutionary war when those brits took Philly, and the hometown of such people as Andre Reid and Lee Iacocca.

That WAS with camera on chair....I have shaky hands and MUST invest in a tripod one of these days. I do have a wideband, an LC-1 and gauge from speedhut. the gauge isn't the most accuate in the world but it does show actual AFR's with an analog readout (can vary by as much as .5 one way or the other compared to MS) I do have to recal it soon, you're supposed to every 3000 miles and I have put about 4000 on it (cross-country trip) since I installed it.

Woah I think your trash can just blew by my window! It's about 22 degrees, dropping like a rock, and 40-50mph gusts here too. It's 18 here now...DOH!!

sorry about the blur...My hands are super unsteady and I have to ZOOM. As you can see I haven't tuned for higher than 7 psi yet...it goes pig rich to protect my motor. As for the pintles you don't need to convert them, just trim the lower part of the plastic spacer things below where the Oring seats, and they drop right in. I just drilled my manifold so I didn't have to mod the injectors. The Nissan inner and outer O-rings fit perfectly on these (actually the inners are a mite tight but they seal fine...make sure to lube them well so u don't rip them on install!) I think I can lean it out a mite more and work on accel enrichment, I think I should be able to get at least 1 second of wheelspin in 2nd gear at 7psi once it's perfect (I have 4.11 gears and 225/50R16 tires that were cheap but surprisingly grippy....if you've seen my drivin on ice vids you'll agree!) These off brand tires (I think they're Kuhmo but I'm not sure) grip really great, a set of period BFG radial T/a's would be smoking into 3rd right now!

Actually was 0-80, I planned 0-60 but the cold air really let that car git! (I'm gonna do an improntu 1/4 mile run tomorrow, hopefully the cops don't catch on) That 1/2 mile long road has an interesting landmark..the "Mobil" sign next to the office (I don't know if the sign is still there) is EXACTLY a quarter mile from the end of the road (at least what used to be the end of the road, there's a shipping terminal there now that goes out to American parkway east that used to be railroad tracks from the defunct allentown trolley system which was shut down in the 40's or 50's) Here's the links to the MS maps

Shoot, gimme a few mins and I'll fire up the ol' dell (MS only CPU now, slow-azz Pentium 2 with 90mb ram) since I keep it inside (it's 20deg right now, dropping , and it's so windy trash cans are blowing up the street) 437cc green top ford (actually they are BLUE but they've faded to green over the years )

I also like using the Nissan one with the P90 head because you can then measure temps from the back of the head, where the coolant (in theory) is the hottest. IMHO I would not want to try to re-tap the HEAD for a GM sensor if I didn't have to. (I've read about people being unlucky and cracking thermostat housings when re-tapping to 3/8NPT definitely would not want to be unlucky with the entire cyl. head)

"You can use the Datsun CLT sensor of you use the easytherm program " Z-ya, with MS-II you don't need to use easytherm...you just click under "tools" and then "calibrate sensors" and just put the values for -40F, 80F and 160F and burn to ECU and you're done! Ya...what he said....He posted as I was writing this!

Here's the stock values if you don't want to read the entire post: It is my understanding that the Nissan CLT sensor is very close to the GM one anyway Stock 280z coolant temp sensor (not the gauge sensor) values -40F 30-33000 ohms 80F 2000-2500ohms 160F 360 ohms

If you search you will find...but I cut and pasted my link for you (when I installed MS-II on my 280z which I have since turboed but still using Nissan CHT sensor. (same values as CLT sensor in N/A motors prior to 1981) This is the one with the bosch type plug, not the one-wire gauge sender. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113860

Like your car's color! IMO Blue looks SOOOO good on an S30. I/C is nice, too, but I still like mine (since it was $75 to my door and decent...what's not to like)

I was stationed in SoCal for awhile, but have since moved back to Pa. The only earthquakes (for the most part, I mean the Appalacians, Poconos, Allegheneys and Catskills were made somehow) we get here are when the ground sinks from under us. (Limestone bedrock + high water table + old coal mines= very unstable ground!) Sinkholes are as common here as earthquakes are there. Earthquakes from sinkholes feel almost identical, they just don't radiate as far from the epicenter. That said....I would vastly prefer an earthquake to Nature's other...SUGGESTIONS.... You can build to survive an earthquake fairly easily....even a big one won't affect as much area as a big hurricane or tornado. It's almost impossible to build to survive an F5 or a Cat 5 hurricane with it's winds, debris, AND flooding. This does not even take into account that severe hurricanes and tornadoes occur much, much more frequently than severe earthquakes.

Maybe it's 180 out? Sometimes when you're 180 out you can actually get it to run, badly, and when it quits you have fire in the carb (unless you're lucky and you just get a gas-bath)

90 psi cranking compression is quite low. Are you holding the throttle wide open when you're doing the comp test? I hope you're not because if you're doing it right your motor is definitely in need of some wrenching. See if it goes up after adding a tablespoon of oil to the cylinders. If compression goes up you gotta re-ring it. (obviously if your compresson is even your head gasket is OK...unless some space-time warpage paradox caused ALL SIX cylinders to blow....lol) Ignition timing that is off would not give you low compression, but a cam that 's off a tooth will, possibly the chain is that loose? It's easy to check by removing the cam cover with engine at TDC. There's a groove on the cam thrust plate that should index with a notch on the cam gear. (not to mention if it jumped you will FEEL the looseness in the chain) I would bet the P.O. tried re-clocking the dizzy to try to compensate for out-of-phase cam timing meself. Check your valve adjustments for sure though...engine should have at least 130psi with no cylinder less than 75% of the highest cylinder. (if your max is 130 your lowest can't be less than 103..this being for a daily beater motor. A performance car should have no cylinder being less then 90% of the highest, as in if 130 is your highest you better not see lower than 117psi.) 90, though....is too low no matter how even it is from cyl-cyl.) just my .02 Shoot...my TURBO motor pushed 160psi cranking comp. If it only didn't burn oil.....carbon helps compression though Who knows? possibly the P.O. rebuilt the engine and didn't put the chain on right! That would kinda be like winning the lottery......

Just a little 0-80mph vid of my Z in Allentown. I have ford 437cc injectors, MSII almost dialed in, and a big front mount. Did all the work myself, and this is after drivng across country in it (30mpg highway!!!) I'm running 7psi right now. I want to keep boost low until tuning is absolutely perfect. The air temp at this time was 35 degrees F. Tires were not warmed, so no traction in first. I'm still impressed with it considering the stock-type boost. I just uploaded so it might be a few hours till it can be seen.

Check for restrictions in your fuel lines and check fuel pressure..it it's low it'll idle fine but under load will only make about 50hp (i had a Nissan 720 that had an intermittent problem with the fuel pump module, it would keep running but could only do 25mph up hills...no matter what rpm or gear...) Make sure the float level in the carb is set right. If fuel pressure is low it also won't rev worth a crap...you'll be able to ease the rpm up but as soon as you apply load (drop the clutch) the engine will stumble and have no power. If all checks out there....are you sure your clutch isn't slipping and your parking brake isn't siezed?

Dragonfly, Remember blowing my Z's doors off at Qualcomm? (2005 before I deployed, I had my L28E and you had your stroker, I ran a 9.8 and you ran 8.lows?) That was fun.

BTW I had no such problem with my fidanza.

I'll also never use an easy out ever again...I broke a rocker arm shaft bolt on a Buick 430 I had years ago (never trust an inch pound click type torque wrench!)...decided to try to "ease" it out, took 4 places to even find them, and my dumb butt didn't listen to all the guys saying "don't use 'em" but I didn't want to pull the cyl head, so I got an easy out and promptly broke it off inside the rocker arm boss. Talk about pissed off. I finally did get the damn thing out of there but the threads of the rocker arm boss (and guess what...it was the forward one that also supplies oil to the rocker shafts..double DOH!) were hosed, I couldn't drill and tap bigger cause that would block off the oiling hole, so I had to improvise. I had to drill into the water jacket, tap it, and then put a longer bolt in with sealer and hope. It actually worked! I drove that 4dr for another few years, then swapped the motor into a 69 sportwagon, then joined the navy, then sold the sportwagon to a guy in canada. AFAIK it's still running. But the point is I'll never, EVER use an easy out again. For the time I spent trying to get the easy out..ummm...OUT I could have taken the cyl. head off, taken it to a shop and had them get the broken bolt out for me.

The TH350 is popular because it's cheap and can be built pretty strong for fairly low bucks and it's a bolt-on to the Gen1 SBC. ---not to mention...Lightweight...at least for an automatic--- also.....it is still fairly common in boneyards...GM used them in production cars right up to the late 80's maybe even into the 90's on some stuff 200-4r is a good choice, used both bolt patterns (chevy and BOP), had a .75:1 overdrive, can be easily modded to lock up without a computer (all you need is a pressure switch in the 3-4high pressure port, wire that to 12v and the other end to the lockup solenoid), and can be built to handle a chev V-8 (they can handle the torque of a built, boosted turbo buick...so I'm sure they won't have a problem with even a fairly wild 350..as long as it's beefed up)

It's actually a comfy car once you get used to using a windshield washer bottle (cali washer solvent is water with food coloring, I found out upon hitting PA) on the center console for a pillow and a good crink in the lower back later. I did spend the night in it, got out about 4 times during to pee (man that hurts to get a stiff breeze on ur willy when wind chill is 20 below!) Surprisingly, Z's are pretty good in the snow! At least as good as a vette (lol) meaning: don't stop on a hill. ever. The trip did prove that Megasquirt can work very well in a daily driven car. I still have to tune the map at better than 1/2 throttle and on boost, but the power is amazing. (even with the tune so rich that if I floor it in third and hit 4th at about 1/3 pedal I still accelerate...hard) The cold air helps tremedously. In the wet when I took the car to get washed (it actually got above freezing this week) I was all over the road in 2nd and 3rd, while running on 5cyl. (#5 plug was fouled after idling for 14 hours...that possibly reduced torque enough to allow me to traverse 40 miles of rock-hard snow covered, rough roads that day.) I cleaned out that plug...and WOW...I wish I had a camera, but I'll make a vid as soon as this white stuff goes away. (might not be till March but who knows?)